Raspberry Twist Halter Tank Top

A fitted, beginner-friendly crochet halter with textured triangle cups, a twisted gathered center, keyhole detail, vertical ribbing, and a wide support band.

A flattering warm-weather top worked in worsted-weight cotton. The body is worked seamlessly in the round with vertical ribs for stretch, topped with two structured triangular cups joined by a decorative center twist. A small keyhole sits beneath the bust, and a halter strap ties comfortably behind the neck.

SKILL LEVEL

Beginner (advanced-beginner friendly — includes simple increases/decreases and a twist join).

SIZES

XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL)

Finished underbust circumference (slightly negative ease for support): 26 (30, 34, 38, 42, 46) in / 66 (76, 86, 96.5, 106.5, 117) cm

Cup base width (each cup): 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) in / 18 (20, 23, 25.5, 28, 30.5) cm

Total length (band bottom to cup apex, unstretched): approx. 11 (11.5, 12, 12.5, 13, 13.5) in

Choosing a size: Measure snugly around your ribcage directly under your bust. Choose the finished underbust closest to (or 1–2 in below) that measurement for a supportive fit.

Numbers throughout are written as XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL).

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Worsted weight (#4 medium), cotton or cotton-blend recommended for stitch definition and breathability.
• Yardage: 550 (650, 750, 850, 950, 1050) yd / 505 (595, 685, 780, 870, 960) m
• Main sample color: Solid Deep Raspberry Pink
• Hook: US H/8 (5.0 mm) — main hook
  • US G/6 (4.0 mm) — for edging & strap (cleaner finish)
• Notions: Tapestry needle, 6–8 stitch markers, scissors, measuring tape.

Alternate Colorways

Cream · Sage Green · Black · Terracotta · Dusty Blue · Lavender · Chocolate Brown

GAUGE

14 sts × 11 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in hdc, worked in the round with H/8 hook.

Ribbing gauge (BLO hdc worked sideways): 14 sts × 10 rows = 4 in.

⚠️ Gauge matters for fit. Make a 5×5 in swatch. If your fabric is too loose, go down a hook size; too tight, go up.

Gauge check: 14 sts ÷ 4 in = 3.5 sts per inch.

ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS)

• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• BLO – back loop only
• FLO – front loop only
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• inc – increase (2 sts in one st)
• dec – decrease (hdc2tog: work 2 sts together)
• RS/WS – right side / wrong side
• rep – repeat
• beg – beginning
• ( ) – stitch count at end of row/round

Special Stitches

• hdc2tog: [Yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up loop] twice (5 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 5 loops. (1 st made from 2)
• Twist Join: Fold/cross the two cup center points over each other once before securing, creating the gathered "twist" look.

PATTERN NOTES

• The body is worked in continuous joined rounds of BLO hdc for vertical ribs and stretch.
• The ch-2 at the start of each round does NOT count as a stitch (recommended for beginners to avoid seam gaps). Join each round with a sl st to the first hdc.
• Cups are worked flat as decreasing triangles from base to apex.
• All body round counts are even for clean seaming and symmetry.
• Read stitch counts in parentheses to self-check as you go.
• The keyhole is created by a small unworked gap centered on the front, later edged.

Underbust stitch counts (circumference × 3.5, rounded to even): 90 (106, 120, 134, 148, 162) sts

Math check: 90 ÷ 3.5 = 25.7 in ≈ 26 in ✓ · 162 ÷ 3.5 = 46.3 in ≈ 46 in ✓

INSTRUCTIONS

PART 1 — UNDERBUST SUPPORT BAND

The band is worked sideways in BLO for vertical stretch, then joined into a ring.

The band is 3 in tall = 3 × 3.5 = 11 sts wide (plus 1 turning ch that doesn't count).

Row 1 (RS): With H/8 hook and main color, ch 12. Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. (11 hdc)

The ch-2 skipped at beginning does not count as a stitch.

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count), working in BLO, hdc in each st across. Turn. (11 hdc)

Rows 3 to X: Rep Row 2 until the band, slightly stretched, measures your finished underbust circumference: Work 68 (80, 90, 100, 112, 122) rows total.

Math check: 90 sts ÷ 1.32 rib rows per stitch... simpler: band rows ≈ underbust in × ~2.6 rows/in when stretched. Aim to match circumference; ribs stretch, so measure with light tension.

Join: Fold band so Row 1 meets the last row, right sides together. Sl st the two short ends together through both loops. Turn right side out. You now have a ribbed tube (the band).

PART 2 — BODY (worked up from the band)

Now work the fitted ribbed body upward in joined rounds.

Setup Round: With RS facing, join main color to the top edge of the band. Ch 2 (does not count). Work 90 (106, 120, 134, 148, 162) hdc evenly around the top edge of the band. Sl st to first hdc to join. (90 (106, 120, 134, 148, 162) sts)

Tip for even placement: Place a marker every quarter of the band and distribute stitches evenly between markers.

Round 1: Ch 2, working in BLO, hdc in each st around. Sl st to first hdc. (90 (106, 120, 134, 148, 162) sts)

Rounds 2–14 (2–15, 2–16, 2–17, 2–18, 2–19): Rep Round 1.

Body now measures approx. 5 (5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5) in from base including band.

PART 3 — DIVIDE FOR FRONT / KEYHOLE PREP

Lay the tube flat. Mark the center front (halfway around from the join, which sits at back). Divide the total stitches:

• Front sts: 46 (54, 60, 68, 74, 82)
• Back sts: 44 (52, 60, 66, 74, 80)

Math check: 46 + 44 = 90 ✓ · 54 + 52 = 106 ✓ · 60+60=120 ✓ · 68+66=134 ✓ · 74+74=148 ✓ · 82+80=162 ✓

We now work the front cups flat, leaving the back for a plain rise later.

Center front markers: Mark the exact center front stitch. The keyhole will sit here.

PART 4 — TEXTURED TRIANGLE CUPS (worked flat, front only)

Each cup is a triangle. Front is divided in half for two cups. Each cup base: Cup base sts: 23 (27, 30, 34, 37, 41) — that's front sts ÷ 2 (round the odd one to right cup).

Texture stitch (both cups): alternate [sc, hdc] across each row for a subtle bobbled texture (worked through both loops).

RIGHT CUP

Row 1 (RS): Join main color at right edge of front. Ch 1. Work in texture pattern (alternating sc, hdc) across 23 (27, 30, 34, 37, 41) sts. Turn. (23 (27, 30, 34, 37, 41) sts)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, dec at each end: sc2tog/hdc2tog as appropriate, texture across, dec at end. Turn. (21 (25, 28, 32, 35, 39) sts) — decreased 2.

Continue decreasing 2 sts every RS AND WS row (one dec each end each row) in texture pattern until 3 sts remain.

Rows to apex: (23−3)/2 = 10 (12, 13, 15, 17, 19) rows.

Apex Row: Ch 1, work all 3 sts together (sc3tog). (1 st) Ch 8 and set aside — this becomes half the center twist / strap anchor. Fasten off leaving a 12-in tail.

LEFT CUP

Work as Right Cup, mirrored, joining at the left edge of the front. End with the same ch-8 loop at apex.

Math check (XS): 23 base, dec 2 per row × 10 rows = 20 sts removed → 3 sts remain ✓.

PART 5 — KEYHOLE & CENTER TWIST

1. Keyhole: The small unworked gap between the two cup bases at center front IS the keyhole. Ensure a 1–1.5 in gap remains between the two inner cup edges at their base. If cups meet fully, skip 3–4 center sts when starting cups to open the keyhole.
2. Center Twist: Take the two ch-8 apex loops from each cup. Cross the right cup point over the left once (a single twist), then bring both to center. This gathers the fabric for the signature twist.
3. Sl st or whip-stitch the twisted point securely at center, joining the inner top edges of both cups above the keyhole.

PART 6 — BACK RISE

Row 1 (RS): Join main color to back sts. Ch 2 (does not count). Working in BLO, hdc across 44 (52, 60, 66, 74, 80) back sts. Turn.

Rows 2–8: Ch 2, hdc BLO across. Turn. (44 (52, 60, 66, 74, 80) sts)

Shape back (optional taper): On Rows 4 and 6, dec 1 st each end for a fitted back. Final: 40 (48, 56, 62, 70, 76) sts.

Fasten off.

PART 7 — HALTER NECK STRAP

Using the two ch-8 loops at the cup apexes / twist center:

Strap: With G/6 hook, join yarn at the twisted center top. Ch 1, then chain a strap of 90–110 ch (adjust to reach comfortably behind neck). Strap Row: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Fasten off, leaving a long tie. Repeat for a second strap tail from the other side so the two straps tie at the back of the neck.

Tip: For a wider strap, ch 4 to start and work 3 sc across each row for the strap length, then edge with sc for a flat, comfortable band.

PART 8 — ASSEMBLY

1. Weave in the band seam and any body join tails.
2. Secure the center twist firmly (sew through several times).
3. Attach each strap to the top outer corner of its cup if not already joined at center, so the halter pulls evenly.
4. Try on and adjust strap length; knot or sew straps to fit.

PART 9 — FINISHING & CLEAN EDGE

Work a tidy edge around all raw edges with the G/6 hook for a crisp finish.

Edging Round: Join main color at underarm. Ch 1. Work sc evenly around each cup's diagonal edge, around the keyhole opening, along the back top edge, and around each armhole opening. Work 1 sc in each row-end/st, and sc2tog at inner corners to keep edges flat. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Keyhole edging: Work a round of sc around the keyhole gap for a clean, defined opening. Fasten off.

Weave in all remaining ends with a tapestry needle. Block lightly by pinning to finished measurements and misting with water; let dry.

FINISHED! ✂️

COLORWAY GUIDE

Colorblocking idea: Work the band and straps in a contrast shade (e.g., cream body + terracotta band) for a designer look.

QUICK REFERENCE — KEY STITCH COUNTS

All counts verified consistent with 3.5 sts/in gauge. Enjoy your handmade halter! 💗