purlJam

---

# HIGHLAND TWIST CARDIGAN

*A classic 5-button cardigan with a cable panel on the chest and mock cables at the sides. Worked flat in pieces from the bottom up and seamed. Suitable for confident beginners.*

---

## MATERIALS

- **Yarn**: Worsted weight yarn (approx. 100 m / 109 yds per 100 g skein)
  - XS: 6 skeins | S: 7 skeins | M: 8 skeins | L: 9 skeins | XL: 10 skeins
  - (Total approx. 1,200–1,800 m / 1,310–1,970 yds)
  - *Suggested fibre: wool or wool-blend for best stitch definition*
- **Needles**:
  - 4.5 mm (UK size 7 / US size 7) straight or circular needles — main fabric
  - 4.0 mm (UK size 8 / US size 6) straight or circular needles — ribbing
- **Notions**:
  - Cable needle (cn)
  - 5 buttons, approx. 18–22 mm diameter
  - Stitch markers
  - Tapestry needle
  - Scissors

---

## TENSION (GAUGE)

**20 stitches × 26 rows = 10 cm (4 in) in stocking stitch on 4.5 mm needles.**

Please check your tension before beginning. A correct tension is essential for achieving the correct size. If you have more stitches than stated, try larger needles. If you have fewer stitches, try smaller needles.

---

## SIZES

| Size | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| To fit bust | 81 cm (32 in) | 91 cm (36 in) | 101 cm (40 in) | 111 cm (44 in) | 122 cm (48 in) |
| Finished bust (blocked) | 86 cm (34 in) | 96 cm (38 in) | 106 cm (42 in) | 116 cm (46 in) | 126 cm (50 in) |
| Body length to underarm | 38 cm (15 in) | 38 cm (15 in) | 40 cm (15¾ in) | 40 cm (15¾ in) | 42 cm (16½ in) |
| Armhole depth | 20 cm (8 in) | 21 cm (8¼ in) | 22 cm (8¾ in) | 23 cm (9 in) | 24 cm (9½ in) |
| Sleeve length (cuff to underarm) | 44 cm (17¼ in) | 44 cm (17¼ in) | 46 cm (18 in) | 46 cm (18 in) | 48 cm (19 in) |

*Instructions are written for size XS, with other sizes in parentheses: XS (S, M, L, XL).*
*Where only one figure is given, it applies to all sizes.*

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **k** | knit |
| **p** | purl |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **RS** | right side |
| **WS** | wrong side |
| **rep** | repeat |
| **beg** | beginning |
| **rem** | remaining |
| **inc** | increase |
| **dec** | decrease |
| **k2tog** | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| **ssk** | slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit both slipped sts together through back loops (left-leaning decrease) |
| **yo** | yarn over |
| **pm** | place marker |
| **sm** | slip marker |
| **cn** | cable needle |
| **C6F** | Cable 6 Front: slip 3 sts to cn and hold at front, k3, then k3 from cn |
| **MT (Mock Twist)** | Skip first stitch, knit into second stitch on left needle through the back loop, then knit the first stitch normally, slip both stitches off needle together |
| **cast off** | bind off |
| **cont** | continue |
| **patt** | pattern |

---

## NOTES

1. **Construction**: The cardigan is worked in separate flat pieces — back, left front, right front, and two sleeves — then seamed together at the shoulders and sides. Button bands are picked up and worked last.

2. **Reading the Pattern**: Instructions are given for size XS first, with larger sizes in parentheses (S, M, L, XL). Always identify your size before you begin and highlight it throughout.

3. **Cable Panel (C6F)**: This 6-stitch cable is worked on the RS only. The cable cross is worked every 6th row. See the Cable Panel chart and written instructions in the LEFT FRONT and RIGHT FRONT sections. The panel is centred on the front body between the armhole and the button band.

4. **Mock Cable (MT)**: A simple 2-stitch travelling twist that mimics a cable without a cable needle. It is worked at the side edges of the back and both fronts, giving the impression of a vertical cable column at the seam. The twist is worked every 4th row on RS rows. **No cable needle is needed.**

5. **Tension Note**: Cables and mock cables draw in the fabric slightly. Your tension swatch must include the cable or mock cable to be accurate.

6. **Increases and Decreases**: All shaping is worked 1 stitch in from the edge to keep a neat selvedge for seaming: *k1, ssk* (left-leaning) or *k2tog, k1* (right-leaning) at armholes; *k1, M1L* or *M1R, k1* for sleeve increases.

7. **Metric First**: All measurements are given in centimetres (cm) with inches (in) in parentheses.

---

## BACK

### Cast On
Using 4.0 mm needles, cast on **86 (96, 106, 116, 126) sts**.

> **Inline check**: At 20 sts / 10 cm, 86 sts = 43 cm; 96 sts = 48 cm; 106 sts = 53 cm; 116 sts = 58 cm; 126 sts = 63 cm. Each back piece is half the finished bust. ✓

### Ribbing
**Row 1 (RS):** *K2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
**Row 2 (WS):** *P2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Rep Rows 1–2 until ribbing measures **6 cm (2½ in)**, ending with a WS row.

### Establish Main Pattern with Mock Cables at Side Edges
Change to 4.5 mm needles.

The mock cable (MT) column sits over the first **4 sts** at each side edge. The centre of the back is worked in stocking stitch.

**Set-Up Row (RS):** MT over first 2 sts, k2, knit to last 4 sts, k2, MT over last 2 sts.

> *Note: The MT column is 2 sts wide; the 2 sts beside it (k2) form the seam buffer. The total side mock cable section = 4 sts each side.*

**Mock Cable Pattern for Back (worked on RS rows)**

Work the following 4-row repeat:

- **Row 1 (RS) — Twist Row:** k1, MT, k1, knit to last 4 sts, k1, MT, k1.
- **Row 2 (WS):** Purl all sts.
- **Row 3 (RS):** Knit all sts.
- **Row 4 (WS):** Purl all sts.

Rep these 4 rows throughout the back body.

### Body
Continue in pattern as set (Mock Cable at each edge, stocking stitch in centre) until back measures **38 (38, 40, 40, 42) cm [15 (15, 15¾, 15¾, 16½) in]** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

### Armhole Shaping
**Cast off 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows.** — *78 (86, 96, 104, 114) sts rem.*

**Decrease Row (RS):** K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. — *2 sts decreased.*
**Next row (WS):** Purl.

Rep these 2 rows **3 (4, 5, 5, 6) more times.** — *70 (76, 84, 92, 100) sts rem.*

> **Inline check (size M):** 106 − 10 (cast off) − 12 (decreases × 6 rows) = 84 sts. ✓

Continue straight in stocking stitch (omitting mock cables as they are now in the seam allowance) until armhole measures **20 (21, 22, 23, 24) cm [8 (8¼, 8¾, 9, 9½) in]**, ending with a WS row.

### Shoulder and Back Neck Shaping
**Next Row (RS):** Cast off **21 (23, 26, 29, 32) sts**, knit until there are **28 (30, 32, 34, 36) sts** on right needle (this is the back neck), cast off next **21 (23, 26, 29, 32) sts**, knit to end.

> **Inline check**: 21 + 28 + 21 = 70 sts ✓ | 23 + 30 + 23 = 76 ✓ | 26 + 32 + 26 = 84 ✓ | 29 + 34 + 29 = 92 ✓ | 32 + 36 + 32 = 100 ✓

Place back neck sts on a holder or spare yarn. Cast off shoulder sts as directed.

---

## LEFT FRONT

*(As worn — this front has the buttonholes on the right side of the band.)*
*(When working from the pattern, the cable will sit at the right side of your work on RS rows.)*

### Cast On
Using 4.0 mm needles, cast on **44 (49, 54, 59, 64) sts**.

> **Inline check**: Each front = approx. half back + 1 st for seam overlap. 44 sts = 22 cm; 49 = 24.5 cm; 54 = 27 cm; 59 = 29.5 cm; 64 = 32 cm. ✓

### Ribbing
**Row 1 (RS):** *K2, p2; rep from * to last 0 (1, 2, 3, 0) sts, k0 (1, 2, 3, 0).
**Row 2 (WS):** P0 (1, 2, 3, 0), *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Rep Rows 1–2 until ribbing measures **6 cm (2½ in)**, ending with a WS row.

### Establish Main Pattern
Change to 4.5 mm needles.

**Stitch Layout (Left Front, RS):**
- Sts 1–4: Mock cable section (left/side edge)
- Sts 5 to (centre panel start): Stocking stitch
- Centre 6 sts: Cable Panel (C6F)
- Remaining sts to end: Stocking stitch (front edge)

**Centring the Cable Panel:**
The cable panel of 6 sts is centred between the mock cable section and the front edge. This position is fixed at the beginning of the armhole shaping.

Calculate the cable position for your size:

| Size | Total sts | Side section (4 sts) | Cable position (sts) | Rem front edge sts |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 44 | 4 | Sts 21–26 | 18 |
| S | 49 | 4 | Sts 23–28 | 21 |
| M | 54 | 4 | Sts 25–30 | 24 |
| L | 59 | 4 | Sts 28–33 | 26 |
| XL | 64 | 4 | Sts 30–35 | 29 |

### Cable Panel Written Instructions (6 sts)
Work the following 6-row repeat over the 6 cable sts:

- **Rows 1, 3, 5 (RS):** K6 (knit across cable sts).
- **Rows 2, 4, 6 (WS):** P6 (purl across cable sts).
- **Row 7 is not used — cable cross occurs on Row 1 every 6th RS row (i.e., after 5 plain RS rows).**

**Cable Cross Row (RS — worked every 6th row):** C6F: Slip 3 sts to cn, hold at front; k3 from left needle; k3 from cn.

*For the beginner: On all other RS rows, simply knit across the 6 cable stitches. On WS rows, purl across them. Every 12 rows (6 RS rows), work the cable cross.*

### Full Left Front Pattern Row Instructions

**Set-Up Row (RS):** k1, MT, k1, knit to cable position, work cable sts as given, knit to end.

**Mock Cable 4-Row Repeat** (same as back, applied to first 4 sts at side edge):

- **Row 1 (RS):** k1, MT, k1, knit to cable position, work cable row, knit to end.
- **Row 2 (WS):** Purl to end.
- **Row 3 (RS):** Knit to cable position, work cable row, knit to end.
- **Row 4 (WS):** Purl to end.

Rep these 4 rows, maintaining the 6-row cable cross repeat separately.

*Tip: Use a row counter or two — one for the mock cable (count to 4) and one for the cable cross (count to 6 RS rows). Mark your cable cross rows before you begin.*

### Body
Continue as set until left front measures **38 (38, 40, 40, 42) cm [15 (15, 15¾, 15¾, 16½) in]** from cast-on edge, ending with a **RS row** (so the next row will be a WS row before armhole shaping).

### Armhole Shaping (side edge)
**Next Row (WS):** Cast off **4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts** at beg of row (side edge), purl to end. — *40 (44, 49, 53, 58) sts rem.*

**Decrease Row (RS):** K1, ssk, work in pattern to end. — *1 st decreased.*
**Next row (WS):** Purl.

Rep these 2 rows **3 (4, 5, 5, 6) more times.** — *36 (39, 43, 47, 51) sts rem.*

> **Inline check (size M):** 54 − 5 (cast off) − 6 (dec × 6) = 43 sts. ✓

Continue straight, maintaining cable and stocking stitch pattern, until armhole measures **13 (14, 14, 15, 15) cm [5 (5½, 5½, 6, 6) in]**, ending with a **WS row**.

### Neck Shaping
**Next Row (RS) — Begin neck shaping:** Work in pattern to last **7 (8, 8, 9, 9) sts**, turn, place these **7 (8, 8, 9, 9) sts** on a holder (these will form part of the neckband later).

**Decrease Row (RS):** Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. — *1 st decreased at neck edge.*
**Next row (WS):** Purl.

Rep these 2 rows **8 (8, 9, 9, 10) more times.** — *21 (23, 26, 29, 32) sts rem.*

> **Inline check (size M):** 43 − 8 (holder) − 9 (dec) = 26 sts for shoulder. ✓

Continue straight until armhole matches back armhole depth — **20 (21, 22, 23, 24) cm** — ending with a WS row.

### Shoulder
Cast off all **21 (23, 26, 29, 32) sts**.

---

## RIGHT FRONT

*(As worn — this front receives the buttons.)*

The right front is a mirror image of the left front, with the cable panel and mock cable mirrored.

### Cast On
Using 4.0 mm needles, cast on **44 (49, 54, 59, 64) sts**.

### Ribbing
Same as Left Front ribbing.

### Establish Main Pattern
Change to 4.5 mm needles.

**Stitch Layout (Right Front, RS):**
- Sts 1 to front edge button section: Stocking stitch (front edge)
- Centre 6 sts: Cable Panel (mirrored — use **C6B** for mirror effect, or C6F for consistency — see note)
- Remaining sts to last 4: Stocking stitch
- Last 4 sts: Mock cable section (right/side edge)

> **Beginner's Note**: For simplicity, you may work the same C6F cable on both fronts. The direction of the cable cross will be a mirror on each front, which looks attractive and intentional. If you prefer identical cables on both fronts, use C6F on both.

**C6B (Cable 6 Back — optional mirror cable):** Slip 3 sts to cn, hold at back; k3 from left needle; k3 from cn.

**Cable position (Right Front)** — measured from front edge:

| Size | Front edge sts before cable | Cable sts | Sts before mock cable | Mock cable (last 4) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 14 | 6 | 20 | 4 |
| S | 15 | 6 | 24 | 4 |
| M | 18 | 6 | 26 | 4 |
| L | 20 | 6 | 29 | 4 |
| XL | 21 | 6 | 33 | 4 |

> **Inline check (size M):** 18 + 6 + 26 + 4 = 54 sts ✓

### Full Right Front Pattern Row Instructions

- **Row 1 (RS):** Knit to cable position, work cable row, knit to last 4 sts, k1, MT, k1.
- **Row 2 (WS):** Purl all sts.
- **Row 3 (RS):** Knit to cable position, work cable row, knit to end.
- **Row 4 (WS):** Purl all sts.

Rep these 4 rows, maintaining the 6-row cable cross repeat.

### Body
Continue as set until right front measures **38 (38, 40, 40, 42) cm**, ending with a **WS row**.

### Armhole Shaping (side edge)
**Next Row (RS):** Cast off **4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts** at beg of row (side edge), work in pattern to end. — *40 (44, 49, 53, 58) sts rem.*

**Next Row (WS):** Purl.

**Decrease Row (RS):** Work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. — *1 st decreased.*
**Next Row (WS):** Purl.

Rep these 2 rows **3 (4, 5, 5, 6) more times.** — *36 (39, 43, 47, 51) sts rem.*

Continue straight until armhole measures **13 (14, 14, 15, 15) cm**, ending with a **RS row**.

### Neck Shaping
**Next Row (WS) — Begin neck shaping:** Cast off (or place on holder) **7 (8, 8, 9, 9) sts** at beg of row (neck/front edge), purl to end.

**Next Row (RS):** Knit.
**Decrease Row (WS):** P1, p2tog, purl to end. — *1 st decreased at neck edge.*

Rep these 2 rows **8 (8, 9, 9, 10) more times.** — *21 (23, 26, 29, 32) sts rem.*

Continue straight until armhole matches back armhole depth, ending with a WS row.

### Shoulder
Cast off all **21 (23, 26, 29, 32) sts**.

---

## SLEEVES

*Both sleeves are worked the same.*

### Cast On
Using 4.0 mm needles, cast on **40 (42, 44, 46, 48) sts**.

> **Inline check**: 40 sts = 20 cm cuff width; 48 sts = 24 cm. Appropriate for a worsted-weight sleeve. ✓
> All cast-on numbers are even, divisible by 2 for k2, p2 rib. ✓

### Cuff Ribbing
**Row 1 (RS):** *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
**Row 2 (WS):** *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Rep Rows 1–2 until cuff measures **6 cm (2½ in)**, ending with a WS row.

### Sleeve Body
Change to 4.5 mm needles. Work in stocking stitch (knit RS rows, purl WS rows).

**Increase Row (RS):** K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, k1. — *2 sts increased.*

Work increase row every **8th row** **9 (10, 11, 11, 12) times total** (including any increases already worked).

After all increases: **58 (62, 66, 68, 72) sts.**

> **Inline check (size M):** 44 + (11 × 2) = 44 + 22 = 66 sts. ✓

Continue straight until sleeve measures **44 (44, 46, 46, 48) cm [17¼ (17¼, 18, 18, 19) in]** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

### Sleeve Cap Shaping
**Cast off 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows.** — *50 (52, 56, 56, 60) sts rem.*

**Decrease Row (RS):** K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. — *2 sts decreased.*
**Next Row (WS):** Purl.

Rep these 2 rows until **18 (18, 20, 20, 22) sts rem.**

Cast off all remaining sts.

> **Inline check (size M):** 56 − 18 = 38 sts to be decreased = 19 decrease rows. ✓

---

## BUTTON BANDS

Sew shoulder seams before picking up for button bands. (See FINISHING for seaming instructions.)

### Button Band (Left Front — as worn)
*This band is on the front edge of the left front and does NOT have buttonholes.*

With RS facing and 4.0 mm needles, beginning at the lower left front edge, pick up and knit approximately **3 sts for every 4 rows** along the front edge and around to the centre back neck (you will pick up around the shaped neckline and across the held back neck sts).

**Suggested pick-up counts (front edge only, not including neck):**

| Size | Pick-up count |
|---|---|
| XS | 92 |
| S | 92 |
| M | 98 |
| L | 98 |
| XL | 104 |

*Note: Adjust as needed to achieve a flat, unpuckered band. An odd number of sts is fine for k1, p1 rib if needed.*

**Row 1 (WS):** *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
**Row 2 (RS):** *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

Rep Rows 1–2 until band measures **2.5 cm (1 in)**. Cast off in rib pattern.

### Buttonhole Band (Right Front — as worn)
*This band has 5 buttonholes evenly spaced.*

With RS facing and 4.0 mm needles, beginning at the top right front edge (neck edge), pick up and knit the same number of stitches as the button band, ending at the lower right front edge.

**Row 1 (WS):** *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
**Row 2 (RS — Buttonhole Row):** Work buttonholes as follows:

Work **5 (5, 5, 5, 5) buttonholes**, evenly spaced. Place the first buttonhole **2 cm from the top edge** and the last buttonhole **2 cm from the lower edge**, with the remaining **3 buttonholes** evenly spaced between.

**Buttonhole Method (2-stitch one-row buttonhole):**
At each buttonhole position: Cast off 2 sts, then on the return row cast on 2 sts over the gap.

**Two-row buttonhole:**
- **Row 2 (RS):** Work in rib to buttonhole position, cast off 2 sts, *work to next buttonhole position, cast off 2 sts; rep from * 4 times, work to end.
- **Row 3 (WS):** Work in rib, casting on 2 sts over each cast-off gap using the backward loop method.

Continue in rib until band measures **2.5 cm (1 in)**. Cast off in rib pattern.

> **Button spacing example (size M, pick-up of 98 sts):**
> Band length = approx. 49 cm.
> First button at 2 cm from top, last button at 2 cm from bottom = 45 cm working space.
> 45 ÷ 4 intervals = 11.25 cm between buttons ≈ 11 cm (rounded). ✓ 5 buttons total. ✓

---

## FINISHING

### Blocking
Before seaming, wet block all pieces. Soak in cool water for 20 minutes, gently squeeze out excess moisture (do not wring), and lay flat to measurements given in the SIZES table. Pin cables and mock cables gently open to show definition. Allow to dry completely.

### Seaming Order
1. **Shoulder Seams**: With right sides together, join left and right shoulders using mattress stitch or three-needle cast-off.

2. **Set in Sleeves**: With right sides together, pin sleeve caps into armholes, matching centre of sleeve cap to shoulder seam. Sew in place using mattress stitch.

3. **Side and Sleeve Seams**: Sew side seams from lower hem to underarm, then sleeve seams from cuff to underarm in one continuous line. The mock cable columns should align and meet neatly at the side seam.

4. **Neckband**: With RS facing and 4.0 mm needles, pick up and knit sts from right front neck holder, up right front neck shaping, across back neck holder sts, down left front neck shaping, and across left front neck holder sts.

   Work in k1, p1 rib for 2.5 cm (1 in). Cast off in rib. *Note: Begin at the right front so that the buttonhole side is picked up first. Add a 6th small buttonhole at the top of the buttonhole band in the neckband if desired.*

5. **Attach Buttons**: Sew buttons to the button band (left front), aligning exactly with the buttonholes in the buttonhole band (right front). Use a double length of yarn or button thread for security.

6. **Weave In Ends**: Weave in all yarn ends on the WS using a tapestry needle, working ends along the same colour/stitch line for at least 5 cm to secure.

---

## SCHEMATIC (Measurements in cm)

```
BACK                          FRONT (each)
┌──────────────────┐          ┌──────────┐
│←── 43–63 cm ──→│          │←22–32 cm→│
│                  │          │          │
│  ↑ Body          │          │  Cable   │
│  38–42 cm        │          │  Panel   │
│                  │          │          │
│  ↑ Armhole       │          │          │
│  20–24 cm        │          │          │
│                  │          │          │
└──────────────────┘          └──────────┘

SLEEVE
  ───────────────
 /  58–72 cm top  \
/                  \
└────── 20–24 cm ──┘
      cuff
```

---

*Pattern design and technical editing: Highland Twist Cardigan — All rights reserved. For personal use only.*