The Hemlock Pullover

A classic worsted winter pullover · US crochet terms

A relaxed drop-shoulder pullover worked flat in pieces from the hem up, then seamed. The fabric is plain double crochet — warm, reversible enough for seaming, and fast — with stretchy single-crochet-blo ribbing at hem, cuffs, and neck. Designed for worsted wool or wool-blend so it reads as a true winter layer, and sized so an intermediate maker stitching most evenings can finish it in about a week.

Skill Level

Intermediate. You should be comfortable with dc fabric, sc blo ribbing, increasing and decreasing, picking up stitches, and seaming.

Sizes

Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL)

To fit bust 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52)" / 86.5–91.5 (96.5–101.5, 106.5–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm

Finished bust: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)" / 96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137) cm, with about 2–4" (5–10 cm) positive ease.

Choose the size whose finished bust is 2–4" (5–10 cm) larger than your actual bust. For a roomier winter layer, go up one size.

Finished Measurements

All measurements are after light blocking.

Materials

Yarn: Worsted weight (CYC 4), wool or wool-blend recommended for warmth.

• Yardage: 1,100 (1,250, 1,450, 1,650, 1,850) yd / 1,006 (1,143, 1,326, 1,509, 1,692) m
• Sample equivalent: 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) skeins of a 197 yd / 180 m worsted, or 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) skeins of a 220 yd / 201 m worsted.
• Allow a little extra if you add the optional mock-neck extension.

Hooks:

• US I/9 (5.5 mm) for the body and sleeves — or size needed to obtain gauge
• US H/8 (5 mm) for all ribbing (hem, cuffs, neckband)

Notions: Tapestry needle, 4 stitch markers, scissors, blocking mats and pins (or a steam iron used with a press cloth).

Gauge

12 dc and 7 rows = 4" (10 cm) in double crochet with US I/9 (5.5 mm) hook, after blocking.

Ribbing gauge (for reference): 16 sc-blo and 16 rows = 4" (10 cm) with US H/8 (5 mm) hook.

Swatch: Ch 20, dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (18 dc). Ch 3, turn. Work 10 rows total. Block, then measure the center 12 sts and 7 rows. Change hook until you match 12 dc = 4" (10 cm). Do not skip this — a half-stitch per inch off becomes 2" (5 cm) on the bust.

Notes

• Instructions are written for S (M, L, XL, 2XL). Highlight your size throughout.
• Ch 3 at the start of a dc row counts as the first dc.
• Ch 1 at the start of a sc row does not count as a stitch.
• All ribbing is worked in single crochet through the back loop only (sc blo) for stretch.
• The pullover is worked flat in four pieces (back, front, two sleeves), then seamed.
• Turn at the end of every row unless told otherwise.
• When a number of stitches is given, it includes the turning-ch-3 as 1 dc.
• Lengths are more important than exact row counts. Work to the stated measurement, then finish the current row.
• Block every piece before seaming.

Abbreviations (US)

• blo — back loop only
• ch — chain
• dc — double crochet
• dc2tog — double crochet 2 together (decrease 1)
• inc — increase (2 dc in the same stitch)
• pm — place marker
• rem — remaining
• rep — repeat
• rnd(s) — round(s)
• RS — right side
• sc — single crochet
• sk — skip
• sl st — slip stitch
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• WS — wrong side

Special stitch — dc2tog: Yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook); yarn over, insert hook in following st, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook); yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. 1 st decreased.

BACK

Hem ribbing

With smaller hook (5 mm), ch 11.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. 10 sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn; sc blo in each sc across. 10 sc.

Rep Row 2 until you have 57 (63, 69, 75, 81) rows of ribbing. The strip should measure about 19 (21, 23, 25, 27)" / 48.5 (53.5, 58.5, 63.5, 68.5) cm along the long edge, slightly stretched. Do not fasten off.

Body

Change to larger hook (5.5 mm). Rotate the ribbing so the long edge is on top (you will work 1 dc into the end of each ribbing row).

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), work 1 dc in the end of each rem ribbing row. 57 (63, 69, 75, 81) dc. (57 dc = 19" ✓; 63 dc = 21" ✓; 69 dc = 23" ✓; 75 dc = 25" ✓; 81 dc = 27" ✓)

Row 2: Ch 3, turn; dc in each dc across. 57 (63, 69, 75, 81) dc.

Rep Row 2 until the piece measures 24 (25, 26, 27, 28)" / 61 (63.5, 66, 68.5, 71) cm from the bottom edge of the ribbing, ending with a WS row. Fasten off, leaving a 24" (61 cm) tail for the shoulder seam.

Place markers 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts in from each side edge to mark the shoulders. The center 21 (23, 25, 27, 29) sts are the back neck. (18 + 21 + 18 = 57 ✓; 20 + 23 + 20 = 63 ✓; 22 + 25 + 22 = 69 ✓; 24 + 27 + 24 = 75 ✓; 26 + 29 + 26 = 81 ✓)

FRONT

Work hem ribbing and body exactly as for the Back until the piece measures 21 (22, 23, 24, 25)" / 53.5 (56, 58.5, 61, 63.5) cm from the bottom edge of the ribbing, ending with a WS row. Neck shaping begins 3" (7.5 cm) before the final length.

Shape left neck (as worn)

Next row (RS): Ch 3, dc in each of next 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) dc. 21 (23, 25, 27, 29) dc. Leave rem sts unworked.

Dec row: Ch 3, turn; dc2tog, dc in each st to end. 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) dc. (1 st decreased at neck)

Rep Dec row 2 more times. 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) dc. (21 − 3 = 18 ✓; 23 − 3 = 20 ✓; 25 − 3 = 22 ✓; 27 − 3 = 24 ✓; 29 − 3 = 26 ✓)

Work even in dc on these 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts until Front matches Back length, ending with a WS row. Fasten off, leaving a 24" (61 cm) tail.

Shape right neck (as worn)

With RS facing, sk the center 15 (17, 19, 21, 23) dc of the last full-width row, join yarn with sl st in the next dc, ch 3 (counts as dc in that st), dc in each st to end. 21 (23, 25, 27, 29) dc. (21 + 15 + 21 = 57 ✓; 23 + 17 + 23 = 63 ✓; 25 + 19 + 25 = 69 ✓; 27 + 21 + 27 = 75 ✓; 29 + 23 + 29 = 81 ✓)

Dec row: Ch 3, turn; dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog. 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) dc.

Rep Dec row 2 more times. 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) dc.

Work even until this shoulder matches the left shoulder and the Back. Fasten off, leaving a 24" (61 cm) tail.

SLEEVES (make 2)

Cuff ribbing

With smaller hook (5 mm), ch 11.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. 10 sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn; sc blo in each sc across. 10 sc.

Rep Row 2 until you have 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) rows. Strip measures about 8 (8¾, 9¼, 10, 10¾)" / 20.5 (22, 23.5, 25.5, 27.5) cm along the long edge, slightly stretched. Do not fasten off.

Sleeve body

Change to larger hook (5.5 mm). Rotate the cuff so the long edge is on top.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, work 1 dc in the end of each rem cuff row. 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) dc. (24 dc = 8" ✓; 26 dc = 8.67" ✓; 28 dc = 9.33" ✓; 30 dc = 10" ✓; 32 dc = 10.67" ✓)

Increase row: Ch 3, turn; 2 dc in first dc (the st at the base of the ch-3 is already the first st — work the extra dc in the same st as the ch-3, or in the next st if you prefer a cleaner edge; be consistent), dc across to last dc, 2 dc in last dc. 2 sts increased.

Work 1 even row of dc.

Rep the last 2 rows (Increase row, then 1 even row) until you have 48 (52, 54, 58, 60) dc. (24 + 12×2 = 48 ✓; 26 + 13×2 = 52 ✓; 28 + 13×2 = 54 ✓; 30 + 14×2 = 58 ✓; 32 + 14×2 = 60 ✓) (48 dc = 16" ✓; 52 dc = 17.33" ✓; 54 dc = 18" ✓; 58 dc = 19.33" ✓; 60 dc = 20" ✓)

Then work even in dc until the sleeve measures 18 (18½, 18½, 19, 19)" / 45.5 (47, 47, 48.5, 48.5) cm from the bottom edge of the cuff, ending with a WS row. Fasten off, leaving a 30" (76 cm) tail for seaming.

If you reach the stitch count before the length, work even to the length. If you reach the length a row or two before the stitch count, work one extra Increase row — a 2-st difference will ease in at the armhole.

FINISHING

Weave in ends that will be trapped in seams; leave seaming tails. Block all four pieces to the measurements in the table. Let dry completely.

Shoulder seams

With RS together, mattress-stitch or whip-stitch each Front shoulder to the matching Back shoulder over 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts (6 (6¾, 7¼, 8, 8¾)" / 15 (17, 18.5, 20.5, 22) cm). The center 21 (23, 25, 27, 29) back-neck sts remain open.

Set in sleeves

Lay the body flat, RS up. From each shoulder seam, measure 8 (8½, 9, 9½, 10)" / 20.5 (21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm down the Front side edge and down the Back side edge; pm at all four points. These markers are the base of the armhole.

Fold a sleeve in half and mark the center of the top edge. Pin that center to the shoulder seam. Pin the sleeve corners to the armhole markers. Ease the sleeve top along the armhole (M and XL have about ⅓" / 1 cm extra to ease — distribute it, do not gather in one spot). Sew with mattress stitch or whip stitch. Repeat for the second sleeve.

Side and underarm seams

Starting at the hem, sew the Front to the Back along the side, then continue in one line down the sleeve underarm to the cuff. Repeat on the other side. The ribbing edges should match; if a row of ribbing wants to flare, take a slightly tighter seam through the ribbing only.

Neckband

With smaller hook (5 mm) and RS facing, join yarn at the left shoulder seam (as worn).

Pick up and sc evenly around the neck as follows:

• 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sc across the left front neck edge (vertical + shaped portion)
• 15 (17, 19, 21, 23) sc across the front neck base
• 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sc across the right front neck edge
• 21 (23, 25, 27, 29) sc across the back neck

Total: 72 (80, 88, 96, 104) sc. (18+15+18+21 = 72 ✓; 20+17+20+23 = 80 ✓; 22+19+22+25 = 88 ✓; 24+21+24+27 = 96 ✓; 26+23+26+29 = 104 ✓)

If your pickup is 1–2 sts off, add or skip on the vertical edges so you land on the number above — the count must be even.

Join with sl st to first sc. Do not turn.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc blo in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc. 72 (80, 88, 96, 104) sc.

Rep Rnd 1 until neckband measures 2" (5 cm) — about 8 rounds.

Optional mock neck (warmer): continue to 3½–4" (9–10 cm), about 14–16 rounds. Wear standing or folded.

Fasten off. Weave in the join tail on the WS.

Final

Weave in any remaining ends. Give seams a light steam (hover the iron; do not crush the dc fabric). Wear.

Schematic (flat measurements)

BACK / FRONT
|<-------- 19 (21, 23, 25, 27)" -------->|
|                                        |
|           hem ribbing 2½"              |
|                                        |
|                                        |  total length
|                                        |  24 (25, 26, 27, 28)"
|                                        |
|         neck drop 3" (front only)      |
|   6 (6¾, 7¼, 8, 8¾)"   7 (7¾, 8¼, 9, 9¾)"   same
|   <-- shoulder --> <-- back neck -->   |
armhole depth 8 (8½, 9, 9½, 10)" down from shoulder

SLEEVE
cuff 8 (8¾, 9¼, 10, 10¾)"  →  top 16 (17¼, 18, 19¼, 20)"
length including cuff 18 (18½, 18½, 19, 19)"

Fit and making notes

• One-week pacing (intermediate): ribbing for all four pieces in an evening; back in 2 sittings; front (with neck) in 2 sittings; both sleeves in 2 sittings; block overnight; seam and neckband on the last day.
• If your row gauge is tighter than 7 rows = 4" (10 cm), you will need more rows to hit the lengths — that is correct. Trust the tape measure.
• The drop-shoulder armhole is a straight side-edge, not a shaped cap. Do not skip stitches at the underarm; the sleeve width is the armhole.
• For a longer tunic, add dc rows before the neck split on Front and to match on Back; add 50–80 yd (46–73 m) per extra inch of body length.
• Fiber: a wool or wool-acrylic blend holds warmth and recovers in the ribbing. 100% cotton will drape more and lose cuff snap.