Type
Crochet
Difficulty
intermediate
Category
bag
AI Thinking Process
Planning
1. **Design Strategy**: Analyzing style requirements and selecting techniques.
* **Bag Style**: Front crossbody bag featuring a distinctive Japanese knot (Muso bag) closure.
* **Stitch Selection**: Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS) will be the primary fabric for its inherent density, strength, and minimal stretch, which are crucial for securing contents and bearing weight.
* **Closure Mechanism**: The Muso bag closure involves two integrated straps of differing lengths. The longer strap will loop through an opening formed by the shorter strap, ensuring the bag opening is completely sealed and invisible when closed, and its contents are highly secure.
* **Strap Design**: The strap will be exceptionally wide (designed at 4.5 inches / 11.5 cm at its narrowest) and continuous with the bag body to comfortably distribute the specified 7kg (approximately 15.4 lbs) weight across the shoulder and back, akin to a baby sling, minimizing pressure points.
* **Yarn Choice**: Worsted weight (Category 4) 100% cotton yarn is selected for its robust strength, durability, and resistance to stretching, making it ideal for a heavy-duty bag.
* **Difficulty Level**: Intermediate, suitable for crocheters familiar with basic Tunisian crochet techniques, including starting chains, TSS, decreases, and binding off.
* **Terminology & Measurements**: US English spelling, US crochet terminology, and imperial measurements (inches) followed by metric equivalents (cm) in parentheses.
2. **Construction Plan**: Determining the structural approach.
* The bag will be constructed from two identical main panels (Front and Back), each designed to seamlessly integrate a strap extension. This method ensures that the desirable "right side" texture of the Tunisian Simple Stitch (characterized by vertical bars) is consistently displayed on both exterior sides of the bag.
* **Panel Creation (Front & Back)**: Each panel will begin with a foundational chain to establish the bag's bottom width. Tunisian Simple Stitch rows will then be worked upwards to form the main body of the bag.
* **Strap Transition**: Following the bag body, a carefully planned decrease section will gradually narrow the fabric from the bag's full width to the designed strap width. This shaping provides an ergonomic transition from the bag body to the strap.
* **Strap Lengths**:
* **Front Panel Strap**: This will be the "shorter" strap, designed to create a loop for the closure.
* **Back Panel Strap**: This will be the "longer" strap, designed to pass through the loop of the shorter strap and provide the necessary length for a comfortable crossbody fit.
* **Assembly**: Once both panels are completed, they will be joined along the bottom and side edges using a durable seam (e.g., slip stitches or single crochet through both loops), creating a robust and neat finish. The strap sections remain unseamed to facilitate the Japanese knot closure.
* **Finishing**: The pattern will include instructions for binding off stitches and weaving in ends, along with an optional edging for a polished look around the bag opening and strap edges.
3. **Quality Assurance**: Checking for common pitfalls and edge cases.
* **Strap Durability and Comfort**:
* **Width Validation**: The strap's calculated width (4.5 inches / 11.5 cm) is designed to effectively distribute heavy loads and prevent discomfort.
* **Integrated Construction**: Crafting the straps as continuous extensions of the bag panels eliminates weak points that could occur with sewn-on handles, ensuring maximum strength for carrying up to 7kg.
* **Material Strength**: 100% cotton yarn in worsted weight is chosen for its high tensile strength and minimal stretch, critical for a heavy-duty bag.
* **Closure Security and Aesthetics**: The Japanese knot closure design will be clearly articulated, ensuring users can achieve a secure and aesthetically pleasing closure where the opening is entirely hidden.
* **Tunisian Stitch Orientation**: Working two separate flat panels prevents spiraling issues often encountered when working Tunisian crochet directly in the round, ensuring a consistent and intentional display of the stitch's right side.
* **Gauge Precision**: Emphasizing gauge consistency is paramount. Variations could significantly alter the bag's final dimensions, strap lengths, and the proper functioning of the knot closure. Precise gauge measurements and instructions for adjustment will be included.
* **Difficulty Appropriateness**: Instructions will be broken down logically and sequentially, targeting an intermediate skill level, assuming basic proficiency in Tunisian crochet.
* **Measurement Accuracy**: All dimensions, stitch counts, and row counts have been meticulously calculated based on the specified gauge and will be provided in both imperial and metric units to prevent ambiguity.
* **Yarn Estimate**: A realistic yarn quantity will be estimated based on the calculated dimensions and the dense nature of TSS to help crafters plan their purchase.
4. **Final Calculations**: Establishing gauge and key dimensions.
* **Target Gauge (Tunisian Simple Stitch)**:
* 16 TSS stitches x 14 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) using the recommended hook size.
* **Bag Body Dimensions (for each panel)**:
* **Target Width**: 12 inches (30.5 cm)
* *Calculation*: (12 inches / 4 inches) * 16 stitches/4in = **48 stitches**
* **Target Height**: 14 inches (35.5 cm)
* *Calculation*: (14 inches / 4 inches) * 14 rows/4in = **49 rows**
* **Strap Transition Section (Decreases for narrowing)**:
* **Initial Width**: 48 stitches (from bag body)
* **Target Strap Width**: 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) at its narrowest.
* *Calculation*: (4.5 inches / 4 inches) * 16 stitches/4in = **18 stitches**
* **Total Stitches to Decrease**: 48 - 18 = 30 stitches.
* **Decreases per side**: 30 stitches / 2 sides = 15 decreases per side.
* **Transition Length**: Approximately 4 inches (10 cm)
* *Calculation*: (4 inches / 4 inches) * 14 rows/4in = **14 rows**.
* *Decrease Strategy*: To achieve a smooth decrease over 14 rows, we will decrease 1 stitch at each end on certain rows. This means alternating decrease rows and straight rows, or decreasing 1 stitch at each end every row until 18 stitches remain. For simplicity and intermediate level, we will decrease 1 stitch at each end on specified rows. To get 15 decreases per side over 14 rows, this implies decreasing almost every row. Let's adjust to achieve 15 decreases over 15 rows for easier calculation in pattern (1 decrease per side per row). This will make the transition length (15 rows / 14 rows per 4 inches) * 4 inches = approximately 4.28 inches (10.8 cm). This slight adjustment is acceptable.
* **Shorter Strap Dimensions (after transition)**:
* **Width**: 18 stitches
* **Target Length**: 9 inches (23 cm) (enough to form a sturdy loop for the knot)
* *Calculation*: (9 inches / 4 inches) * 14 rows/4in = 31.5 rows -> **32 rows**
* **Longer Strap Dimensions (after transition)**:
* **Width**: 18 stitches
* **Target Length**: 30 inches (76 cm) (to pass through the shorter strap's loop and provide a comfortable crossbody drop)
* *Calculation*: (30 inches / 4 inches) * 14 rows/4in = 105 rows -> **105 rows**
Verification
[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS]
Before generating the pattern, verify your plan against the requirements:
1. **Completeness**: Yes, the plan includes all required sections derived from the template (Market Tote Bag adapted) and user requests. It covers design strategy, construction, quality assurance, and detailed calculations.
2. **Consistency**:
* **Stitch Count/Gauge/Dimensions**: All calculations for stitch counts, row counts, and dimensions are consistent with the established gauge of 16 TSS sts x 14 rows = 4 inches (10 cm).
* Bag width 12" -> 48 sts.
* Bag height 14" -> 49 rows.
* Strap width 4.5" -> 18 sts.
* Strap transition 15 rows.
* Shorter strap 9" -> 32 rows.
* Longer strap 30" -> 105 rows.
* **Terminology**: US English spelling and US crochet terminology are specified and will be used throughout the pattern.
3. **Constraints**: All user-specific requests have been addressed:
* **Tunisian Simple Stitch**: Primary stitch chosen for density and security.
* **Front Crossbody Bag**: Addressed by dimensions and strap design.
* **Japanese Knot-like/Muso Bag closure**: Detailed in construction plan for security and hidden opening.
* **Contents Completely Secure & Opening Not Visible**: Achieved by TSS fabric and Muso closure.
* **Wide Strap (baby-sling like) for 7kgs**: Strap is 4.5 inches wide and integrated, designed for strength and comfort.
* **Difficulty Level (Intermediate)**: Instructions are planned for this level, assuming basic Tunisian crochet knowledge.
* **Worsted Weight Cotton**: Recommended yarn specified.
4. **Safety**: The math for stitch and row counts, as well as decreases, has been verified. The calculations for the bag body and strap dimensions are consistent with the chosen gauge. The strap length for the Muso closure has been carefully considered to ensure it functions correctly. No apparent errors in math or logic.
Pattern
# Japanese Knot Crossbody Bag - Tunisian Simple Stitch
This pattern creates a sturdy and stylish crossbody bag, featuring a unique Japanese knot (Muso bag) closure that keeps your belongings secure and hidden. The wide, integrated strap is designed for comfortable carrying, distributing weight evenly, much like a baby sling, making it ideal for loads up to 7 kg (approximately 15.4 lbs). Crafted with dense Tunisian Simple Stitch, this bag offers exceptional durability and minimal stretch.
**Difficulty Level:** Intermediate
**Finished Measurements:**
* **Bag Body**: Approximately 12 inches (30.5 cm) wide x 14 inches (35.5 cm) tall
* **Shorter Strap (from bag body top)**: Approximately 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) wide x 9 inches (23 cm) long
* **Longer Strap (from bag body top)**: Approximately 4.5 inches (11.5 cm) wide x 30 inches (76 cm) long
* **Total Bag + Strap Length (Longer Side)**: Approximately 48 inches (122 cm)
**Materials:**
* **Yarn**: Worsted weight (Category 4) 100% cotton yarn
* Approximately 1000-1200 yards (915-1100 meters)
* *Example*: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Dishie Cotton, or similar
* **Hook**: US K / 10.5 (6.5 mm) Tunisian crochet hook with a cable (at least 16 inches / 40 cm long)
* **Notions**: Yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape
**Gauge (Tunisian Simple Stitch):**
16 TSS stitches x 14 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)
*It is crucial to check your gauge. Adjust hook size if necessary to achieve the stated gauge, as variations will affect the bag's size and strap lengths.*
---
**Abbreviations (US Crochet Terminology):**
* **ch**: chain
* **FwdP**: Forward Pass
* **Lp**: Loop
* **Rem**: Remaining
* **RetP**: Return Pass
* **sc**: single crochet
* **sl st**: slip stitch
* **st(s)**: stitch(es)
* **TSS**: Tunisian Simple Stitch (insert hook under vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop)
* **TSS2tog**: Tunisian Simple Stitch 2 together (insert hook under first vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop; insert hook under next vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop; yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook) - *Note: This is a common decrease method, effectively making 2 vertical bars into 1.*
**Special Stitch Instructions:**
* **Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS)**:
* **FwdP**: Insert hook under the front vertical bar of the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop. Keep all loops on hook. Repeat across.
* **RetP**: Yarn over, pull through 1 loop (chain 1, forms edge stitch); [yarn over, pull through 2 loops] repeat until 1 loop remains on hook.
* **TSS Decrease (TSS2tog)**: To decrease one stitch, work a TSS into the first vertical bar, then immediately work another TSS into the next vertical bar. Yarn over, pull through both loops on the hook. This effectively works two stitches together.
* *Note on TSS2tog*: For this pattern, when TSS2tog is specified at the *beginning* of a row, skip the first vertical bar (which is the edge stitch) and work TSS2tog into the next two vertical bars. When working at the *end* of a row, work TSS2tog into the last two vertical bars before the final edge stitch.
---
**Pattern Notes:**
* The bag is worked in two flat panels (Front and Back), which are then seamed together. This ensures the best appearance for Tunisian Simple Stitch.
* Each panel consists of the bag body, a transition section where the width is decreased for the strap, and the strap itself.
* The first vertical bar on the hook is always counted as the first stitch.
* Always insert your hook under the two vertical loops of the last stitch of the previous row (often called the "full stitch" or "chain-like stitch") to create a neat edge.
---
### **Panel 1: Front Panel with Shorter Strap**
**Bag Body (Worked Flat):**
**Row 1 (FwdP):** Ch 48. Insert hook into the 2nd ch from hook, yarn over, pull up a loop. Pull up a loop in each rem ch across. (48 loops on hook)
**Row 1 (RetP):** Work RetP. (48 TSS sts)
**Row 2 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar (the one under the loop on your hook). Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last st. Work TSS into the last st (insert hook under the two vertical loops of the last stitch). (48 loops on hook)
**Row 2 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Rows 3-49:** Repeat Row 2 FwdP and RetP.
* *Validation*: After Row 49, the panel should measure approximately 12 inches (30.5 cm) wide by 14 inches (35.5 cm) tall. (49 rows * (4 inches / 14 rows) = 14 inches). (48 stitches * (4 inches / 16 stitches) = 12 inches).
**Strap Transition (Decreasing for Strap Width):**
* In this section, you will decrease the stitch count from 48 sts to 18 sts over 15 rows, narrowing the strap to 4.5 inches (11.5 cm). This means you will be decreasing 1 st at each end of the FwdP in 15 rows (total of 30 sts decreased).
**Row 50 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last 3 sts. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS into the last st. (46 loops on hook)
**Row 50 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Row 51 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last 3 sts. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS into the last st. (44 loops on hook)
**Row 51 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Row 52 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last 3 sts. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS into the last st. (42 loops on hook)
**Row 52 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Row 53 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last 3 sts. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS into the last st. (40 loops on hook)
**Row 53 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Row 54 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last 3 sts. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS into the last st. (38 loops on hook)
**Row 54 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Row 55 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last 3 sts. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS into the last st. (36 loops on hook)
**Row 55 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Row 56 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last 3 sts. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS into the last st. (34 loops on hook)
**Row 56 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Row 57 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last 3 sts. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS into the last st. (32 loops on hook)
**Row 57 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Row 58 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last 3 sts. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS into the last st. (30 loops on hook)
**Row 58 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Row 59 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last 3 sts. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS into the last st. (28 loops on hook)
**Row 59 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Row 60 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last 3 sts. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS into the last st. (26 loops on hook)
**Row 60 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Row 61 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last 3 sts. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS into the last st. (24 loops on hook)
**Row 61 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Row 62 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last 3 sts. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS into the last st. (22 loops on hook)
**Row 62 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Row 63 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last 3 sts. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS into the last st. (20 loops on hook)
**Row 63 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Row 64 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last 3 sts. TSS2tog over the next 2 vertical bars. Work TSS into the last st. (18 loops on hook)
**Row 64 (RetP):** Work RetP.
* *Validation*: After Row 64, you should have 18 active loops on your hook. The transition section should measure approximately 4.28 inches (10.8 cm) (15 rows * (4 inches / 14 rows)).
**Shorter Strap (Straight Section):**
**Rows 65-96:** Repeat Row 2 FwdP and RetP, maintaining 18 TSS sts per row.
* *Validation*: This section adds 32 rows to the strap. (32 rows * (4 inches / 14 rows) = 9.14 inches (23.2 cm)). The shorter strap (after transition) should measure approximately 9 inches (23 cm) in length.
**Bind Off for Shorter Strap:**
**Row 97 (Bind Off):** Skip the first vertical bar. Insert hook under the next vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop, pull through the loop on your hook (sl st made). Repeat across, making 1 sl st in each vertical bar until the last st. Make a sl st into the last st (insert hook under the two vertical loops). (18 sl sts)
Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming (approx. 20 inches / 50 cm).
---
### **Panel 2: Back Panel with Longer Strap**
**Bag Body (Worked Flat):**
**Row 1 (FwdP):** Ch 48. Insert hook into the 2nd ch from hook, yarn over, pull up a loop. Pull up a loop in each rem ch across. (48 loops on hook)
**Row 1 (RetP):** Work RetP. (48 TSS sts)
**Row 2 (FwdP):** Skip the first vertical bar. Work TSS in each vertical bar across until the last st. Work TSS into the last st. (48 loops on hook)
**Row 2 (RetP):** Work RetP.
**Rows 3-49:** Repeat Row 2 FwdP and RetP.
* *Validation*: After Row 49, the panel should measure approximately 12 inches (30.5 cm) wide by 14 inches (35.5 cm) tall. (49 rows * (4 inches / 14 rows) = 14 inches). (48 stitches * (4 inches / 16 stitches) = 12 inches).
**Strap Transition (Decreasing for Strap Width):**
**Rows 50-64:** Repeat Rows 50-64 from "Panel 1: Strap Transition" section. You should again end with 18 loops on your hook.
* *Validation*: After Row 64, you should have 18 active loops on your hook. The transition section should measure approximately 4.28 inches (10.8 cm).
**Longer Strap (Straight Section):**
**Rows 65-169:** Repeat Row 2 FwdP and RetP, maintaining 18 TSS sts per row.
* *Validation*: This section adds 105 rows to the strap. (105 rows * (4 inches / 14 rows) = 30 inches (76 cm)). The longer strap (after transition) should measure approximately 30 inches (76 cm) in length.
**Bind Off for Longer Strap:**
**Row 170 (Bind Off):** Skip the first vertical bar. Insert hook under the next vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop, pull through the loop on your hook (sl st made). Repeat across, making 1 sl st in each vertical bar until the last st. Make a sl st into the last st (insert hook under the two vertical loops). (18 sl sts)
Fasten off, leave a long tail for seaming (approx. 20 inches / 50 cm).
---
### **Assembly & Finishing**
1. **Seaming the Bag Body:**
* Place the Front Panel and Back Panel together, wrong sides facing.
* Using the long tail from one panel and a yarn needle, or a separate piece of yarn for seaming, stitch together the bottom edge and both side edges of the bag body. Use a sturdy seaming method like the mattress stitch or whip stitch through both loops for durability.
* *Validation*: Ensure the bag body forms a secure pouch, approximately 12 inches (30.5 cm) wide x 14 inches (35.5 cm) deep.
* Weave in all remaining loose ends securely.
2. **Optional Edging (Single Crochet):**
* For a neater finish, you can add a single crochet border around the opening of the bag and along the edges of the straps.
* With right side facing, attach yarn with a sl st to any point on the bag opening or strap edge. Ch 1, then work sc sts evenly around the entire opening and both strap edges. For flat edges, aim for 1 sc per row. For corners, work 3 sc in the same st. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.
3. **Japanese Knot Closure:**
* Lay the bag flat. The shorter strap (from Panel 1) will form a loop.
* Take the end of the shorter strap and pull it through the opening created by the bag body (the unseamed top edge of the bag), creating a loop on one side.
* Take the end of the longer strap (from Panel 2) and thread it *through* the loop formed by the shorter strap.
* Pull the longer strap through until the bag is securely closed and the opening is no longer visible. The weight of the bag's contents will help secure the knot.
* Adjust the knot and straps for a comfortable crossbody fit.
**Care Instructions:**
* Machine wash cold on gentle cycle. Lay flat to dry to maintain shape and prevent stretching.
---
*End of Pattern*
Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk
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