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# The Dragon's Path Kung Fu Jacket

*An intermediate-level kimono-style jacket worked flat in worsted weight yarn, featuring a textured "dragon scale" panel running down the centre back, traditional frog-toggle closures, and a Mandarin folded collar. The boxy T-shape and dropped shoulders create an authentic kung fu silhouette with generous, drapey ease.*

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## Sizes

S/M (L/XL, 2XL/3XL)

### Finished Measurements
| Measurement | S/M | L/XL | 2XL/3XL |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bust circumference | 112 cm (44 in) | 126 cm (49½ in) | 154 cm (60½ in) |
| Body length (hem to shoulder) | 70 cm (27½ in) | 72 cm (28¼ in) | 74 cm (29 in) |
| Sleeve length (shoulder to cuff) | 45 cm (17¾ in) | 47 cm (18½ in) | 49 cm (19¼ in) |
| Sleeve width (at cuff and upper arm) | 35 cm (13¾ in) | 38 cm (15 in) | 40 cm (15¾ in) |

Designed with 12–18 cm (5–7 in) positive ease.

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight wool or wool-blend, approximately:
  - S/M: 1100 m (1200 yds)
  - L/XL: 1300 m (1420 yds)
  - 2XL/3XL: 1550 m (1700 yds)
  - *Recommended: a smooth, slightly lustrous worsted (e.g. merino/silk blend) in a deep colour such as charcoal, oxblood, or imperial black.*
- **Needles:** 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) straight or circular needles; 4.5 mm (UK 7 / US 7) needles for collar and bands.
- **Notions:** Tapestry needle, stitch markers, 4 pairs of frog/toggle closures, sewing needle and thread.

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## Tension (Gauge)

- **20 sts × 28 rows = 10 cm (4 in)** in stocking stitch on 5 mm needles, after blocking.
- Dragon Scale panel: 24 sts × 28 rows ≈ 10 cm (panel pulls in slightly; this is accounted for in stitch counts).

*Take time to check your tension — accurate sizing depends on it.*

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## Abbreviations (UK)

- **k** — knit
- **p** — purl
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **st st** — stocking stitch (k on RS, p on WS)
- **g st** — garter stitch (k every row)
- **k2tog** — knit two stitches together
- **ssk** — slip, slip, knit those two together
- **yo** — yarn over
- **sl1** — slip one stitch purlwise
- **RS / WS** — right side / wrong side
- **rep** — repeat

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## Special Stitch Pattern: Dragon Scale Panel

*Worked over 23 sts and 8 rows. Centre this panel on the back.*

- **Row 1 (RS):** k1, *k2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssk, k1; rep from * once more, k0.
- **Row 2 (WS):** purl.
- **Row 3 (RS):** k.
- **Row 4 (WS):** purl.
- **Row 5 (RS):** k6, *k2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssk*, k1.  *(shifted scale)*
- **Row 6 (WS):** purl.
- **Row 7 (RS):** k.
- **Row 8 (WS):** purl.

Rep Rows 1–8 for Dragon Scale Panel. Stitch count remains 23 throughout (each k2tog paired with yo–yo balanced by ssk).

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## Back (worked first)

With 5 mm needles, cast on **112 (126, 154) sts**.

*Maths check: 112 sts ÷ 20 sts per 10 cm = 56 cm × 2 sides = 112 cm finished bust ✓*

**Hem border:**
- Rows 1–10: work in g st (k every row), slipping the first st of every row purlwise for a tidy edge.

**Set up Dragon Scale Panel (RS):**
- Row 11 (RS): sl1, k to centre, place marker, work Row 1 of Dragon Scale Panel over next 23 sts, place marker, k to end.

  - Sts before first marker: **(112 − 23) ÷ 2 = 44.5** → use **44 sts** before, **45 sts** after for S/M.
  - L/XL: 51 sts before, 52 sts after.
  - 2XL/3XL: 65 sts before, 66 sts after.

- Row 12 (WS): sl1, p to marker, work Row 2 of panel, p to last st, k1.

Continue as set: stocking stitch each side of the centre 23-st Dragon Scale Panel, slipping first st of every row.

Work straight until piece measures **70 (72, 74) cm** from cast-on, ending after a WS row.

Cast off all sts loosely.

*Maths check: 70 cm × 28 rows per 10 cm = 196 rows total. ✓*

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## Left Front

With 5 mm needles, cast on **56 (63, 77) sts**.

*Maths check: 56 + 56 = 112 sts = back width ✓*

- Rows 1–10: g st, slipping first st of every row.
- Row 11 (RS): sl1, k to end.
- Row 12 (WS): sl1, p to last st, k1.

Continue in st st (with slipped-st selvedge) until piece measures **60 (62, 64) cm**, ending after a RS row.

**Shape neckline (slight angle, kimono style):**
- Next row (WS): cast off **6 sts** at neck edge, p to last st, k1. *(50 (57, 71) sts rem)*
- Dec row (RS): sl1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(1 st dec at neck edge)*
- Work 3 rows straight.
- Rep last 4 rows **4 more times**. *(45 (52, 66) sts rem)*

Work straight until piece measures **70 (72, 74) cm**, matching back length, ending after a WS row.

Cast off loosely.

*Maths check: shoulder width = 45 sts ÷ 20 × 10 = 22.5 cm; back shoulder span 44 sts on each side of panel = 22 cm. Close match ✓ (small ease absorbed in seaming).*

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## Right Front

Work as Left Front, **reversing all shaping** — i.e. cast off neck sts at the beginning of a RS row, and work the decrease as: sl1, k1, ssk, k to end.

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## Sleeves (make 2)

With 5 mm needles, cast on **70 (76, 80) sts**.

*Maths check: 70 sts ÷ 20 × 10 = 35 cm sleeve width ✓ — NO tapering, NO increases.*

- Rows 1–12: g st, slipping first st of every row (deep cuff).
- Row 13 (RS): sl1, k to end.
- Row 14 (WS): sl1, p to last st, k1.

Continue in st st with slipped-st selvedge until sleeve measures **45 (47, 49) cm** from cast-on, ending after a WS row.

Cast off loosely.

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## Assembly

**Block all pieces** to measurements before seaming. This is critical for opening up the drape and aligning the dragon scale motif.

1. **Shoulder seams:** With RS together, seam the shoulders of the back to the fronts using mattress stitch along a straight horizontal line. The back-neck width (centre 22 sts of back) is left unseamed for the collar pickup.
2. **Attach sleeves:** Lay the body flat. Mark the centre of each sleeve's cast-off edge. Pin this centre to the shoulder seam. Pin the sleeve flat along the body — it will extend **17.5 (19, 20) cm** down each side from the shoulder seam. Seam in place at right angles (T-shape).
3. **Side and sleeve seams:** Starting at the hem, seam up the body to the underarm, then continue along the sleeve underseam to the cuff. Repeat on second side.
4. Weave in all ends.

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## Mandarin Collar

With 4.5 mm needles and RS facing, beginning at the right front neck edge:
- Pick up and knit **8 sts** up the right front neck shaping, **22 sts** across the back neck, and **8 sts** down the left front neck shaping. *(38 sts total)*
- Work in g st, slipping first st of every row, for **6 cm (2½ in)**.
- Cast off loosely.

The collar will fold naturally to form a small stand-up Mandarin shape.

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## Front Bands

With 4.5 mm needles and RS facing, pick up and knit sts evenly along each front edge from hem to collar at a rate of **3 sts per 4 rows** (approximately **140 (144, 148) sts** along each front).

Work in g st, slipping first st of every row, for **3 cm (1¼ in)**. Cast off loosely.

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## Finishing — Frog Closures

1. Lay the jacket flat with fronts overlapping slightly (right over left, traditional style).
2. Mark **4 evenly spaced points** along the right front band, beginning **3 cm** below the collar and ending **3 cm** above the hem.
3. Stitch one half of each frog closure to the right front (button/knot side) and the corresponding loop side to the left front, using sewing thread and a sharp needle.
4. Gently steam-block the finished jacket, paying particular attention to the dragon scale panel to set the texture.

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## Final Measurement Check

- Bust: 2 × (front width + front width + back width − overlaps) — measured flat, the back rectangle defines the bust: **112 (126, 154) cm** ✓
- Total sleeve span (cuff to cuff across back): 35 + 112 + 35 = **182 cm** for S/M (worn with dropped shoulders) ✓
- Body length matches across all pieces at **70 (72, 74) cm** ✓

*Wear your Dragon's Path Jacket loose and open for flow, or sashed at the waist with a contrast belt for a more structured silhouette. The scale panel will reveal itself most beautifully after a thorough blocking.*