Flat-Knit SKZOO Companions

Unofficial fan-made pattern for personal use. Not affiliated with, licensed by, or endorsed by JYP Entertainment or Stray Kids. These are original flat-knit silhouettes of the eight animal companions — wolf, rabbit, pig-rabbit, ferret, quokka, chick, puppy, and fox — using publicly known color cues. The pattern does not reproduce official artwork, logos, or plush construction.

Knit one companion or the full set of eight. Every piece is knitted flat on two straight needles and seamed. Nothing is worked in the round.

Finished measurements

At the gauge below, after seaming and stuffing:

• Standing height: 12 in / 30 cm (crown to foot; ears are extra)
• Seated height: 8.5 in / 21.5 cm
• Head: about 3.5 in / 9 cm wide and 4 in / 10 cm tall
• Body knitted length: 4.75 in / 12 cm
• Arm knitted length: 3.25 in / 8 cm
• Leg knitted length: about 4.5 in / 11.5 cm along the back

Proportions are stylized: the head is about 1/3 of standing height. Changing yarn weight changes the size. The same pattern in DK comes out roughly 15–20% smaller.

Yarn

Worsted weight (Category 4), smooth and firm. A cotton or cotton-blend holds the shape best; a smooth acrylic is fine. Avoid fuzzy or bouclé yarn — stitch definition disappears and the face will not read.

Per doll

• Main color (MC): 165 yards / 150 m (about 3 oz / 85 g). One 100 g skein of 180–220 yards covers one doll.
• Contrast (CC): 35 yards / 32 m
• Optional scarf: 30 yards / 27 m in a third color, or use CC
• Black, white, and a little pink embroidery floss, or leftover yarn, for the face

Needles and notions

• US 6 / 4 mm straight needles (one to two sizes smaller than a typical worsted ball band, so stuffing does not show through)
• Yarn needle
• Long doll needle, 3–5 in
• Strong sewing thread (button thread, or embroidery floss used doubled) for jointing
• Polyester fiberfill, about 3 oz / 85 g per doll
• Optional: 1 oz / 30 g poly pellets sealed in a small fabric or nylon pouch, to weight the seat
• Optional, adult display only: one pair of 12 mm safety eyes
• Removable stitch marker or waste yarn
• Stitch holder, optional

Gauge

22 sts and 30 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in Stockinette stitch, unblocked.

That is 5.5 sts and 7.5 rows per inch. Knit a swatch at least 5 in wide and measure it unblocked. Toy fabric should feel firm. If you can see daylight through the swatch, go down a needle size. A different gauge changes the finished height.

Notes

Skill level: Intermediate. You need cast-on, knit, purl, kfb, k2tog, ssk, short rows, mattress stitch, ladder stitch, and simple embroidery. A two-panel beginner animal this is not — flat shaping, the seam, and the stuffing all decide the finished shape.

Construction: Two straight needles throughout. Each piece is a flat panel with its own cast-on. A 1-stitch seam allowance is taken up in mattress stitch.

Edge shaping: On limbs and body, increases and decreases are worked one stitch in from the edge so the seam stays clean: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. The head and snout use distributed increases. Edge-only increases would make a diamond; distributed increases make a round head.

Stuffing: Stuff firmly, in small pieces, a bit at a time. Stop when the piece feels like a ripe orange. Over-stuffing shows through knit fabric much faster than through crochet. If stitches gape, take filling out.

Children under 3: Embroidered features only. No safety eyes, no buttons, no poly pellets, no glue. Sew limbs on firmly (fixed, not movable). Sew the scarf on, or leave it off. Check seams before every use.

Color notes: Carry no floats. When a piece changes color, cut the old color and join the new one at the start of the stated row, leaving a 6 in tail to weave in.

Abbreviations (US)

• BO — bind off
• CC — contrast color
• CO — cast on
• k — knit
• kfb — knit into the front and back of the same stitch (1 st increased)
• k2tog — knit 2 stitches together (1 st decreased)
• MC — main color
• p — purl
• RS — right side
• ssk — slip, slip, knit: slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, return them to the left needle, knit them together through the back loops (1 st decreased)
• St st — Stockinette stitch: knit RS rows, purl WS rows
• WS — wrong side
• w&t — wrap and turn (see Short rows)

Special techniques

Long-tail cast-on is used for every piece.

Standard bind-off: Knit 2, pass the first stitch over the second; repeat. Do not bind off tightly at the neck.

Wrap and turn (w&t): Slip the next stitch purlwise. Bring the yarn to the other side of the work. Slip the stitch back to the left needle. Turn the work. On the later row that crosses that stitch, lift the wrap onto the left needle and work it together with the stitch it wraps, so the short row does not leave a hole.

Mattress stitch: With RS together facing you (seam on the outside as you stitch), catch the bar between the edge stitch and the next stitch on each side in turn. That takes a 1-stitch seam allowance and leaves a flat, invisible seam.

Ladder stitch: Used only to close a final opening or to sew one finished piece onto another. Take tiny stitches from one side to the other, pull the thread gently, and the join closes.

How to use this pattern

1. Choose a companion from the character guide.
2. Knit the shared pieces in MC: Head, Body, Legs (make 2), and Arms (make 2) — except BbokAri, who has wings instead of arms.
3. Knit only the feature pieces listed for that companion.
4. Follow Making Up in the order given. The order matters.

Shared pieces

Head (make 1 in MC)

A flat sphere. Side seam becomes center back. Cast-on gather is the crown; final gather is the chin.

CO 8 sts.

Row 1 (RS): Kfb in each st. 16 sts (8 increases; 8 + 8 = 16 ✓). Row 2 and every WS row through Row 12: Purl. Row 3: (K1, kfb) 8 times. 24 sts (16 + 8 = 24 ✓). Row 5: (K2, kfb) 8 times. 32 sts (24 + 8 = 32 ✓). Row 7: (K3, kfb) 8 times. 40 sts (32 + 8 = 40 ✓). Row 9: (K4, kfb) 8 times. 48 sts (40 + 8 = 48 ✓). Row 11: (K5, kfb) 8 times. 56 sts (48 + 8 = 56 ✓). Row 13: (K6, kfb) 8 times. 64 sts (56 + 8 = 64 ✓).

Rows 14–20: Work 7 rows even in St st, beginning with a WS purl. 64 sts.

Mark the front now, before you seam. On Row 17 (a RS knit row), place a removable marker between stitch 32 and stitch 33. That point is center front, opposite the seam.

Row 21 (RS): (K6, k2tog) 8 times. 56 sts (8 decreases; 64 − 8 = 56 ✓). Row 22 and every WS row through Row 32: Purl. Row 23: (K5, k2tog) 8 times. 48 sts. Row 25: (K4, k2tog) 8 times. 40 sts. Row 27: (K3, k2tog) 8 times. 32 sts. Row 29: (K2, k2tog) 8 times. 24 sts. Row 31: (K1, k2tog) 8 times. 16 sts. Row 33: (K2tog) 8 times. 8 sts (16 − 8 = 8 ✓). Row 34 (WS): Purl.

Cut yarn, leaving a 24 in tail. Thread the tail through the remaining 8 sts and pull tight. This gathered end is the chin. Do not gather the cast-on yet; that happens in Making Up so you can fit safety eyes first if you are using them.

Knitted length is about 4.5 in / 11.5 cm pole to pole (34 rows). After seaming and stuffing it finishes about 4 in tall and 3.5 in wide.

Body (make 1 in MC)

Worked bottom-up. Cast-on edge is the seat. Bind-off edge is the neck. Side seam is center back.

CO 52 sts.

Rows 1–20: Work in St st, beginning with a RS knit row. 52 sts. (20 rows = about 2.75 in of lower body.)

Shape shoulders, decreasing one stitch in from each edge:

Row 21 (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 50 sts. Row 22 and every WS row through Row 32: Purl. Row 23: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 48 sts. Row 25: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 46 sts. Row 27: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 44 sts. Row 29: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 42 sts. Row 31: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 40 sts (6 decrease rows × 2 = 12 sts decreased; 52 − 12 = 40 ✓).

Row 33 (RS): (K3, k2tog) 8 times. 32 sts (40 ÷ 5 = 8 repeats; 40 − 8 = 32 ✓). Row 34: Purl. Row 35: (K2, k2tog) 8 times. 24 sts (32 ÷ 4 = 8 repeats; 32 − 8 = 24 ✓). Row 36: Purl.

BO all 24 sts. Neck opening is about 4.25 in / 11 cm around before seaming, about 1.25 in / 3 cm across once it is sewn into a circle.

Arms (make 2 in MC)

Not used for BbokAri. Cast-on edge is the shoulder (leave open). Gathered end is the paw.

CO 18 sts.

Rows 1–16: Work in St st, beginning with a RS knit row. 18 sts.

Row 17 (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 16 sts. Row 18 and every WS row: Purl. Row 19: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 14 sts. Row 21: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 12 sts. Row 23: (K2tog) 6 times. 6 sts (12 − 6 = 6 ✓). Row 24 (WS): Purl.

Cut yarn, leaving a 12 in tail. Thread through the remaining 6 sts and pull tight.

Legs (make 2 in MC)

Cast-on edge is the hip (leave open). Gathered end is the toe. The seam is the back of the leg. Short rows sit on the front and build a forward foot.

For BbokAri only: work Rows 1–30 in MC and Rows 31–38 in orange.

CO 22 sts.

Rows 1–24: Work in St st, beginning with a RS knit row. 22 sts.

Short-row foot

Row 25 (RS): K15, w&t. Row 26 (WS): P8, w&t. Row 27 (RS): K6, w&t. Row 28 (WS): P4, w&t. Row 29 (RS): Knit to end, working each wrap together with its stitch. 22 sts. Row 30 (WS): Purl to end, working each wrap together with its stitch. 22 sts.

The unworked stitches on Rows 25 and 26 are 7 on each side, so the foot is centered on the front. Stitch count has not changed (22 ✓).

Close the toe

Row 31 (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 20 sts. Row 32: Purl. Row 33: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 18 sts. Row 34: Purl. Row 35: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 16 sts. Row 36: Purl. Row 37: (K2tog) 8 times. 8 sts (16 − 8 = 8 ✓). Row 38: Purl.

Cut yarn, leaving a 16 in tail. Thread through the remaining 8 sts and pull tight.

When you seam, start at the toe and sew toward the cast-on. The short-row bulge faces forward; the seam faces back.

Feature pieces

Knit only the pieces named for your companion. Placement measurements are in Making Up.

Pointed ear — outer (Wolf Chan, FoxI.Ny — make 2 in MC)

CO 14 sts.

Rows 1–8: Work in St st, beginning with a RS knit row.

Row 9 (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 12 sts. Row 10 and every WS row: Purl. Row 11: Decrease as Row 9. 10 sts. Row 13: Decrease as Row 9. 8 sts. Row 15: Decrease as Row 9. 6 sts. Row 17: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts. Row 19: Ssk, k2tog. 2 sts. Row 20: Purl. Row 21: K2tog. 1 st.

Fasten off. About 2.75 in / 7 cm tall, 2.5 in / 6.5 cm wide at the base.

Pointed ear — inner (Wolf Chan, FoxI.Ny — make 2 in CC)

CO 10 sts.

Rows 1–6: Work in St st, beginning with a RS knit row.

Row 7 (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 8 sts. Row 8 and every WS row: Purl. Row 9: Decrease as Row 7. 6 sts. Row 11: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts. Row 13: Ssk, k2tog. 2 sts. Row 14: P2tog. 1 st.

Fasten off. Sew to the front of the outer ear, centered, before attaching the ear to the head.

Long rabbit ear — outer (Leebit — make 2 in MC)

CO 10 sts.

Rows 1–36: Work in St st, beginning with a RS knit row. 10 sts. (36 rows = about 4.75 in.)

Row 37 (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 8 sts. Row 38 and every WS row: Purl. Row 39: Decrease as Row 37. 6 sts. Row 41: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts. Row 43: Ssk, k2tog. 2 sts. Row 44: P2tog. 1 st.

Fasten off. About 5.75 in / 14.5 cm long.

Long rabbit ear — inner (Leebit — make 2 in pink)

CO 6 sts.

Rows 1–28: Work in St st, beginning with a RS knit row.

Row 29 (RS): K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts. Row 30: Purl. Row 31: Ssk, k2tog. 2 sts. Row 32: P2tog. 1 st.

Fasten off. Sew to the front of the outer ear, bases aligned, so the outer-ear tip extends past the inner ear. Do not stuff. These ears must stay light or they will not stand.

Floppy ear (PuppyM — make 2 in MC)

Single layer, unstuffed, so the ear hangs.

CO 14 sts.

Rows 1–14: Work in St st, beginning with a RS knit row.

Row 15 (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 12 sts. Row 16 and every WS row: Purl. Row 17: Decrease as Row 15. 10 sts. Row 19: Decrease as Row 15. 8 sts. Row 21: Decrease as Row 15. 6 sts. Row 23: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts. Row 24: Purl.

BO all 4 sts. The cast-on edge is the top (sewn to the head). The bound-off end hangs down. About 3.25 in / 8 cm long.

Rounded ear — outer (Dwaekki, Jiniret, Quokka — make 2 in MC)

CO 12 sts.

Rows 1–6: Work in St st, beginning with a RS knit row.

Row 7 (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 10 sts. Row 8 and every WS row: Purl. Row 9: Decrease as Row 7. 8 sts. Row 11: Decrease as Row 7. 6 sts. Row 13: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts. Row 15: Ssk, k2tog. 2 sts. Row 16: P2tog. 1 st.

Fasten off. About 2 in / 5 cm tall.

Rounded ear — inner (Dwaekki in deep pink; Jiniret and Quokka in CC — make 2)

CO 8 sts.

Rows 1–2: Work in St st, beginning with a RS knit row.

Row 3 (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 6 sts. Row 4: Purl. Row 5: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts. Row 6: Purl. Row 7: Ssk, k2tog. 2 sts. Row 8: P2tog. 1 st.

Fasten off. Sew to the front of the outer ear.

Oval muzzle (Wolf Chan, Jiniret, Quokka, PuppyM, FoxI.Ny — make 2 in CC)

Leebit does not use this piece; a white muzzle disappears on a white head. Dwaekki uses the pig snout. BbokAri uses the beak.

CO 6 sts.

Row 1 (RS): Kfb, knit to last st, kfb. 8 sts. Row 2 and every WS row: Purl. Row 3: Kfb, knit to last st, kfb. 10 sts. Row 5: Kfb, knit to last st, kfb. 12 sts. Row 7: Kfb, knit to last st, kfb. 14 sts (4 increase rows × 2 = 8 sts increased; 6 + 8 = 14 ✓).

Rows 8–12: Work 5 rows even in St st. 14 sts.

Row 13 (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 12 sts. Row 15: Decrease as Row 13. 10 sts. Row 17: Decrease as Row 13. 8 sts. Row 19: Decrease as Row 13. 6 sts. Row 20: Purl.

BO all 6 sts.

Seam the two pieces with mattress stitch, leaving a 1 in gap. Stuff lightly — a pinched walnut, not a golf ball — and ladder-stitch the gap. Finished muzzle is about 2.25 in / 5.5 cm wide.

Pig snout (Dwaekki — make 1 in deep pink)

The cast-on stays open; it is the edge that sews to the face. The gathered end is the front of the snout.

CO 8 sts.

Row 1 (RS): Kfb in each st. 16 sts (8 + 8 = 16 ✓). Row 2: Purl. Row 3: (K1, kfb) 8 times. 24 sts (16 + 8 = 24 ✓). Rows 4–8: Work 5 rows even in St st. 24 sts. Row 9 (RS): (K1, k2tog) 8 times. 16 sts (24 − 8 = 16 ✓). Row 10: Purl. Row 11: (K2tog) 8 times. 8 sts. Row 12: Purl.

Cut yarn, leaving a 12 in tail. Stuff lightly, then thread the tail through the 8 sts and pull tight. Embroider two short vertical nostrils in a darker pink or black, centered on the front, about 0.25 in apart.

Chest or belly patch (Wolf Chan and FoxI.Ny in white; Jiniret and Quokka in cream — make 1)

One layer, not stuffed. Sew flat.

CO 8 sts.

Row 1 (RS): Kfb, knit to last st, kfb. 10 sts. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: Kfb, knit to last st, kfb. 12 sts. Row 4: Purl. Row 5: Kfb, knit to last st, kfb. 14 sts. Rows 6–10: Work 5 rows even in St st. 14 sts. Row 11 (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 12 sts. Row 12 and every WS row: Purl. Row 13: Decrease as Row 11. 10 sts. Row 15: Decrease as Row 11. 8 sts. Row 16: Purl.

BO all 8 sts.

Bushy tail (Wolf Chan — make 1)

Worked from the tip. White tip, then gray.

CO 8 sts in white.

Row 1 (RS): Kfb in each st. 16 sts. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: (K1, kfb) 8 times. 24 sts (16 + 8 = 24 ✓). Row 4: Purl. Cut white. Join gray.

Rows 5–16: Work in St st. 24 sts. Row 17 (RS): (K1, k2tog) 8 times. 16 sts (24 − 8 = 16 ✓). Row 18: Purl. Row 19: (K2tog) 8 times. 8 sts. Row 20: Purl.

BO all 8 sts. This bound-off edge is sewn to the body. Seam the side edges, stuff lightly, and leave the bound-off edge open until you attach it.

Long bushy tail (FoxI.Ny — make 1)

Same start as the bushy tail, with a longer orange section.

CO 8 sts in white.

Row 1 (RS): Kfb in each st. 16 sts. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: (K1, kfb) 8 times. 24 sts. Row 4: Purl. Cut white. Join orange.

Rows 5–24: Work in St st. 24 sts. (20 rows of orange = about 2.75 in.) Row 25 (RS): (K1, k2tog) 8 times. 16 sts. Row 26: Purl. Row 27: (K2tog) 8 times. 8 sts. Row 28: Purl.

BO all 8 sts. Seam, stuff lightly, and attach by the bound-off edge, as for the wolf tail.

Slim tail (Jiniret — make 1 in MC)

CO 8 sts.

Rows 1–28: Work in St st, beginning with a RS knit row. 8 sts. Row 29 (RS): (K2tog) 4 times. 4 sts.

Cut yarn, thread through the 4 sts, and pull tight (the tip). Seam into a narrow tube, stuff very lightly, and leave the cast-on open to sew to the body. About 3.75 in / 9.5 cm long. Curve it gently upward when you sew it on.

Puff tail (Leebit in white or pale pink; Dwaekki in deep pink — make 1)

CO 12 sts.

Rows 1–6: Work in St st, beginning with a RS knit row. Row 7 (RS): (K2tog) 6 times. 6 sts.

Cut yarn, thread through the 6 sts, and pull tight. Seam the side, stuff into a small ball, and gather the cast-on closed. For Dwaekki, sew it on in a tight curl so it reads as a pig tail. For Leebit, sew it on as a round cotton tail.

Stub tail (Quokka and PuppyM — make 1 in MC)

CO 10 sts.

Rows 1–8: Work in St st, beginning with a RS knit row. (PuppyM: work 16 rows here instead of 8, so the tail can bend.) Next RS row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 8 sts. Next WS row: Purl. Next RS row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 6 sts. Next WS row: Purl. Next RS row: (K2tog) 3 times. 3 sts.

Thread through and pull tight. Seam, stuff lightly. Quokka’s tail is a short stub on the lower back. PuppyM’s longer tail can be sewn with a slight curve to one side.

Chick tuft (BbokAri — make 3 in MC)

Unstuffed.

CO 6 sts.

Rows 1–4: Work in St st, beginning with a RS knit row. Row 5 (RS): K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts. Row 6: Purl. Row 7: Ssk, k2tog. 2 sts. Row 8: P2tog. 1 st.

Fasten off. Sew the three sprigs in a cluster at the crown.

Beak (BbokAri — make 2 in orange)

CO 8 sts.

Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts (8 sts used; 6 remain ✓). Row 4: Purl. Row 5: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts. Row 6: Purl. Row 7: Ssk, k2tog. 2 sts. Row 8: P2tog. 1 st.

Fasten off. Seam the two triangles, add a pinch of stuffing, and sew to the face.

Wing (BbokAri — make 2 in MC, instead of arms)

Lightly stuffed, or left flat if you want a thinner wing. Cast-on edge is the shoulder.

CO 16 sts.

Rows 1–8: Work in St st, beginning with a RS knit row.

Row 9 (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 14 sts. Row 10 and every WS row: Purl. Row 11: Decrease as Row 9. 12 sts. Row 13: Decrease as Row 9. 10 sts. Row 15: Decrease as Row 9. 8 sts. Row 17: Decrease as Row 9. 6 sts. Row 19: Decrease as Row 9. 4 sts. Row 20: Purl.

BO all 4 sts. About 2.75 in / 7 cm long.

Accessory

Scarf (optional, make 1)

Removable. It is a tie, not a fitted garment, so ease is not added. Worked flat.

CO 10 sts.

Knit every row (garter stitch) until the scarf measures 18 in / 46 cm. BO all sts.

Finished width is about 2 in / 5 cm. Tie it at the side of the neck. For a child under 3, sew it down or omit it.

Character guide

Knit the shared Head, Body, and Legs for every companion. Then add only what is listed.

Wolf Chan — Heather gray MC, white CC. Arms ×2. Pointed ears ×2 with white inners. White oval muzzle. White chest patch. Bushy tail with white tip. Angled eyes, small triangular nose.

Leebit — White MC, pink CC. Arms ×2. Long rabbit ears ×2 with pink inners. No separate muzzle. Puff tail. Round eyes, pink nose embroidered straight on the head.

Dwaekki — Light pink MC, deep pink CC. Arms ×2. Rounded ears ×2 with deep pink inners. Pig snout, not the oval muzzle. Deep pink puff tail, sewn in a curl. Round eyes, nostrils on the snout.

Jiniret — Golden yellow MC, cream CC. Arms ×2. Rounded ears ×2 with cream inners, sewn flat (do not stuff the ear). Cream oval muzzle. Cream belly patch. Slim tail, curved up. Small round eyes, tiny nose.

Quokka — Warm brown MC, cream CC. Arms ×2. Rounded ears ×2 with cream inners, lightly stuffed. Cream oval muzzle, set a little low and wide. Cream belly patch. Stub tail. Round eyes and a broad upturned smile — that smile is the silhouette.

BbokAri — Bright yellow MC, orange CC. No arms. Wings ×2, jointed at the shoulders. Tuft ×3 at the crown. Orange beak. No tail. Legs end in orange feet (Rows 31–38). Round eyes. No embroidered nose; the beak replaces it.

PuppyM — Caramel MC, cream CC. Arms ×2. Floppy ears ×2, unstuffed, hanging from eye level. Cream oval muzzle. Longer stub tail, curved to one side. Round eyes, oval nose.

FoxI.Ny — Orange MC, white CC. Arms ×2. Pointed ears ×2 with white inners. White oval muzzle. White chest patch. Long bushy tail with white tip. Slightly angled eyes, small nose, short smile.

Making up

Use mattress stitch and a 1-stitch seam allowance unless a step says ladder stitch. Seam, stuff, then attach. Do not attach an open, empty limb.

1. Eyes, if you are using safety eyes

Adult display only. Not for a child under 3.

On the head panel, before any seaming, place 12 mm safety eyes on the marked front, 1.5 in / 4 cm down from the cast-on (crown) edge and 1.25 in / 3 cm apart from center to center. Fit the washers on the wrong side now. You cannot fit them after the head is stuffed.

If you are embroidering the eyes — the default — skip this step and embroider after the head is stuffed and seamed.

2. Head

Gather the cast-on (8 sts) tightly. That is the crown. Mattress-stitch the side edges together from crown to chin. This seam is center back; the marker is center front. Stuff in small pieces as the seam advances, keeping the equator round. The chin is already gathered. If a small hole remains at either pole, close it with ladder stitch.

The head should be firm and round, about 3.5 in wide. If the stitches open, remove filling.

3. Limbs — close, then stuff

• Arms and wings: The paw or wing tip is already gathered. Mattress-stitch from the tip toward the cast-on. Stuff the arm in small pieces as you seam. Leave the cast-on open. Stuff a wing only lightly, or leave it flat.
• Legs: Mattress-stitch from the toe toward the cast-on, with the short-row foot on the front and the seam on the back. Stuff in small pieces. Keep the foot lightly stuffed so it stays rounded, not ballooned. Leave the cast-on open.

4. Body

Mattress-stitch the side edges together from the neck bind-off down to the cast-on. This seam is center back. Stuff in small pieces. Slip the pellet pouch into the seat if you are using one, and tuck it against the base so it cannot wander up into the chest. Ladder-stitch the cast-on edge closed, keeping the base flat rather than cinched into a point, so the doll can sit. Leave the neck open.

Omit the pellet pouch for a child under 3. Loose pellets are a choking hazard if a seam ever opens.

5. Joint the limbs (movable)

Default for display and for older children: limbs are movable, not fixed.

Use strong thread doubled in the doll needle. Pass through the body and both limbs, then back again, so each joint has at least two full passes. Pull firmly until the limb sits against the body and can rotate, but does not flop under its own weight. Knot, pass the ends back through the body, and trim.

Shoulders. Entry point: on one side of the body, 1 in / 2.5 cm below the neck bind-off, halfway between center front and the back seam. Exit: the matching point on the other side. Pass the needle through the first arm 0.5 in / 1.25 cm below its cast-on edge, side to side; through the body from shoulder to shoulder; through the second arm the same way; then back through arm, body, and arm once more. Wings are jointed on these same points.

Hips. Entry point: on one side of the body, 1 in / 2.5 cm above the closed base, halfway between center front and the back seam. Exit: the matching point on the other side. Pass through each leg 0.5 in / 1.25 cm below its cast-on edge. Orient the short-row foot forward before you pull the thread tight.

Test the sit and the stand before you bury the knot. Legs should swing forward for sitting and hang straight for standing.

Under 3, do not thread-joint. Sew each limb on with yarn, using ladder stitch around the cast-on edge, at the same entry points. Fixed limbs. Extra stitches through the limb and the body, so a single thread failure cannot free the piece.

6. Head to neck

Pin the neck opening to the underside of the head in a circle about 1.25 in / 3 cm across, centered slightly forward of the chin gather, with the head seam at center back. Ladder-stitch the neck bind-off to the head. Add a pinch of stuffing into the neck as you close it, so the head does not wobble. The full head sits above the body; do not sink the head so far that the eye line drops onto the neck.

7. Ears, muzzle, tail, patches

Sew every feature on with ladder stitch and a doubled yarn tail. Pass the ends back and forth through the head or body twice more before trimming, so a child cannot pull the piece off in one tug.

Pointed ears (wolf, fox): Sew inner ear to outer ear first. Stuff only the base of the ear, lightly. Set the ears on the upper sides of the head, about 1 in / 2.5 cm down from the crown and about 2 in / 5 cm apart at the base, angled slightly outward. Cup the base as you sew so the ear stands.

Rabbit ears: Inner ear already sewn to outer; do not stuff. To help them stand, run a strand of matching yarn up the center back of each ear, catch the tip, and return to the base. Pull just enough to stiffen, not enough to buckle the ear, and knot at the base. Sew the bases to the top of the head, 0.5 in / 1.25 cm either side of center, with a slight outward lean. A few extra stitches through the base, catching head fabric in a short line rather than a single point, keep them upright.

Floppy ears: Sew the cast-on edge to the side of the head at eye level, so the ear hangs beside the cheek. No stuffing.

Rounded ears: Sew inner to outer. Lightly stuff Dwaekki and Quokka ears; leave Jiniret ears flat. Set them on the upper sides of the head, about 1.25 in / 3 cm down from the crown and 2 in / 5 cm apart. Cup the base.

Muzzle: Center it on the front, top of the muzzle about 1.75 in / 4.5 cm down from the crown. Quokka’s muzzle sits 0.25 in lower.

Pig snout: Center it about 2 in / 5 cm down from the crown. Sew the open cast-on edge in a circle.

Beak: Center it about 2.25 in / 5.5 cm down from the crown, in place of a nose.

Chest or belly patch: Center it on the front of the body, top of the patch just below the neck.

Tails: Center back. Bushy and fox tails: about 1.25 in / 3 cm above the base, sewn on by the bound-off edge, angled out or to one side. Slim ferret tail: about 2 in / 5 cm above the base, curved up. Puff and stub tails: about 1 in / 2.5 cm above the base.

Tuft: Cluster at the crown, over the gather.

8. Embroider the face

Measure from the crown gather, on the center-front half of the head.

• Eye line: 1.5 in / 4 cm down from the crown
• Eyes: 1.25 in / 3 cm apart, center to center
• Nose: 2.25 in / 5.5 cm down from the crown, centered on the muzzle (or on the head, for Leebit)
• Mouth: 0.5 in / 1.25 cm below the nose

Eyes, default: Satin-stitch ovals in black, each about 0.25 in / 6 mm wide, with one small white straight stitch at the upper outer edge for a highlight. Wolf and fox: tilt the outer corner up a little. Everyone else: round, level ovals. French knots are an acceptable substitute if you pull them tight and pass the thread through the head twice to lock them.

Nose: Satin stitch. Wolf and fox: a small triangle. Leebit: a pink Y or small X. Puppy: a horizontal oval in dark brown or black. Ferret and quokka: a small triangle or oval. Dwaekki: nostrils already on the snout; do not add a second nose. BbokAri: no embroidered nose.

Mouth: Backstitch. A short gentle curve for wolf, fox, ferret, and puppy. A tiny straight line under the nose for the rabbit. A wide upturned curve for the quokka, wider than the muzzle if you can, since the smile is the character. A short curve under the snout for Dwaekki. No mouth on the chick unless you want a tiny line under the beak.

Cheeks, optional: Two pale pink straight stitches or a light blush of embroidery on Leebit, BbokAri, and Dwaekki, set just below and outside the eyes.

Do not use beads, buttons, or glued felt for features.

9. Scarf

Tie at the side. Removable for display. Sewn down or omitted for a child under 3.

Pose and weight

The pellet pouch in the seat lets the doll sit without tipping and helps a stand if the feet are set flat. If the doll tips, the pouch is too high — open the base ladder stitch, drop the pouch against the bottom, and close again. Do not open a finished toy that belongs to a child under 3 in order to add pellets.

To stand the doll, swing the legs straight under the hips and set the short-row feet flat. To sit, swing the legs forward. Arms and wings rotate at the shoulder.

Care

Spot-clean. If you must wash, remove the scarf, hand-wash in cool water, press water out in a towel, and dry flat, reshaping the head and ears. Do not machine-wash or tumble-dry. Do not wash a pellet-weighted toy; the pouch may shift or open. Check seams, joints, and embroidered features before the toy is given to a child.

Yarn and needle summary

• Worsted, US 6 / 4 mm straight needles, two needles throughout
• 22 sts and 30 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in unblocked Stockinette
• Standing 12 in / 30 cm, seated 8.5 in / 21.5 cm, at this gauge