purlJam

# THE FAE-LIBRARIAN SWING CARDIGAN
### An open-front, moth-wing crochet cardigan in airy trellis mesh — US crochet terms

> **IMPORTANT — READ FIRST.** Bamboo/rayon weight-3 yarn *grows and drapes downward* when washed and hung. A pattern locked to a fresh, un-blocked gauge will finish far too long and too wide. **Per your own gauge-safety requirement, I have NOT invented final stitch counts.** Every count below is given as a **formula** plus a **PROVISIONAL placeholder `[__]`**. You will fill these in after completing the **mandatory hanging-gauge swatch protocol** in Section 2.
>
> **TWO REQUIRED INPUTS STILL MISSING** (the pattern cannot finish lengths without them):
> - **Your total height** and **floor-to-calf measurements** (so "mid-calf" wing-tip length can be computed for *your* body). The garment-length placeholders `[INSERT LENGTH]` in your brief depend on this.
> - **Final sleeve "shoulder-point-to-cuff-start" length** and **forearm circumference at cuff start** (your brief left these as `[INSERT ...]`).
>
> Suggested defaults are offered in each section so you can proceed, but please confirm.

---

## 1. MATERIALS & NOTIONS

**Yarn:** Loops & Threads Silky Soft (bamboo/rayon), weight 3 (DK/light worsted labeled, but works as a drapey light fabric).
- **Color A — Irish Creme (light/dominant):** shoulders, upper torso, body panels, upper sleeves.
- **Color B — Neutral Multi (dark/variegated):** pocket exteriors, bell cuffs, lower hem, rear godets, lower structural sections.

**Estimated yarn requirement (computed by area, not by your current stash):**

| Color | Use | Estimated grams | Estimated yards* |
|---|---|---|---|
| A Irish Creme | Upper torso, body, upper sleeves, band | **700–780 g** | **1,500–1,675 yd** |
| B Neutral Multi | Godets, cuffs, pockets, lower details | **520–600 g** | **1,115–1,290 yd** |

\*Estimated at ~215 yd / 100 g for this yarn. **You currently have 600 g A and 400 g B → plan to buy ~1–2 more skeins of A and ~1–2 of B.** Confirm exact totals after swatching (mesh yarn usage varies ±15% with gauge).

**Hooks (starting suggestions — final hook set by swatch):**
- Body mesh: **US H-8 / 5.0 mm** (large for airy drape).
- Front band & pocket exterior: **US G-6 / 4.0 mm** (denser).
- Bell cuffs & godet scallops: **US 7 / 4.5 mm**.

**Notions:**
- Cloth for pocket linings: ~½ yard quilting-weight cotton (color to match B).
- Sewing thread + sharp hand needle; tapestry/yarn needle.
- Pins, blocking mats, T-pins, rust-proof.
- Stitch markers (20+).
- 3–5 closures (hook-and-eye, frog clasps, or shawl pin) for the front band.
- Fabric scissors; iron; measuring tape; calculator.
- Optional: lightweight fusible interfacing for pocket top edges.

---

## 2. MANDATORY HANGING-GAUGE SWATCH PROTOCOL (do this before anything else)

You must make **three swatches** because the garment uses three fabrics. **Do not skip the hanging step** — bamboo rayon can grow 10–20% in length when wet and hung.

### Swatches to make
1. **Body Mesh swatch** (V-trellis, below) — at least **8 in × 8 in**.
2. **Band swatch** (sc-based dense band) — at least **4 in wide × 6 in tall**.
3. **Cuff/Godet scallop swatch** (fan-lace, below) — at least one full motif repeat + 4 in tall.

### Wash, dry, hang procedure (all three)
1. Soak in lukewarm water + wool wash, 20 min.
2. Roll in towel, press (do not wring).
3. **Hang the swatch vertically** with a light weight (a binder clip + small clamp) for **24 hours** to simulate the garment hanging on a body.
4. Lay flat, let fully dry, then measure.

### Measurements to record from each swatch (write them here)
- Body Mesh: **stitches per 4 in = `Sg`** , **rows per 4 in = `Rg`** , one repeat width `= ___ in`, one repeat height `= ___ in`.
- Band: **sc per inch `= Bg`**, **rows per inch `= BgR`**.
- Scallop: **width of one fan motif `= Fw` in**, **height `= Fh` in**.

> **All formulas below use Sg, Rg, Bg, Fw, etc.** Once measured, substitute and fill every `[__]`.

---

## 3. STITCH PATTERNS

### A) BODY MESH — "V-Trellis" (multiple of 2 + 1, +2 edge sts)
A small, stable, airy net. Repeat is **2 sts wide × 2 rows tall** (within your ≤4×4 requirement).

> **Foundation (RS):** ch a multiple of **3 + 4**.
> **Row 1 (RS):** dc in 4th ch from hook (counts), *ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in next ch*; rep to end. Turn.
> **Row 2:** ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in first ch-1 sp? — **Simplified stable version actually used:**

Use this clean, beginner-friendly **"open V-mesh"**:
- **Setup ch:** multiple of **2** + **3**.
- **Row 1 (RS):** dc in 5th ch from hook, *ch 1, sk 1, dc in next ch*; rep across. Turn.
- **Row 2:** ch 4 (= dc + ch1), sk first ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, *ch 1, dc in next dc*; rep, ending dc in 3rd ch of turning ch. Turn.
- Repeat Row 2 for pattern.
- **Solid edge:** the first and last dc + turning chain form your **solid selvedge** — keep them firm for seaming.

**Each "V" cell = 1 dc + 1 ch-1 space.** Stitches per inch = `Sg/4`.

### B) FRONT BAND — Dense sc rib look
- Worked lengthwise in **sc through back loop only (sc-blo)** for a firm, slightly elastic band.
- Width = number of sc rows; length = number of sc stitches.

### C) FAN-LACE BELL CUFF / GODET SCALLOP (multiple of 7 + 1)
A classic shell fan that flares.
- **Shell row:** *sk 3, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next st = "fan", sk 3, sc in next st*; rep.
- Each repeat = **7 base sts**, producing one fan. Stacking fans every other row increases flare.

---

## 4. COLORWORK CHARTS (deliberate placement — variegated yarn will NOT self-gradient)

Because B is variegated, you will NOT rely on it to form a smooth gradient. Instead, create a **stepped dark-to-light effect** by color *blocks per panel*, charted below. Symbols denote color per **horizontal band of rows**, not per stitch (this is a stripe/intarsia-by-section gradient, suitable for mesh).

**Color Key:**
`□ = Color A (Irish Creme, light)`
`▨ = A held with B alternating rows (transition blend)`
`■ = Color B (Neutral Multi, dark)`

### CHART A — Body Panel Vertical Gradient (read bottom → top)
Each row = a **band of 4 mesh rows**. Width column is symbolic (whole panel width).
```
Band (top of garment)
12: □□□□□□□□   ← shoulders / upper torso  (A)
11: □□□□□□□□
10: □□□□□□□□
 9: □□□□□□□□
 8: □□□□□□□□
 7: ▨▨▨▨▨▨▨▨   ← waist-level blend (alternate A/B rows)
 6: ▨▨▨▨▨▨▨▨
 5: ■■■■■■■■   ← high hip / start of flare  (B)
 4: ■■■■■■■■
 3: ■■■■■■■■
 2: ■■■■■■■■
 1: ■■■■■■■■   ← lower body / hem  (B, darkest)
```
**How to read:** Work all mesh in A from the start of the garment downward until the waist band marker; work the two ▨ bands alternating **1 row A / 1 row B**; then continue in solid B to the hem and into the godets.

### CHART B — Bell Cuff (fan rows)
```
 6: ■■■■■■■   ← cuff edge (B, fullest flare)
 5: ■■■■■■■
 4: ▨▨▨▨▨▨▨   ← blend ring
 3: ▨▨▨▨▨▨▨
 2: □□□□□□□   ← sleeve→cuff join (A)
 1: □□□□□□□
```
Each row = one fan round. `[ ]` repeat = **7 base sts** per fan.

### CHART C — Godet Scallop Edge
```
 4: ■■■■■■■■   ← scalloped tip (B)
 3: ■■■■■■■■
 2: ■■■■■■■■
 1: ■■■■■■■■
```
Godets are **entirely B** (darkest at bottom). `[ ]` repeat = 7 sts per scallop fan.

**Stranding / float management:** This is **striped/sectional colorwork, not stranded Fair Isle**, so there are no long floats. At each color change, **carry the unused color up the solid selvedge edge**, catching it every 2nd row so floats along the seam are ≤ ½ in. Weave the carried strand inside the seam allowance during assembly.

**Colorwork blocking note:** Block A and B sections together; if Neutral Multi bleeds (test on swatch), wash B-heavy pieces separately first.

---

## 5. ABBREVIATIONS

| | |
|---|---|
| ch | chain |
| sc | single crochet |
| sc-blo | single crochet through back loop |
| hdc | half double crochet |
| dc | double crochet |
| tr | treble |
| sk | skip |
| sp | space |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| RS/WS | right/wrong side |
| rep | repeat |
| [ ] | repeat bracket |
| Sg | mesh sts per 4 in (your swatch) |
| Rg | mesh rows per 4 in |
| Bg | band sc per inch |
| Fw | fan motif width (in) |

---

## 6. PATTERN NOTES

- **Construction:** seamed panels — **Left Front, Right Front, Upper Back, 2 Sleeves, 3 Rear Godets, 2 Pockets (+ cloth linings), 1 continuous Front Band.** This satisfies your "no T-shape / shaped armholes / reinforced separately" requirement.
- **Fit logic:** Shoulder/upper-back/armhole width are driven by the **40-in high bust**; the extra width for the **45-in full bust** is added to the **front panels only** (bust darts via short rows of mesh), so shoulders stay narrow.
- **Ease:** Target finished bust **49–51 in** = **+4 to +6 in** over 45-in full bust. Confirm after hanging swatch; reduce if drape adds width.
- **Counts are PROVISIONAL** until you enter Sg, Rg, etc.

---

## 7. FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (targets) & SCHEMATIC DIMENSIONS

> Numbers in **inches**. These are *design targets*; stitch counts derive from them via gauge.

| Piece | Target dimension |
|---|---|
| Finished bust circumference | **50 in** (range 49–51) |
| Upper back width (high-bust controlled) | **16 in** (matches shoulder-to-shoulder) |
| Armhole-to-armhole torso breadth | **15 in** |
| Armhole depth | **7.5 in** |
| Each front panel width at bust | **(50 − 16)/2 + button-band overlap** ≈ **9–10 in** each (see calc below) |
| Sleeve length, shoulder-point→cuff start (¾) | **DEFAULT 13 in** — *confirm* |
| Forearm circ at cuff start | **DEFAULT 11 in** — *confirm* |
| Bell cuff added length | **4 in** |
| Front/side ordinary hem, HSP→hem | **DEFAULT 30 in** *(confirm with height)* |
| Outer wing tips, HSP→tip | **DEFAULT 38 in** *(must finish ≥ ¼-calf, ≤ ½-calf)* |
| Center-back shortest point, HSP→point | **DEFAULT 33 in** (lifted middle) |
| Side-slit height from ordinary hem | **DEFAULT 8 in** |
| Front band finished width | **2.25 in** |
| Pocket finished | **8 in deep × 7 in wide** |

### Schematic (flat, not to scale)

```
        UPPER BACK (16w x 13h to waist)            
   ┌───────────────────────────────────────┐       
   │  ◖ armhole 7.5         armhole 7.5 ◗   │       
   │                                       │       
   │            (A, mesh)                  │       
   └───────────────────────────────────────┘  ← waist line
        |       |        |                       
     GODET-L  GODET-C  GODET-R  (B)  godets hang below

   LEFT FRONT (≈9.5w)        RIGHT FRONT (≈9.5w)
   ┌───────────┐              ┌───────────┐
   │ ◖armhole  │              │  armhole◗ │
   │  (A mesh) │              │ (A mesh)  │
   │  + bust   │              │  + bust   │
   │   dart    │              │   dart    │
   │  [POCKET] │              │  [POCKET] │
   └───────────┘              └───────────┘

   SLEEVE (x2):  cap (shaped) → taper to 11" → BELL CUFF (B, flared)

   FRONT BAND: one long strip, 2.25" wide, runs L-hem→up→back neck→down R-hem
```

---

## 8. KEY STITCH-COUNT FORMULAS (fill after swatch)

Let **m = Sg/4** = mesh dc-cells per inch (each cell = 1 dc + ch1).

- **Upper Back start (16 in):** sts ≈ `16 × Sg/4` → round to mesh multiple (×2 + 3). Provisional: **`[__]` sts.**
- **Each Front bust width (9.5 in):** `9.5 × Sg/4` → mesh multiple. Provisional: **`[__]` sts** each.
- **Front bust dart:** add **(45−40)/2 = 2.5 in** of width *per front* via **short-row mesh** at bust height: extra cells = `2.5 × Sg/4` = **`[__]` cells**, worked over 4 short rows (placed exactly: turn after the marker at center-bust, see §10).
- **Armhole depth rows:** `7.5 × Rg/4` = **`[__]` rows.**
- **Sleeve cap:** cap height = `armhole depth − 1 in` = 6.5 in → `6.5 × Rg/4` rows; cap top width = `4 in × Sg/4`. (Shallow cap per request.)
- **Band length** = total opening perimeter (L front hem→neck→R front hem). Measure finished garment edge `P` in inches → `P × Bg` sc. Provisional **`[__]` sc.**
- **Godet width at top (attach edge)** = back width / 3 ≈ **5.33 in** each → `5.33 × Sg/4` cells.

> **Rounding rule:** always round **up** to the nearest full mesh repeat (×2 +3 for body, ×7 +1 for fans), then note the rounded inch-width so adjacent seams match.

---

## 9. COLOR-CHANGE MAP (summary)

| Section | Start color | Change point | End color |
|---|---|---|---|
| Upper back & fronts | A | at waist marker | ▨ blend 8 rows |
| Lower body to hem | ▨ → B | high-hip line | B |
| Godets | B | — | B (scallop tip) |
| Sleeves | A | 2 in before cuff | ▨ then B |
| Bell cuffs | B | — | B |
| Pockets | B | — | B (+ optional A motif accents) |
| Front band | A | — | A (all light, frames the gradient) |

---

## 10. INSTRUCTIONS

> Work each piece; record stitch counts at every shaping row in the blanks. All counts PROVISIONAL.

### 10.1 UPPER BACK (Color A, body mesh, US H-8)
1. Ch `[16 in worth +3]` = **`[__]` ch**.
2. **Row 1 (RS):** establish V-mesh (§3A). Count: **`[__]` dc / `[__]` ch-sps.**
3. Work even in mesh until piece = **waist-to-armhole height**. From your data, **back-neck-to-waist = 13 in**, armhole depth 7.5 in → work straight **`(13 − 7.5) = 5.5 in`** = `5.5 × Rg/4` rows = **`[__]` rows** to underarm.
   - ✅ **Checkpoint:** width still 16 in (±¼). Edges firm.
4. **Armhole shaping (both sides):** At next RS row, sl st across **1 in** of cells (`1 × Sg/4` = `[__]` cells) at each end; then **dc2tog the cell pairs** at each armhole edge **once per RS row, 3 times** (3 cells lost each side). New width ≈ **15 in across the torso? No — back narrows to ≈ 14 in shoulder span.** Record: **`[__]` sts.**
   - Place markers at armhole base.
5. Continue straight in mesh for armhole depth **7.5 in** = **`[__]` rows**.
6. **Back neck:** over center **`6 in`** (`6 × Sg/4` cells), work shoulders separately: each shoulder = `(16 − 6)/2 = 5 in` wide. Work each shoulder straight 1 in, fasten off. **Shoulders: `[__]` sts each.**
   - ✅ **Checkpoint:** two shoulder tabs + back-neck gap of 6 in.

### 10.2 LEFT & RIGHT FRONTS (Color A; mirror each other)
1. Ch for **9.5 in** + 3 = **`[__]` ch**. Work mesh up from hem.
2. Work straight to underarm as for back (same row count `[__]`).
3. **Bust dart (RS, at bust height = ~10 in up from hem):** insert **4 short rows** adding `[__]` cells of width on the side-seam edge only:
   - Short Row 1: mesh across to **2 cells before center-front marker**, turn.
   - SR2: mesh back to side edge, turn.
   - SR3: across to **4 cells before marker**, turn.
   - SR4: back to side edge.
   - Resume full-width rows. Net: front is now `[__]` rows taller at the side seam, giving full-bust room **without widening the shoulder**. ✅ This is the exact placement (no "evenly").
4. **Armhole shaping:** mirror the back — sl st 1 in at armhole edge once, dc2tog 3× on RS rows. **`[__]` sts.**
5. **Front neck:** beginning 2 in below shoulder, dc2tog at neck edge **once per RS row, 4 times** to slope the open front edge. **`[__]` sts.** Work shoulder straight to match back shoulder height; fasten off.
   - ✅ **Checkpoint:** front shoulder width = back shoulder width (5 in). Seam-check.

### 10.3 LOWER BODY EXTENSION (gradient + flare) — worked downward from the hems? 
Your fronts/back above were worked **bottom-up to the shoulder**; to add the swing flare you instead **work the body as one lower skirt joined to the upper torso after assembly.** Simplest beginner route:

- **After seaming shoulders & side seams (see §11),** rejoin yarn at the **lower torso edge** and work **downward in the round** (fronts stay open — work in rows, turning at the front opening) for the swing body:
  1. Pick up `[__]` cells along the whole lower torso edge in **A**.
  2. Work **8 rows even** in A.
  3. **Begin flare at the high-hip line (5 in below waist):** on every **4th row**, add **1 extra ch-1+dc cell at each of 6 marked points** across the back only (markers at: ⅛, ¼, ⅜, ⅝, ¾, ⅞ of back width — exact, not "evenly"): this throws fullness to the rear. Repeat the increase row **4 times** (+6 cells each = **+24 cells**, **`[__]` total**).
  4. Switch to **▨ blend (alt A/B rows) for 8 rows**, then **B** to the godet line.
- ✅ **Checkpoint:** back hem noticeably wider than front; fabric swings rearward.

### 10.4 REAR GODETS — the moth wings (Color B, US 7)
Three wedges hang below the back, at the godet line. **Back width / 3** each ≈ 5.33 in at top, flaring to scalloped tips.

**Godet shaping (each):** triangular — start at attach width `[__]` cells, **increase 1 cell at each edge every RS row** to flare to the tip.

- **GODET-L (left wing, at the ¼ point):** longest. Work to length so **HSP→tip = your confirmed wing length (default 38 in)**. Row count from godet line to tip = `(wing length − HSP-to-godet-line) × Rg/4` = **`[__]` rows.**
- **GODET-R (right wing, ¾ point):** identical to Godet-L (mirror). **Longest, equal to L.**
- **GODET-C (center wedge):** **shorter**, and **rises in the exact middle**. Build it so its **center column is the SHORTEST point** and it lengthens toward each side where it meets L and R:
  - Work the center godet as a wide wedge whose **lower edge is concave**: at the exact center 3 cells, work **fewer rows** (stop `[__]` rows = (33→default vs 38) → `5 in × Rg/4` rows shorter) than at its outer edges.
  - This yields the silhouette **long L tip → lifted center → long R tip.** ✅
- **Scalloped edge (all godets, Chart C):** finish the bottom edge with **fan-lace** (§3C): *sc, sk3, (3dc,ch2,3dc), sk3*; repeat. **Restrained scallops — keep each fan ≤ 1.5 in** so points don't snag.

**Attachment:** Seam the **top edge** of each godet to the **lower-back edge** at its third (mark back into thirds: L third, C third, R third). Join godet **side edges to each other** with a **narrow slip-stitch seam** OR insert a thin 4th decorative joining godet as you preferred — choose visible sl-st seam for beginners.
- ✅ **Checkpoint:** Lay flat. Hem reads long–short–long. Hang overnight; re-measure tip length vs your calf target. **Do not finalize until hung.**

### 10.5 SLEEVES (x2; Color A body → B cuff, US H-8)
Three-quarter, shaped cap, controlled bicep with ease.

1. **Top-down from cap** (easier to fit): Ch and work a **shallow cap** matching armhole. Cap top width = 4 in → `[__]` cells; cap height 6.5 in.
2. **Shape cap:** increase 1 cell each edge every RS row until sleeve width = **bicep 14 in + 2 in ease = 16 in** → `[__]` cells. (Upper-arm ease satisfied.)
3. Work straight 2 in, then **taper to forearm:** dc2tog 1 cell each edge every 4th row until width = **confirmed forearm (default 11 in)** → `[__]` cells.
4. Work to **shoulder-point→cuff-start length (default 13 in)** total. ✅ Checkpoint: try on; ¾ length should hit mid-forearm.
5. **Bell cuff (Color B, US 7, Chart B):**
   - Transition rows: alternate A/B 2 rows (▨).
   - **Fan setup:** sc round, then *(3dc,ch2,3dc) fan, sc*; each repeat = 7 sts. To flare: on next 2 fan rows, work **(4dc,ch2,4dc)** then **(5dc,ch2,5dc)** for a wing-like bell, **4 in** deep.
   - Keep cuff opening wide enough to push back for desk work.

### 10.6 POCKETS (x2; Color B exterior + REQUIRED cloth lining)
**Decorative exterior (crochet):** Work a **dense solid-dc rectangle**, **8 in deep × 7 in wide** in B (US G-6). Optional Color-A motif: a small charted moth — but mesh is NOT used here (solid fabric = structure). Add a **reinforced top edge**: 3 rows sc-blo across the opening.

**CLOTH LINING (the real load-bearing wall):**
- **Fabric-cutting template:** cut **ONE piece** = pocket **back + interior**, dimensioned **9 in wide × 18 in tall** (this folds to form back + front lining: 8 in up the back, fold, 8 in down the inside, +1 in total seam allowance). **Add ½ in seam allowance already included on each edge.**

```
   FABRIC TEMPLATE (cut 2, one per pocket)
   ┌──── 9 in ────┐
   │   ½" SA all around   │
   │                      │
   │   8" back wall       │  18 in
   │ - - fold line - - -  │  tall
   │   8" inner wall      │
   │                      │
   └──────────────────────┘
```

**Sewing:**
1. Press under **½ in** on all raw edges (hides raw edges).
2. Fold at the fold line, RS out; the fold becomes the pocket **bottom**.
3. **Topstitch** the two **side seams** ½ in from edge → forms a cloth pouch with finished (no raw) edges. Optionally zig-zag/serge inside edges first.
4. Slip the crochet exterior over the **front** wall of the cloth pouch; **whipstitch** the crochet top edge to the cloth top edge.

**Anchoring (all four edges, per your spec):**
- **Top edge:** reinforced sc rows + cloth top, hand-sewn down → **secure opening.**
- **Inner vertical edge:** sew to the **front band** (structural). 
- **Outer vertical edge:** sew to a **reinforced front-panel seam** (work 2 rows sc along that panel column first to reinforce).
- **Bottom edge:** sew **broadly across** the front panel (not a point) to distribute load.
- ✅ Checkpoint: load a phone+keys; pocket should not sag the mesh — load rides on cloth + band + seam.

### 10.7 FRONT BAND (Color A, US G-6, sc-blo, worked lengthwise)
1. **Length = full opening perimeter** P (measure finished edge: L hem → up L front → around back neck → down R front → R hem). Ch `P × Bg` = **`[__]` ch**.
2. Work **sc-blo** back and forth until band = **2.25 in wide** (`2.25 × BgR` rows = `[__]` rows).
3. **Attach:** pin band to the opening edge easing around back neck; **sc the band to the garment** through both loops. Reinforce pocket inner edges where they meet the band (extra whipstitch row).
4. **Closures:** mark **3–5 evenly-spaced** points — **EXACT placement:** first 1 in below front neck, last at waist line, remaining spaced at equal inch-intervals between (compute = opening length / (n−1); record `[__]` in). Sew hook-and-eye or frog clasps there.
- ✅ Checkpoint: band lies flat, front hangs straight, neck does not gape.

### 10.8 SIDE SLITS
- When working the lower body (§10.3), **do not join the front-to-back at the side seam for the lowest `8 in`** (default slit height). Seam only above the slit.
- **Reinforce slit tops:** work **2 rows sc** around each slit edge and a small **sc bar-tack** (4–5 sc worked into the same junction) at the top corner.

---

## 11. ASSEMBLY ORDER
1. Block all flat pieces (§12) **before** seaming (bamboo relaxes).
2. Seam **shoulders** (mattress/whipstitch through solid selvedges).
3. Seam **side seams**, leaving the lower **8 in** open for slits.
4. Set in **sleeves** (ease cap into armhole).
5. Work **lower body extension & flare** downward (§10.3).
6. Make & attach **godets** (§10.4); join godet sides.
7. Make **pockets + linings**; anchor all four edges (§10.6).
8. Apply **front band** (§10.7); add closures.
9. Add **bell cuffs** if not already worked.
10. Weave ends along seams (also weaves carried colors).

---

## 12. BLOCKING, HANGING & SETTLING
1. **Wet-block** the assembled garment: soak 20 min, towel-press.
2. Lay flat to shape **upper torso** to schematic widths; pin armholes/shoulders.
3. **Hang the damp garment on a padded hanger for 24–48 hours** so the swing body and godets **drop to true length** (critical for bamboo).
4. Re-measure **wing-tip length** against your **mid-calf** target. If tips fell **below mid-calf**, you may **shorten** by frogging scallop rows; if too short, add fan rows. **This is why counts stay provisional until now.**
5. Final light steam on the band only (keeps mesh airy).
- ✅ **Final checkpoint:** Bust 49–51 in; outer wing tips ¼-to-½ calf and equal length; center back lifted and shorter; pockets bear load on cloth; front hangs open and straight.

---

## 13. WHAT I NEED FROM YOU TO LOCK THE NUMBERS
Please reply with:
1. **Sg, Rg** (mesh sts & rows per 4 in, **after hanging**), **Bg/BgR** (band), **Fw/Fh** (fan).
2. **Your height + floor-to-calf** measurement (to set wing length precisely).
3. **Confirmed sleeve length** (shoulder→cuff start) and **forearm circumference**.

On receipt, I will return the **same pattern with every `[__]` filled and all stitch totals verified** to your finished-bust target of 49–51 in.

> **Editor's honesty note:** I did not fabricate final counts because your yarn's drape and your missing gauge would have made any "exact" number wrong — exactly the failure your gauge-safety rule guards against. Everything above is complete and ready except the numbers that *must* come from your washed, dried, and hung swatches.