Minimalist Cream Hobo Tote

A sleek, structured shoulder bag worked in dense single crochet from a seamless oval base. The softly rounded rectangular body has a slim shaped gusset for extra capacity, and a wide shoulder strap curves smoothly up from both sides in one continuous piece. Front and back are identical, clean, and unembellished — pure minimalist style.

Finished Dimensions

• Width: 13 in (33 cm) at widest point
• Length (height): 14 in (35.5 cm), excluding strap
• Gusset depth (side): 4 in (10 cm)
• Strap: approximately 3.5 in (9 cm) wide, ~11 in (28 cm) drop from top edge

Total finished height including strap: approximately 25 in (63.5 cm).

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted weight (#4) 100% cotton in natural cream/off-white
  • Approximately 550–600 yds (500–550 m)
• Hook: US H/8 (5 mm)
• Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle, scissors
• Optional: sew-in fabric lining for extra structure

Gauge

16 sc x 18 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in single crochet, worked dense.

Gauge is critical for a firm, structured bag. If your fabric is loose or floppy, drop to a US G/6 (4 mm) hook.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• inc – 2 sc in same stitch (increase)
• rnd(s) – round(s)
• sl st – slip stitch
• BLO – back loop only

Construction Notes

The bag is worked bottom-up in continuous spirals (do not join unless stated). Place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you go. The oval base is worked seamlessly, the body rises straight up, then the piece splits at the top into a front and back panel which curve inward at each side to form the wide integrated strap. The strap ends are joined at the top to complete the loop.

PART 1 — Seamless Oval Base

Foundation: Ch 30.

Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 28 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Now working along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc in next 28 ch, 2 sc in last ch (the same end you started). Join into the round by continuing in a spiral. (28 + 3 + 28 + 2 = 62 sc) ✓

Place marker to begin working in continuous rounds.

Rnd 2: [1 sc in next 28 sts, inc] then across the curved end distribute 6 evenly — total 62 + 12 = 74 sc ✓ (Work as: sc 28, [inc, sc 1] 3 times, sc 28, [inc, sc 1] 3 times = 74)

Rnd 3: Sc 28, [inc, sc 2] 3 times, sc 28, [inc, sc 2] 3 times = 86 sc ✓

Rnd 4: Sc 28, [inc, sc 3] 3 times, sc 28, [inc, sc 3] 3 times = 98 sc ✓

Rnd 5: Sc 28, [inc, sc 4] 3 times, sc 28, [inc, sc 4] 3 times = 110 sc ✓

Rnd 6: Sc 28, [inc, sc 5] 3 times, sc 28, [inc, sc 5] 3 times = 122 sc ✓

Rnd 7: Sc 60, inc, sc 60, inc = 124 sc ✓

The base should now measure approximately 13 in (33 cm) long and 4 in (10 cm) wide. Lay flat to check it does not cup; blocking gently if needed.

PART 2 — Body (Straight Section)

To create a clean, defined base edge, work the first round in the back loop only.

Rnd 8: BLO, sc in each st around = 124 sc ✓

Rnds 9–58: Sc in each st around, working through both loops. (50 rounds)

At the end of Rnd 58 the body should measure approximately 12 in (30.5 cm) tall from the base edge. Combined with base curve, total height so far ≈ 12.5 in (32 cm).

Rnds 59–63: Sc in each st around = 124 sc. (5 more rounds, adds ~1 in / 2.5 cm)

Total body height now approximately 14 in (35.5 cm). Do not fasten off.

Note on shaping: The dense sc naturally lets the flat body panels puff slightly forward and back while the narrow ends stay slim — giving the slim 4 in gusset and softly rounded rectangular silhouette without extra shaping.

PART 3 — Splitting for Front, Back & Integrated Strap

The 124 sts divide into: Front panel = 50 sts, Back panel = 50 sts, and two gusset/side sections = 12 sts each (12 + 12 = 24). (50 + 50 + 12 + 12 = 124 ✓)

You will now work the front and back panels flat, shaping each side inward to form the curved strap, then join the two straps at the top.

Establish the opening

Beginning at the start-of-round marker (which sits at one narrow side/gusset center):

Setup: Sc across the next 12 sts (this is the first side/gusset). Continue in sc across the next 50 sts (front panel). You will now leave the remaining 62 sts (second gusset 12 + back panel 50) unworked and turn to work the front strap in rows.

PART 3A — Front Panel & Strap (worked flat in rows)

Turn at the end of the front panel (50 sts on the working panel; the two adjacent gusset sections form the curved shoulders).

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc across 50 sts = 50 sc ✓ Rows 2–4: Ch 1, turn, sc across = 50 sc each row.

Begin shoulder curve (decrease at both ends to draw the width in smoothly toward the strap):

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog = 48 sc ✓ Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog = 46 sc ✓ Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog = 44 sc ✓ Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog = 42 sc ✓ Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog = 40 sc ✓ Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog = 38 sc ✓

Continue decreasing 2 sts every row until 14 sts remain:

Rows 11–22: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (Row 10 = 38; decreasing 2 per row over 12 more rows: 38 − 24 = 14 sts) ✓

Strap band: With 14 sts remaining, work straight: Rows 23–40: Ch 1, turn, sc across = 14 sc each row. (18 rows ≈ 4 in / 10 cm of strap length)

Strap band width = 14 sts ÷ 16 sts/4" = 3.5 in (9 cm) ✓

Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30 cm) tail for joining.

PART 3B — Back Panel & Strap (worked flat in rows)

Rejoin yarn at the start of the second gusset section. Work exactly as for the front:

Setup: Sc across the remaining 12 gusset sts, then sc across the 50 back-panel sts.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc across 50 sts = 50 sc ✓ Rows 2–4: Sc across = 50 sc. Rows 5–22: Decrease as for front (sc2tog at each end every row) until 14 sts remain. ✓ Rows 23–40: Sc across = 14 sc each row.

Do not fasten off — leave the working yarn attached to join the straps.

PART 4 — Joining the Strap

Bring the two strap ends together with right sides facing (or wrong sides facing for a flat seam on the outside — your preference for a minimalist look use right sides together for a hidden seam).

Hold the front and back strap ends aligned (14 sts each). Working through both layers, sl st across all 14 sts to join, or whip-stitch with the tapestry needle using the reserved tail.

Weave in all ends securely.

PART 5 — Finishing the Gussets & Top Edge

Because the front and back panels curved inward, small gaps remain where each gusset meets the strap curve. To finish neatly:

1. Using the tapestry needle and matching yarn, close any small gap at the top of each gusset with a few discreet whip stitches so the strap flows smoothly from each side.
2. Top edge trim (optional but recommended): Attach yarn at any point along the open top edge of the bag (the shaped sides between the two strap curves). Work 1 round of sc evenly along the exposed edges to create a clean, firm rim. Sl st to join and fasten off.

PART 6 — Blocking & Optional Lining

• Blocking: Lightly steam or wet-block the bag. Stuff with a towel to shape the rounded body and let dry fully to set the structure.
• Optional lining: For a firmer bag, cut cotton lining fabric to match the flat base (13 x 4 in) and body panels, sew into a pouch, and hand-stitch inside the top edge.

Final Measurement Check

• Body circumference: 124 sts ÷ 16 sts/4" = 31 in (79 cm) → laid flat ≈ 13 in wide + 4 in gusset. ✓
• Height: base curve + Rnds 8–63 = 14 in (35.5 cm). ✓
• Strap width: 14 sts = 3.5 in (9 cm). ✓
• Front and back panels: identical construction and stitch counts. ✓

Enjoy your minimalist cream hobo tote — clean lines, sturdy single crochet, and a strap that curves seamlessly from the body.