purlJam

<pattern>

# FRANGIPANI FLOWER
**A beginner-friendly decorative flower with five curved petals**

Create a beautiful tropical frangipani (plumeria) flower perfect for embellishing bags, hats, garments, or home décor. This pattern uses simple short-row shaping to create naturally curved petals that are assembled into a dimensional flower.

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Worsted weight yarn, approximately 120 yards (110m) total
- Main Color (MC): 100 yards (91m) for petals
- Contrast Color (CC) [optional]: 20 yards (18m) for center detail

**Yarn Suggestion**: Smooth, tightly spun worsted weight yarn in white, cream, pink, or yellow for traditional frangipani colors

**Machine**: Standard gauge (4.5mm) knitting machine
- Compatible with all standard gauge machines (Brother, Silver Reed, Studio/Singer)
- No ribber required
- No punchcard/electronic programming required

**Notions**:
- Waste yarn and ravel cord for cast-on
- Cast-on comb and weights (multiple small weights recommended)
- Transfer tool
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Stitch markers or contrast yarn (for marking center points)
- Blocking mat and pins
- Small buttons, beads, or embroidery thread for flower center (optional)

---

## TENSION/GAUGE

**Tension Dial**: T7 (adjust for your machine and yarn)

**Gauge**: 5.5 stitches and 7 rows = 1" (2.5cm) in stockinette stitch

**Important**: Make a gauge swatch before beginning. Cast on 30 stitches at T7, knit 40 rows, remove from machine and let relax for 30 minutes. Measure the center 20 stitches and 30 rows. If your gauge differs significantly, adjust tension dial.

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

**Flower Diameter**: Approximately 8" (20cm) when petals are arranged
**Individual Petal**: 4" (10cm) long × 2.5" (6.5cm) at widest point

---

## ABBREVIATIONS & TERMS

**RC** = Row Counter
**COL** = Carriage on Left
**COR** = Carriage on Right
**T** = Tension dial setting (e.g., T7)
**MC** = Main Color
**CC** = Contrast Color
**HP** = Holding Position (needles out toward you, not knitting)
**WP** = Working Position (needles knitting normally)
**st(s)** = stitch(es)
**L** = Left
**R** = Right

**Waste yarn method**: Use waste yarn and ravel cord for easy cast-on
**Hold/Partial knitting**: Some needles held in HP while others knit, creating short rows
**Short rows**: Rows that don't knit across all needles, used for shaping

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction**: Each petal is knitted separately from base to tip, then all 5 petals are sewn together at the center.

2. **Short Row Technique**: This pattern uses hold/partial knitting to shape the curved petal edges. Set your carriage to HOLD mode (exact setting varies by machine brand - consult your manual). Needles in HP will not knit; the carriage passes over them.

3. **Carriage Settings**: 
   - Part button/lever: OFF (unless noted)
   - Hold button/lever: ON for short-row sections
   - Normal knitting mode for straight sections

4. **Consistency**: Knit all 5 petals identically. Use the RC and check measurements after each petal.

5. **Weights**: Attach weights to keep even tension, especially during short rows. Add small weights to each side as the knitting progresses.

6. **Needle Arrangement**: All petals use every needle (no needle selection).

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### MACHINE SETUP
- Set tension dial to T7 for MC
- Thread carriage with MC
- Set carriage to normal knit mode
- Row counter to 000

---

### PETAL (Make 5 identical)

**Cast On**
1. Using waste yarn, cast on 8 stitches centered on needle bed (4 needles left of center 0, 4 needles right of center 0). You can use needles L4 to R4, or center your work as preferred.
2. Knit 8-10 rows waste yarn at T10.
3. Knit 1 row ravel cord.
4. Set tension to T7.
5. Change to MC.
6. Hang cast-on comb and weight.
7. RC 000.

**Base of Petal (Straight Section)**
- RC 000: COL. Knit 1 row. (8 sts)
- RC 001: COR. Knit 1 row.
- RC 002: COL. Knit 1 row.
- RC 003: COR. Knit 1 row.
- RC 004: COL. Knit 1 row.
- RC 005: COR. Knit 1 row.

*Math check: 6 rows at 7 rows/inch = 0.85" base section*

**Increase Section (Building Width)**
- RC 006: COL. Bring 1 needle to WP on each side (now 10 sts). Knit 1 row.
- RC 007: COR. Knit 1 row.
- RC 008: COL. Bring 1 needle to WP on each side (now 12 sts). Knit 1 row.
- RC 009: COR. Knit 1 row.
- RC 010: COL. Bring 1 needle to WP on each side (now 14 sts). Knit 1 row.
- RC 011: COR. Knit 1 row.
- RC 012: COL. Bring 1 needle to WP on each side (now 16 sts). Knit 1 row.
- RC 013: COR. Knit 1 row.

*Math check: 8 rows increases = 1.14" | Total width now 16 sts ÷ 5.5 sts/inch = 2.9" wide*

**Widest Section (Maintain Width)**
- RC 014-021: Continue knitting straight on all 16 sts for 8 rows. End COR at RC 021.

*Math check: 8 rows = 1.14" | Total length so far = 0.85" + 1.14" + 1.14" = 3.13"*

**Tip Shaping (Short Rows for Rounded Top)**

*Set carriage to HOLD mode now*

- RC 022: COL. Push 2 needles on right side to HP (14 sts in WP). Knit to right.
- RC 023: COR. Push 2 needles on left side to HP (12 sts in WP). Knit to left.
- RC 024: COL. Push 2 more needles on right side to HP (10 sts in WP). Knit to right.
- RC 025: COR. Push 2 more needles on left side to HP (8 sts in WP). Knit to left.
- RC 026: COL. Push 2 more needles on right side to HP (6 sts in WP). Knit to right.
- RC 027: COR. Push 2 more needles on left side to HP (4 sts in WP). Knit to left.
- RC 028: COL. Push 1 more needle on right side to HP (3 sts in WP). Knit to right.
- RC 029: COR. Push 1 more needle on left side to HP (2 sts in WP). Knit to left.

*Now return needles to work, creating the rounded shape*

- RC 030: COL. Return 1 needle on right side to WP (3 sts in WP). Knit to right.
- RC 031: COR. Return 1 needle on left side to WP (4 sts in WP). Knit to left.
- RC 032: COL. Return 2 needles on right side to WP (6 sts in WP). Knit to right.
- RC 033: COR. Return 2 needles on left side to WP (8 sts in WP). Knit to left.
- RC 034: COL. Return 2 needles on right side to WP (10 sts in WP). Knit to right.
- RC 035: COR. Return 2 needles on left side to WP (12 sts in WP). Knit to left.
- RC 036: COL. Return 2 needles on right side to WP (14 sts in WP). Knit to right.
- RC 037: COR. Return 2 needles on left side to WP (16 sts in WP). Knit to left.

*Return carriage to normal knit mode (Hold OFF)*

- RC 038-041: Knit 4 rows straight on all 16 sts. End COR at RC 041.

*Math check: Tip shaping = 20 rows ÷ 7 rows/inch = 2.86" | This creates the rounded petal tip*

**Decrease Section (Tapering Back)**
- RC 042: COL. Decrease 1 st each side: transfer outermost st on each side to adjacent needle (14 sts). Knit 1 row.
- RC 043: COR. Knit 1 row.
- RC 044: COL. Decrease 1 st each side (12 sts). Knit 1 row.
- RC 045: COR. Knit 1 row.
- RC 046: COL. Decrease 1 st each side (10 sts). Knit 1 row.
- RC 047: COR. Knit 1 row.
- RC 048: COL. Decrease 1 st each side (8 sts). Knit 1 row.
- RC 049: COR. Knit 1 row.

*Math check: Final RC = 50 rows total ÷ 7 rows/inch = 7.14" petal length (includes waste rows that will be removed)*

**Bind Off**
- RC 050: COL. Using latch tool, chain bind off all 8 sts loosely.
- Remove petal from machine.
- Carefully unravel ravel cord to release petal from waste yarn.

**Repeat for Remaining Petals**
Make 4 more petals, identical to the first. Reset RC to 000 for each new petal and follow all instructions exactly.

---

### OPTIONAL FLOWER CENTER (Version 1: Small Knitted Circle)

**Cast On**
1. Cast on 8 sts centered on bed using waste yarn method.
2. RC 000. T7. MC or CC as desired.

**Instructions**
- RC 000-009: Knit 10 rows straight. End COR at RC 009.
- Bind off loosely with latch tool.
- Remove from machine and release from waste yarn.
- Roll the small rectangle into a tight spiral to create a center button.

**Version 2: Simple Embroidered Center**
- Skip knitted center and use embroidery or duplicate stitch to create center detail after assembly.

---

## FINISHING

### BLOCKING PETALS
1. Steam press each petal lightly on wrong side, being careful not to flatten the short-row curves.
2. Pin petals to blocking mat if needed to even out edges.
3. Let dry completely.

### ASSEMBLING THE FLOWER
1. Lay out all 5 petals with the narrow base ends meeting at a central point.
2. Arrange petals in a pinwheel/spiral pattern, overlapping the base of each petal slightly over the edge of the previous petal (this creates the characteristic frangipani spiral).
3. Using tapestry needle and MC, sew the bases of all petals together securely at the center point. Weave through multiple times to create a stable join.
4. If petals don't lie flat naturally, add a few small tack stitches where edges overlap to hold the spiral shape.

### ADDING CENTER DETAIL (Optional)
- **If using knitted center**: Attach the small knitted spiral to the flower center with a few stitches.
- **If embroidering**: Use CC to create French knots, small star stitches, or satin stitch in the center where all petals meet.
- **If using embellishments**: Sew on small yellow beads, a button, or other decorative center.

### FINAL TOUCHES
1. Weave in all yarn ends on wrong side of petals.
2. Steam press assembled flower lightly from wrong side if needed.
3. If using as a brooch, sew a pin back to the center back.
4. If using as an appliqué, sew or glue to desired item.

---

## DESIGN VARIATIONS

**Color Options**:
- Classic white with yellow center
- Pink or coral petals with darker pink center
- Yellow petals with orange center
- Variegated yarn for multicolor effect

**Size Adjustments**:
- **Smaller flower (6" diameter)**: Cast on 6 sts, increase to 12 sts at widest, reduce all sections by 4-6 rows
- **Larger flower (10" diameter)**: Cast on 10 sts, increase to 20 sts at widest, add 8-10 rows to each section

**Petal Count**:
- Make 6 petals for a fuller flower
- Make 4 petals for a simpler design

**Texture**:
- Knit petals at tighter tension (T5-T6) for firmer, more structured petals
-