purlJam

<pattern>

# TUNISIAN ENTRELAC TRENCH COAT

A sophisticated full-length trench coat featuring the mesmerizing woven texture of Tunisian entrelac. This modular design creates stunning visual interest through directional changes in the Tunisian simple stitch. The classic silhouette includes a flattering shawl collar, optional self-belt, and full-length sleeves perfect for layering.

**Difficulty Level:** Intermediate

## SIZES
Women's S (M, L, XL, 2XL)

**Finished Measurements:**
- Bust (closed): 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)"
- Length (from shoulder): 36"
- Sleeve length: 18"

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
- Worsted weight yarn (#4 Medium)
- Yardage: 2400 (2600, 2800, 3000, 3200) yards
- Suggested: Lion Brand Wool-Ease or similar worsted weight with good stitch definition
- Sample shown in Charcoal Gray

**Hook:**
- US Size J/10 (6.0mm) Tunisian crochet hook, minimum 14" long (or longer double-ended hook recommended)
- US Size I/9 (5.5mm) regular crochet hook (for edging and belt loops)

**Notions:**
- Yarn needle for weaving in ends
- Stitch markers
- Measuring tape
- Blocking pins (optional but helpful)
- 5 buttons, ¾" diameter (optional for decorative front closure)

## GAUGE

**Block Gauge (critical for proper fit):**
One entrelac block in Tunisian simple stitch = 4" x 4" square
Each block = 16 sts x 16 rows

To check gauge: Work one complete base block following instructions. Block should measure exactly 4" square after light blocking. Adjust hook size if necessary.

## ABBREVIATIONS
- ch = chain
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- Tss = Tunisian simple stitch
- fwd pass = forward pass (picking up loops)
- ret pass = return pass (working off loops)
- yo = yarn over
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- pm = place marker
- sk = skip

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Tunisian Crochet Basics**: Each row consists of two passes - a forward pass where loops are picked up and remain on hook, and a return pass where loops are worked off. One forward pass + one return pass = 1 row.

2. **Block Construction**: This pattern uses entrelac technique where rectangular blocks are worked in different directions. Base blocks are worked first, then subsequent tiers pick up stitches from previous blocks.

3. **Direction**: All blocks are worked with RS facing. The entrelac effect comes from the directional change of stitches.

4. **Stitch Count**: Each block maintains 16 sts throughout. Count sts on hook after forward pass to verify.

5. **Joining**: Blocks are joined as you work by picking up stitches along edges of previous blocks.

6. **Fit**: Coat is designed with approximately 2-4" positive ease for comfortable layering.

7. **Customization**: Length can be adjusted by adding or removing tiers of blocks (each tier adds/removes 4" to length).

## SPECIAL STITCHES

**Tunisian Simple Stitch (Tss):**
- Fwd pass: Insert hook from right to left under front vertical bar, yo, pull up loop (loop remains on hook). Repeat across.
- Ret pass: Yo, pull through 1 loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops; repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.

**Base Block (worked bottom to top):**
Foundation: Ch 16.
Row 1 (Fwd): Keeping all loops on hook, insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, yo, pull up loop, *insert hook in next ch, yo, pull up loop; repeat from * across. (16 loops on hook)
Row 1 (Ret): Yo, pull through 1 loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops; repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.
Rows 2-16 (Fwd): Skip first vertical bar, *insert hook under next vertical bar, yo, pull up loop; repeat from * across. (16 loops on hook)
Rows 2-16 (Ret): Yo, pull through 1 loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops; repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook.
After Row 16, sl st in each vertical bar across to bind off. Fasten off.

**Right-Leaning Block (picks up sts from left side of previous block):**
Setup: With RS facing, join yarn at bottom left corner of previous block.
Row 1 (Fwd): Insert hook under edge st of previous block (going under both loops of the edge), yo, pull up loop, *ch 1, insert hook under next edge st going up the side, yo, pull up loop; repeat from * 14 more times. (16 loops on hook - alternating picked-up loops and chains)
Row 1 (Ret): Yo, pull through 1 loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops; repeat from * until 1 loop remains.
Row 2 (Fwd): Skip first vertical bar, *insert hook under next vertical bar (or into ch-sp from previous row), yo, pull up loop; repeat from * 14 more times, insert hook under top edge st of previous block (joining stitch), yo, pull up loop. (16 loops on hook)
Row 2 (Ret): Work as standard ret pass.
Rows 3-16: Repeat Row 2 (each fwd pass ends by picking up final loop from edge of previous block, creating the join).
After Row 16, sl st across to bind off. Fasten off.

**Left-Leaning Block (picks up sts from right side of previous block):**
Setup: With RS facing, join yarn at top right corner of previous block.
Row 1 (Fwd): Insert hook under edge st of previous block, yo, pull up loop, *ch 1, insert hook under next edge st going down the side, yo, pull up loop; repeat from * 14 more times. (16 loops on hook)
Row 1 (Ret): Standard ret pass.
Row 2 (Fwd): Skip first vertical bar, insert hook under bottom edge st of previous block (joining st), yo, pull up loop, *insert hook under next vertical bar, yo, pull up loop; repeat from * 14 more times. (16 loops on hook)
Row 2 (Ret): Standard ret pass.
Rows 3-16: Repeat Row 2 (each fwd pass begins by picking up first loop from edge of previous block).
After Row 16, sl st across to bind off. Fasten off.

## INSTRUCTIONS

### BACK PANEL

**Tier 1 (Base Tier):**
Work 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) Base Blocks, leaving them unjoined.
Lay blocks side by side (each block = 4" wide).
Back width = 20 (20, 24, 24, 28)"

**Tier 2:**
Block 1: Work Right-Leaning Block picking up sts from left edge of first base block.
Blocks 2-5 (2-5, 2-6, 2-6, 2-7): Work Left-Leaning Block on next base block, then work Right-Leaning Block picking up from left edge of block just completed. Continue across.
(5 (5, 6, 6, 7) blocks completed)

**Tiers 3-9:**
Repeat Tier 2 pattern (alternating Right-Leaning and Left-Leaning blocks) for 7 more tiers.
Total: 9 tiers = 36" length.

### LEFT FRONT PANEL

**Tier 1 (Base Tier):**
Work 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) Base Blocks.
Left front width = 12 (12, 12, 16, 16)"

**Tiers 2-6:**
Continue in entrelac pattern same as back.
Work 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) blocks per tier.

**Tier 7 (Neck Shaping - Decrease Tier):**
Block 1: Work Right-Leaning Block.
Blocks 2-3 (2-3, 2-3, 2-4, 2-4): Continue pattern.
Last block: Work only 12 rows instead of 16 for shoulder slope.
(3 (3, 3, 4, 4) blocks, last block shorter)

**Tier 8:**
Work 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) blocks in pattern (omit one block at neck edge).

**Tier 9:**
Work 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) blocks in pattern, matching Tier 8.

### RIGHT FRONT PANEL

Work as mirror image of Left Front Panel.

**Tier 1 (Base Tier):**
Work 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) Base Blocks.

**Tiers 2-9:**
Work as for Left Front, reversing neck shaping on opposite edge.

### SLEEVES (make 2)

**Tier 1 (Base Tier - Cuff):**
Work 3 Base Blocks.
Width = 12" (fits all sizes)

**Tier 2:**
Work 3 blocks in entrelac pattern.

**Tier 3 (Increase Tier):**
Work 4 blocks in pattern (add 1 block for shaping).
Width = 16"

**Tier 4:**
Work 4 blocks in pattern.

**Tier 5 (Increase Tier):**
Size S/M: Work 4 blocks
Size L/XL/2XL: Work 5 blocks
Width = 16 (16, 20, 20, 20)"

**Note:** For partial blocks at underarm, work proportionally fewer rows to create tapered edge.

### ASSEMBLY

1. **Block pieces:** Lightly steam block all pieces to measurements. Entrelac naturally creates texture; don't over-block.

2. **Shoulder seams:** With yarn needle and yarn, whipstitch or mattress stitch shoulder seams, matching blocks. Leave center back blocks unjoined for collar.
   - Join 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) blocks on each shoulder.

3. **Side seams:** Join side seams from bottom edge to armhole (6 tiers = 24").

4. **Set in sleeves:** 
   - Mark center top of sleeve.
   - Pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam.
   - Pin sleeve evenly into armhole opening.
   - Seam sleeve to body using mattress stitch or whipstitch.

5. **Sleeve seams:** Sew sleeve seams from cuff to underarm.

### SHAWL COLLAR

With RS facing and regular crochet hook I/9 (5.5mm), join yarn at right front bottom edge.

**Setup Row:** Sc evenly up right front edge, across back neck edge, and down left front edge. Work approximately 3 sc per block edge (about 27 sc up each front, 20 sc across back neck). Total approximately 74 sc. Ch 1, turn.

**Switch to Tunisian hook J/10 (6.0mm):**

**Row 1 (Fwd):** Keeping all loops on hook, insert hook in 2nd ch from hook (or 2nd sc), yo, pull up loop, *insert hook in next sc, yo, pull up loop; repeat from * across.
**Row 1 (Ret):** Standard ret pass.

**Rows 2-12:** Work in Tss (Tunisian simple stitch) for 12 more rows (collar will measure approximately 3" wide).

**Row 13:** Sl st in each vertical bar across to bind off. Fasten off.

Fold collar to desired position and tack lightly at shoulder seams if needed.

### BELT (Optional)

With Tunisian hook J/10, ch 12.

**Row 1:** Work Tss across. (12 sts)
**Rows 2-150:** Continue in Tss until belt measures 60" (or desired length).
Bind off.

Weave belt through belt loops or tie at waist.

### BELT LOOPS (Optional)

With regular hook I/9 and yarn, create 4 belt loops:
Position at side seams at waist level (approximately 18" from bottom edge).

**For each loop:**
Join yarn, ch 8, sl st to same position to form loop. Fasten off.

### EDGING (Optional but recommended)

With regular hook I/9 and RS facing, work 1 round of sc around entire front opening and bottom edge for a clean finish:

Join yarn at any corner, sc evenly around working 3 sc in each corner. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

### BUTTON BAND (Optional)

If adding buttons for decorative closure:

**Right front (for women):** Mark 5 evenly spaced positions along front edge.
With regular hook I/9, join yarn at marked position.
Row 1: Ch 3 (for buttonhole), sl st back to same position. Fasten off.
Repeat for remaining 4 positions.

**Left front:** Sew buttons to correspond with buttonholes.

## FINISHING

1. Weave in all ends securely.

2. Steam block collar if needed to lie flat.

3. Try on coat and mark desired button placement if adding closures.

4. Optional: Add purchased frog closures or decorative pin for front closure instead of buttons.

## CUSTOMIZATION OPTIONS

**Length:** Add or remove tiers of blocks (each tier = 4").

**Width:** Add or remove blocks in base tier (each block = 4" width).

**Sleeves:** For 3/4 sleeves, work only 3 tiers of blocks