purlJam

# The Cascade Pleated Dress

A graceful mid-length dress with a softly pleated skirt that flows from a fitted waist into a simple stocking stitch bodice. Worked seamlessly in the round from the hem up, this design uses a clever knit-and-purl rib that mimics knife pleats — no complex pleating techniques required. Perfect for an adventurous beginner ready to tackle their first garment.

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (Aran), approx. 1400–1600m (1530–1750 yards)
  - Suggested: a smooth wool or wool blend in a solid colour to show off the pleat texture
- **Needles:**
  - 5mm (UK 6 / US 8) circular needles, 80cm length — main needle
  - 4.5mm (UK 7 / US 7) circular needles, 80cm length — for waistband
  - 4.5mm circular needles, 40cm length — for neckline/armholes
- **Notions:**
  - Stitch markers (8 — one in a unique colour for beginning of round)
  - Tapestry needle
  - Tape measure
  - Waste yarn or stitch holders

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## Tension (Gauge)

**18 sts × 24 rows = 10cm (4")** in stocking stitch on 5mm needles, after blocking.

*Taking time to check your tension is essential for correct fit.*

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## Size

**Finished measurements (one size — Medium):**
- Bust: 93cm (36½")
- Waist: 80cm (31½")
- Hip (relaxed, pleats gathered): approx. 80cm (31½"); skirt circumference flat: 160cm (63")
- Total length from shoulder: approx. 95cm (37½")

*To adjust size: add or remove pleat repeats of 6 sts at cast-on (each repeat adds ~3.3cm to waist and ~6.7cm to skirt).*

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## Abbreviations

- **k** — knit
- **p** — purl
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **k2tog** — knit two together (1 st decreased)
- **m1** — make one (lift bar between sts and knit through back loop; 1 st increased)
- **pm** — place marker
- **sm** — slip marker
- **BOR** — beginning of round
- **rep** — repeat
- **rnd(s)** — round(s)
- **st st** — stocking stitch (knit every round when worked in the round)

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## Pattern Notes

- The dress is worked entirely in the round, bottom-up, with no seams.
- The "pleats" are created by a k4, p2 rib that naturally folds into soft vertical pleats.
- The waistband decreases gather the pleats into a fitted waist.
- The bodice is straight stocking stitch with simple armhole shaping and garter stitch straps.
- The skirt will look very wide and ruffled while knitting — this is correct! It gathers beautifully at the waist.

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## Instructions

### Skirt (Pleated Section)

With **5mm circular needles**, cast on **288 sts** using your preferred stretchy cast-on (long-tail works well).

Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a unique marker for BOR.

**Set-up round:** *k4, p2; rep from * to end of round.
- *Check: 288 ÷ 6 = 48 pleat repeats ✓*

Continue in **pleat pattern (k4, p2)** as set every round until skirt measures **60cm (23½")** from cast-on edge, ending after a complete round.

*Tip: The fabric will appear very full and wavy. Don't be alarmed — this is your future pleats.*

### Waist Decrease Round

Now we gather the pleats into the waist.

**Decrease round:** *k4, p2tog tog with the next k st... 

Let me state this more clearly:

**Decrease round:** *k2, k2tog, k2tog; rep from * to end of round.
- Working: each 6-st repeat (k4, p2) becomes 4 sts.
- *Check: 288 sts − (48 reps × 2 sts decreased) = 288 − 96 = 192 sts.*

Hmm — let me recalculate cleanly using the cleaner version below.

**Use this Decrease round (corrected):** *k2tog, k2, k2tog; rep from * to end of round.
- Each 6-st repeat becomes 4 sts. **Total: 192 sts.**
- *Check: 48 × 4 = 192 sts ✓*

This creates a soft gather at the natural waist.

### Waistband

Change to **4.5mm circular needles**.

**Rnd 1:** Knit all sts.

**Rnd 2:** *k1, k2tog; rep from * to end of round.
- *Check: 192 − (192 ÷ 3) = 192 − 64 = 128 sts*

Hmm, this gives 128 — let me revise to the planned 144 for a smoother waist-to-bust transition.

**Use this Rnd 2 instead:** Knit, decreasing 48 sts evenly across the round (knit 2 sts, k2tog) repeated. Specifically: *k2, k2tog; rep from * to end.
- *Check: 192 − (192 ÷ 4) = 192 − 48 = 144 sts ✓*

**Rnds 3–8 (waistband):** Work in k1, p1 rib for 6 rounds (approx. 2.5cm).
- *Check: 144 is even, so k1/p1 rib works evenly ✓*

### Bodice Setup

Change back to **5mm circular needles**.

**Increase round:** *k6, m1; rep from * to end of round.
- *Check: 144 + (144 ÷ 6) = 144 + 24 = 168 sts ✓*

This brings us up to bust circumference.

### Bodice

Work in **stocking stitch (knit every round)** until bodice measures **15cm (6")** from the top of the waistband.

### Divide for Front and Back (Armholes)

You will now work the front and back flat, separately.

**Setup round:** k4 (underarm sts), place next 76 sts on holder for FRONT, cast off 8 sts (underarm), k76 (back sts to remaining marker), place final 4 sts onto the underarm holder so total underarm sts held = 8.

Simpler restatement:

**Divide round:**
- Cast off 8 sts (right underarm)
- k76 sts (this is your BACK) — place on holder OR continue
- Cast off 8 sts (left underarm)
- k76 sts (this is your FRONT)

*Check: 8 + 76 + 8 + 76 = 168 sts ✓*

### Back

Working back and forth on the 76 back sts with 5mm needles (use straight or circular needles):

**Row 1 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 2 (RS):** k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(74 sts)*

Repeat these 2 rows **3 more times**. *(68 sts after 4 decrease rows)*
- *Check: 76 − (2 × 4) = 68 sts ✓*

Continue in st st (knit RS, purl WS) without further shaping until armhole measures **18cm (7")**, ending with a WS row.

**Shape neck and shoulders:**
- Next row (RS): k20, cast off centre 28 sts, k20.
- *Check: 20 + 28 + 20 = 68 sts ✓*

Working each shoulder separately, work 2 more rows in st st on the 20 sts. Place 20 sts on a holder for each shoulder.

### Front

Rejoin yarn to the 76 front sts at the right armhole edge (RS facing).

**Row 1 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 2 (RS):** k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(74 sts)*

Repeat these 2 rows **3 more times**. *(68 sts)*

Continue in st st until armhole measures **12cm (4¾")**, ending with a WS row.

**Shape neck:**
- Next row (RS): k24, cast off centre 20 sts, k24.
- *Check: 24 + 20 + 24 = 68 sts ✓*

Working each side separately:

**Left front shoulder (24 sts):**
- WS row: purl.
- RS row: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(23 sts)*
- Repeat last 2 rows until 20 sts remain.
- *Check: 24 − 4 decreases = 20 sts ✓*
- Continue straight until armhole matches back. Place sts on holder.

**Right front shoulder (24 sts):** rejoin yarn at neck edge.
- WS row: purl.
- RS row: k1, k2tog, knit to end. *(23 sts)*
- Repeat last 2 rows until 20 sts remain.
- Continue straight until armhole matches back. Place sts on holder.

### Join Shoulders

Using a three-needle cast off, join front and back shoulders together (RS facing each other) — 20 sts each side.

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## Finishing

### Neckline

With 4.5mm short circular needle, beginning at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit approximately:
- 20 sts down left front neck
- 20 sts across centre front
- 20 sts up right front neck
- 4 sts down right back neck
- 28 sts across centre back
- 4 sts up left back neck

*Total: approx. 96 sts (a multiple of 2 for ribbing)*

Join in the round and work k1, p1 rib for 4 rounds. Cast off loosely in rib.

### Armhole Edging

With 4.5mm short circular needle, pick up and knit approximately 80 sts evenly around each armhole opening.

Join in the round and work k1, p1 rib for 4 rounds. Cast off loosely in rib.

### Weave in Ends and Block

Weave in all ends on the wrong side.

**Blocking is essential** to set the pleats:
1. Soak the dress in lukewarm water with wool wash for 20 minutes.
2. Gently squeeze out water (do not wring).
3. Lay flat on blocking mats or towels.
4. **Pinch each pleat into shape** along the skirt, pinning at the hem so they dry in crisp folds.
5. Smooth the bodice to measurements.
6. Allow to dry completely (24–48 hours).

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## Schematic Summary

| Section | Stitch count | Length |
|---|---|---|
| Cast-on (hem) | 288 sts | — |
| Skirt in pleat pattern | 288 sts | 60cm |
| After waist decrease | 192 → 144 sts | — |
| Waistband (rib) | 144 sts | 2.5cm |
| After bodice increase | 168 sts | — |
| Bodice to underarm | 168 sts | 15cm |
| Back/Front after armhole shaping | 68 sts each | 18cm to shoulder |
| **Total length** | | **approx. 95cm** |

Enjoy your beautiful new pleated dress! 🌿