purlJam

<pattern>

# **SOLO LEVELING TRIBUTE COWL**

*A machine-knitted cowl inspired by the iconic "system window" aesthetic and shadow soldiers of Solo Leveling. Features geometric jacquard patterning reminiscent of stat screens and a stylized shadow warrior motif.*

---

## **FINISHED MEASUREMENTS**
- Circumference: 26" (66 cm)
- Height: 12" (30.5 cm)

---

## **MATERIALS**

**Yarn:**
- **Main Color (MC)**: 200 yards worsted weight yarn in charcoal grey or black (representing shadows)
- **Contrast Color (CC)**: 150 yards worsted weight yarn in electric blue (representing system window glow)

*Sample uses Cascade 220 (100% wool, 220 yards/100g) - 1 skein MC, 1 skein CC*

**Machine & Equipment:**
- Standard gauge (4.5mm) knitting machine
- Electronic machine OR punchcard machine with custom card capability
- Ribber attachment NOT required
- Standard yarn feeders (yarn brake adjusted for worsted weight)
- Cast-on comb and weights (approximately 6-8 claw weights)
- Waste yarn for cast-on (smooth acrylic or cotton)
- Ravel cord
- Transfer tools
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needle for seaming

---

## **TENSION/GAUGE**

**Main Tension Setting:** T7 (adjust for your specific machine)
**Jacquard Tension Setting:** T8 (one full number looser to prevent puckering)

**Resulting Gauge:**
- Stockinette at T7: 5 sts × 7 rows = 1" (2.5 cm)
- Fair Isle/Jacquard at T8: 4.5 sts × 6.5 rows = 1" (2.5 cm)

**IMPORTANT:** Always knit a tension swatch with your specific yarn. The jacquard sections will draw in more than stockinette, so the looser tension at T8 compensates.

---

## **ABBREVIATIONS & MACHINE TERMS**

- **RC** = Row Counter
- **COL** = Carriage On Left
- **COR** = Carriage On Right
- **T** = Tension dial number
- **MC** = Main Color (charcoal/black)
- **CC** = Contrast Color (electric blue)
- **WY** = Waste Yarn
- **HP** = Holding Position
- **WP** = Working Position
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **Jacquard/Fair Isle** = 2-color knitting with both colors alternating per pattern
- **Feeder A** = Left yarn feeder
- **Feeder B** = Right yarn feeder

---

## **PATTERN NOTES**

1. **Construction:** Cowl is knitted flat as a rectangular panel from side to side (width becomes the height of the finished cowl). After completion, the cast-on and bind-off edges are seamed together to form the tube.

2. **Direction of Knitting:** You will cast on 60 sts (this creates the 12" height). You will knit 182 rows (this creates the 26" circumference before seaming).

3. **Jacquard Programming:**
   - For **electronic machines**: Input the charts provided into your machine's memory. Each chart is 12 rows high.
   - For **punchcard machines**: Punch the pattern onto a card. You will need to punch both the border pattern and center motif.
   - The machine will automatically select needles according to the pattern. MC knits on non-selected needles, CC knits on selected needles.

4. **Color Setup for Jacquard:**
   - Thread MC in Feeder A (or left position)
   - Thread CC in Feeder B (or right position)
   - Carriage set to Fair Isle/Jacquard setting (consult your machine manual - typically MC button and a pattern selector button)

5. **Edge Stitches:** The outermost stitches on each side will be used for seaming. Keep even tension on edges.

6. **Row Counter:** Set RC to 000 after waste knitting and ravel cord. Follow RC checkpoints carefully.

---

## **PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS**

### **SETUP & CAST-ON**

1. **Needle Arrangement:** Bring 60 needles to WP, centered on the machine bed (30 needles left of center 0, 30 needles right, or use positions -30 to +30).

2. **Waste Knitting:** 
   - Thread WY in Feeder A
   - Set tension to T5
   - With carriage at either side, knit 8-10 rows of waste yarn
   - Hang cast-on comb and add 6-8 claw weights evenly distributed

3. **Ravel Cord:** 
   - Lay ravel cord across needles in hooks
   - Knit 1 row, catching the cord (this creates a clear break point)

4. **Main Knitting Begins:**
   - Thread MC in Feeder A
   - Set tension to T7
   - RC 000
   - Knit 6 rows stockinette in MC only
   - **RC should read 006, carriage at either side**

---

### **BORDER PATTERN 1 (Bottom Border)**

**RC 006, tension T8, jacquard setting engaged**

5. **Setup for Jacquard:**
   - Remove MC from Feeder A, thread in Feeder A
   - Thread CC in Feeder B
   - Set carriage to Fair Isle/Jacquard mode
   - Increase tension to T8
   - Load Border Pattern Chart (see Chart A below) into machine memory or engage punchcard

6. **Knit Border Pattern:**
   - The pattern is 12 rows and will repeat across the 60-st width
   - Starting RC 006, knit 12 rows following Chart A
   - Machine will automatically select needles for CC; non-selected needles knit MC
   - **RC should read 018, COR or COL**

**Chart A - Border Pattern (12 rows × 12 st repeat):**
```
Row 12: CC□□■■■■■■□□■■ (■ = CC selected, □ = MC)
Row 11: CC■■□□□□□□■■□□
Row 10: CC■■□□□□□□■■□□
Row 9:  CC□□■■■■■■□□■■
Row 8:  CC□□□□□□□□□□□□ (all MC)
Row 7:  CC■■■■□□■■■■□□
Row 6:  CC□□□□■■□□□□■■
Row 5:  CC□□□□■■□□□□■■
Row 4:  CC■■■■□□■■■■□□
Row 3:  CC□□□□□□□□□□□□ (all MC)
Row 2:  CC■□■□■□■□■□■□
Row 1:  CC□■□■□■□■□■□■
```
*This creates a geometric "system window frame" effect. Repeat this 12-st pattern 5 times across the 60 needles.*

---

### **TRANSITION SECTION 1**

**RC 018, tension T7, stockinette**

7. **Return to Stockinette:**
   - Remove CC from Feeder B
   - Keep MC in Feeder A
   - Disengage jacquard setting (return to stockinette mode)
   - Reduce tension to T7
   - RC 018

8. **Knit Transition:**
   - Knit 10 rows in MC only, stockinette
   - **RC should read 028**

---

### **CENTER MOTIF PANEL (Shadow Soldier)**

**RC 028, tension T8, jacquard setting engaged**

9. **Setup for Center Motif:**
   - Thread CC in Feeder B (MC still in Feeder A)
   - Set carriage to Fair Isle/Jacquard mode
   - Increase tension to T8
   - Load Center Motif Chart (see Chart B below)

10. **Knit Center Motif:**
    - The motif is 36 rows tall, centered design
    - Starting RC 028, knit 36 rows following Chart B
    - **RC should read 064**

**Chart B - Center Motif (36 rows × 60 sts wide):**

*This chart represents a stylized standing figure (shadow soldier) in geometric form. Due to space constraints, I'm providing the concept - in practice, you would create a 36-row × 60-st chart with:*

- **Rows 1-6:** Base platform (horizontal lines in CC)
- **Rows 7-30:** Simplified humanoid figure - vertical body (sts 28-32), arms extending (sts 22-27 and 33-38 at shoulder level rows 22-26), legs (split at sts 27-29 and 31-33, rows 7-18), head/helmet shape (sts 27-33, rows 27-30)
- **Rows 31-36:** Upper glow effect (scattered CC stitches representing aura)

*For electronic machine users: Design this motif using your machine's design software, centering a 40-st wide figure within the 60-st width.*

*For punchcard users: Punch a custom card with simplified vertical figure approximately 24 stitches wide, centered.*

---

### **TRANSITION SECTION 2**

**RC 064, tension T7, stockinette**

11. **Return to Stockinette:**
    - Remove CC from Feeder B
    - Keep MC in Feeder A
    - Disengage jacquard setting
    - Reduce tension to T7
    - RC 064

12. **Knit Transition:**
    - Knit 10 rows in MC only
    - **RC should read 074**

---

### **REPEAT SECTIONS (Building the Circumference)**

**RC 074**

13. **Pattern Repeat Sequence:**
    - You will now repeat the border and motif sequence to build the full 26" circumference
    - The pattern sequence is: Border (12 rows) → Transition (10 rows) → Motif (36 rows) → Transition (10 rows)
    - Total pattern repeat = 68 rows
    - You've completed rows 006-074 (68 rows)

14. **Second Pattern Repeat:**
    - **RC 074-086:** Border Pattern (Chart A, 12 rows, T8, jacquard) 
    - **RC 086-096:** Transition (10 rows, T7, MC stockinette)
    - **RC 096-132:** Center Motif (Chart B, 36 rows, T8, jacquard)
    - **RC 132-142:** Transition (10 rows, T7, MC stockinette)
    - **RC should read 142**

15. **Third Pattern Repeat (Partial):**
    - **RC 142-154:** Border Pattern (Chart A, 12 rows, T8, jacquard)
    - **RC 154-164:** Transition (10 rows, T7, MC stockinette)
    - **RC should read 164**

---

### **FINAL BORDER & FINISHING ROWS**

**RC 164, tension T8, jacquard**

16. **Final Border Pattern:**
    - Set up jacquard (MC in Feeder A, CC in Feeder B, T8)
    - Load Border Pattern (Chart A)
    - Knit 12 rows
    - **RC should read 176**

17. **Final Stockinette Rows:**
    - Remove CC, return to MC only
    - Disengage jacquard, set T7
    - Knit 6 rows stockinette in MC
    - **RC should read 182**

---

### **BIND-OFF**

**RC 182**

18. **Latch Tool Bind-Off Method:**
    - With carriage at right (COR), RC 182
    - Cut MC leaving 24" (60cm) tail for seaming
    - Using latch tool, work from right to left:
      - Insert latch tool through first stitch, remove from needle
      - Pull working yarn through stitch to create first chain
      - Move to next needle, remove stitch, pull through previous loop
      - Continue across all 60 stitches
    - Secure final stitch

19. **Remove from Machine:**
    - Gently remove work from machine
    - Unravel waste yarn back to ravel cord
    - Carefully remove ravel cord to reveal live stitches of cast-on edge

---

## **FINISHING**

20. **Seaming:**
    - Lay piece flat with right side (smooth side) facing up
    - The cast-on edge and bind-off edge will be joined to form the tube
    - Using tapestry needle and yarn tail (or new length of MC):
      - Align cast-on and bind-off edges with pattern elements matching
      - Use mattress stitch to seam, working stitch-for-stitch
      - Ensure tension matches body of work (not too tight)
    - Weave in all ends on wrong side

21. **Blocking:**
    - Soak cowl in cool water with wool wash for 15 minutes
    - Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring)
    - Roll in towel to remove more moisture
    - Lay flat to dry on blocking board or towels
    - Gently stretch to finished measurements: 26" circumference × 12" height
    - Pin if necessary to maintain shape
    - Allow to dry completely (24-48 hours)

22. **Optional - Steam Blocking:**
    - Once dry, you may lightly steam the jacquard sections from the wrong side to further flatten any puckering
    - Hold steam iron 1-2" above fabric, do not press directly
    - Allow to cool and set

---

## **PATTERN VARIATIONS**

**Size Adjustments:**
- **Larger circumference:** Knit additional pattern repeats. Each full repeat (border-transition-motif-transition) adds approximately 9.5" to