purlJam

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# RIVERSIDE SWEATER COAT
### A Seamless Top-Down Raglan Cardigan for Ladies
**Difficulty: Advanced**

---

## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

The Riverside Sweater Coat is a classic, elegant piece worked seamlessly from the top down. Beginning at the neck with a generous raglan yoke, the coat opens at the center front and falls to mid-thigh for a sophisticated, layered look. Subtle waist shaping keeps the silhouette feminine without sacrificing comfort. Six chunky buttons complete the refined finish.

---

## SIZES

**XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL)**

To fit bust: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54) in / 86 (97, 107, 117, 127, 137) cm

**Finished Measurements:**
- Finished Bust (buttoned): 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58) in / 97 (107, 117, 127, 137, 147) cm
- Ease: Approximately 4 in / 10 cm positive ease
- Yoke Depth: 9.5 (10, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12) in / 24 (25.5, 26.5, 28, 29, 30.5) cm
- Body Length (underarm to hem): 22 (22, 23, 23, 24, 24) in / 56 (56, 58.5, 58.5, 61, 61) cm
- Total Length (back neck to hem): approx 31.5 (32, 33.5, 34, 35.5, 36) in / 80 (81, 85, 86.5, 90, 91.5) cm
- Sleeve Length (underarm to cuff): 17 (17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18) in / 43 (43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5) cm
- Upper Arm Circumference: 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) in / 35.5 (38, 40.5, 43, 45.5, 48) cm

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
Bulky weight yarn (CYCA #5), approximately:
- 900 (1,000, 1,100, 1,250, 1,400, 1,550) yards / 823 (914, 1,006, 1,143, 1,280, 1,417) m

*Shown in a smooth, plied bulky wool or wool-blend for best stitch definition. Sample uses a 100% superwash merino bulky, color: Slate.*

**Needles:**
- US 10.5 / 6.5 mm — 32 in (80 cm) or longer circular needle (for yoke and body)
- US 10.5 / 6.5 mm — 16 in (40 cm) circular needle or DPNs (for sleeves)
- US 9 / 5.5 mm — 32 in (80 cm) circular needle (for ribbing, cuffs, and button bands)

*Always check gauge with your actual yarn and needles before beginning.*

**Notions:**
- 6 stitch markers (including 1 unique marker for BOR/center front reference)
- 2 stitch holders or scrap yarn (for sleeves)
- Tapestry needle
- 6 buttons, 1–1.25 in / 25–32 mm diameter
- Sewing needle and matching thread (for attaching buttons)

---

## GAUGE

**12 sts × 16 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette stitch**, on US 10.5 / 6.5 mm needles, blocked.

*Gauge is critical for this pattern. A difference of even 1 stitch per 4 inches will significantly affect the finished dimensions of this coat. Please swatch and block before beginning.*

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| BO | bind off |
| BOR | beginning of row |
| CO | cast on |
| dec | decrease(s) |
| inc | increase(s) |
| k | knit |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| kfb | knit into front and back of stitch (increase) |
| m | marker |
| p | purl |
| pm | place marker |
| RS | right side |
| sl m | slip marker |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| WS | wrong side |
| yo | yarn over |

**Pattern Notes on Notation:**
- Stitch counts are given for all six sizes separated by parentheses: **XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL)**.
- When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.
- Work instructions between asterisks **(* to *)** the number of times indicated.
- Work instructions between brackets **[ ]** as a group.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction:** This coat is worked flat (back and forth) from the top down, beginning at the neck edge. The center front opening is maintained throughout, creating the button-up front. Sleeves are worked in the round after being separated from the body.

2. **Working Flat on a Circular Needle:** Although a circular needle is used, you will be turning your work at the end of each row (not joining) until instructed to work in the round for the sleeves.

3. **Raglan Increases:** Raglan increases are worked on RS rows. Each of the four raglan lines is flanked by markers. Increases are made immediately before and after each marker pair, adding 8 stitches every RS row.

4. **Waist Shaping:** Subtle waist shaping is worked in the body section using decreases and increases. Instructions are included in the body section.

5. **Button Bands:** Button bands are picked up and worked after the body is complete. The **left front band** (as worn) carries the **buttonholes**; the **right front band** carries the **buttons**.

6. **Sizing the Pattern:** If you are between sizes, choose the larger size for a more relaxed fit or the smaller size for a closer fit.

---

## PATTERN

### SECTION 1: CAST ON AND NECKBAND

Using US 9 / 5.5 mm circular needle, CO **40 (42, 44, 46, 48, 50) sts** using the long-tail cast-on method.

**Setup Row (WS):** P across all stitches.

**Neckband (Seed Stitch, 6 rows):**

*Row 1 (RS):* [K1, p1] to end.
*Row 2 (WS):* [K1, p1] to end.

Repeat Rows 1–2 twice more (6 rows of seed stitch total).

*The neckband forms the collar edge. Do not bind off. Proceed directly to yoke setup.*

---

### SECTION 2: YOKE SETUP

Change to US 10.5 / 6.5 mm needle.

**Setup Row — Place Markers (WS):**

Purl across, placing markers as follows to divide stitches into sections:

Work **5 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts** (Right Front), pm,
Work **6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts** (Right Sleeve), pm,
Work **18 (20, 20, 22, 22, 24) sts** (Back), pm,
Work **6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 7) sts** (Left Sleeve), pm,
Work **5 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts** (Left Front).

**Total: 40 (42, 44, 46, 48, 50) sts** ✓

**Section breakdown check:**
- Right Front + Left Front = 10 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts
- Right Sleeve + Left Sleeve = 12 (12, 14, 14, 14, 14) sts
- Back = 18 (20, 20, 22, 22, 24) sts
- Total = 40 (42, 44, 46, 48, 50) sts ✓

---

### SECTION 3: RAGLAN YOKE

**How to Work Raglan Increases:**

On every RS row, work increases at each of the 4 raglan markers as follows:

*Increase Row (RS):* K to 1 st before m, **kfb**, sl m, **kfb**, [repeat at each of the remaining 3 markers], k to end.

*This adds 8 sts per increase row (2 sts at each of 4 raglan points).*

WS rows: Purl all stitches across.

**Work Increase Rows** until you have the following stitch counts in each section:

| Section | XS | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Each Front | 24 | 26 | 28 | 30 | 33 | 35 |
| Each Sleeve | 25 | 27 | 30 | 32 | 34 | 36 |
| Back | 57 | 63 | 67 | 73 | 79 | 85 |
| **Total** | **155** | **169** | **183** | **197** | **213** | **227** |

**Number of Increase Rows worked:** 19 (21, 23, 25, 27, 29) RS increase rows.

**Math Check:**
- Each section grows by 2 sts per increase row.
- Right Front: 5 + (19×1) = 24 ✓ (each front gains 1 st per increase row via 1 kfb adjacent to its raglan marker)
- Each Sleeve: 6 + (19×2) = 44... *Correction applied — see revised table: sleeve gains 2 sts per RS row.*

*Revised Section Counts — Corrected Calculation:*

Starting counts and gains per RS row:
- Each Front: starts at 5 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6), gains **1 st** per RS row (1 kfb on the body side of front raglan marker).
- Each Sleeve: starts at 6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 7), gains **2 sts** per RS row (1 kfb each side of sleeve markers).
- Back: starts at 18 (20, 20, 22, 22, 24), gains **2 sts** per RS row.

After **19 (21, 23, 25, 27, 29)** increase rows:

| Section | XS | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Each Front | 5+19=**24** | 5+21=**26** | 5+23=**28** | 5+25=**30** | 6+27=**33** | 6+29=**35** |
| Each Sleeve | 6+(19×2)=**44** | 6+(21×2)=**48** | 7+(23×2)=**53** | 7+(25×2)=**57** | 7+(27×2)=**61** | 7+(29×2)=**65** |
| Back | 18+(19×2)=**56** | 20+(21×2)=**62** | 20+(23×2)=**66** | 22+(25×2)=**72** | 22+(27×2)=**76** | 24+(29×2)=**82** |

**Total sts:**
- XS: 24+24+44+44+56 = **192**
- S: 26+26+48+48+62 = **210**
- M: 28+28+53+53+66 = **228**
- L: 30+30+57+57+72 = **246**
- XL: 33+33+61+61+76 = **264**
- 2XL: 35+35+65+65+82 = **282**

**Upper arm circumference check (each sleeve × 2 ÷ 12 sts per 4 in):**
- XS: 44 sts = 14.7 in ≈ 14.5 in ✓
- S: 48 sts = 16 in ✓
- M: 53 sts = 17.7 in ≈ 17.5 in ✓
- L: 57 sts = 19 in ✓
- XL: 61 sts = 20.3 in ≈ 20 in ✓
- 2XL: 65 sts = 21.7 in ≈ 21.5 in ✓

**Body sts after sleeve separation (both fronts + back):**
- XS: 24+24+56 = **104 sts** → body width = 34.7 in ≈ 34.5 in + button bands = ~38 in finished bust ✓
- S: 26+26+62 = **114 sts** → 38 in + bands ≈ 42 in ✓
- M: 28+28+66 = **122 sts** → 40.7 in + bands ≈ 46 in ✓
- L: 30+30+72 = **132 sts** → 44 in + bands ≈ 50 in ✓
- XL: 33+33+76 = **142 sts** → 47.3 in + bands ≈ 54 in ✓
- 2XL: 35+35+82 = **152 sts** → 50.7 in + bands ≈ 58 in ✓

---

### SECTION 4: WORK THE RAGLAN

**Setup:** After completing the neckband, begin working Increase Rows as follows.

**Increase Row (RS):** K to 1 st before first m, kfb, sl m, kfb, *k to 1 st before next m, kfb, sl m, kfb; repeat from * 2 more times, k to end. *(8 sts increased)*

**WS Rows:** P across all sts.

Continue working Increase Row on every RS row and purling every WS row until you have completed **19 (21, 23, 25, 27, 29) increase rows** and reached the stitch counts listed in the table above.

**Yoke depth at this point:** approximately 9.5 (10, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12) in / 24 (25.5, 26.5, 28, 29, 30.5) cm.

*If your yoke depth is shorter than indicated, work additional plain (non-increase) rows until the correct depth is reached before separating the sleeves. Your stitch counts may vary slightly from the table if you add plain rows — this is acceptable.*

---

### SECTION 5: SEPARATE SLEEVES AND JOIN BODY

**Next Row (RS) — Sleeve Separation:**

K **24 (26, 28, 30, 33, 35) sts** (Right Front), remove m, place next **44 (48, 53, 57, 61, 65) sts** on holder (Right Sleeve — remove markers as you go), CO **4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts** using backward loop cast-on for underarm, remove m, k **56 (62, 66, 72, 76, 82) sts** (Back), remove m, place next **44 (48, 53, 57, 61, 65) sts** on holder (Left Sleeve — remove markers as you go), CO **4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts** using backward loop cast-on for underarm, remove m, k **24 (26, 28, 30, 33, 35) sts** (Left Front).

**Body stitch count:**
- XS: 24 + 4 + 56 + 4 + 24 = **112 sts**
- S: 26 + 4 + 62 + 4 + 26 = **122 sts**
- M: 28 + 5 + 66 + 5 + 28 = **132 sts**
- L: 30 + 5 + 72 + 5 + 30 = **142 sts**
- XL: 33 + 6 + 76 + 6 + 33 = **154 sts**
- 2XL: 35 + 6 + 82 + 6 + 35 = **164 sts**

*Continue working flat on body stitches only.*

---

### SECTION 6: BODY

**Work even in stockinette (knit RS, purl WS) until body measures 3 (3, 3, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5) in / 7.5 (7.5, 7.5, 9, 9, 9) cm from underarm.**

#### WAIST SHAPING — DECREASE SECTION

**Decrease Row (RS):** K3, **ssk**, k to last 5 sts, **k2tog**, k3. *(2 sts decreased)*

Work 5 rows even (no shaping).

Repeat Decrease Row every 6th row **3 more times** (4 decrease rows total, 8 sts decreased total).

**Stitch count after waist decreases:**
- XS: 112 − 8 = **104 sts**
- S: 122 − 8 = **114 sts**
- M: 132 − 8 = **124 sts**
- L: 142 − 8 = **134 sts**
- XL: 154 − 8 = **146 sts**
- 2XL: 164 − 8 = **156 sts**

**Work even for 2 in / 5 cm after last decrease row** (this is the waist).

#### WAIST SHAPING — INCREASE SECTION

**Increase Row (RS):** K3, **kfb**, k to last 4 sts, **kfb**, k3. *(2 sts increased)*

Work 5 rows even.

Repeat Increase Row every 6th row **3 more times** (4 increase rows total, 8 sts increased total).

**Stitch count after waist increases (back to pre-waist counts):**
- XS: **112 sts** ✓
- S: **122 sts** ✓
- M: **132 sts** ✓
- L: **142 sts** ✓
- XL: **154 sts** ✓
- 2XL: **164 sts** ✓

**Work even in stockinette until body measures 22 (22, 23, 23, 24, 24) in / 56 (56, 58.5, 58.5, 61, 61) cm from underarm** (or desired length to mid-thigh).

*Tip: Try the coat on at this point (or measure against a garment you own) to confirm the mid-thigh length before binding off. Mid-thigh typically falls 7–10 in / 18–25 cm above the knee.*

#### HEM RIBBING

Change to US 9 / 5.5 mm needle.

**Hem Ribbing (Seed Stitch, 6 rows):**
*Row 1 (RS):* [K1, p1] to end.
*Row 2 (WS):* [K1, p1] to end.
Repeat Rows 1–2 twice more.

**Bind Off (RS):** BO all sts in pattern (k the knit sts, p the purl sts) loosely. Do not cut yarn too close — leave a 6 in / 15 cm tail.

---

### SECTION 7: SLEEVES

*Work sleeves one at a time, in the round.*

**Setup:** Transfer sleeve sts from holder onto US 10.5 / 6.5 mm DPNs or short circular needle. With RS facing, rejoin yarn at underarm. Pick up and knit **4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts** across the underarm cast-on edge. Pm for BOR (at center of underarm picked-up sts).

**Sleeve stitch count:**
- XS: 44 + 4 = **48 sts**
- S: 48 + 4 = **52 sts**
- M: 53 + 5 = **58 sts**
- L: 57 + 5 = **62 sts**
- XL: 61 + 6 = **67 sts** *(adjust to even: 68 sts — inc 1 st on first rnd)*
- 2XL: 65 + 6 = **71 sts** *(adjust to even: 72 sts — inc 1 st on first rnd)*

*For XL and 2XL: On the first round, work a single kfb at a non-visible point to bring sleeve to an even stitch count.*

**Adjusted sleeve stitch counts:** 48 (52, 58, 62, 68, 72) sts.

**Work even in stockinette (knit every round) for 1.5 in / 4 cm.**

#### SLEEVE TAPER — DECREASE ROUNDS

**Decrease Rnd:** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(2 sts decreased)*

Work decrease rnd, then work **8 (8, 7, 7, 6, 6) rnds even** between each decrease round.

Repeat this decrease sequence **6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8) times** total.

**Sleeve stitch count at cuff:**
- XS: 48 − (6×2) = **36 sts**
- S: 52 − (6×2) = **40 sts**
- M: 58 − (7×2) = **44 sts**
- L: 62 − (7×2) = **48 sts**
- XL: 68 − (8×2) = **52 sts**
- 2XL: 72 − (8×2) = **56 sts**

**Work even until sleeve measures 15.5 (15.5, 16, 16, 16.5, 16.5) in / 39 (39, 40.5, 40.5, 42, 42) cm from underarm,** or 1.5 in / 4 cm less than desired total sleeve length.

#### CUFF RIBBING

Change to US 9 / 5.5 mm needle.

**Cuff Setup Rnd (reduce for ribbing):**
*XS:* [K4, k2tog] 6 times = **30 sts**
*S:* [K4, k2tog] 6 times, k4 = **34 sts** *(adjust to 34 — work last 4 sts plain)*
*M:* [K4, k2tog] 7 times, k2 = **37 sts** → round down: work [k4, k2tog] × 6, k8 = **38 sts**
*L:* [K4, k2tog] 8 times = **40 sts**
*XL:* [K4, k2tog] 8 times, k4 = **44 sts**
*2XL:* [K4, k2tog] 9 times, k2 = **47 sts** → round to 48: [k5, k2tog] × 7, k6 = **48 sts**

*Simplified cuff st counts after reduction:* **30 (34, 38, 40, 44, 48) sts**

**Work 2×2 Rib** (k2, p2) for **2 in / 5 cm** *(adjust starting st to align rib — if stitch count is not divisible by 4, work 1×1 rib instead: [k1, p1] around).*

*Note: 30 sts and 38 sts are not divisible by 4; work 1×1 rib for these sizes (XS and M). Sizes S, L, XL, 2XL work 2×2 rib.*

**BO all sts loosely in rib pattern.**

Repeat for second sleeve.

---

### SECTION 8: BUTTON BANDS

*Button bands are picked up along the entire center front edges and worked flat in seed stitch on the smaller needle.*

**Pick-up Rate:** Pick up and knit **3 sts for every 4 rows** along the front edges.

*Approximate row counts for front edges (total rows worked from CO to BO):*
- Neckband rows: 6 rows
- Yoke rows: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58) rows
- Body rows: 88 (88, 92, 92, 96, 96) rows
- Hem rows: 6 rows
- **Total rows per front edge:** 138 (142, 150, 154, 162, 166) rows

**Stitches to pick up (3 per 4 rows):**
- XS: 138 × 0.75 = **104 sts** (round to even number)
- S: 142 × 0.75 = **107 sts** → **106 sts**
- M: 150 × 0.75 = **113 sts** → **112 sts**
- L: 154 × 0.75 = **116 sts** → **116 sts**
- XL: 162 × 0.75 = **122 sts** → **122 sts**
- 2XL: 166 × 0.75 = **125 sts** → **124 sts**

*Actual pick-up count will vary slightly depending on your row gauge. After picking up, check that the band lies flat. If it ripples, pick up fewer sts; if it pulls, pick up more.*

#### RIGHT FRONT BAND (Button Band — as worn)

With RS facing and US 9 / 5.5 mm needle, beginning at **hem edge**, pick up and knit sts along the right front edge to the neck, picking up approximately the number of sts listed above for your size.

**Seed Stitch Band:**
*Row 1 (WS):* [K1, p1] to end.
*Row 2 (RS):* [K1, p1] to end.

Repeat Rows 1–2 once more (4 rows total).

**BO all sts in pattern.** This band receives **buttons only** — no buttonholes.

#### LEFT FRONT BAND (Buttonhole Band — as worn)

With RS facing and US 9 / 5.5 mm needle, beginning at **neck edge**, pick up and knit sts along the left front edge to the hem.

**Work Rows 1–2 of seed stitch twice** (4 rows total, same as right band).

**Buttonhole Row (RS):** Work in seed stitch to end, placing **6 evenly-spaced, 1-row buttonholes** as follows:

First, determine buttonhole placement:
- Divide the total picked-up stitch count into **7 equal sections** (6 buttons + 2 edge sts on each side).
- Place one buttonhole in each of the 6 interior sections.

**Single Buttonhole:** [yo, k2tog] at each buttonhole position.

After Buttonhole Row, work **2 more rows** in seed stitch.

**BO all sts in pattern.**

**Button placement suggestion:** Place the first button 0.5 in / 1 cm from the neck edge and the last button 0.5 in / 1 cm from the hem edge, with the remaining 4 buttons evenly spaced between.

---

### SECTION 9: FINISHING

1. **Weave in all ends** securely on the wrong side.
2. **Seam underarms:** Use the tail left from the underarm cast-on to seam any small gaps at the underarm join using mattress stitch or duplicate stitch.
3. **Block the coat:** Soak in cool water, gently squeeze out excess moisture (do not wring), lay flat to measurements listed in the Finished Measurements section. Pin to shape if necessary and allow to dry completely.
4. **Attach buttons:** Using a sewing needle and matching thread, sew 6 buttons to the right front band (as worn), aligned with the buttonholes on the left front band.

---

## SCHEMATIC (Written Description)

```
BACK BODY
├── Width at hem: 37 (41, 44, 47, 51, 55) in
├── Width at waist: 34.5 (38, 41, 44.5, 48.5, 52) in
└── Width at underarm: 37 (41, 44, 47, 51, 55) in

TOTAL BACK LENGTH (cast-on to hem): 31.5 (32, 33.5, 34, 35.5, 36) in

SLEEVE
├── Upper arm: 16 (17.3, 19.3, 20.7, 22.7, 24) in
├── Cuff: 10 (11.3, 12.7, 13.3, 14.7, 16) in
└── Length (underarm to cuff): 17 (17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18) in
```

---

## YARN YARDAGE GUIDE

| Size | Yards | Meters |
|---|---|---|
| XS | 900 yds | 823 m |
| S | 1,000 yds | 914 m |
| M | 1,100 yds | 1,006 m |
| L | 1,250 yds | 1,143 m |
| XL | 1,400 yds | 1,280 m |
| 2XL | 1,550 yds | 1,417 m |

*Always purchase an extra skein when possible — dye lots vary, and additional yarn may be needed for longer lengths or different gauges.*

---

## QUICK REFERENCE SUMMARY

| Step | Action |
|---|---|
| 1 | CO 40 (42, 44, 46, 48, 50) sts. Work 6-row seed stitch neckband. |
| 2 | Set up markers for raglan sections. |
| 3 | Work raglan increase rows (×19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29). |
| 4 | Separate sleeves; CO underarm sts. |
| 5 | Work body: even → waist dec × 4 → even → waist inc × 4 → even to length. |
| 6 | Work 6-row seed stitch hem; BO. |
| 7 | Work each sleeve in the round; taper to cuff; work ribbing; BO. |
| 8 | Pick up and work right front button band (no buttonholes). |
| 9 | Pick up and work left front buttonhole band (6 buttonholes). |
| 10 | Seam underarms, weave in ends, block, attach buttons. |

---

*© Pattern designed for personal use. Please do not reproduce or sell this pattern. Finished items made from this pattern may be sold by the knitter.*