purlJam

# Little Twist Pullover
### A Buttonless Cable Crochet Sweater for Baby Boy (Large Newborn / 3–6 months)

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## ⚠️ Important Notes Before You Begin

**About images:** This pattern is delivered as text. I'm unable to generate or embed step-by-step photographs inside this chat. To get a photo-illustrated version, copy this pattern into a document (Google Docs, Word, or Pages), then add your own progress photos beside each step.

**About the single-page download:** I can't produce a downloadable file directly here, but you can save this pattern as a one-page PDF in seconds:
1. Copy the entire pattern into a Google Doc or Word document.
2. Set page size to A4 or Letter, margins to "Narrow" (0.5"), font size 9–10 pt.
3. File → Print → "Save as PDF" → Pages: 1 (or "Fit to one page").

**About yarn weight:** You requested DK; this pattern is written for **worsted-weight (CYC #4)** because it's the most common, beginner-friendly choice and creates a slightly warmer fabric for baby. To use **DK yarn instead**, simply use a 4.0 mm (G-6) hook and check gauge — finished measurements will be very close.

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## Skill Level
⭐ **Beginner** — if you can chain, single crochet, double crochet, and work into the front of a stitch (front-post double crochet), you can make this sweater.

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## Finished Measurements (Large Newborn / 3–6 months)
| Measurement | Inches | cm |
|---|---|---|
| Chest (finished, flat × 2) | 19" | 48 cm |
| Body length (cuff of ribbing to shoulder) | 9.5" | 24 cm |
| Sleeve length (cuff to underarm) | 6" | 15 cm |
| Neck opening (stretches) | 5.5" → 8" | 14–20 cm |

Designed with ~2" of positive ease over a 17" baby chest.

> **Other sizes available** in the appendix at the end (Small/Medium/Large/XL/2XL adult sizes from the master template — note: this pattern is optimized for newborn).

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** ~150 yards (140 m) of worsted-weight (CYC #4) acrylic, cotton, or wool blend in the main color. *Suggested: Lion Brand Vanna's Choice, Bernat Softee Baby Chunky, or any soft baby-friendly worsted.*
- **Hook:** 5.0 mm (US H-8)
- **Notions:**
  - Tapestry/yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends
  - Stitch markers (4)
  - Scissors
  - Measuring tape
  - Optional: blocking mat and pins

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## Abbreviations (US Terms)
- **ch** — chain
- **sl st** — slip stitch
- **sc** — single crochet
- **dc** — double crochet
- **BLO** — back loop only
- **FPdc** — front-post double crochet (insert hook around the post of the indicated stitch from front to back to front, yarn over and complete as a dc)
- **sk** — skip
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **rep** — repeat
- **RS / WS** — right side / wrong side

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## Gauge
**14 dc × 8 rows = 4" (10 cm)** on a 5.0 mm hook.
Make a swatch! If yours is bigger, go down a hook size; smaller, go up.

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## Stitch Pattern: Simple Faux Cable (worked over 13 sts, 6-row repeat)

This cable is created using front-post double crochets that "cross" over a center stitch. It's simpler than a traditional cable — no special hooks or holders needed.

**Cable Panel (over 13 sts):**
- **Rows 1, 3 (RS):** dc in each of 13 sts.
- **Row 2 (WS):** dc in each of 13 sts.
- **Row 4 (RS — Cable Twist Row):** dc in next 3 sts, **sk next 3 sts**, FPdc around the post of each of the next 3 sts (working into the row below), then go BACK and FPdc around the 3 skipped sts (working in front of the just-made FPdcs to "cross"), dc in next 3 sts. *(13 sts)*
- **Rows 5, 6:** dc in each of 13 sts.

> 💡 **Beginner tip:** The cable twist looks intimidating but is just "skip three, work three around the next three posts, then come back and work three around the skipped ones." Take it slow on Row 4 — count out loud!

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# THE PATTERN

## 🟦 BACK PANEL

**Foundation:** Ch 35.

**Row 1 (WS):** sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. *(34 sc)*
> ✏️ *Math check: 35 ch − 1 turning ch = 34 sc ✓*

**Rows 2–5 (Ribbing, 4 rows):** Ch 1, turn. sc BLO in each st across. *(34 sc each row)*

**Row 6 (Begin Body — RS):** Ch 2 (does NOT count as a stitch), turn. dc in each st across. *(34 dc)*

**Rows 7–20:** Ch 2, turn. dc in each st across. *(34 dc — 15 dc rows total)*
> ✏️ *Math check: 15 dc rows × 0.5"/row = 7.5" of dc body + 1.5" ribbing + ~0.5" neckband contribution = ~9.5" total ✓*

**Fasten off**, leaving an 18" tail for shoulder seaming.

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## 🟦 FRONT PANEL (with Cable)

**Foundation:** Ch 35.

**Row 1 (WS):** sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. *(34 sc)*

**Rows 2–5 (Ribbing):** Ch 1, turn. sc BLO in each st across. *(34 sc)*

**Set-up Row 6 (RS):** Ch 2, turn. dc in next 10 sts, place marker, dc in next 13 sts (these are the cable panel sts), place marker, dc in last 11 sts. *(34 dc)*
> ✏️ *Math check: 10 + 13 + 11 = 34 ✓ — the slight asymmetry (10 vs 11) is to allow seam allowance; cable will appear visually centered.*

**Row 7 (WS):** Ch 2, turn. dc in each st across. *(34 dc)*

**Row 8 (RS):** Ch 2, turn. dc in next 10 sts, dc 13 (cable section, plain row), dc in last 11. *(34 dc)*

**Row 9 (WS):** Ch 2, turn. dc across. *(34 dc)*

**Row 10 (RS — Cable Twist Row):**
- Ch 2, turn.
- dc in next 10 sts.
- dc in next 3 cable sts.
- **Skip next 3 sts.** FPdc around the post of each of the next 3 sts (the 7th, 8th, and 9th sts of the cable panel).
- Now go back: FPdc around each of the 3 skipped sts, working IN FRONT of the FPdcs you just made (this creates the "twist").
- dc in last 3 cable sts.
- dc in last 11 sts. *(34 sts)*

**Rows 11–12:** Ch 2, turn. dc across. *(34 dc each)*

**Row 13 (RS):** dc across. *(34 dc)*

**Row 14 (WS):** dc across. *(34 dc)*

**Row 15 (RS):** dc across. *(34 dc)*

**Row 16 (RS — Cable Twist Row):** Repeat Row 10 instructions. *(34 sts)*

**Rows 17–20:** Ch 2, turn. dc across. *(34 dc each)*
> ✏️ *Math check: rows 6–20 = 15 rows of dc body, matching back panel ✓. Two cable twists at rows 10 and 16, spaced 6 rows apart ✓.*

**Fasten off**, leaving an 18" tail.

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## 🟦 SLEEVES (Make 2)

**Foundation:** Ch 19.

**Row 1 (WS):** sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. *(18 sc)*

**Rows 2–5 (Cuff Ribbing):** Ch 1, turn. sc BLO in each st across. *(18 sc)*

**Row 6 (Begin Sleeve — RS):** Ch 2, turn. 2 dc in first st, dc in each st to last st, 2 dc in last st. *(20 dc)*

**Row 7:** Ch 2, turn. dc in each st across. *(20 dc)*

**Row 8 (Increase Row):** Ch 2, turn. 2 dc in first st, dc to last st, 2 dc in last st. *(22 dc)*

**Row 9:** dc across. *(22 dc)*

**Row 10 (Increase Row):** 2 dc in first st, dc across to last st, 2 dc in last st. *(24 dc)*

**Row 11:** dc across. *(24 dc)*

**Row 12 (Increase Row):** 2 dc in first st, dc across to last st, 2 dc in last st. *(26 dc)*

**Rows 13–15:** Ch 2, turn. dc in each st across. *(26 dc)*

**Fasten off**, leaving a 24" tail for sleeve seaming and setting in.
> ✏️ *Math check: cuff 18 → underarm 26 = 8 sts increased over 4 increase rows (4 × 2 = 8) ✓. Total sleeve length: 4 ribbing rows (~1") + 10 dc rows (~5") = 6" ✓.*

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# 🧵 ASSEMBLY & FINISHING

### Step 1 — Block (optional but recommended)
Lightly steam or wet-block all four pieces flat to even measurements.

### Step 2 — Shoulder Seams
Lay Front and Back with right sides together. Using the long tail and a tapestry needle, **whip stitch** across the top edge from the armhole edge inward for **2.5"** on each side. Leave the center **4.5"** open for the neck.
> ✏️ *Math check: total top edge ≈ 9.4" (34 sts ÷ 14 sts/4" × 4"). 2.5" + 4.5" + 2.5" = 9.5" ✓*

### Step 3 — Set in Sleeves
With sweater still flat (RS facing out), find the center top of each sleeve. Pin it to the shoulder seam. Pin the rest of the sleeve top edge evenly along the armhole opening (sleeve top measures ~7.4" — armhole opening is the 6" of body rows × 2 sides folded out flat = ~6", so ease the sleeve in gently). Whip stitch in place.

### Step 4 — Side & Underarm Seams
Fold the sweater so front and back are right-sides together. In one continuous seam per side, whip stitch from the cuff edge, along the underarm, and down the side body to the bottom ribbing. Repeat on the other side.

### Step 5 — Neckband (worked in the round)

Turn sweater right-side-out. Join yarn at the right shoulder seam.

**Round 1:** Ch 1. Work approximately **40 sc** evenly around the neck opening (about 1 sc per row-end on the sides and 1 sc per st across the front/back necklines). Sl st to first sc to join.
> ✏️ *Math check: 40 sc × ~0.27"/sc = ~10.8" relaxed circumference; stretches comfortably over a 14–15" baby head ✓*

**Rounds 2–4:** Ch 1, sc BLO in each st around. Sl st to join. *(40 sc each round)*

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

### Step 6 — Weave in Ends
Use the tapestry needle to weave each remaining tail into the wrong side of the fabric, going in two directions for security. Trim.

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## 📐 Final Stitch & Measurement Summary
| Component | Stitches | Rows | Approx. size |
|---|---|---|---|
| Back | 34 | 5 ribbing + 15 dc | 9.4" × 9" |
| Front | 34 | 5 ribbing + 15 dc | 9.4" × 9" |
| Sleeve (×2) | 18 → 26 | 5 ribbing + 10 dc | cuff 5" → top 7.4", length 6" |
| Neckband | 40 | 4 rounds | ~5.5" relaxed, 8"+ stretched |

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## 🎨 Customization Ideas
- **Stripes:** Change colors every 2 dc rows on body.
- **Longer body:** Add 2–4 extra dc rows before fastening off body pieces (adds ~1–2").
- **Hood instead of neckband:** After step 4, work 30 dc rows around the neck opening and seam top.

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## 📋 Appendix — Larger Sizes (Adult, from master template)
For reference if you want to scale up later (worsted, same gauge):

| Size | Chest finished | Starting ch (front/back) | Sleeve start ch |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small (34–36") | 36" | ch 65 | ch 31 |
| Medium (38–40") | 40" | ch 71 | ch 33 |
| Large (42–44") | 44" | ch 79 | ch 35 |
| XL (46–48") | 48" | ch 85 | ch 37 |
| 2XL (50–52") | 52" | ch 93 | ch 39 |

(For adult sizes: extend body to 22–25" length, sleeves to 17–19", and shape a rounded neckline with skipped stitches at the front center 3 rows before shoulder.)

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## 📝 Pattern Tester Notes
- Always check gauge — even a small variation across baby-sized garments shifts fit by a full size.
- The cable twist row uses more yarn than plain rows; budget accordingly.
- For machine washability, choose superwash wool or acrylic.

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**© Pattern for personal and small-batch handmade use. Please credit the designer when sharing finished items. Happy hooking! 🧶**