purlJam

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# FERNWAY SCARF
### A Garter Stitch Scarf with Eyelet Lace & I-Cord Edges

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## DESCRIPTION

The Fernway Scarf is an elegant yet beginner-friendly scarf featuring a gracefully tapered pointed tip at each end, widening to a generous 12" (30 cm) center. The body is worked in cozy garter stitch with a simple repeating eyelet row that creates a delicate lace detail without complex techniques. Neat I-cord-style edge stitches frame the long sides for a polished, professional finish. The scarf is worked flat from tip to tip in one piece — no seaming required.

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## MATERIALS

| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| **Yarn** | 8-ply / DK-weight (CYCA #3) |
| **Yardage** | Approximately 430–480 yards (395–440 m) |
| **Sample Yarn** | Any smooth 8-ply / DK in your preferred fiber |
| **Needle Size** | US 7 / 4.5 mm straight or circular needles |
| **Notions** | Tapestry needle, scissors, 2 locking stitch markers, tape measure |

> **Yarn Note:** A smooth plied yarn (wool, wool-blend, or cotton-blend) will show the eyelet lace detail most clearly. Fluffy or textured yarns will obscure the eyelets.

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## GAUGE

**19 stitches × 36 rows = 4" × 4" (10 cm × 10 cm) in garter stitch on US 7 / 4.5 mm needles, unblocked.**

> **Important:** Please swatch! Gauge determines your finished width. If your gauge is different, your scarf width will differ from the stated 12" (30 cm). Adjust needle size as needed to match gauge.

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | Imperial | Metric |
|---|---|---|
| **Width at center** | 12" | 30 cm |
| **Total length** | Approximately 60" | Approximately 152 cm |
| **Length of each tapered tip** | Approximately 11" | Approximately 28 cm |
| **Length of center section** | Approximately 38" | Approximately 97 cm |

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **k** | knit |
| **kfb** | knit into the front and back of the same stitch (1 stitch increased) |
| **k2tog** | knit 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased) |
| **yo** | yarn over |
| **sl1** | slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front |
| **RS** | right side |
| **WS** | wrong side |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **rep** | repeat |
| **pm** | place marker |
| **sm** | slip marker |
| **CO** | cast on |
| **BO** | bind off |

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## PATTERN NOTES

**1. I-Cord Edge:**
The first 3 and last 3 stitches of every row form the I-cord-style edge. On every row, slip the first 3 stitches purlwise with the yarn in front (wyif), then bring the yarn to the back before working the next stitch. Knit the last 3 stitches of every row normally. This creates a neat, rounded cord edge along both long sides of the scarf.

**2. Increases During Taper:**
All increases are placed just inside the I-cord edge stitches. On increase rows: sl1, sl1, sl1 (edge), kfb, knit to last 4 sts, kfb, k3 (edge). This adds 2 stitches per increase row.

**3. Eyelet Pattern:**
The eyelet pattern is only worked once the scarf has reached its full width of 57 stitches. During the taper sections (tip shaping), work all rows in plain garter stitch.

**4. Garter Stitch:**
When working flat, knit every row. The slipped I-cord edge stitches are the only exception.

**5. Reading Increase Rows:**
Increases are worked every 4th row. Rows 1–4 form the increase sequence. This creates a smooth, gradual taper.

**6. Stitch Count Reference:**
- Cast-on (tip): 7 stitches
- Full center width: 57 stitches
- I-cord edge stitches: 3 each side (6 total)
- Center body stitches at full width: 51 stitches

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### SECTION 1: FIRST POINTED TIP

**Cast On:**
Using the long-tail cast-on method, CO 7 sts.

> **Tip for Beginners:** The long-tail cast-on creates a firm, even edge that works beautifully as the tip of the scarf. Leave a 6" (15 cm) tail to weave in later.

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**Set-Up Row (RS):** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, k1, kfb, k2. **[8 sts]**

> **Note:** This set-up row establishes the I-cord edge and works the first increase to begin the taper. Place a locking stitch marker on the RS of your work so you always know which side is facing.

---

**Taper Increase Sequence:**

Work the following 4-row repeat. You will work this sequence **24 more times** (after the set-up row), for a total of **25 increase events** bringing you from 8 sts to 57 sts.

*(After the set-up row you have 8 sts. Each 4-row repeat adds 2 sts.)*

**Row 1 — Increase Row (RS):** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, kfb, knit to last 4 sts, kfb, k3. **[+2 sts]**

**Row 2 (WS):** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, knit to end.

**Row 3 (RS):** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, knit to end.

**Row 4 (WS):** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, knit to end.

Repeat Rows 1–4 a total of **24 times** after the set-up row.

> **Stitch Count Check after each increase event:**
>
> | After Increase # | Stitch Count |
> |---|---|
> | Set-up row | 8 sts |
> | 1 | 10 sts |
> | 2 | 12 sts |
> | 3 | 14 sts |
> | 4 | 16 sts |
> | 5 | 18 sts |
> | 6 | 20 sts |
> | 7 | 22 sts |
> | 8 | 24 sts |
> | 9 | 26 sts |
> | 10 | 28 sts |
> | 11 | 30 sts |
> | 12 | 32 sts |
> | 13 | 34 sts |
> | 14 | 36 sts |
> | 15 | 38 sts |
> | 16 | 40 sts |
> | 17 | 42 sts |
> | 18 | 44 sts |
> | 19 | 46 sts |
> | 20 | 48 sts |
> | 21 | 50 sts |
> | 22 | 52 sts |
> | 23 | 54 sts |
> | 24 | 56 sts |
> | 25 (final) | 57 sts — work one extra plain row to make the taper end on WS |

> **After the 24th repeat of Rows 1–4, work one final Increase Row (Row 1) only:** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, kfb, knit to last 4 sts, kfb, k3. **[57 sts]**
>
> Then work 1 plain row (Row 2) before beginning the center section, so the center section begins on a RS row.

**Total rows in first tip section:** 1 set-up row + (24 × 4 rows) + 1 increase row + 1 plain row = **99 rows** ≈ **11" (28 cm)**

**Stitch count at end of Section 1: 57 sts** ✓

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### SECTION 2: CENTER BODY WITH EYELET LACE

You will now work the full-width center section. This section is approximately **38" (97 cm)** long, worked over **approximately 137 rows** (adjustable to your preferred length — see note below).

> **Length Note:** Knit the center section to your desired scarf length. For a standard 60" (152 cm) scarf, work approximately 137 rows in this section. For a longer scarf, simply add more rows here. The pattern is symmetrical, so whatever length you add here is fine.

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**Eyelet Row Pattern:**

The eyelet lace pattern is worked on RS rows only, every 10th row throughout the center section. All other rows are worked in plain garter stitch (with I-cord edges maintained on every row).

**Every Row (plain garter row):** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, knit to end.

**Eyelet Row (RS):** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k3; rep from * 9 times more, yo, k2tog, k2. **[57 sts — stitch count maintained]**

> **Eyelet Row Math Check:** 3 (edge) + k1 + [yo, k2tog, k3] × 10 + yo, k2tog + k2 + 3 (edge) = 3 + 1 + 50 + 2 + 1 + 3 = wait — let me write this clearly:
>
> - 3 slipped edge sts
> - k1
> - *yo, k2tog, k3* × 10 = 50 sts consumed, 50 sts produced (yo adds 1, k2tog removes 1 — net zero)
> - yo, k2tog = 2 sts consumed, 2 sts produced (net zero)
> - k2
> - 3 knit edge sts
> - Total: 3 + 1 + 50 + 2 + 2 + 3 = **61?** — Let me re-verify:
>
> *(Body sts = 51. 3 edge + 51 body + 3 edge = 57.)*
>
> **Corrected Eyelet Row for 51 body sts:**
>
> 51 body sts ÷ 5-st repeat = 10 full repeats = 50 sts + 1 remaining st.
>
> **Eyelet Row (RS):** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif *(3 edge sts)*, k1, *[yo, k2tog, k3]* rep 10 times *(50 sts)*, k1 *(1 st)* — wait, that gives 3 + 1 + 50 = 54 + 3 edge = 57. But the last k1 is separate.

> **✅ VERIFIED Eyelet Row for 57 sts:**
>
> - 3 slipped edge sts + 51 body sts + 3 knit edge sts = 57 total
> - 51 body sts: k1, [yo, k2tog, k3] × 10 = 1 + 50 = 51 sts ✓ (yos and k2togs are net-zero)
>
> **Eyelet Row (RS):** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k3; rep from * 10 times, k3. **[57 sts]** ✓
>
> Breakdown: 3 slipped + k1 + (yo, k2tog, k3) ×10 + k3 = 3 + 1 + (2+3)×10 + 3 = 3 + 1 + 50 + 3 = 57 ✓

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**Center Section Row-by-Row:**

Work as follows, repeating the 10-row sequence for the full center length:

**Rows 1–9:** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, knit to end. *(Plain garter with I-cord edge)*

**Row 10 — Eyelet Row (RS):** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, k1, *yo, k2tog, k3; rep from * 10 times, k3.

Rep Rows 1–10 until center section measures approximately **38" (97 cm)** from the start of Section 2, ending after a Row 9 (so the center ends on a plain row before you begin the taper). This is approximately **13–14 full repeats** of the 10-row eyelet sequence.

> **Eyelet Placement:** The yo, k2tog pairing creates a small hole (eyelet) in the fabric. The garter stitch ridges between eyelet rows frame each row of eyelets cleanly. You will see a horizontal line of eyelets appearing every 10 rows.

**Stitch count throughout Section 2: 57 sts** ✓

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### SECTION 3: SECOND POINTED TIP (Mirror of Section 1)

You will now work the decrease taper, mirroring Section 1. The scarf will narrow from 57 sts back down to 7 sts.

**No eyelets are worked during this section — plain garter stitch only.**

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**Taper Decrease Sequence:**

**Row 1 — Decrease Row (RS):** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, k2tog, knit to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3. **[−2 sts]**

**Row 2 (WS):** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, knit to end.

**Row 3 (RS):** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, knit to end.

**Row 4 (WS):** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, knit to end.

Repeat Rows 1–4 until **24 decrease events** have been completed.

> **Stitch Count After Each Decrease Event:**
>
> | After Decrease # | Stitch Count |
> |---|---|
> | Start | 57 sts |
> | 1 | 55 sts |
> | 2 | 53 sts |
> | 3 | 51 sts |
> | 4 | 49 sts |
> | 5 | 47 sts |
> | 6 | 45 sts |
> | 7 | 43 sts |
> | 8 | 41 sts |
> | 9 | 39 sts |
> | 10 | 37 sts |
> | 11 | 35 sts |
> | 12 | 33 sts |
> | 13 | 31 sts |
> | 14 | 29 sts |
> | 15 | 27 sts |
> | 16 | 25 sts |
> | 17 | 23 sts |
> | 18 | 21 sts |
> | 19 | 19 sts |
> | 20 | 17 sts |
> | 21 | 15 sts |
> | 22 | 13 sts |
> | 23 | 11 sts |
> | 24 | 9 sts |

After 24 decrease events you have **9 sts.**

**Final Decrease Row (RS):** Sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, sl1 wyif, k2tog, k2tog, k2. **[7 sts]**

> **Note:** This final row works two decreases in the body (not framed by plain rows) to bring the stitch count to 7, matching the cast-on exactly.

**Stitch count at end of Section 3: 7 sts** ✓

**Total rows in second tip: approximately 99 rows** ≈ **11" (28 cm)** ✓

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### BIND OFF

Do not break yarn yet.

**I-Cord Bind-Off (Tip):**

To create a clean, rounded finish at the tip that mirrors the cast-on end, work a simple I-cord bind-off over the remaining 7 sts:

*Step 1:* With 7 sts on needle, do not turn. Slide sts to the right end of the needle.
*Step 2:* CO 3 sts using the knitted cast-on method. **[10 sts on needle]**
*Step 3:* *K2, k2tog tbl (joining 1 I-cord st with 1 scarf st), slide all 3 sts back to left needle tip without turning.* Pull yarn firmly across the back.
*Step 4:* Rep from * until all scarf sts have been bound off and 3 I-cord sts remain.
*Step 5:* BO the remaining 3 I-cord sts. Cut yarn and pull through final loop.

> **Simpler Alternative Bind-Off:** If the I-cord bind-off feels too complex, simply work a standard bind-off over the remaining 7 sts by knitting 2 sts, then passing the first over the second. Continue across. Cut yarn and pull tail through last loop.

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## FINISHING

**1. I-Cord Tip at Cast-On End:**
If you used a standard long-tail cast-on at the start, the tip will be neat as-is. Alternatively, pick up the 7 cast-on sts with your needle and work the same I-cord bind-off as above for a perfectly matching tip at both ends.

**2. Weaving in Ends:**
Thread your tapestry needle with each yarn tail and weave in along the wrong side of the garter ridges for at least 1" (2.5 cm) in two different directions to secure. The I-cord edges hide ends neatly.

**3. Blocking:**
Wet block the scarf for best results:
- Soak in cool water for 15–20 minutes.
- Gently squeeze out water (do not wring).
- Roll in a dry towel to remove excess moisture.
- Lay flat on a blocking mat and pin to measurements.
- Allow to dry completely before unpinning.

Blocking will open up the eyelets beautifully and even out the garter ridges.

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## SCHEMATIC

```
    /\                                    /\
   /  \                                  /  \
  / ↑  \                                / ↑  \
 / 11"  \                              / 11"  \
/  tip   \←————————————————————————→/  tip   \
          ←——— 38" center body ————→
          ←——— 12" (30 cm) wide ————→

Total length: ~60" (152 cm)
```

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## QUICK REFERENCE SUMMARY

| Section | Rows | Length | Action |
|---|---|---|---|
| First Tip | ~99 rows | ~11" (28 cm) | Increase every 4 rows: 7→57 sts |
| Center Body | ~137 rows | ~38" (97 cm) | Hold 57 sts; eyelet row every 10 rows |
| Second Tip | ~99 rows | ~11" (28 cm) | Decrease every 4 rows: 57→7 sts |
| **Total** | **~335 rows** | **~60" (152 cm)** | |

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## TROUBLESHOOTING & TIPS FOR BEGINNERS

**Q: My I-cord edge looks loose and loopy.**
A: Tug the working yarn a little more firmly after slipping the 3 edge stitches. The tension should be snug but not tight. It will even out after blocking.

**Q: I lost track of which row I'm on in the increase section.**
A: Use a row counter or make a tally mark on paper after every increase row. The stitch count table is your friend — count your stitches every 4 rows to confirm you're on track.

**Q: My eyelet rows aren't lining up in a straight column.**
A: Make sure you always work the Eyelet Row on a RS (right-side) row. Place a marker after st 4 and every 5 sts across to keep the yo, k2tog pairs aligned.

**Q: Can I make the scarf wider or narrower?**
A: Yes! Each additional stitch adds approximately 0.21" (0.5 cm) to the width. Add or remove stitches in multiples of 5 to keep the eyelet repeat working evenly. Adjust your cast-on by 1 st at a time and your increase count accordingly.

**Q: Can I substitute a different yarn?**
A: Yes, as long as you achieve the stated gauge of 19 sts × 36 rows = 4" in garter stitch. Swatch in your chosen yarn and adjust needle size if needed.

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*Pattern designed for a single size. All measurements are approximate and may vary slightly based on individual gauge and blocking.*

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