purlJam

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# **PERCIVAL THE PENGUIN**
### *A 30cm (12-inch) Hand-Knitted Penguin Toy in Full Gentleman's Attire*

---

## DESCRIPTION

Meet Percival — a distinguished 30cm (12-inch) stuffed penguin, impeccably dressed in his grey tailcoat, bib-front shirt, baggy trousers, and top hat. The penguin body is worked in classic black and white, while all costume pieces are knitted in grey. Every piece is knitted flat on two needles and seamed, making this a perfect advanced project for knitters who enjoy intricate assembly and fine detail work. Bamboo cotton yarn gives Percival a lovely drape and a smooth, firm fabric ideal for a toy that will be handled and admired.

> ⚠️ **Safety Note**: This toy contains small pieces (beak, hat brim). It is intended as a decorative toy or gift for adults and children aged 14+. If making for a young child, omit or securely fasten all small pieces and use safety eyes rated for toys.

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
| Colour | Amount | Label |
|---|---|---|
| Black (MC) | 120m (131 yds) | Body back, wings, tailcoat back |
| White (CC1) | 60m (66 yds) | Body front tummy panel |
| Grey (CC2) | 180m (197 yds) | All costume pieces |
| Orange or yellow (CC3) | 10m (11 yds) | Beak and feet |

**Yarn Weight**: DK (8-ply)
**Fibre**: Bamboo cotton blend (recommended: any DK bamboo-cotton blend, e.g., approximately 200m/100g)
**Approximate total yardage**: 370m (405 yds) across all colours

### Needles
- 3.75mm (UK size 9 / US size 5) straight bamboo needles — two needles, for knitting flat
- A blunt-ended tapestry needle for seaming and duplicate stitch

### Notions
- Polyester toy stuffing (approx. 80g / 3oz)
- Stitch markers (4)
- Row counter (recommended)
- Small amount of black DK yarn for eyes (or 2 × 10mm safety eyes)
- Pins for blocking and assembly
- Sewing needle and grey thread (for securing costume)

---

## TENSION (GAUGE)

**22 sts × 30 rows = 10cm × 10cm (4in × 4in) in stocking stitch on 3.75mm needles, unblocked.**

> **Please swatch before beginning.** Bamboo cotton knits up differently from pure wool. If your tension is too loose, go down to 3.5mm needles. If too tight, go up to 4mm needles. The finished height of the toy is entirely dependent on achieving this tension.

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | cm | inches |
|---|---|---|
| Total height (foot to hat tip) | 30cm | 12in |
| Body height (foot to neck join) | 18cm | 7in |
| Body width (at widest point) | 12cm | 4.75in |
| Head circumference | 22cm | 8.75in |
| Head height | 7cm | 2.75in |

---

## DIFFICULTY LEVEL
**Advanced** — involves shaping, seaming, multiple small pieces, and costume construction.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| st st | stocking stitch (k on RS, p on WS) |
| g st | garter stitch (k every row) |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| M1L | make 1 left (pick up bar between sts, knit through back loop) |
| M1R | make 1 right (pick up bar between sts, knit through front loop) |
| kfb | knit into front and back of stitch (increase) |
| CO | cast on |
| BO | bind off (cast off) |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| rep | repeat |
| rem | remaining |
| beg | beginning |
| approx | approximately |
| cont | continue |
| patt | pattern |
| WY | waste yarn |
| [ ] | work instructions within brackets as directed |

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction order**: Body Back → Body Front → Head (2 pieces) → Wings (×2) → Feet (×2) → Beak → Assemble body → Then knit all costume pieces to fit.
2. **Flat knitting**: All pieces are knitted flat (back and forth) on two straight needles, then seamed using mattress stitch.
3. **Bamboo cotton tips**: This yarn has minimal elasticity. Use a firm but not tight tension when seaming. A cable cast-on or long-tail cast-on works well. Avoid stretching the fabric during assembly.
4. **Colour changes**: When working the body front tummy panel, use the intarsia method (separate bobbins of colour) or simply follow the written stripe instructions. Avoid carrying yarn more than 3 stitches across the back.
5. **Seaming**: Mattress stitch is recommended for all vertical seams. Use backstitch for curved seams (head joins). Weave in all ends securely before stuffing.
6. **Stuffing**: Stuff firmly but not to the point of distorting the fabric. The penguin should be pleasingly plump but not stretched.
7. **Costume notes**: All costume pieces are knitted separately in CC2 (grey). They are designed to be slip-on/removable OR tacked down with a few invisible stitches. Instructions note where to tack.

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

---

### SECTION 1: THE PENGUIN BODY

---

#### 1A: BODY BACK
*Worked in MC (black), flat.*

**CO 26 sts** using long-tail cast-on.

**Rows 1–6**: [k1, p1] to end. *(Rib base — 6 rows)*

**Row 7 (RS)**: Knit across. **[26 sts]**
**Row 8 (WS)**: Purl across.

**Begin body shaping:**

**Rows 9–20**: Work in st st, ending with a WS row. *(12 rows straight — approx 4cm / 1.5in from rib)*

**Row 21 (RS — increase row)**: k1, M1R, k to last st, M1L, k1. **[28 sts]**
**Row 22**: Purl.

**Rows 23–30**: Work in st st. *(8 rows straight)*

**Row 31 (RS — increase row)**: k1, M1R, k to last st, M1L, k1. **[30 sts]**
**Row 32**: Purl.

**Rows 33–46**: Work in st st. *(14 rows straight — this is the widest part of the body)*

**Begin shoulder/neck shaping — decrease rows:**

**Row 47 (RS)**: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[28 sts]**
**Row 48**: Purl.
**Row 49 (RS)**: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[26 sts]**
**Row 50**: Purl.
**Row 51 (RS)**: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[24 sts]**
**Row 52**: Purl.
**Row 53 (RS)**: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[22 sts]**
**Row 54**: Purl.

**BO all 22 sts** loosely. *(Total rows: 54 — approx 18cm / 7in)*

> **Inline check**: CO 26 → +2 (Row 21) = 28 → +2 (Row 31) = 30 → −2 (Row 47) = 28 → −2 (Row 49) = 26 → −2 (Row 51) = 24 → −2 (Row 53) = 22. ✅ BO at 22 sts.

---

#### 1B: BODY FRONT (TUMMY PANEL)
*Worked in white (CC1) centre panel with black (MC) side columns, flat.*

The front is worked with a white centre panel to create the tummy, using simple intarsia. The white panel begins after the rib.

**Setup**: Using MC (black), CO 26 sts.

**Rows 1–6**: [k1, p1] to end. *(Rib base — matches back)*

**Row 7 (RS — begin tummy panel)**: Using MC, k5; join CC1 (white), k16; join second ball of MC, k5.
**Row 8 (WS)**: MC, p5; CC1, p16; MC, p5.

> **Intarsia note**: Twist yarns at each colour join on every row to avoid holes.

Continue as set, keeping MC on 5 sts each side and CC1 on 16 centre sts, while working the same body shaping as the back:

**Rows 9–20**: Work in st st with colour panels as set. *(12 rows straight)*

**Row 21 (RS — increase)**: MC: k1, M1R, k4; CC1: k16; MC: k4, M1L, k1. **[28 sts — 6 MC each side, 16 CC1 centre]**
**Row 22**: Purl as set.

**Rows 23–30**: Work in st st as set.

**Row 31 (RS — increase)**: MC: k1, M1R, k5; CC1: k16; MC: k5, M1L, k1. **[30 sts — 7 MC each side, 16 CC1 centre]**
**Row 32**: Purl as set.

**Rows 33–46**: Work in st st as set.

**Row 47 (RS — decrease)**: MC: k1, ssk, k4; CC1: k16; MC: k4, k2tog, k1. **[28 sts — 6 each side]**
**Row 48**: Purl as set.
**Row 49 (RS — decrease)**: MC: k1, ssk, k3; CC1: k16; MC: k3, k2tog, k1. **[26 sts — 5 each side]**
**Row 50**: Purl as set.
**Row 51 (RS — decrease)**: MC: k1, ssk, k2; CC1: k16; MC: k2, k2tog, k1. **[24 sts — 4 each side]**
**Row 52**: Purl as set.
**Row 53 (RS — decrease)**: MC: k1, ssk, k1; CC1: k16; MC: k1, k2tog, k1. **[22 sts — 3 each side, 16 centre]**
**Row 54**: Purl as set.

**BO all 22 sts** in colour sequence.

> **Inline check**: All shaping mirrors the back exactly. BO at 22 sts. ✅

---

#### 1C: HEAD
*The head is a simple rounded oval, worked in two identical pieces and seamed. MC (black) for back/top; CC1 (white) for face front.*

**HEAD BACK (make 1 — MC/black):**

**CO 10 sts.**

**Row 1 (RS)**: [kfb] across. **[20 sts]**
**Row 2**: Purl.
**Row 3**: [k1, kfb] to end. **[30 sts]**
**Row 4**: Purl.
**Row 5**: [k2, kfb] to end. **[40 sts]**
**Row 6**: Purl.

**Rows 7–20**: Work in st st. *(14 rows straight — head depth)*

**Begin head decrease:**
**Row 21**: [k2, k2tog] to end. **[30 sts]**
**Row 22**: Purl.
**Row 23**: [k1, k2tog] to end. **[20 sts]**
**Row 24**: Purl.
**Row 25**: [k2tog] to end. **[10 sts]**

Cut yarn, leaving a 30cm tail. Thread through remaining 10 sts, draw up tight, and fasten off.

> **Inline check**: 10 → 20 → 30 → 40 → [st st] → 30 → 20 → 10. ✅ Closed at top.

---

**HEAD FRONT (make 1 — face panel):**

The face is a white oval panel set onto a black head front.

**CO 10 sts in MC (black).**

**Row 1 (RS)**: [kfb] across. **[20 sts]**
**Row 2**: Purl.
**Row 3**: [k1, kfb] to end. **[30 sts]**
**Row 4**: Purl.
**Row 5**: [k2, kfb] to end. **[40 sts]**
**Row 6**: Purl.

**Row 7 (RS — begin face panel)**: MC: k8; join CC1 (white): k24; MC: k8.
**Row 8**: MC: p8; CC1: p24; MC: p8.

**Rows 9–20**: Maintain face panel as set, intarsia method.

**Row 21 (RS — decrease)**: MC: ssk, k6; CC1: k6, [k2, k2tog] ×3, k6; MC: k6, k2tog.

> *This row is worked keeping decreases within the colour sections for neatness. Adjust as follows:*

Work all decreases evenly across the row as for the back head:

**Row 21**: [k2, k2tog] to end. **[30 sts]**
*Continue in MC only from this row — the face panel is on the lower section, now naturally completed.*
**Row 22**: Purl.
**Row 23**: [k1, k2tog] to end. **[20 sts]**
**Row 24**: Purl.
**Row 25**: [k2tog] to end. **[10 sts]**

Cut yarn, draw through sts, fasten off.

---

### SECTION 2: WINGS

*Make 2. Worked in MC (black), flat.*

**CO 6 sts.**

**Row 1 (RS)**: [kfb] across. **[12 sts]**
**Row 2**: Purl.
**Row 3**: k1, M1R, k to last st, M1L, k1. **[14 sts]**
**Row 4**: Purl.
**Row 5**: k1, M1R, k to last st, M1L, k1. **[16 sts]**
**Row 6**: Purl.

**Rows 7–22**: Work in st st. *(16 rows straight — approx 5.5cm / 2.25in)*

**Row 23 (RS)**: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[14 sts]**
**Row 24**: Purl.
**Row 25 (RS)**: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[12 sts]**
**Row 26**: Purl.
**Row 27 (RS)**: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[10 sts]**
**Row 28**: Purl.
**Row 29 (RS)**: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[8 sts]**
**Row 30**: Purl.
**Row 31 (RS)**: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[6 sts]**

**BO 6 sts.**

Make a second identical wing.

> **Inline check**: 6 → 12 (Row 1) → 14 → 16 → [st st 16 rows] → 14 → 12 → 10 → 8 → 6. BO ✅

*Note: Each wing is knitted as a single flat piece and folded/seamed along the sides. Stuff lightly to give dimension.*

---

### SECTION 3: FEET

*Make 2. Worked in CC3 (orange/yellow), flat.*

**CO 16 sts.**

**Rows 1–2**: [k1, p1] to end. *(Garter-rib edge)*
**Row 3 (RS)**: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1. **[12 sts]**

Wait — let's work this more clearly as a simple rounded foot:

**CO 16 sts.**
**Row 1 (WS)**: Purl.
**Row 2 (RS)**: [kfb, k6, kfb] twice. **[20 sts]**
**Row 3**: Purl.
**Row 4**: [kfb, k8, kfb] twice. **[24 sts]**
**Rows 5–8**: Work in st st.
**Row 9 (RS — toe shaping)**: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k2, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. **[20 sts]**
**Row 10**: Purl.
**Row 11 (RS)**: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k2, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. **[16 sts]**
**Row 12**: Purl.
**Row 13**: [k2tog] to end. **[8 sts]**

Cut yarn, draw through sts, fasten off. Seam and stuff lightly.

> **Inline check**: 16 → 20 → 24 → [4 rows st st] → 20 → 16 → 8. ✅

Make a second identical foot.

---

### SECTION 4: BEAK

*Worked in CC3 (orange/yellow), flat. Small triangle.*

**CO 10 sts.**
**Row 1 (WS)**: Purl.
**Row 2 (RS)**: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. **[8 sts]**
**Row 3**: Purl.
**Row 4**: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. **[6 sts]**
**Row 5**: Purl.
**Row 6**: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1. **[4 sts]**
**Row 7**: Purl.
**Row 8**: ssk, k2tog. **[2 sts]**
**Row 9**: p2tog. **[1 st]**

Fasten off. Fold the beak in half widthwise (it will form a diamond/triangle when folded), seam, and stuff very lightly.

---

## BODY ASSEMBLY

Follow this order carefully:

**Step 1 — Seam body**: Place Body Back and Body Front with right sides together. Using mattress stitch in matching yarn, seam up both side seams from the cast-on edge (bottom) to the bind-off edge (top/neck), leaving the top neck edge open and leaving a 4cm (1.5in) gap at the bottom for stuffing.

**Step 2 — Bottom seam**: Seam across the bottom cast-on edge, leaving the 4cm gap.

**Step 3 — Stuff the body**: Through the gap, insert toy stuffing, packing firmly and evenly. Close the gap with mattress stitch.

**Step 4 — Seam the head**: Place the two head pieces with right sides together. Seam around the entire perimeter, leaving a 4cm (1.5in) gap at the lower edge (where it will meet the neck). Stuff firmly. Leave gap open for now.

**Step 5 — Attach head to body**: Pin the head to the top of the body (neck edge), ensuring the white face is at the front. Using backstitch, sew the head securely to the neck opening, adding a little extra stuffing to the neck join if needed to keep the head upright.

**Step 6 — Attach wings**: Fold each wing in half along its length, right sides together. Seam the two long edges, leaving the cast-on edge open. Turn right side out. Stuff lightly. Pin each wing to the upper sides of the body, approximately level with Rows 30–40 of the body. Sew firmly in place using backstitch all around the open edge.

**Step 7 — Attach feet**: Attach feet to the base of the body, toes pointing outward, using backstitch.

**Step 8 — Attach beak**: Position the beak at the centre of the white face panel, approximately at the midpoint of the head. Sew in place securely using matching yarn.

**Step 9 — Eyes**: Using black DK yarn, embroider two eyes above the beak using satin stitch (approx 6–8 sts in a circle, approx 1.5cm apart). Alternatively, attach safety eyes at this position — insert through the fabric before fully closing the head seam in Step 4.

---

## SECTION 5: COSTUME PIECES

*All worked in CC2 (grey), flat on 3.75mm needles.*

> **Fitting note**: The costume dimensions below are designed to fit the assembled body as specified. Before knitting costume pieces, confirm your body width at the widest point is 12cm (4.75in). Adjust stitch counts proportionally if yours differs (every 2 sts ≈ 1cm at this tension).

---

### 5A: BIB-FRONT SHIRT

The bib-front shirt is worked in two pieces: a Back panel and a Bib Front. The bib sits on the chest, and the back sits behind, joined at the shoulders with a simple seam.

**SHIRT BACK:**

**CO 26 sts in CC2 (grey).**
**Rows 1–4**: [k1, p1] to end. *(Rib hem)*
**Rows 5–24**: Work in st st. *(20 rows — approx 6.5cm / 2.5in body coverage)*
**Row 25 (RS — shoulder shaping)**: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[24 sts]**
**Row 26**: Purl.
**Row 27**: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[22 sts]**
**Row 28**: Purl.
**BO 22 sts** loosely.

**SHIRT BIB FRONT:**
The bib front has a decorative panel in the centre with small knitted 'button' detail at the top.

**CO 26 sts in CC2 (grey).**
**Rows 1–4**: [k1, p1] to end. *(Rib hem)*
**Rows 5–10**: Work in st st.
**Row 11 (RS — divide for bib)**: k8, BO 10 sts, k8. **[8 sts each side]**

*Work left front:*
**Rows 12–24**: Work on left 8 sts in st st. Leave sts on holder.

*Reattach yarn to right front:*
**Rows 12–24**: Work on right 8 sts in st st.

**BO all sts.** The centre 10 sts bound off in Row 11 form the bib opening, which reveals the penguin's white tummy.

**BIB INSERT (optional decorative bib panel):**

CO 12 sts in CC1 (white — for shirt-front frill) or CC2 (grey — for plain bib):
**Rows 1–12**: Work in g st.
**BO.** Sew into centre bib opening.

> **Assembly tip**: Slip the shirt body over Percival's body. Seam the shoulder sections (back to front top edges) at the top of each side. Leave the side seams open, or stitch partway for a snug fit.

---

### 5B: BAGGY TROUSERS

The trousers are worked as two separate legs, then joined at the crotch and the waistband added.

**LEFT LEG:**

**CO 22 sts in CC2 (grey).**
**Rows 1–3**: [k1, p1] to end. *(Cuff rib)*
**Rows 4–20**: Work in st st. *(17 rows — approx 5.5cm / 2.25in leg)*
**Row 21 (RS)**: k1, M1R, k to last st, M1L, k1. **[24 sts]**
**Rows 22–28**: Work in st st.

Leave sts on a spare needle or holder. Cut yarn.

**RIGHT LEG:**

Work as Left Leg until Row 28. **[24 sts]** Do not cut yarn.

**JOIN LEGS:**

**Row 29 (RS — joining row)**: Across right leg: k24; then, with same needle, k24 across left leg (from holder). **[48 sts total]**
**Row 30**: Purl across all 48 sts.

**Rows 31–36**: Work in st st. *(6 rows — approx 2cm / 0.75in above crotch)*

**Waistband:**
**Rows 37–40**: [k1, p1] to end. *(Rib waistband)*
**BO in rib.**

**Crotch seam**: Fold along the joining row. Seam the short centre seam between the legs (the crotch gap, approx 4 rows on each side) to close.

> **Baggy trouser shaping**: Because the fabric is worked without significant decrease, the trousers will naturally sit with a gathered, baggy quality, especially with bamboo cotton's drape.

**Trouser Braces/Straps (optional):**
Cast on 4 sts in CC2. Work in g st for 18cm (7in). BO. Make two. Cross over the back and tack to the waistband at back and button front.

---

### 5C: TAILCOAT

The tailcoat is worked in three pieces: Left Front, Right Front, and Back (with tail).

**TAILCOAT BACK (with tail):**

The tailcoat back has a deep 'V' cut at the hem to create the classic swallow tail.

**CO 30 sts in CC2 (grey).**

**Row 1 (WS)**: Purl.
**Rows 2–6**: Work in st st.

*Begin tail split:*
**Row 7 (RS)**: k1, ssk, k11, BO 2 sts, k11, k2tog, k1. **[Two sections of 13 sts each, with 2 sts bound off at centre]**

*Work Left Tail:*
**Row 8 (WS)**: p13. Attach yarn to right tail and work separately.

**LEFT TAIL:**
**Rows 8–16**: Work in st st on 13 sts.
**Row 17**: k1, ssk, k to end. **[12 sts]**
**Row 19**: k1, ssk, k to end. **[11 sts]**
**Row 21**: k1, ssk, k to end. **[10 sts]**
Leave on holder.

**RIGHT TAIL:**
**Rows 8–16**: Work in st st on 13 sts.
**Row 17**: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[12 sts]**
**Row 19**: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[11 sts]**
**Row 21**: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[10 sts]**
Leave on holder.

*Rejoin both tails:*
**Row 22 (RS)**: k10 right tail, CO 4 sts over centre gap, k10 left tail. **[24 sts]**
**Row 23**: Purl.
**Rows 24–34**: Work in st st. *(Upper back body — approx 3.5cm / 1.4in)*
**Row 35 (RS — neck shaping)**: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[22 sts]**
**Row 36**: Purl.
**BO 22 sts.**

> **Inline check**: CO 30 → split at Row 7 → 13 sts each tail → decrease to 10 each → rejoin at Row 22: 10 + 4 + 10 = 24 → decrease to 22 → BO. ✅

**TAILCOAT FRONTS (make 2, mirror images):**

**RIGHT FRONT:**

**CO 14 sts in CC2.**
**Row 1 (WS)**: Purl.
**Rows 2–34**: Work in st st.
**Row 35 (RS — lapel shaping)**: k1, ssk, k to end. **[13 sts]**
**Row 36**: BO 13 sts.

**LEFT FRONT:**

**CO 14 sts in CC2.**
**Row 1 (WS)**: Purl.
**Rows 2–34**: Work in st st.
**Row 35 (RS — lapel shaping)**: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[13 sts]**
**Row 36**: BO 13 sts.

**TAILCOAT ASSEMBLY:**
1. Seam the two front panels to the back at the shoulder/top edges (Row 35–36 of fronts to BO edge of back). ✅
2. Leave side seams open, or seam partway from underarm down.
3. The lapels fold back naturally at the front.
4. Work a single row of g st along all front and hem edges in CC2 for a neat finish (pick up and knit along the edge, then BO).

---

### 5D: TOP HAT

The hat is worked in CC2 (grey) and sits on top of the head.

**HAT BRIM:**

**CO 48 sts in CC2.**
**Rows 1–4**: Work in g st. *(4 rows — creates stiff brim)*
**Row 5 (RS — decrease for crown join)**: [k2tog, k2] to end. **[36 sts]**
**Row 6**: Purl.

> **Inline check**: 48 ÷ 4 = 12 repeats of [k2tog, k2]; 12 × 3 = 36. ✅

**HAT CROWN:**

Continue on 36 sts:
**Rows 7–28**: Work in st st. *(22 rows — approx 7.5cm / 3in tall crown)*

**Row 29 (RS — top shaping)**: [k2, k2tog] to end. **[27 sts]**
**Row 30**: Purl.
**Row 31**: [k1, k2tog] to end. **[18 sts]**
**Row 32**: Purl.
**Row 33**: [k2tog] to end. **[9 sts]**

Cut yarn. Draw through remaining 9 sts. Fasten off.

Seam the hat along the back vertical seam using mattress stitch in CC2. The brim folds outward naturally. Stiffen the brim with a small ring of craft wire if desired (optional, not suitable for young children).

> **Inline check**: 36 → 27 → 18 → 9. ✅

**HAT BAND (optional detail):**
Using CC1 (white) or a contrast ribbon, pick up 36 sts around the base of the crown (just above the brim join). Work 2 rows in g st. BO. Alternatively, tie a narrow ribbon around this position.

---

## FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS

### Weaving in Ends
Before assembly of each piece, weave in all yarn ends on the wrong side. Use a tapestry needle to work each end through at least 5 sts in two directions.

### Blocking
Bamboo cotton benefits from light blocking. Wet each piece, press gently in a towel, pin flat to measurements on a foam mat, and allow to dry fully before assembly. Do not use a hot iron directly; steam blocking is acceptable.

### Final Assembly Checklist

| Step | Action | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Body seamed and stuffed | ☐ |
| 2 | Head seamed and stuffed | ☐ |
| 3 | Head attached to body | ☐ |
| 4 | Wings seamed, stuffed, and attached | ☐ |
| 5 | Feet seamed, stuffed, and attached | ☐ |
| 6 | Beak attached | ☐ |
| 7 | Eyes embroidered or placed | ☐ |
| 8 | Shirt assembled and dressed on body | ☐ |
| 9 | Trousers seamed and dressed on body | ☐ |
| 10 | Tailcoat assembled and dressed on body | ☐ |
| 11 | Top hat seamed and placed on head | ☐ |
| 12 | All ends woven in | ☐ |
| 13 | Costume tacked in place (optional) | ☐ |

### Costume Dressing Notes
Dress Percival in the following order:
1. **Shirt first** — slip over the body.
2. **Trousers** — pull up over the feet.
3. **Tailcoat** — drape and seam at shoulders if not already done.
4. **Hat** — place on head and tack with 3–4 sts through the brim to the head.

If you wish the costume to be permanent, tack each garment piece with a few invisible stitches in matching grey thread.

---

## YARN YARDAGE SUMMARY

| Colour | Pieces | Approx. Yardage |
|---|---|---|
| MC — Black | Body back, head back, wings | 120m (131 yds) |
| CC1 — White | Body front panel, head front face | 60m (66 yds) |
| CC2 — Grey | All costume (shirt, trousers, tailcoat, hat) | 180m (197 yds) |
| CC3 — Orange/Yellow | Beak, feet | 10m (11 yds) |
| **TOTAL** | | **370m (405 yds)** |

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## DESIGNER'S NOTES

Percival is a labour of love — a toy that rewards patience and precision. The bamboo cotton will give him a beautifully smooth finish and a slight lustre that brings his costume to life. If you would like to customise him further, consider:
- Adding a tiny knitted bow tie or cravat in red or navy.
- Embroidering a pocket square on the tailcoat breast pocket.
- Knitting miniature spats in white to sit over the feet.

We hope Percival brings as much joy to the recipient as he brings to the making.

*Happy knitting!* 🐧🎩

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*Pattern © Original Design. For personal use only.*