purlJam

<pattern>

# OVERSIZED SADDLE SHOULDER PULLOVER

An effortlessly stylish oversized pullover featuring distinctive saddle shoulder construction, a comfortable mock neck, and subtle ribbed texture throughout. The saddle shoulders create a relaxed, vintage-inspired silhouette perfect for layering. Worked top-down with minimal seaming.

**Difficulty Level**: Intermediate  
*Requires knowledge of working flat and in the round, picking up stitches, short rows, and saddle shoulder construction.*

---

## SIZES
XS (S, M, L, XL)

**Finished Bust Circumference**: 100 (110, 120, 130, 140) cm / 39.5 (43.25, 47.25, 51.25, 55)" — worn with 10-15cm (4-6") positive ease for oversized fit

**To Fit Bust**: 80-85 (90-95, 100-105, 110-115, 120-125) cm / 31.5-33.5 (35.5-37.5, 39.5-41.5, 43.25-45.25, 47.25-49.25)"

### Finished Measurements
- **Neck Circumference**: 40 (44, 47, 51, 55) cm / 15.75 (17.25, 18.5, 20, 21.5)"
- **Mock Neck Height**: 7.5 cm / 3"
- **Saddle Length**: 18 (19, 20, 21, 22) cm / 7 (7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.75)"
- **Yoke Depth** (including saddle): 25 (26, 27, 28, 29) cm / 9.75 (10.25, 10.5, 11, 11.5)"
- **Body Length** (from underarm): 38 (40, 42, 44, 46) cm / 15 (15.75, 16.5, 17.25, 18)"
- **Total Length**: 63 (66, 69, 72, 75) cm / 24.75 (26, 27, 28.25, 29.5)"
- **Sleeve Length** (from underarm): 43 (44, 45, 46, 47) cm / 17 (17.25, 17.75, 18, 18.5)"
- **Upper Arm Circumference**: 36 (38, 40, 42, 44) cm / 14.25 (15, 15.75, 16.5, 17.25)"

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
**DK weight (light worsted / 8-ply)** wool or wool-blend yarn

**Yardage Required**: 1050 (1200, 1350, 1500, 1650) metres / 1150 (1310, 1475, 1640, 1805) yards

*Suggested Yarn*: Rowan Pure Wool DK, The Fibre Co. Cumbria DK, Malabrigo Rios, or similar DK weight with good stitch definition for ribbing

### Needles
- **3.5mm (US 4)** circular needle, 40cm (16") length — for mock neck
- **4mm (US 6)** circular needle, 40cm (16") length — for saddles and yoke
- **4mm (US 6)** circular needle, 80cm (32") length — for body
- **4mm (US 6)** double-pointed needles or long circular for magic loop — for sleeves

*Or sizes needed to obtain tension*

### Notions
- 6 stitch markers (1 unique for BOR)
- Waste yarn or stitch holders
- Tapestry needle
- Cable needle or spare DPN (optional, for holding saddle stitches)

---

## TENSION / GAUGE

**22 stitches × 30 rows = 10cm / 4"** in 2×2 rib pattern (slightly stretched), worked in the round on 4mm needles after blocking

**CRITICAL**: Check your tension carefully! The ribbed pattern compresses naturally. Measure with the fabric gently stretched to its relaxed width (not fully compressed, not stretched taut). The stitch count assumes this "relaxed rib" measurement.

### Tension Swatch
Cast on 32 sts using 4mm needles.
**Row 1 (RS)**: *K2, p2; repeat from \* to end.
**Row 2**: *K2, p2; repeat from \* to end.
Repeat Rows 1-2 until swatch measures 15cm.
Cast off in pattern.
Block and measure through the centre of the swatch with gentle stretch.

---

## STITCH GLOSSARY

### Abbreviations
- **BOR** = beginning of round
- **cm** = centimetre(s)
- **CO** = cast on
- **dec** = decrease
- **inc** = increase
- **k** = knit
- **k2tog** = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **kfb** = knit into front and back of stitch (1 stitch increased)
- **m** = marker
- **m1L** = make 1 left (lift bar between stitches from front, knit through back loop)
- **m1R** = make 1 right (lift bar between stitches from back, knit through front loop)
- **p** = purl
- **pm** = place marker
- **rem** = remaining
- **rep** = repeat
- **RS** = right side
- **sm** = slip marker
- **ssk** = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **w&t** = wrap and turn (short row technique)
- **WS** = wrong side
- **yo** = yarn over

### Rib Pattern (in the round)
*Multiple of 4 sts*
**All rounds**: *K2, p2; repeat from \* to end.

### Rib Pattern (flat)
*Multiple of 4 sts*
**Row 1 (RS)**: *K2, p2; repeat from \* to end.
**Row 2 (WS)**: *K2, p2; repeat from \* to end.
Repeat Rows 1-2.

### Wrap and Turn (German Short Rows)
When working short rows in this pattern, use German short rows for minimal visibility:
**On a knit stitch**: Bring yarn to front, slip next st purlwise, bring yarn over needle to back and pull down firmly (creating a "double stitch"), turn work.
**On a purl stitch**: Bring yarn to back, slip next st purlwise, bring yarn over needle to front and pull down firmly, turn work.
**Working the wrap**: Knit or purl both legs of the double stitch together.

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### MOCK NECK

Using 3.5mm circular needle (40cm), **CO 88 (96, 104, 112, 120) sts**. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place BOR marker.

*Stitch count check: 88 ÷ 4 = 22 ✓ (88, 96, 104, 112, 120 all divisible by 4)*

**Rounds 1-22**: Work in 2×2 rib (k2, p2) around.

Mock neck measures approximately 7.5cm / 3".

**Next round**: Change to 4mm circular needle (40cm). Work 1 round in rib pattern.

Do not break yarn. The mock neck is complete.

---

### BACK SADDLE

The saddle extensions are worked flat across the centre back stitches.

**Setup**: Work in pattern across first 12 sts, **turn** (leaving remaining stitches unworked).

You are now working flat, back and forth, on these 12 sts only.

**Row 1 (WS)**: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, work in rib pattern to end (k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1). *[12 sts]*

**Row 2 (RS)**: Slip 1 purlwise wyib, work in rib pattern to end.

**Rows 3-54 (56, 60, 64, 66)**: Repeat Rows 1-2.

*Saddle measures approximately 18 (19, 20, 21, 22) cm / 7 (7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.75)".*

**MATH CHECK**:
- 54 rows ÷ 30 rows/10cm × 10 = 18cm ✓
- 56 rows ÷ 30 × 10 = 18.7cm ≈ 19cm ✓
- 60 rows ÷ 30 × 10 = 20cm ✓
- 64 rows ÷ 30 × 10 = 21.3cm ≈ 21cm ✓
- 66 rows ÷ 30 × 10 = 22cm ✓

Place these 12 saddle sts on waste yarn or holder. Break yarn, leaving a 20cm tail.

---

### SHOULDERS AND FRONT SADDLES

**Setup for Right Shoulder**:
Return to the mock neck stitches. With RS facing, join yarn to the 13th stitch (just after the back saddle).

**Pick up along right saddle edge**: Pick up and knit 27 (28, 30, 32, 33) sts evenly along the right edge of the back saddle. *[Pick up approximately 1 st in every other row]*

**Work across front neck**: Work next 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) sts from mock neck in established rib pattern.

**Pick up along left saddle edge**: Pick up and knit 27 (28, 30, 32, 33) sts evenly along the left edge of back saddle.

**Work to end of round**: Work remaining 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) sts from mock neck in rib pattern.

*Total on needle: 27+32+27+44 = 130 sts for XS*
*VERIFY: 27 (28, 30, 32, 33) + 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) + 27 (28, 30, 32, 33) + 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) = 130 (140, 152, 164, 174) sts ✓*

You have now picked up stitches around the saddle. The back saddle stitches remain on hold.

**Begin Right Saddle Extension**:
These 12 sts will be worked back and forth to create the saddle that sits atop the right shoulder.

**Next row (RS)**: Work 59 (64, 69, 74, 79) sts in pattern, turn. Leave remaining sts unworked.

**Saddle Setup Row (WS)**: Work 12 sts in rib pattern, turn.

**Saddle Row 1 (RS)**: Slip 1 purlwise wyib, work 10 sts in rib, ssk (using last saddle st and next shoulder st), turn. *[12 sts in saddle panel]*

**Saddle Row 2 (WS)**: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, work 10 sts in rib, p2tog (using last saddle st and next shoulder st), turn. *[12 sts in saddle panel]*

**Repeat Saddle Rows 1-2** another 26 (27, 29, 31, 32) times.

*All right shoulder sts have been consumed. 54 (56, 60, 64, 66) saddle rows worked, matching back saddle length.*

Place these 12 right saddle sts on waste yarn. Break yarn.

**Left Saddle Extension**:
With RS facing, join yarn to remaining stitches at left front neck.

**Setup row (RS)**: Work 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) sts in pattern, turn.

**Saddle Setup Row (WS)**: Work 12 sts in rib pattern, turn.

**Saddle Row 1 (RS)**: Slip 1 purlwise wyib, work 10 sts in rib, ssk (using last saddle st and next shoulder st), turn.

**Saddle Row 2 (WS)**: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, work