purlJam

<pattern>

# Nordic Fair Isle Yoke Pullover
## A Beginner-Friendly Circular Yoke Sweater with Stranded Colorwork

---

## PATTERN INFORMATION

**Skill Level:** Intermediate (beginner-friendly colorwork)

**Sizes:** S (M, L, XL, 2XL)
- To fit bust: 34-36" (38-40", 42-44", 46-48", 50-52")
- Finished bust circumference: 38" (42", 46", 50", 54")
- **Note:** Size L (46" finished) is highlighted for user's requested 42" body with 4" ease

*Throughout this pattern, the first number refers to size S, with larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.*

**Finished Measurements:**
- Bust: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)" / 96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137) cm
- Body Length (hem to underarm): 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17)" / 38 (39.5, 40.5, 42, 43) cm
- Yoke Depth: 9 (9.5, 10, 10.5, 11)" / 23 (24, 25.5, 26.5, 28) cm
- Total Length: 24 (25, 26, 27, 28)" / 61 (63.5, 66, 68.5, 71) cm
- Sleeve Length (cuff to underarm): 17 (17.5, 18, 18, 18.5)" / 43 (44.5, 45.5, 45.5, 47) cm
- Upper Arm Circumference: 13 (14, 15, 16.5, 18)" / 33 (35.5, 38, 42, 45.5) cm

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** 4 ply / Fingering weight yarn
- **MC (Main Color - Navy):** 1100 (1250, 1400, 1550, 1700) yards / 1005 (1145, 1280, 1420, 1555) m
- **CC1 (Contrast Color 1 - Cream/White):** 200 (225, 250, 275, 300) yards / 183 (206, 229, 252, 274) m
- **CC2 (Contrast Color 2 - Red):** 75 (85, 95, 105, 115) yards / 69 (78, 87, 96, 105) m

**Suggested Yarn:** Any smooth, non-splitty 4 ply wool or wool blend with good stitch definition (e.g., Jamieson's Spindrift, Rauma Finullgarn, or similar)

**Needles:**
- US 3 (3.25 mm) 32" circular needle for body
- US 3 (3.25 mm) 16" circular needle for sleeves and upper yoke
- US 3 (3.25 mm) double-pointed needles (DPNs) for sleeve cuffs and neckband
- US 2 (2.75 mm) 16" circular needle for neckband (or one size smaller than main needle)
- US 2 (2.75 mm) 32" circular needle for hem and cuff ribbing

*Or size needed to obtain gauge*

**Notions:**
- 4 stitch markers (2 one color for underarms, 2 another color for side "seams")
- Waste yarn or stitch holders for underarms
- Tapestry needle
- Row counter (recommended)

---

## GAUGE

**CRITICAL: Gauge MUST be measured in colorwork pattern, not plain stockinette**

**Colorwork Gauge (in Chart A pattern):**
28 sts × 40 rows = 4" × 4" (10 cm × 10 cm) in stranded colorwork
**= 7 stitches per inch, 10 rows per inch**

**Stockinette Gauge (for reference):**
Approximately 26-27 sts × 38 rows = 4" × 4" in plain stockinette
*Your stockinette gauge will be slightly looser than colorwork gauge - this is normal*

### Gauge Swatch Instructions (ESSENTIAL)
1. Cast on 40 stitches in MC
2. Work 10 rows stockinette in MC
3. Work Chart A pattern for 20 rows using both MC and CC1
4. Work 10 rows stockinette in MC
5. Bind off loosely
6. **Wash and block swatch** - colorwork gauge changes significantly after blocking
7. Measure gauge in the colorwork section ONLY
8. Adjust needle size if needed and re-swatch

⚠️ **Do not skip the colorwork swatch.** Colorwork fabric is denser and less stretchy than plain knitting. An accurate gauge ensures proper fit.

---

## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Stranded Colorwork (Fair Isle) for Beginners

**What is Stranded Colorwork?**
You'll work with two colors in each row, knitting with one color while carrying (floating) the other color loosely across the back of your work.

**Float Management:**
- The yarn not in use "floats" behind the stitches
- In this pattern, floats are never longer than 4 stitches (beginner-friendly!)
- Floats must be loose enough that fabric doesn't pucker
- **Tip:** Spread stitches on right needle before making a float to ensure looseness

**Holding the Yarn:**
- **One-handed method:** Drop one color, pick up the other (slower but simpler)
- **Two-handed method:** Hold MC in right hand, CC in left (faster, more even tension)
- Choose whichever feels comfortable - either works!

**Tension Tips:**
- Keep floats loose, loose, loose! When in doubt, looser is better
- Check the back of your work frequently
- If fabric puckers, floats are too tight
- Practice on your swatch before starting the sweater

**Reading Charts:**
- Charts are read from **bottom to top**
- **Right-side (RS) rows:** Read from **right to left**
- In circular knitting (this pattern), every round is a RS round, so always read right to left
- Each square = one stitch
- Work the pattern repeat as many times as indicated

---

## STITCH GUIDE

**Abbreviations:**
- CO = Cast on
- BO = Bind off
- K = Knit
- P = Purl
- St(s) = Stitch(es)
- Rnd(s) = Round(s)
- MC = Main Color
- CC1 = Contrast Color 1
- CC2 = Contrast Color 2
- PM = Place marker
- SM = Slip marker
- K2tog = Knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
- SSK = Slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- M1L = Make 1 left (left-leaning increase)
- M1R = Make 1 right (right-leaning increase)
- BOR = Beginning of round

**1×1 Ribbing (worked in the round):**
*All rnds:* \*K1, P1; rep from \* around.

**2×2 Ribbing (worked in the round):**
*All rnds:* \*K2, P2; rep from \* around.

---

## COLORWORK CHARTS

### Chart Key:
```
□ = MC (Main Color - Navy)
■ = CC1 (Contrast Color 1 - Cream)
● = CC2 (Contrast Color 2 - Red)
```

**How to Read These Charts:**
- Read all rows from RIGHT to LEFT (we're knitting in the round)
- Row 1 is at the bottom, work upward
- Each square = 1 stitch
- Work the full chart repeat across your round as many times as needed
- Brackets [ ] indicate the pattern repeat section

---

### CHART A: Snowflake Band
*6-stitch repeat × 13 rows*
*Used in main yoke colorwork section*

```
    6 5 4 3 2 1   ← Stitch numbers (read right to left)
    ___________
13 |□ □ □ □ □ □|  
12 |□ □ ■ ■ □ □|  
11 |□ ■ □ □ ■ □|  
10 |■ □ □ □ □ ■|  
 9 |□ ■ □ □ ■ □|  
 8 |□ □ ■ ■ □ □|  
 7 |□ □ □ □ □ □|  
 6 |□ ■ □ □ ■ □|  
 5 |■ □ □ □ □ ■|  
 4 |□ ■ □ □ ■ □|  
 3 |□ □ ■ ■ □ □|  
 2 |□ □ □ □ □ □|  
 1 |□ □ □ □ □ □|  
    ___________
    [  repeat  ]
```

**Chart A Notes:**
- 6-stitch repeat works evenly into all sizes
- Maximum float length: 4 stitches (rows 5, 10)
- Rows 1-2, 7, 13 are plain MC rounds (rest rounds for your hands!)

---

### CHART B: Peerie Pattern (Small Border)
*6-stitch repeat × 5 rows*
*Used as separator bands between larger motifs*

```
    6 5 4 3 2 1
    ___________
 5 |□ □ □ □ □ □|
 4 |□ ● □ □ ● □|
 3 |● □ ● ● □ ●|
 2 |□ ● □ □ ● □|
 1 |□ □ □ □ □ □|
    ___________
    [  repeat  ]
```

**Chart B Notes:**
- Uses CC2 (red) for accent color
- Maximum float length: 3 stitches
- Adds visual interest between snowflake bands

---

### CHART C: XO Pattern
*6-stitch repeat × 9 rows*
*Traditional Fair Isle geometric pattern*

```
    6 5 4 3 2 1
    ___________
 9 |□ □ □ □ □ □|
 8 |□ □ ■ ■ □ □|
 7 |□ ■ □ □ ■ □|
 6 |■ □ □ □ □ ■|
 5 |□ ■ □ □ ■ □|
 4 |□ □ ■ ■ □ □|
 3 |□ □ ■ ■ □ □|
 2 |□ ■ □ □ ■ □|
 1 |□ □ □ □ □ □|
    ___________
    [  repeat  ]
```

**Chart C Notes:**
- Classic diagonal cross pattern
- Maximum float length: 4 stitches (row 6)
- Works well in the upper yoke near neck

---

### CHART D: Corrugated Ribbing
*2-stitch repeat × worked for ribbing depth*
*Optional decorative ribbing for hem and cuffs*

```
    2 1
    ___
   |■ □|  ← Knit MC, Purl CC1
    ___
   [rep]
```

**Chart D Notes:**
- K1 in MC, P1 in CC1
- Creates subtle striped effect in ribbing
- Optional: may use plain MC ribbing instead

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### BODY

The body is worked in the round from the bottom up.

**Hem Ribbing:**
Using US 2 (2.75 mm) 32" circular needle and MC, CO:
- **