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# STURDY CROCHET MOSES BASKET
### *A Beginner-Friendly Heirloom Basket in 9mm Cord*

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## DESCRIPTION

This beautifully simple Moses basket is crocheted entirely with thick 9mm cotton rope cord, creating a naturally firm and sturdy structure that holds its shape without any additional stiffening. The pattern is worked from the bottom up — starting with a flat oval base and building straight side walls to form a deep, roomy basket perfect for a newborn. With only single crochet and slip stitches throughout, this is an ideal first large-scale crochet project.

**Finished Dimensions (approximate):**
- Interior length: ~28 in (71 cm)
- Interior width: ~14 in (35.5 cm)
- Side wall depth: ~8 in (20 cm)
- Overall height including base: ~9–9.5 in (23–24 cm)

> ⚠️ **IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:** This basket is intended as a decorative Moses basket or a prop for supervised use only. It is NOT a certified infant sleep product. Never leave a baby unattended inside this basket. Always use a firm, correctly-sized mattress. Ensure all ends are completely secured before placing any child near the finished item.

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## MATERIALS

| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| **Cord** | 9mm natural cotton rope cord |
| **Amount** | Approximately 330–360 ft (100–110 m) total |
| **Color shown** | Natural/undyed (any single color works beautifully) |
| **Hook** | US N/P-15 / 10mm crochet hook |
| **Notions** | Scissors, tapestry needle or blunt large-eye needle (for weaving ends), stitch marker (1), measuring tape |
| **Optional** | 9mm cotton braided handles (purchased, approx. 18–20 in / 45–50 cm each) × 2 |

> **Cord Note:** Look for 9mm 3-ply twisted or braided natural cotton rope cord. Macramé cord works well. Avoid polypropylene or nylon rope as it is slippery and more difficult to work with. Approximately 330 ft (100 m) is sufficient for the basket alone; purchase an extra roll if adding optional handles or a decorative rim wrap.

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## GAUGE

**7 sc = 4 in (10 cm)**
**8 rounds = 4 in (10 cm)**

Worked in single crochet (sc) in the round with a 10mm hook and 9mm cord.

> **Gauge Note:** Because this is a basket (not a fitted garment), gauge does not need to be exact. However, a significantly looser gauge will produce a floppy basket, and a significantly tighter gauge will make crocheting very difficult on your hands. Aim to stay reasonably close. Your finished basket may vary by 1–2 in (2.5–5 cm) in any direction.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **ch** | chain |
| **sl st** | slip stitch |
| **sc** | single crochet |
| **sc2** | work 2 single crochet into the same stitch (increase) |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **rnd(s)** | round(s) |
| **BLO** | back loop only |
| **approx.** | approximately |
| **rep** | repeat |
| **pm** | place marker |
| **sm** | slip marker |

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Working in the round:** The base is begun flat (like a standard oval/ellipse base) then the sides are worked in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round.

2. **The oval base:** The oval is created by working along both sides of a foundation chain, with increases at each short end. This is a standard technique — don't be intimidated! Read through the base instructions fully before beginning.

3. **Joining rounds:** The sides are worked in a continuous spiral — do NOT join at the end of each round unless instructed. Simply continue crocheting and move your stitch marker up each round.

4. **Tension/firmness:** Work your stitches snugly but not so tight that it is difficult to insert your hook. The cord itself provides most of the structure.

5. **Cord management:** Work from the outside of the cord roll/ball, pulling from the center if possible to prevent tangling. If your cord twists as you work, periodically let the basket hang freely to untwist.

6. **Changing cord:** If you need to join a new length of cord, do so at the beginning of a round. Leave a 6 in (15 cm) tail on both ends and knot them together securely on the inside of the basket before weaving in. Do not rely on weaving alone — always knot first with this type of cord.

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### ——— PART 1: THE BASE (OVAL) ———

The base is worked flat, beginning with a foundation chain and increasing at each short end to form an oval shape. Total rounds in base: 4. Final stitch count at end of base: **56 sts**.

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**FOUNDATION CHAIN**

Ch 20.
*(This chain forms the center length of your oval. It is approximately 11.5 in / 29 cm long — don't worry, the oval will grow wider with increases.)*

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**BASE ROUND 1** *(First time around the chain — 52 sts)*

Working into the chain:

- Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each of the next 17 ch. *(18 sc worked along top of chain)*
- Work **3 sc** into the last ch (this is the first short-end increase). *(3 sc in corner)*
- Rotate your work 180° and sc back along the **underside/bottom** of the same foundation chain into each of the next 17 sts. *(17 sc)*
- Work **3 sc** into the very first ch you started in (this is the second short-end increase). *(3 sc in corner)*
- Sl st to join to first sc. Pm in first st of next round.

**Stitch count check:** 18 + 3 + 17 + 3 = **41 sts** — *wait, let's recount properly:*

> **Inline Stitch Count Verification — Round 1:**
> - Along top of chain: sc in sts 2 through 19 = **18 sc**
> - 3 sc in last (20th) chain = **3 sc**
> - Along bottom of chain: sc back through sts 19 down to 2 = **18 sc**
> - 3 sc in first chain = **3 sc**
> - Total: 18 + 3 + 18 + 3 = **42 sts** ✅
> *(Note: The underside of the chain provides 18 usable loops, same as the top.)*

Join with sl st. Total: **42 sts**.

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**BASE ROUND 2** *(Increase round — 48 sts)*

- Sc in each of the next 18 sts. *(along long side)*
- [Sc2 in next st] 3 times. *(3 increases at short end = 3 extra sts)*
- Sc in each of the next 18 sts. *(along other long side)*
- [Sc2 in next st] 3 times. *(3 increases at other short end = 3 extra sts)*
- Sl st to join.

> **Stitch count check:** 18 + 6 + 18 + 6 = **48 sts** ✅

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**BASE ROUND 3** *(Increase round — 52 sts)*

- Sc in each of the next 18 sts.
- [Sc in next st, sc2 in next st] 3 times. *(adds 3 sts)*
- Sc in each of the next 18 sts.
- [Sc in next st, sc2 in next st] 3 times. *(adds 3 sts)*
- Sl st to join.

> **Stitch count check:** 18 + (3×2+3) + 18 + (3×2+3) = 18 + 9 + 18 + 9 — *let me re-verify:*
> - Long side: 18 sc
> - Short end: [sc, sc2] × 3 = 6 sts worked, producing 9 sts
> - Long side: 18 sc
> - Short end: [sc, sc2] × 3 = 6 sts worked, producing 9 sts
> - Total sts produced: 18 + 9 + 18 + 9 = **54 sts**

> **Corrected count for Round 3: 54 sts** ✅

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**BASE ROUND 4** *(Final base increase round — 58 sts)*

- Sc in each of the next 18 sts.
- [Sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2 in next st] 3 times. *(adds 3 sts)*
- Sc in each of the next 21 sts.
- [Sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2 in next st] 3 times. *(adds 3 sts)*
- Sl st to join.

> **Stitch count check:**
> - Long side: 18 sc
> - Short end (from 9 sts): [sc, sc, sc2] × 3 = 9 sts worked, producing 12 sts
> - Long side: 18 + 3 previously added at ends = 21 sc
> - Short end: [sc, sc, sc2] × 3 = 12 sts
> - Total: 18 + 12 + 21 + 12 = **63 sts**

> ⚠️ *Recalibrating for cleaner math and target dimensions:*

**Revised Base Round 4 (use this version):**
After Round 3 = 54 sts.
- Sc in each st around, placing sc2 in every 9th stitch (6 increases evenly spaced).
- [Sc in each of next 8 sts, sc2 in next st] 6 times.
- Sl st to join.

> **Stitch count check:** 54 sts + 6 increases = **60 sts** ✅
> *(6 repeats × 9 sts = 54 worked; 6 sc2 add 6 extra = 60 total)*

**End of Base: 60 sts.** The oval base measures approximately 28 in × 14 in (71 × 35.5 cm).

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### ——— PART 2: PIVOT ROW — CREATING THE WALL EDGE ———

This is the most important row of the entire pattern. Working into the **back loop only (BLO)** of the final base round creates a sharp, clean 90° fold between the base and the walls — giving your basket a crisp, defined edge.

**PIVOT ROUND:**

Working in **BLO** only:
- Sc in BLO of every st around. Do NOT increase. Do NOT decrease.
- Sl st to join.

> **Stitch count check:** 60 sts in, 60 sts out. ✅

> **Tip:** After completing this round, physically bend the base up along this line — you will feel and see the basket beginning to take its wall shape. The unused front loops left behind form a neat decorative ridge on the outside base edge.

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### ——— PART 3: THE WALLS ———

From here, the sides are worked in **continuous rounds** (spiral — no joining, no ch 1 at start of round). Move your stitch marker up at the start of each round to track your progress.

Work **both loops** of each stitch for the walls (this is standard — no BLO unless specified).

**WALL ROUNDS 1–16:**
- Sc in each st around. *(no increases, no decreases)*
- Repeat this every round for **16 rounds total**.

> **Stitch count every round:** 60 sts ✅
> **Depth achieved:** 16 rounds ÷ 2 rounds per inch = **8 in (20 cm)** ✅

> **Progress check tip:** Mark every 4th round with a piece of contrasting yarn to keep your place. Rows of solid sc can be easy to lose track of.

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### ——— PART 4: THE RIM ———

The rim finishes the top edge of the basket, adds structural stability, and prevents the walls from splaying outward.

**RIM ROUND 1 (Reinforcing round):**
Working in **BLO** of last wall round:
- Sl st in BLO of every st around.
- Sl st to join.

> **Stitch count:** 60 sts ✅

**RIM ROUND 2 (Final round):**
Working in both loops:
- Sc in each st around.
- Sl st to join.
- Fasten off, leaving a 10 in (25.5 cm) tail for weaving in.

> **Stitch count:** 60 sts ✅

> **Tip:** The double rim gives the top edge a thick, rounded, rope-like appearance that is both attractive and functional.

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## FINISHING

### Weaving In Ends

1. Thread your tapestry needle with the tail end.
2. **Knot the tail** twice around an interior stitch first — do not skip this step with cord.
3. Weave the tail through at least 4–5 sts on the inside of the basket.
4. Trim excess, leaving no more than 0.25 in (6 mm).
5. Repeat for all ends (you should have a starting tail, an ending tail, and any join tails).

### Adding Optional Handles (Recommended)

Purchased braided cotton handles approximately 18–20 in (45–50 cm) long add a beautiful and functional finishing touch.

1. Mark handle placement: approximately 4 in (10 cm) from each short end, centered on the long sides.
2. At your marked points, use a large tapestry needle or awl to thread each handle end through the top 2–3 rounds of the basket wall.
3. Knot handle ends securely on the inside with multiple square knots.
4. Pull through several sts to anchor and trim.

> ⚠️ **Safety Note:** If adding handles to a basket used near an infant, ensure handles are extremely secure. Alternatively, decorative handles can be attached to the outside only as aesthetic detail.

### Optional: Base Support

For extra firmness, cut a piece of thin plywood or sturdy cardboard to the size of the interior base (approx. 26 in × 12 in / 66 cm × 30.5 cm), round the corners, and insert it into the bottom of the basket. Cover it with a fabric liner if desired.

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## SCHEMATIC / MEASUREMENTS SUMMARY

```
         ┌─────────────────────────────────┐
         │        TOP RIM (60 sts)         │
         │      ~32 in circumference       │
         │                                 │
         │  ↕ 8 in (20 cm) side walls     │
         │                                 │
         └────── OVAL BASE ───────────────┘
              ~28 in long × ~14 in wide
              (71 cm × 35.5 cm)
```

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## STITCH COUNT SUMMARY

| Section | Round | Stitch Count |
|---|---|---|
| Base | Foundation ch | 20 ch |
| Base | Round 1 | 42 sts |
| Base | Round 2 | 48 sts |
| Base | Round 3 | 54 sts |
| Base | Round 4 | 60 sts |
| Pivot | Pivot Round | 60 sts |
| Walls | Rounds 1–16 | 60 sts (constant) |
| Rim | Rounds 1–2 | 60 sts (constant) |

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## YARN / CORD ESTIMATE

| Section | Approximate Cord Used |
|---|---|
| Base (4 rounds) | ~75 ft (23 m) |
| Pivot round | ~10 ft (3 m) |
| Walls (16 rounds) | ~200 ft (61 m) |
| Rim (2 rounds) | ~25 ft (7.5 m) |
| **TOTAL** | **~310 ft (94.5 m)** |

> Purchase at least **330 ft (100 m)** to include finishing tails and a comfortable safety margin. A second roll of 100 m is recommended to have on hand.

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## TIPS FOR SUCCESS

- **Start with a slip knot:** Make a loose slip knot with your cord before beginning the foundation chain. 9mm cord is thick — your slip knot should be snug on the hook but not immovable.
- **Hook in the right place:** With thick cord it can be hard to identify the "V" of each stitch. Always insert your hook under BOTH legs of the V unless instructed otherwise.
- **Hand fatigue:** Working with 9mm cord requires more grip strength than standard yarn. Take breaks as needed. Stretching your hands and wrists is recommended.
- **The pivot row is magic:** If your basket walls seem to be leaning outward instead of going straight up, double-check that you completed the BLO pivot round — this is the most commonly missed step for beginners.
- **Blocking:** Not required for cotton cord. The structure is maintained by the cord itself.

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*Pattern designed for personal use. Not for commercial reproduction.*