purlJam

<pattern>

# WOMEN'S BASIC RIB LEGGINGS
## Machine Knit Pattern - Beginner Level

A comfortable, stretchy pair of full-length leggings knit in durable 1x1 rib. These leggings are worked as two separate leg tubes from ankle to crotch, then joined for a rise to the elastic waistband. Perfect for learning circular knitting on a ribber.

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Worsted weight (#4 Medium) yarn with good elastic recovery
- Suggested: Wool/nylon blend or acrylic with spandex content
- Yardage: Approximately 900-1000 yards for size Medium
- Sample shown: Cascade 220 Superwash (100% wool, 220 yds per 100g skein) - 5 skeins

**Machine Requirements**:
- Standard gauge (4.5mm) knitting machine
- **Ribber attachment REQUIRED**
- Suitable for punchcard or electronic machines

**Notions**:
- Ravel cord (waste yarn)
- Cast-on comb and weights (approx. 6-8 claw weights per leg)
- Transfer tools
- Latch tool for bind-off
- 1" (2.5cm) wide elastic, 28-30" length for waistband
- Tapestry needle for grafting and seaming
- Stitch holders or spare needles

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## TENSION/GAUGE

**Tension Dial Settings**: 
- Main Bed: T6
- Ribber: T6

**Gauge** (in 1x1 rib, relaxed after light steaming):
- 5 stitches = 1" (2.5cm) width
- 7 rows = 1" (2.5cm) length

**IMPORTANT**: Always knit a tension swatch in circular 1x1 rib. Cast on 60 stitches (30 each bed), knit 50 rows, remove from machine and allow to relax for 30 minutes. Measure in center of swatch, not at edges. Rib fabric has significant stretch; measurement should be taken relaxed, not stretched.

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## SIZES

Pattern written for Women's Medium with adjustment notes.

| Size | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|------|----|----|----|----|-----|
| Hip circumference | 36" | 38" | 40" | 42" | 44" |
| Finished leg circ. (at hip) | 14" | 15" | 16" | 17" | 18" |
| Negative ease | 22" | 23" | 24" | 25" | 26" |
| Stitches per leg | 70 | 75 | 80 | 85 | 90 |
| Main bed sts | 35 | 38 | 40 | 43 | 45 |
| Ribber sts | 35 | 37 | 40 | 42 | 45 |

**Finished Measurements** (Size Medium):
- Ankle circumference: 9" (23cm) - unstretched
- Leg circumference at widest: 16" (40cm) - unstretched
- Inseam length: 30" (76cm)
- Rise: 11" (28cm)
- Total length: 41" (104cm)

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## ABBREVIATIONS & TERMS

- **RC**: Row Counter
- **COL**: Carriage On Left
- **COR**: Carriage On Right
- **T6**: Tension dial set to 6
- **MB**: Main Bed
- **RB**: Ribber
- **1x1 rib**: Every needle on main bed, every needle on ribber, alternating alignment
- **Circular knitting**: Tubular knitting with both beds working together
- **Hold position**: Needles brought to Hold (H) position, not knitting
- **WY**: Waste Yarn
- **MY**: Main Yarn

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Ribber Setup**: Ribber must be attached and properly aligned with main bed. For 1x1 rib, needles alternate: when a main bed needle is forward, the corresponding ribber needle is offset by half a needle pitch.

2. **Circular Knitting**: The carriage will move across both beds, creating a tube. There are no side seams. Make sure the circular setting lever on your ribber is engaged.

3. **Negative Ease**: These leggings are designed with 20-25% negative ease. They should feel snug when first tried on and will relax slightly with wear.

4. **Direction of Knitting**: Each leg is knit from ankle upward to crotch. This allows for easy length adjustments.

5. **Stitch Count**: All stitch counts must be even numbers for proper 1x1 rib formation. When shaping, always increase/decrease on both beds symmetrically.

6. **Yarn Joins**: Join new yarn at side "seam" position (needle 1 on main bed or ribber bed). Knit in ends during finishing.

7. **Weights**: Proper weight distribution is critical for even tension in circular knitting. Use 3-4 claw weights evenly spaced around the tube, adding more as the fabric lengthens.

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### MACHINE SETUP

1. Attach ribber to main bed according to manufacturer's instructions.
2. Set main bed tension dial to T6, ribber tension dial to T6.
3. Engage circular knitting lever/setting on ribber carriage.
4. Set pitch lever (if applicable) to P (standard pitch for 1x1 rib).
5. Thread main yarn through both yarn feeders (main bed and ribber).
6. Zero row counter (RC 000).

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### LEG ONE - RIGHT LEG

#### Cast-On (Closed Edge with Ravel Cord)

**RC 000, Carriage at Right**

1. Using ravel cord (WY), cast on 46 stitches total for ankle:
   - Main bed: Bring needles 23L to 23R to D position (46 needles)
   - Knit 6 rows with WY at T10 on main bed only
   
2. Thread ravel cord through open loops and hang cast-on comb with 2 weights.

3. **Set up for 1x1 rib**:
   - Ribber bed: Bring needles 23L to 22R to D position (45 needles) - one fewer for proper alternation
   - Check alignment: MB needles should alternate with RB needles
   
4. RC 000. Change to main yarn (MY). Set carriage for circular knitting.
   - Ensure both tension dials at T6
   - First pass will be COL to COR, knitting both beds

5. **Knit 10 rows** (RC 010, COR) in 1x1 rib to establish fabric. Check tension and adjust weights.

**CHECKPOINT**: RC 010, COR, 46 sts total (23 MB, 23 RB approximately - counts may vary by 1 due to rib structure)

#### Increase Section - Ankle to Calf

We need to increase from 46 sts to 64 sts over approximately 10" (70 rows).
Increase 18 sts total = 9 increase points, each adding 2 sts (1 each bed).
Space increases every 7-8 rows.

**RC 010, COR**

6. Knit 8 rows. **RC 018, COR**

7. **Increase Row**:
   - Bring 1 needle on each outside edge to D position (both beds):
     * Main bed: 24L and 24R to D position
     * Ribber: 24L and 23R to D position
   - Knit 2 rows to secure new needles. **RC 020, COR**
   - Total sts: 50 (25 MB, 25 RB)

8. Knit 6 rows. **RC 026, COR**

9. **Increase Row**: Bring next outside needles to D position both beds:
   - Main bed: 25L and 25R
   - Ribber: 25L and 24R
   - Knit 2 rows. **RC 028, COR**
   - Total sts: 54 (27 MB, 27 RB)

10. Knit 7 rows. **RC 035, COR**

11. **Increase Row**:
    - Main bed: 26L and 26R to D position
    - Ribber: 26L and 25R to D position
    - Knit 2 rows. **RC 037, COR**
    - Total sts: 58 (29 MB, 29 RB)

12. Knit 7 rows. **RC 044, COR**

13. **Increase Row**:
    - Main bed: 27L and 27R to D position
    - Ribber: 27L and 26R to D position
    - Knit 2 rows. **RC 046, COR**
    - Total sts: 62 (31 MB, 31 RB)

14. Knit 8 rows. **RC 054, COR**

15. **Increase Row**:
    - Main bed: 28L and 28R to D position
    - Ribber: 28L and 27R to D position
    - Knit 2 rows. **RC 056, COR**
    - Total sts: 66 (33 MB, 33 RB)

16. Knit 7 rows. **RC 063, COR**

17. **Increase Row**:
    - Main bed: 29L and 29R to D position
    - Ribber: 29L and 28R to D position
    - Knit 2 rows. **RC 065, COR**
    - Total sts: 70 (35 MB, 35 RB)

18. Knit 7 rows. **RC 072, COR**

19. **Increase Row**:
    - Main bed: 30L and 30R to D position
    - Ribber: 30L and 29R to D position
    - Knit 2 rows. **RC 074, COR**
    - Total sts: 74 (37 MB, 37 RB)

20. Knit 8 rows. **RC 082, COR**

21. **Final Increase Row**:
    - Main bed: 31L and 31R to D position
    - Ribber: 31L and 30R to D position
    - Knit 2 rows. **RC 084, COR**
    - **Total sts: 78 (39 MB, 39 RB)**

**CHECKPOINT**: RC 084, COR, 78 sts total
*Math check: 84 rows ÷ 7 rows/inch = 12" from start. Ankle increases complete.*

#### Calf to Knee

22. Knit straight (no shaping) for 70 rows. **RC 154, COR**

**CHECKPOINT**: RC 154, COR
*Math check: 154 rows ÷ 7 rows/inch = 22" from start - at knee level.*

#### Final Increase to Hip

Increase from 78 sts to 80 sts (final size for Medium).

23. Knit 8 rows. **RC 162, COR**

24. **Increase Row**:
    - Main bed: 32L and 32R to D position (now 40L to 40R = 80 needles MB)
    - Ribber: Keep 31L to 30R (40 needles RB)
    - Adjust alignment as needed for 1x1 rib
    - Knit 2 rows. **RC 164, COR**
    - **Total sts: 80 (40 MB, 40 RB)**

**CHECKPOINT**: RC 164, COR, 80 sts total

#### Hip to Crotch

25. Knit straight for 46 rows. **RC 210, COR**

**CHECKPOINT**: RC 210, COR
*Math check: 210 rows ÷ 7 rows/inch = 30" inseam length. Perfect!*

#### Holding for Crotch

26. **Place leg on hold**:
    - With carriage at COR, cancel circular knitting setting
    - Knit one final pass to COL with regular settings
    - Carefully remove weights
    - Push all needles (both beds) to hold position (H)
    - Hang fabric on stitch holders or waste yarn threaded through stitches
    - Leave needles in H position with stitches secured

**RIGHT LEG COMPLETE** - Set aside.

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### LEG TWO - LEFT LEG

Repeat all instructions from LEG ONE (Cast-On through Holding for Crotch) exactly as written.

You will now have two leg tubes, each with 80 stitches on hold (40 MB, 40 RB per leg).

**RC 210** at completion of second leg.

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### JOINING LEGS & RISE

**RC 210, Carriage at Right**

#### Arrange Needles for Joining

1. **Right Leg** (already on machine from completing Leg Two):
   - Main bed: Stitches on needles 40L to 1L (40 needles on left side)
   - Ribber: Stitches on needles 40L to 1L (40 needles on left side)

2. **Transfer Left Leg** from holder:
   - Main bed: Bring needles 1R to 40R to D position (40 needles on right side)
   - Ribber: Bring needles 1R to 40R to D position (40 needles on right side)
   - Using transfer tools and latch tool, carefully rehang the held stitches from LEFT leg onto needles 1R to 40R
   - Work carefully to