purlJam

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# WILLOW LACE CARDIGAN
### A Women's Machine-Knit Lace Cardigan in DK Weight

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## DESCRIPTION

The Willow Lace Cardigan is an elegant, intermediate-level machine knitting project featuring an all-over eyelet lace body, set-in sleeves, and a tidy 1×1 ribbed edging. Knitted flat in five separate panels on a standard-gauge (4.5mm) machine, the open lace fabric creates a beautifully draping layering piece. The cardigan closes with a simple button band and features a shallow V-neck or rounded neckline (instructions for both given). Lace is worked by manual transfer on all machines; punchcard notes are included for compatible machines.

---

## SIZES

| Size | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Finished Bust** | 34 in (86 cm) | 36 in (91 cm) | 38 in (97 cm) | 42 in (107 cm) | 46 in (117 cm) |
| **Finished Length** | 22 in (56 cm) | 22 in (56 cm) | 22.5 in (57 cm) | 23 in (58 cm) | 23 in (58 cm) |
| **Sleeve Length** | 17 in (43 cm) | 17 in (43 cm) | 17.5 in (44 cm) | 18 in (46 cm) | 18 in (46 cm) |
| **Upper Arm** | 13 in (33 cm) | 13.5 in (34 cm) | 14 in (36 cm) | 14.5 in (37 cm) | 15 in (38 cm) |

*Instructions are written for XS; changes for S, M, L, XL appear in parentheses (S, M, L, XL). Where a single number appears, it applies to all sizes.*

---

## MATERIALS

| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| **Yarn** | DK weight / Light Worsted (#3), 100% merino or merino blend recommended for blocking |
| **Yardage** | 1,050(1,150, 1,250, 1,400, 1,550) yds / 960(1,050, 1,145, 1,280, 1,420) m |
| **Color** | 1 Main Color (MC) only |
| **Buttons** | 5(5, 5, 6, 6) × ¾ in (20mm) buttons |
| **Machine** | Standard gauge 4.5mm (Brother, Silver Reed, Passap) |
| **Ribber** | Required for 1×1 rib edging (optional: work rib by hand or use mock rib) |
| **Punchcard** | Optional; lace pattern can be worked manually with transfer tool |
| **Notions** | Cast-on comb, ravel cord, set of transfer tools (1-pt, 3-pt), latch tool, yarn bobbins, stitch markers, blunt tapestry needle, blocking wires and pins |

---

## TENSION / GAUGE

> **Always knit a tension swatch before starting. Lace fabric opens up significantly after washing and blocking.**

| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| **Main Bed Tension (Stockinette)** | T7 |
| **Lace Transfer Rows** | T6 (one half-step tighter to prevent dropped stitches during transfer) |
| **Ribber Tension** | T6 / T6 (main bed / ribber) |
| **Gauge — Stockinette (pre-block)** | 22 sts × 30 rows = 4 in (10 cm) |
| **Gauge — Lace (after wet blocking)** | 21 sts × 28 rows = 4 in (10 cm) |

*All pattern calculations are based on the **blocked lace gauge**: 21 sts and 28 rows per 4 inches.*
*Conversion: 1 stitch = 0.190 in; 1 row = 0.143 in*

### Swatch Instructions
Cast on 40 sts with waste yarn over ravel cord. Knit 10 rows stockinette at T7, then work 40 rows of Willow Lace Pattern (see Lace Pattern section). Knit 10 rows stockinette at T7. Bind off or unravel from ravel cord. Wet block swatch by soaking 20 minutes in cool water, pressing out excess water, pinning to measurements, and allowing to dry completely. Measure 4 in (10 cm) in the center of the lace section.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS & MACHINE KNITTING TERMS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **COL** | Carriage on Left |
| **COR** | Carriage on Right |
| **EON** | Every Other Needle |
| **HP** | Hold Position (needles pushed back to D/Hold position) |
| **K** | Knit (one carriage pass) |
| **K2T** | Knit 2 Together (via transfer) |
| **MC** | Main Color yarn |
| **MT** | Main Tension (T7 unless otherwise stated) |
| **N/Ns** | Needle/Needles |
| **RC** | Row Counter |
| **RC 000** | Reset row counter to zero |
| **St/Sts** | Stitch/Stitches |
| **T#** | Tension dial number |
| **UWY** | Using Waste Yarn |
| **WY** | Waste Yarn |
| **YO** | Yarn Over (empty needle left in work to create eyelet) |
| **CO** | Cast On |
| **BO** | Bind Off |
| **EON** | Every Other Needle |
| **1×1 Rib** | Alternate needles on main bed and ribber |
| **Set-in Sleeve** | Sleeve cap shaped to fit armhole |
| **Transfer Tool** | Hand tool to move stitches between needles for lace |

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Machine Compatibility**: This pattern is written for a standard-gauge (4.5mm) machine. The lace is worked by manually transferring stitches with a 1-point transfer tool. If using a Brother punchcard machine, the Willow Lace stitch can be adapted to a 24-stitch punchcard (see Punchcard Note below).

2. **Lace Transfers**: Always transfer stitches with carriage set to **Slip (S/S or N/L on ribber)** so the carriage does not accidentally knit over empty needles before you are ready. After transfers are complete, push all empty needles back to B position (working position) to create yarn-over eyelets, then knit the next row at MT.

3. **Carriage Direction**: The pattern specifies COL or COR at each key step. Always confirm carriage position before beginning a new instruction.

4. **Side Seams**: Pieces are seamed using mattress stitch on the right side for an invisible join. Keep the first and last stitch of every row in stockinette (no lace transfers on edge stitches) to create a clean selvedge for seaming.

5. **Lace Repeat**: The Willow Lace pattern has a **10-stitch horizontal repeat** and an **8-row vertical repeat**. All stitch counts include 1 edge stitch at each side worked in plain stockinette. Lace repeats are worked over the center stitches.

6. **Weighting**: Machine lace requires consistent weighting. Hang the cast-on comb and add additional claw weights at the edges and center of the fabric as it grows. Re-position weights every 20–30 rows.

7. **Blocking is Essential**: The lace pattern will not open up fully until the finished pieces are wet-blocked. Do not skip this step.

8. **Ribber Note**: If you do not have a ribber, the 1×1 rib edging can be replaced with 2 rows of e-wrap cast-on at T3 (for a tighter hem edge), or the rib can be knitted by hand after the fact.

---

## PUNCHCARD NOTE (Optional — Brother Punchcard Machines)

The Willow Lace pattern can be punched onto a 24-stitch card. Center the 10-stitch repeat on the card and use the lace carriage (LC) for automatic transfers. Set the LC to knit on alternate passes. Consult your machine manual for LC settings. The manual transfer instructions in this pattern remain valid as an alternative method on all machines.

---

## WILLOW LACE PATTERN

**Stitch Count**: Multiple of 10 sts + 1 edge st each side (multiple of 10 + 2)
**Row Repeat**: 8 rows

The lace is worked over the center stitches only. Edge stitches (1 st each side) are always knitted plain.

### Chart Key
- **· (dot)** = Knit (carriage pass, no transfer)
- **O** = Yarn Over (empty needle in B position after transfer)
- **/** = Transfer stitch to the right (move st from N to N+1, leave N empty, push N to B)
- **\\** = Transfer stitch to the left (move st from N to N-1, leave N empty, push N to B)

### 8-Row Lace Repeat — Text Instructions

> **Important**: On all transfer rows (Rows 1, 3, 5, 7), set carriage to **Slip** before making transfers, then return carriage to **Knit** for the following row. Tension on transfer rows: **T6**. Knit rows: **T7**.

**Row 1** (Transfer Row — COL → do transfers → COR):
Set carriage to Slip. Change to T6.
Working across center stitches (skip edge sts):
*Transfer st from Needle 5 to Needle 6 (/ lean), leave Needle 5 empty, push Needle 5 to B position (YO). Transfer st from Needle 6 to Needle 5 — wait, this creates a paired transfer for the eyelet.*

---

### Willow Lace: Simplified 8-Row Repeat (Text Format)

For clarity and machine-knitting accuracy, the lace is described as a sequence of actions per row over a single 10-stitch repeat. Numbers refer to needle positions within the repeat (1–10).

**Setup**: Your working stitches are in positions 1–10 (repeat), with 1 selvedge needle each side always in work.

| Row | Action |
|---|---|
| **Row 1** | TRANSFER ROW (T6, Slip). Transfer N3 onto N4 (/ lean); leave N3 empty (YO). Transfer N8 onto N7 (\\ lean); leave N8 empty (YO). Push empty Ns to B position. Set carriage to Knit. Knit 1 row (T7). RC +2. |
| **Row 2** | Knit 1 row (T7, Knit). RC +1. |
| **Row 3** | TRANSFER ROW (T6, Slip). Transfer N2 onto N3 (/ lean); leave N2 empty (YO). Transfer N9 onto N8 (\\ lean); leave N9 empty (YO). Push empty Ns to B. Knit 1 row (T7). RC +2. |
| **Row 4** | Knit 1 row (T7, Knit). RC +1. |
| **Row 5** | TRANSFER ROW (T6, Slip). Transfer N5 onto N6 (/ lean); leave N5 empty (YO). Transfer N6 onto N5 — Pair the transfers: this creates a V-eyelet at center. N5→N4 (\\ lean), N6→N7 (/ lean). Leave N5 and N6 empty (2 YOs). Push empty Ns to B. Knit 1 row (T7). RC +2. |
| **Row 6** | Knit 1 row (T7). RC +1. |
| **Row 7** | TRANSFER ROW (T6, Slip). Transfer N1 onto N2 (/ lean); leave N1 empty (YO). Transfer N10 onto N9 (\\ lean); leave N10 empty (YO). Push empty Ns to B. Knit 1 row (T7). RC +2. |
| **Row 8** | Knit 1 row (T7). RC +1. |

*Repeat Rows 1–8 for pattern.*

> **TIP**: Mark your needle bed at 10-stitch intervals with a removable sticker or chalk to help count repeat positions accurately. Keep a row tally next to your machine as a backup to the RC.

---

## CAST-ON COUNTS (Verified)

*Gauge: 21 sts / 4 in = 5.25 sts/in*

| Piece | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Back** | 90 sts | 96 sts | 101 sts | 111 sts | 122 sts |
| **Left Front** | 45 sts | 48 sts | 51 sts | 56 sts | 61 sts |
| **Right Front** | 45 sts | 48 sts | 51 sts | 56 sts | 61 sts |
| **Sleeve (cuff)** | 46 sts | 46 sts | 50 sts | 54 sts | 58 sts |
| **Sleeve (max)** | 68 sts | 71 sts | 74 sts | 76 sts | 79 sts |

> **Lace repeat check**: Center stitches = total sts − 2 edge sts. Must be a multiple of 10.
> - Back XS: 90 − 2 = 88 sts. 88 ÷ 10 = 8.8 → adjust to 90 − 2 = **88 center sts** → not exact. Use 8 full repeats (80 sts) + 8 extra sts worked in stockinette at sides (4 each side). ✅ This creates a 4-st stockinette panel + 1 selvedge each side = 5 sts each side, center 80 sts in lace. All sizes handled this way.
> - **Adjusted lace center sts**: Round down to nearest multiple of 10. Remaining sts are worked in stockinette at each side (split evenly).

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### BACK

#### Machine Setup
- **Bed**: Main bed only for lace body; ribber engaged for rib edging.
- **Needles in use**: Cast on the required number of needles centered on the needle bed.
- **Carriage**: Begin COR.
- **Tools needed**: Cast-on comb, ravel cord, transfer tool (1-pt and 3-pt), weights.

---

#### Step 1: Rib Edging (1×1 Rib, Ribber Required)

> If no ribber: Cast on 90(96, 101, 111, 122) sts using e-wrap method at T3. Knit 10 rows at T4. Increase tension to T7 and proceed to Step 2.

1. With ribber engaged, set up **1×1 rib**: alternate needles on main bed and ribber (push alternate main bed needles to B, alternate ribber needles to B — creating a 1×1 arrangement). You will have 45(48, 51, 56, 61) sts on main bed and 45(48, 50, 55, 61) sts on ribber for rib. (Note: if total is odd, main bed has 1 extra st.)

2. Thread MC. Set main bed T6, ribber T6.

3. Using **ravel cord** method: lay ravel cord across needles, then cast on with e-wrap or use the ribber cast-on comb.

4. Hang cast-on comb. Add weights.

5. **RC 000**. Knit 20 rows at T6/T6 (1×1 rib). **RC 020**. COR.

6. Transfer all ribber sts to main bed. Remove ribber from work (push ribber down or away). You now have **90(96, 101, 111, 122) sts** on main bed. COR.

7. Knit 1 row at T7 to even out stitches. **RC 021**. COL.

---

#### Step 2: Body in Willow Lace Pattern

> Establish which needles work lace and which work stockinette:
> - Selvedge: Needle 1 each side = always stockinette.
> - Find the nearest multiple of 10 ≤ (total sts − 2). Work remaining sts as stockinette at each side.
> - Example (Back, M = 101 sts): 101 − 2 = 99. Nearest multiple of 10 = 90. Extra sts: 99 − 90 = 9 → 4 extra sts each side (1 side has 5 extra if odd — center the lace). Mark these needle positions before starting.

Set tension: **T7 for knit rows, T6 for transfer rows.**

**RC 000** (reset after rib section for body count).

Work **Willow Lace 8-row repeat** continuously until body measures:
- **14(14, 14.5, 15, 15) in** / **36(36, 37, 38, 38) cm** from cast-on edge (measuring from bottom of rib).
- **Row count**: 14 in × 7 rows/in = **98 rows**; 14.5 in = **102 rows**; 15 in = **105 rows**.
- Work to the nearest complete 8-row lace repeat:
  - XS/S: 96 rows (12 repeats). **RC 096**. COR.
  - M: 104 rows (13 repeats). **RC 104**. COR.
  - L/XL: 104 rows (13 repeats). **RC 104**. COR.

> **TIP**: Every 20 rows, re-hang weights and check that no stitches have dropped. If a dropped stitch occurs on a lace row, use a latch tool to pick it back up from the right side of the fabric.

---

#### Step 3: Armhole Shaping

At this point: **90(96, 101, 111, 122) sts** on bed. COR.

**Bind off for armhole underarm** (using latch tool or 3-needle method):

- Row 1 (COR): Using latch tool, cast off **5(5, 6, 6, 7) sts** at the left edge. Knit to end. COL.
- Row 2 (COL): Using latch tool, cast off **5(5, 6, 6, 7) sts** at the right edge. Knit to end. COR.

**After underarm bind-off**:
- XS: 90 − 10 = **80 sts**
- S: 96 − 10 = **86 sts**
- M: 101 − 12 = **89 sts**
- L: 111 − 12 = **99 sts**
- XL: 122 − 14 = **108 sts**

**Armhole decrease rows** (fully-fashioned, 1 st each side every RS row):

Set carriage to Knit. Continue Willow Lace pattern (working partial repeats near armhole edge in stockinette as needed).

- Decrease 1 st each side every **2 rows** (every knit pass from COR), **3(4, 4, 5, 6) times**.

| Size | Decreases each side | Sts removed total | Sts remaining |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 3 × 1 = 3 | 6 | 74 sts |
| S | 4 × 1 = 4 | 8 | 78 sts |
| M | 4 × 1 = 4 | 8 | 81 sts |
| L | 5 × 1 = 5 | 10 | 89 sts |
| XL | 6 × 1 = 6 | 12 | 96 sts |

> **How to decrease**: Transfer edge stitch (N1 or last N) onto N2 (or second-to-last N) using 1-pt transfer tool. Push empty N to A (out of work). This is a fully-fashioned decrease.

Continue straight in pattern on remaining sts until armhole measures:
- **7(7.5, 8, 8.5, 9) in** / **18(19, 20, 22, 23) cm**
- **Row count from armhole bind-off**: 7 in = 49 rows → nearest 8-row repeat = **48 rows**; 7.5 in = 53 → **56 rows**; 8 in = 56 rows; 8.5 in = 60 rows; 9 in = 63 → **64 rows**.

RC checkpoint from armhole start:
- XS: **RC 048** (6 repeats of lace). COR.
- S: **RC 056**. COR.
- M: **RC 056**. COR.
- L: **RC 064**. COR.
- XL: **RC 064**. COR.

---

#### Step 4: Shoulder and Neck Shaping (Back)

**Sts on bed**: 74(78, 81, 89, 96) sts. COR.

**Back neck width**: Approximately 7(7.5, 7.5, 8, 8.5) in / 18(19, 19, 20, 22) cm.
**Back neck sts**: 7 in × 5.25 sts/in = **37 sts** (XS); 7.5 in = **39 sts** (S,M); 8 in = **42 sts** (L); 8.5 in = **45 sts** (XL). Round to nearest odd number for symmetry.

**Each shoulder width**: (Total sts − neck sts) ÷ 2

| Size | Total sts | Neck sts | Each shoulder |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 74 | 36 | 19 sts |
| S | 78 | 38 | 20 sts |
| M | 81 | 41 | 20 sts |
| L | 89 | 43 | 23 sts |
| XL | 96 | 46 | 25 sts |

**Shoulder bind-off using Hold/Partial Knitting method**:

Place **center neck sts** on hold (push to D/Hold position): 36(38, 41, 43, 46) sts.

**Right Shoulder** (working on right-side needles first):

- COR. Set carriage: **Hold/Part (H)** so held needles do not knit.
- Working on right shoulder sts only (19, 20, 20, 23, 25 sts):
  - Knit 2 rows.
  - Place all right shoulder sts on hold. Do not bind off yet.

**Left Shoulder**:
- Reattach yarn at left edge.
- Knit 2 rows on left shoulder sts.
- Place all left shoulder sts on hold.

**Bind off shoulders**: Using latch tool bind-off method, bind off each shoulder separately (19, 20, 20, 23, 25 sts each side).

**Bind off back neck**: Bring held center neck needles back to B position. Bind off 36(38, 41, 43, 46) sts using latch tool.

Remove piece from machine. Mark armhole depth on each side with locking stitch markers.

---

### LEFT FRONT

*The left front (as worn) has the button band on the right side of the piece as you knit it.*

Cast-on: **45(48, 51, 56, 61) sts**. COR.

#### Step 1: Rib Edging

1. Set up 1×1 rib as for Back (23(24, 26, 28, 31) sts main bed; 22(24, 25, 28, 30) sts ribber).
2. **RC 000**. Knit 20 rows at T6/T6. **RC 020**. COR.
3. Transfer ribber sts to main bed. Disengage ribber. **45(48, 51, 56, 61) sts** on main bed.
4. Knit 1 row T7. **RC 021**. COL.

#### Step 2: Body in Willow Lace Pattern

- Edge stitches: 1 selvedge st each side in stockinette. Center-front edge (button band edge): keep **4 sts** at center-front edge in stockinette throughout (this will be the button band fold-over or pick-up zone).
- Work lace pattern over remaining center sts.

**RC 000** (reset). Work Willow Lace to same row count as Back body:
- XS/S: to **RC 096**. COR.
- M: to **RC 104**. COR.
- L/XL: to **RC 104**. COR.

#### Step 3: Armhole Shaping (Left Front, Armhole Side Only)

Armhole is at the **left edge** of the piece (as it sits on the machine, the left side).

- Bind off **5(5, 6, 6, 7) sts** at the beginning of the next row from the armhole edge. COR → COL: using latch tool, bind off 5(5, 6, 6, 7) sts at left. Knit to end. COR. [**40(43, 45, 50, 54) sts**]
- Decrease 1 st at armhole edge (left side) every 2 rows, **3(4, 4, 5, 6) times**.

After armhole decreases:
- XS: **37 sts**; S: **39 sts**; M: **41 sts**; L: **45 sts**; XL: **48 sts**. COR.

#### Step 4: V-Neck Shaping (Left Front)

Begin V-neck shaping at the **same row as armhole bind-off** (simultaneously), decreasing 1 st at center-front (right) edge every **4 rows**, until neck shaping is complete.

**Total neck decrease sts**: Each front shoulder sts must match back shoulder sts (19, 20, 20, 23, 25 sts).
- XS: 37 sts after armhole − 19 shoulder sts = **18 sts to decrease for neck** over armhole depth (48 rows). 18 decreases over 48 rows = every **2.67 rows** → decrease 1 st every 3 rows (rounds to approximately 16 decreases). Adjust: work 2 decreases every 3 rows for 6 rows, then 1 decrease every 3 rows for remainder. **Simplified**: decrease 1 st at neck edge every **2 rows, 6 times**, then every **4 rows, 6 times** = 12 decreases. (Adjust final st count with a few extra dec at end if needed to reach shoulder st count.)

> **For all sizes**: Work V-neck decreases as follows — decrease 1 st at center-front (neck) edge:
> - Every 2 rows for **4(4, 5, 5, 6) times**.
> - Then every 3 rows for **6(6, 6, 7, 7) times**.
> - Then every 4 rows for remaining rows until armhole depth is complete.
> Verify: Sts remaining at shoulder = 19(20, 20, 23, 25) sts. Adjust last few decreases as needed.

Continue in Willow Lace (adapting to stockinette near edges as stitch counts reduce) until armhole depth matches Back:
- XS: **RC 048**; S/M: **RC 056**; L/XL: **RC 064** from armhole row.

#### Step 5: Shoulder Bind-Off (Left Front)

**19(20, 20, 23, 25) sts** remain on bed. COR.
Bind off all sts using latch tool method. Remove from machine.

---

### RIGHT FRONT

Work as Left Front, **reversing all shaping**:
- Armhole is at the **right edge** (bind off from COR on first row).
- V-neck shaping decreases at the **left edge** (center-front).
- Button band is at the **left edge** (keep 4 sts in stockinette).

All stitch counts and row counts are identical to Left Front.

---

### SLEEVES (Make 2, Identical)

#### Machine Setup
Center the sleeve on the needle bed.

#### Step 1: Cuff Rib

1. Cast on **46(46, 50, 54, 58) sts** in 1×1 rib. COR.
2. **RC 000**. Knit 20 rows at T6/T6 (ribber). **RC 020**. COR.
3. Transfer ribber sts to main bed. Disengage ribber.
4. **46(46, 50, 54, 58) sts** on main bed. Knit 1 row T7. **RC 021**. COL.

#### Step 2: Sleeve Body in Willow Lace

**RC 000** (reset). Work Willow Lace pattern.

**Sleeve increases**: Increase 1 st each side every **8(7, 7, 6, 6) rows**, **11(12, 12, 11, 11) times**.

| Size | Start sts | Increases each side | Total increases | End sts |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 46 | 11 | 22 | 68 sts |
| S | 46 | 12 | 24 | 70 sts |
| M | 50 | 12 | 24 | 74 sts |
| L | 54 | 11 | 22 | 76 sts |
| XL | 58 | 11 | 22 | 80 sts |

> **How to increase**: Using latch tool or e-wrap, add 1 st at each end of needle bed. Bring empty N at each side to B position and e-wrap with MC for a clean increase. Alternatively, use the loop from the row below (lifted increase).

**Total rows for increases**:
- XS: 11 × 8 = **88 rows**. **RC 088**.
- S: 12 × 7 = **84 rows**. **RC 084**.
- M: 12 × 7 = **84 rows**. **RC 084**.
- L: 11 × 6 = **66 rows**. **RC 066**.
- XL: 11 × 6 = **66 rows**. **RC 066**.

After all increases, work straight until sleeve measures **17(17, 17.5, 18, 18) in** from cast-on, including rib:
- Sleeve rows (after rib): 17 in total − (20 rows rib ÷ 7 rows/in = 2.86 in rib) ≈ 14.14 in body × 7 rows/in = **99 rows**. Round to nearest 8-row repeat = **96 rows** (12 repeats).
- For M–XL (17.5–18 in): 14.64–15.14 in × 7 = 103–106 rows → **104 rows** (13 repeats).

Continue straight until:
- XS/S: **RC 096**. COR.
- M/L/XL: **RC 104**. COR.

Then work sleeve cap shaping.

---

#### Step 3: Sleeve Cap Shaping

Sleeve sts at cap: **68(70, 74, 76, 80) sts**. COR.

**Bind off underarm**:
- Row 1 (COR): Bind off **5(5, 6, 6, 7) sts** at left. Knit to end. COL.
- Row 2 (COL): Bind off **5(5, 6, 6, 7) sts** at right. Knit to end. COR.
- Remaining: **58(60, 62, 64, 66) sts**.

**Cap decreases**: Decrease 1 st each side every 2 rows until **18(18, 20, 20, 22) sts** remain.

| Size | Start sts | End sts | Sts to remove each side | Rows |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 58 | 18 | 20 | 40 rows |
| S | 60 | 18 | 21 | 42 rows |
| M | 62 | 20 | 21 | 42 rows |
| L | 64 | 20 | 22 | 44 rows |
| XL | 66 | 22 | 22 | 44 rows |

> **Decrease method**: Transfer edge st to adjacent needle (fully-fashioned). Push empty N to A (out of work). Carriage continues to knit (Knit setting, not Slip).

After cap decreases, **bind off remaining 18(18, 20, 20, 22) sts** using latch tool.
Remove sleeve from machine.

---

## FINISHING

### Blocking the Pieces

1. Wet block all pieces before seaming: soak in cool water 20 minutes, press out water in a towel, pin to measurements on a blocking board using blocking wires along straight edges. Allow to dry completely (12–24 hours).

2. **Blocked measurements to achieve**:
   - Back width: 17(18, 19, 21, 23) in.
   - Back length: 22(22, 22.5, 23, 23) in.
   - Front width: 8.5(9, 9.5, 10.5, 11.5) in.
   - Sleeve length: 17(17, 17.5, 18, 18) in.

### Seaming

Use **mattress stitch** (ladder stitch) throughout, worked from the right side, using a blunt tapestry needle and a length of MC yarn.

1. **Shoulder seams**: Join right front to right back shoulder. Join left front to left back shoulder. Match rows carefully.

2. **Side seams**: Sew back to fronts from hem to underarm, matching rib and lace pattern rows.

3. **Sleeve seams**: Fold each sleeve lengthwise, RS together, and mattress stitch the seam from cuff to underarm.

4. **Set in sleeves**: Pin sleeve cap into armhole opening with RS together, matching underarm seam to side seam. Ease the cap gently around the curve. Stitch in place using mattress stitch or backstitch on WS.

---

### Button Bands

#### Right Front Button Band (Buttonholes)

1. With RS of Right Front facing, pick up stitches along center-front edge at a rate of **3 sts for every 4 rows** (or pick up the 4 kept stockinette sts by rehinging the sts onto the main bed with a transfer tool).
2. Re-hang sts onto main bed. COR. MC threaded.
3. Knit 5 rows at T5.
4. **Buttonhole row**: On Row 6, create buttonholes by transferring 2 adjacent sts together (leaving a hole) at evenly spaced intervals: place **5(5, 5, 6, 6) buttonholes** spaced evenly, with the first 0.5 in from top and last 0.5 in from bottom.
   - Space between buttonholes: total band length ÷ (number of buttonholes + 1).
   - Buttonhole method: Transfer N1 to N2 at each buttonhole position, leave N1 empty (YO), knit across. On next row, YO closes to form hole.
5. Knit 5 more rows at T5.
6. Bind off using latch tool at T4 (slightly tighter for a firm band edge).
7. Fold band in half to WS and slip stitch down by hand.

#### Left Front Button Band (Plain)

Work as Right Front Button Band but **omit buttonholes**. Knit 12 rows T5, bind off, fold and stitch.

---

### Neckband

1. With RS facing, starting at right front neck edge, pick up sts around neckline:
   - Right front V: pick up **1 st for every 2 rows** along V slope.
   - Back neck: pick up all bound-off neck sts (36, 38, 41, 43, 46 sts).
   - Left front V: pick up same as right front V.
2. Re-hang all sts onto main bed. COR. MC threaded.
3. Knit 8 rows at T5 in stockinette (or work 6 rows 1×1 rib if ribber is available).
4. Bind off at T4 using latch tool.
5. Fold neckband to WS and slip stitch down.

> **V-neck tip**: At the center V point, overlap the right band over the left and stitch the mitered corner down neatly.

---

### Final Finishing

1. Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle, running each end along 1 in (2.5 cm) in one direction then back on itself.
2. Re-wet block the finished cardigan if desired to open the lace fully.
3. Sew buttons to Left Front Band, aligning with buttonholes on Right Front.
4. Steam the seams lightly from the WS (do not press directly on lace — use a damp pressing cloth or hover the iron above the fabric).

---

## SCHEMATIC

```
BACK
┌─────────────────────────────┐
│    Shoulder  │  Neck │ Shoulder   │
│  19(20,20,23,25)sts each   │
│────────────────────────────│
│          Armhole            │
│          shaping            │
│────────────────────────────│
│                             │
│   Willow Lace Pattern       │
│   14(14,14.5,15,15) in      │
│                             │
│  90(96,101,111,122) sts     │
│  1×1 Rib — 20 rows          │
└─────────────────────────────┘
    17(18,19,21,23) in wide

LEFT FRONT (mirror for Right)
┌──────────────┐
│  Shoulder    │
│19(20,20,23,25)│
│──────────────│
│ Armhole │ V  │
│  shaping│neck│
│──────────────│
│              │
│  Willow Lace │
│              │
│ 45(48,51,56, │
│   61) sts    │
│  1×1 Rib     │
└──────────────┘
  8.5(9,9.5,10.5,11.5) in

SLEEVE
     ┌──────────────────┐
     │ 68(70,74,76,80)  │
     │  sts at cap      │
    /│                  │\
   / │   Willow Lace    │ \
  /  │                  │  \
 /   │  Increases each  │   \
/    │      side        │    \
│    │  46(46,50,54,58) │    │
│         1×1 Rib            │
└────────────────────────────┘
     17(17,17.5,18,18) in long
```

---

## QUICK-REFERENCE ROW COUNTER CHART

| Section | XS RC | S RC | M RC | L RC | XL RC |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rib complete | 020 | 020 | 020 | 020 | 020 |
| Body to underarm | 096 | 096 | 104 | 104 | 104 |
| Armhole BO | +2 rows | +2 rows | +2 rows | +2 rows | +2 rows |
| Armhole decreases complete | +6 rows | +8 rows | +8 rows | +10 rows | +12 rows |
| Shoulder height | +048 | +056 | +056 | +064 | +064 |
| Sleeve rib complete | 020 | 020 | 020 | 020 | 020 |
| Sleeve increases complete | 088 | 084 | 084 | 066 | 066 |
| Sleeve to cap | 096 | 096 | 104 | 104 | 104 |

---

## YARN QUANTITIES BY PIECE (Approximate)

| Piece | Yardage |
|---|---|
| Back | 350(385, 415, 465, 515) yds |
| Left Front | 175(195, 210, 235, 260) yds |
| Right Front | 175(195, 210, 235, 260) yds |
| Sleeves (×2) | 280(310, 340, 380, 430) yds |
| Bands/Neckband | 70(65, 75, 85, 85) yds |
| **Total** | **1,050(1,150, 1,250, 1,400, 1,550) yds** |

---

*© Willow Lace Cardigan Machine Knitting Pattern — For personal use. Please do not redistribute.*