The Olga Jacket

A worsted-weight, top-down striped cardigan with short-row shoulder slopes, modified drop shoulders, and a round neck. The back yoke is worked first, then each front is worked from picked-up shoulder stitches. Fronts and back are joined at the underarms and the body is worked flat on a circular needle. Sleeves are picked up around the armholes and worked down in the round. Front plackets and neck rib are picked up and worked last.

Designed to be worn with 10–14 cm of positive ease.

Sizes

S (M) L (XL) XXL (XXXL)

To fit bust: 82–90 (92–98) 100–106 (108–116) 118–128 (130–140) cm [32¼–35½ (36¼–38½) 39¼–41¾ (42½–45¾) 46½–50½ (51¼–55) in]

Shown with instructions written for all six sizes. Where only one number is given, it applies to every size.

Finished measurements

Bust buttoned includes overlapping plackets (net +4 cm). Body is straight (no waist shaping).

Materials

Yarn: Worsted weight (approx. 200 m / 100 g), wool or wool-blend.

Two colours:

• Colour A (main): 800 (900) 1000 (1100) 1300 (1500) m — 400 (450) 500 (550) 650 (750) g
• Colour B (contrast): 400 (500) 500 (600) 700 (800) m — 200 (250) 250 (300) 350 (400) g

Allow extra if lengthening the body or sleeves.

Needles

• 4.5 mm circular needle, 80 cm, for yoke, body and sleeves
• 4.5 mm circular needle, 40 cm, or double-pointed needles, for sleeves
• 4 mm circular needle, 80 cm, for hem, cuffs, plackets and neck

Use the needle type you prefer for small-circumference knitting (magic loop, short circular, or DPNs).

Notions

• Stitch markers
• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• Tapestry needle
• Row counter (strongly recommended)
• 6 (6) 7 (7) 7 (8) buttons, 18–20 mm diameter

Tension

20 stitches and 26 rows = 10 × 10 cm in stocking stitch on 4.5 mm needles, after blocking.

Check tension in the stripe pattern (colour changes can tighten rows). Adjust needle size if needed — fit depends on this tension.

Abbreviations

Pattern notes

• Circular needles are used so that a large number of stitches sit comfortably; the back, fronts and body are worked flat (back and forth). Sleeves are worked in the round.
• Read each section before you begin. Short rows, stripes, and neck/armhole shaping are worked at the same time.
• The stripe sequence is never paused for short rows or shaping. Keep a row counter from the first row of the back and restart it at 1 (Colour A) on each front and each sleeve.
• Women’s buttoning: buttonholes sit on the right front as worn. Reverse the buttonhole side for a men’s jacket.
• Length may be adjusted in the body after the underarm join; extra yarn will be needed.
• When picking up stitches, pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows along vertical edges unless a target number is given. If your count is 1–3 stitches off a listed target, skip or pick up extra evenly — rib needs the listed multiple.

Special techniques

Wrap and turn (w&t), knit side: Work to the turning stitch. Slip the next stitch purlwise, bring yarn to the front, return the stitch to the left needle, take yarn to the back, turn.

Wrap and turn, purl side: Work to the turning stitch. Slip the next stitch purlwise, take yarn to the back, return the stitch to the left needle, bring yarn to the front, turn.

Working a wrap on a knit row: Insert the right needle under the wrap from the front, then into the wrapped stitch, and knit wrap and stitch together.

Working a wrap on a purl row: Insert the right needle under the wrap from the back, lift it onto the left needle, and purl wrap and stitch together.

M1: Lift the horizontal strand between the needles from front to back; knit it through the back loop (a closed increase).

Closing a hole at the underarm join: On the join row, work the first and last stitch of each piece firmly. If a gap remains, pick up 1 extra stitch in the gap and decrease it on the next RS row (k2tog or ssk to match the lean).

Stripe sequence

Worked in stocking stitch throughout the yoke, body and sleeves:

• 8 rows Colour A
• 4 rows Colour B
• Repeat these 12 rows.

Begin every piece with Colour A and Row 1 of the sequence. Colour changes always fall on a RS row. Carry the unused colour loosely up the side for the next stripe when it resumes within 8 rows; otherwise cut and weave in later. Plackets, neckband, hem and cuffs are worked in Colour A only.

Back yoke

With 4.5 mm circular needle and Colour A, cast on 76 (80) 84 (90) 96 (102) sts.

Set markers for the shoulders (optional, for reference):

22 (23) 25 (27) 29 (31) shoulder sts, 32 (34) 34 (36) 38 (40) neck sts, 22 (23) 25 (27) 29 (31) shoulder sts.
(22 + 32 + 22 = 76 ✓; 23 + 34 + 23 = 80 ✓; 25 + 34 + 25 = 84 ✓; 27 + 36 + 27 = 90 ✓; 29 + 38 + 29 = 96 ✓; 31 + 40 + 31 = 102 ✓)

Begin stripe sequence on Row 1 (RS) and work short rows at the same time.

Short-row shoulder slope

Short row 1 (RS): K until 18 (19) 20 (22) 24 (25) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 2 (WS): P until 18 (19) 20 (22) 24 (25) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 3: K until 14 (15) 15 (17) 19 (20) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 4: P until 14 (15) 15 (17) 19 (20) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 5: K until 10 (11) 10 (12) 14 (15) sts rems, w&t.

Short row 6: P until 10 (11) 10 (12) 14 (15) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 7: K until 6 (7) 5 (7) 9 (10) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 8: P until 6 (7) 5 (7) 9 (10) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 9: K until 2 (3) 2 (2) 4 (5) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 10: P until 2 (3) 2 (2) 4 (5) sts rem, w&t.

Next row (RS): Knit to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts.

Next row (WS): Purl to end, working remaining wraps tog with wrapped sts.

76 (80) 84 (90) 96 (102) sts.

The centre back is about 4 cm deeper than the shoulder tips.

Armhole increases

Keeping stripes correct, shape the armholes:

Increase row (RS): K1, M1, k to last st, M1, k1. (2 sts inc)

Work this Increase row on the next RS row, then on every foll 4th (4th) 4th (3rd) 3rd (2nd) row 9 (11) 13 (15) 18 (21) times more.

10 (12) 14 (16) 19 (22) increases each side → 76 + 20 = 96 (80 + 24 = 104) (84 + 28 = 112) (90 + 32 = 122) (96 + 38 = 134) (102 + 44 = 146) sts ✓

When all increases are complete, cont even in stripe-pattern st st until the armhole edge (shoulder tip) measures 19 (20) 21 (22) 23 (24) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. Centre back will measure about 4 cm more.

Place 96 (104) 112 (122) 134 (146) sts on a holder. Break yarns, leaving a tail.

Left front (as worn)

The left front is the wearer’s left. With RS of back facing, 4.5 mm needle and Colour A, pick up and knit 22 (23) 25 (27) 29 (31) sts along the left shoulder cast-on edge, working from the armhole towards the neck.

Begin stripe sequence with Colour A, Row 1. RS rows run from armhole (beg) to neck (end).

Short-row shoulder (left)

Short row 1 (WS): P until 18 (19) 20 (22) 24 (25) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 2 (RS): K to end.

Short row 3: P until 14 (15) 15 (17) 19 (20) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 4: K to end.

Short row 5: P until 10 (11) 10 (12) 14 (15) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 6: K to end.

Short row 7: P until 6 (7) 5 (7) 9 (10) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 8: K to end.

Short row 9: P until 2 (3) 2 (2) 4 (5) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 10: K to end.

Next row (WS): Purl to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts.

22 (23) 25 (27) 29 (31) sts.

Shape neck and armhole (left) — AT THE SAME TIME

Keep stripes correct. Both shapings start on the next RS row.

Armhole (beg of RS rows): K1, M1, work to end of the armhole instruction. Inc 1 st at the armhole edge of the next RS row, then every foll 4th (4th) 4th (3rd) 3rd (2nd) row 9 (11) 13 (15) 18 (21) times more.
10 (12) 14 (16) 19 (22) armhole increases.

Neck (end of RS rows, and also beg of WS rows while working “every row” increases): Inc 1 st at the neck edge of every row 4 (5) 5 (6) 7 (8) times, then of every RS row 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 (8) times.
12 (13) 13 (14) 15 (16) neck increases.

Work neck increases as M1, k1 at the neck end of a RS row, and as p1, M1-purl (lift strand from front to back and purl through the back loop) at the neck beg of a WS row.

Tip: Neck shaping finishes first. After the last neck increase, continue only the remaining armhole increases, then work even.

When all increases are complete:
22 + 10 + 12 = 44 (23 + 12 + 13 = 48) (25 + 14 + 13 = 52) (27 + 16 + 14 = 57) (29 + 19 + 15 = 63) (31 + 22 + 16 = 69) sts ✓

Cont even in stripe-pattern st st until the armhole edge measures 19 (20) 21 (22) 23 (24) cm from the pick-up, matching the back, ending with a WS row.

Place sts on a holder. Break yarns.

Right front (as worn)

The right front is the wearer’s right. With RS of back facing, 4.5 mm needle and Colour A, pick up and knit 22 (23) 25 (27) 29 (31) sts along the right shoulder cast-on edge, working from the neck towards the armhole.

Begin stripe sequence with Colour A, Row 1. RS rows run from neck (beg) to armhole (end).

Short-row shoulder (right)

Short row 1 (WS): Purl to end.

Short row 2 (RS): K until 18 (19) 20 (22) 24 (25) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 3: P to end.

Short row 4: K until 14 (15) 15 (17) 19 (20) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 5: P to end.

Short row 6: K until 10 (11) 10 (12) 14 (15) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 7: P to end.

Short row 8: K until 6 (7) 5 (7) 9 (10) sts rem, w&t.

Short row 9: P to end.

Short row 10: K until 2 (3) 2 (2) 4 (5) sts rem, w&t.

Next row (WS): Purl to end.

Next row (RS): Knit to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts.

Next row (WS): Purl to end.

22 (23) 25 (27) 29 (31) sts.

Shape neck and armhole (right) — AT THE SAME TIME

Keep stripes correct. Both shapings start on the next RS row. This front is the mirror of the left.

Neck (beg of RS rows, and also end of WS rows while working “every row” increases): Inc 1 st at the neck edge of every row 4 (5) 5 (6) 7 (8) times, then of every RS row 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 (8) times.
12 (13) 13 (14) 15 (16) neck increases.

Work neck increases as k1, M1 at the neck beg of a RS row, and as M1-purl, p1 at the neck end of a WS row.

Armhole (end of RS rows): Work to last st, M1, k1. Inc 1 st at the armhole edge of the next RS row, then every foll 4th (4th) 4th (3rd) 3rd (2nd) row 9 (11) 13 (15) 18 (21) times more.
10 (12) 14 (16) 19 (22) armhole increases.

When all increases are complete: 44 (48) 52 (57) 63 (69) sts ✓

Cont even until the armhole edge measures 19 (20) 21 (22) 23 (24) cm from the pick-up, matching the back and left front, ending with a WS row.

Leave sts on the needle. Do not break yarn if it is Colour A and you are at a convenient join; otherwise break and rejoin Colour A (or the colour required by the stripe sequence) for the join row.

Join for body

Return the held back sts, then the held left-front sts, to the 4.5 mm needle so that, with RS facing, the order is:

Right front — Back — Left front

44 (48) 52 (57) 63 (69) + 96 (104) 112 (122) 134 (146) + 44 (48) 52 (57) 63 (69) = 184 (200) 216 (236) 260 (284) sts ✓

Join row (RS): Work in stripe-pattern st st across the right-front sts, pm (right underarm), across the back sts, pm (left underarm), across the left-front sts. Pull the joins snug.

You should now have a single row of 184 (200) 216 (236) 260 (284) sts, with the two front openings at the two ends of the needle.

Body

Cont even in stripe-pattern st st (back and forth) until the body measures 32 (33) 34 (35) 36 (37) cm from the underarm join, ending with a WS row.

(Shoulder tip to this point: 19 + 32 = 51 cm for S; 20 + 33 = 53 cm for M; 21 + 34 = 55 cm for L; 22 + 35 = 57 cm for XL; 23 + 36 = 59 cm for XXL; 24 + 37 = 61 cm for XXXL. Hem rib will add 5 cm.)

If possible, end after a complete 12-row stripe, or after a Colour A stripe, so the hem sits neatly.

Next row (RS), Colour A: K1, M1, k to last st, M1, k1.
186 (202) 218 (238) 262 (286) sts (4n + 2 ✓)

Hem

Change to 4 mm circular needle and Colour A.

Rib row 1 (WS): P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Rib row 2 (RS): K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.

These two rows form 2×2 rib with k2 at both front edges. Rep them until the hem measures 5 cm, ending with a WS row.

Cast off in rib on the RS, keeping the edge elastic (use a larger needle to cast off if your cast-off is tight).

Total length from shoulder tip: 56 (58) 60 (62) 64 (66) cm ✓

Sleeves

Work both sleeves alike. Stripes continue; begin with Colour A unless you prefer to match the body stripe at the underarm (recommended).

With RS facing, 4.5 mm needle and the chosen colour, beginning at the centre of the underarm, pick up and knit:

72 (76) 82 (90) 98 (108) sts evenly around the armhole.

Distribution guide: 34 (36) 38 (42) 45 (50) sts up the front armhole edge, 4 (4) 6 (6) 8 (8) sts across the underarm, 34 (36) 38 (42) 45 (50) sts down the back armhole edge.
(34 + 4 + 34 = 72 ✓; 36 + 4 + 36 = 76 ✓; 38 + 6 + 38 = 82 ✓; 42 + 6 + 42 = 90 ✓; 45 + 8 + 45 = 98 ✓; 50 + 8 + 50 = 108 ✓)

Pm for beg of round at the underarm. Join to work in the round.

Knit 1 round, then cont in stripe-pattern stocking stitch (knit every round).

Jogless stripe (optional): On the first round of a new colour, knit the round. On the second round of that colour, slip the first stitch purlwise with yarn in back, then knit to end.

Sleeve decreases

Work 4 rounds even.

Decrease round: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (2 sts dec)

Rep the Decrease round every 6th (6th) 5th (4th) 3rd (3rd) round 15 (15) 18 (20) 24 (27) times more.

16 (16) 19 (21) 25 (28) decrease rounds → 72 − 32 = 40 (76 − 32 = 44) (82 − 38 = 44) (90 − 42 = 48) (98 − 50 = 48) (108 − 56 = 52) sts ✓

When the cuff count is reached, cont even until the sleeve measures 39 (39) 38 (38) 37 (36) cm from the pick-up.

Cuff

Change to 4 mm needles and Colour A.

Work 2×2 rib in the round: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Cont until the cuff measures 5 cm.

Cast off in rib.

Sleeve length to underarm: 44 (44) 43 (43) 42 (41) cm ✓

Work the second sleeve to match, using the same stripe start as the first.

Front plackets and neck rib

Worked in one piece in Colour A, from picked-up stitches, on the 4 mm circular needle.

With RS facing and Colour A, beginning at the lower right-front hem (as worn):

Pick up and knit along the right front edge, around the neck, and down the left front edge as follows:

(89 + 14 + 32 + 14 + 89 = 238 ✓; 95 + 15 + 34 + 15 + 95 = 254 ✓; 101 + 15 + 34 + 15 + 101 = 266 ✓; 107 + 16 + 36 + 16 + 107 = 282 ✓; 115 + 17 + 38 + 17 + 115 = 302 ✓; 123 + 18 + 40 + 18 + 123 = 322 ✓)

All totals are 4n + 2, so both hem ends of the band begin and end on k2.

If your row count differs, pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows on the fronts and 1 st per stitch on the back neck, then adjust by skipping or adding 1–3 sts so the total matches the size.

Place a marker at each corner where the front edge meets the neck curve, and at each end of the back neck. These are turning points of the neckline; pick up 1 extra stitch in each corner if a hole appears, and decrease it on the next RS row.

Rib row 1 (WS): P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Rib row 2 (RS): K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.

Work 3 rows of rib in total, ending with a WS row.

Buttonholes

Buttonholes are worked on the right front (the first section of the band, from the hem up), on the next RS row.

Mark the positions of 6 (6) 7 (7) 7 (8) buttons on the left-front band: the lowest 1.5 cm from the hem, the highest in the neck rib just below the back-neck level, and the remainder spaced evenly between. Transfer those spacings to the right-front stitches.

Buttonhole row (RS): Work in rib as set, and at each marked position work (yo, k2tog) if that position falls on a k2 column, or (yo, p2tog) if it falls on a p2 column. The yarn-over sits in the following row as a new stitch, keeping the count unchanged.

Cont in rib until the band measures 4 cm from the pick-up, ending with a WS row.

Cast off in rib on the RS, firmly enough to sit flat but not so tightly that the fronts pull.

Finishing

1. Weave in all ends on the WS, closing any underarm gaps as you go.
2. Soak the jacket in lukewarm water with a little wool wash. Roll in a towel to remove excess water. Lay flat to the finished measurements, smoothing the stripes so they run horizontally. Allow to dry completely.
3. Sew buttons to the left-front band opposite the buttonholes.
4. Check sleeve stripe alignment; if one sleeve was started on a different stripe row, the mismatch is usually only visible at the underarm.

Optional length notes

• Body: Add or remove complete 12-row stripe repeats after the underarm join. Each repeat is about 4.5 cm.
• Sleeves: Adjust even rounds after decreases are complete; keep at least 2 cm of stocking stitch above the cuff.

Schematic (key dimensions)

        back neck 16 (17) 17 (18) 19 (20) cm
     |<-------------------------------->|
     .-----------------------------------.
    /         short-row shoulders         \
   /  11 (11.5) 12.5 (13.5) 14.5 (15.5) cm \
  |                                         |
  | armhole 19 (20) 21 (22) 23 (24) cm      |
  |                                         |
  |        bust 96 (104) 112 (122) 134 (146)|
  |                                         |
  |  length 56 (58) 60 (62) 64 (66) cm      |
  |                                         |
   \_______________________________________/

  Sleeve upper arm 36 (38) 41 (45) 49 (54) cm
  Sleeve length    44 (44) 43 (43) 42 (41) cm

Technical notes: All listed stitch counts were checked against the tension of 20 sts = 10 cm. Body fabric at underarm is 92 (100) 108 (118) 130 (142) cm; overlapping 4 cm plackets bring the buttoned bust to 96 (104) 112 (122) 134 (146) cm. Hem and neckband counts are 4n + 2 so that 2×2 rib presents knit columns at both openings.