purlJam

<pattern>

# BASIC DROP SHOULDER PULLOVER TEE
## Machine Knitting Pattern

**Pattern Number**: KN-PULL-007-WORSTED  
**Difficulty Level**: Beginner  
**Style**: Drop shoulder, boatneck, boxy fit with generous ease

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

**Sizes**: S (M, L, XL, 2XL)

- **Finished Bust Circumference**: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)" / 91.5 (101.5, 112, 122, 132) cm
- **Finished Body Length**: 24 (24.5, 25, 25.5, 26)" / 61 (62, 63.5, 65, 66) cm
- **Armhole Depth**: 8.5 (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5)" / 21.5 (23, 24, 25.5, 26.5) cm
- **Sleeve Length**: 16" / 40.5 cm (all sizes, measured from shoulder seam to cuff)
- **Upper Arm Circumference**: 12 (13, 14, 15, 16)" / 30.5 (33, 35.5, 38, 40.5) cm

**Recommended Ease**: This pattern is designed with 6" / 15 cm positive ease for a relaxed, boxy fit.  
**Choose size**: Based on actual bust measurement + 6".  
Example: 34" bust → 40" finished garment = Size M

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Worsted weight (#4 Medium)  
**Yardage**: 900 (1000, 1100, 1250, 1400) yards / 823 (914, 1006, 1143, 1280) meters

**Sample shown in**: Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards / 100g)  
**Quantity needed**: 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) skeins

**Machine**: Standard gauge knitting machine (Brother/Silver Reed/Studio or equivalent)  
**Gauge**: Approximately 200-needle bed standard gauge machine

**Additional Tools Required**:
- Ribber attachment (or manual transfer tools for rib)
- Ravel cord (nylon cord or smooth waste yarn)
- Cast-on comb and weights (standard weight: 4-6 per section)
- Transfer tools (single and 3-prong)
- Latch tool for bind off
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Stitch markers
- Row counter (built-in or separate)
- Measuring tape
- Blocking pins and blocking surface
- Steam iron or garment steamer

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## GAUGE

**Stockinette on Main Bed** (tension dial setting T5-6):  
**5.5 stitches** and **7.5 rows** = 1" / 2.5 cm

**2×2 Rib on Ribber** (tension dial T4-5 main bed, T3-4 ribber):  
Approximately **6.5 stitches** = 1" / 2.5 cm (unstretched)

### GAUGE SWATCH INSTRUCTIONS

**Setup**:
1. Thread carriage with worsted weight yarn
2. Set main bed tension dial to T5 (adjust to T6 if fabric is too tight)
3. Bring 40 needles into B position (upper work position) at center of bed
4. Carriage at Right (COR)

**Cast On with Ravel Cord**:
1. Lay ravel cord across needle hooks (in front of latches)
2. Hang cast-on comb with 3-4 weights below needles
3. RC 000
4. Knit 6 rows waste yarn at T8-10 (looser tension), ending COR
5. Knit 1 row main yarn at working tension T5
6. Set RC to 000

**Knit Swatch**:
- Knit 40 rows stockinette at T5 (RC will show 040)
- Carriage should now be at Left (COL)
- Knit 6 rows waste yarn at T8, ending COL
- Remove from machine, unravel waste yarn later

**Measure**:
- Steam lightly without stretching
- Measure center 4" × 4" section (avoid edges)
- Count stitches: should be **22 sts** = 4" (5.5 sts/inch) ✓
- Count rows: should be **30 rows** = 4" (7.5 rows/inch) ✓
- If gauge is off: Adjust tension dial up (looser) or down (tighter)

**CRITICAL**: Your gauge must match. A difference of 0.5 st/inch will change finished bust by 3-5 inches!

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## PATTERN NOTES

### Construction Overview
This is a classic **drop shoulder** pullover with the easiest possible construction:
1. **Back** and **Front** are identical rectangles (no armhole shaping)
2. **Shoulders** are joined, leaving center open for boatneck
3. **Sleeves** are picked up along straight armhole edge and worked downward
4. **Seams** at sides and underarm complete the garment

### Machine-Specific Notes
- **RC (Row Counter)**: Reset to 000 at key points as indicated. Use RC checkpoints to track progress.
- **COL/COR**: "Carriage on Left" or "Carriage on Right" indicates starting position for next instruction.
- **Needle Position**: B = upper work position; D = holding position; A = non-working position
- **Tension Dial**: T5-6 for stockinette; T4-5 (main) and T3-4 (ribber) for rib
- **Waste Yarn**: Use smooth, contrasting yarn that's easy to unravel (acrylic or nylon cord)

### Holding Technique for Shaping
When instructions say "hold" needles:
1. Push needles to D position (holding position)
2. Ensure hold levers are set correctly (H position on both sides)
3. Carriage will knit working needles only
4. To return held needles: Push back to B position

### Stitch Pickup Rate for Sleeves
Along the straight vertical armhole edge:
- Pick up approximately **3 stitches for every 4 rows**
- Formula: (armhole rows ÷ 4) × 3 = stitches to pick up
- Use evenly-spaced markers to ensure even distribution

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### BACK

**Machine Setup**:
1. Set up main bed with ribber attached (or prepare for manual ribbing transfer)
2. Main bed tension: T5 (ribber T3)
3. Thread carriage with main color yarn
4. Carriage at Right (COR)

**Cast On**:

All Sizes:
- Bring **99 (110, 121, 132, 143)** needles into work on ribber in 2×2 configuration:
  - For 2×2 rib: Every other pair of needles (2 up, 2 down alternating pattern)
  - **Size S**: 99 sts = 50 on main bed, 49 on ribber (adjust end needle)
  - **Size M**: 110 sts = 55 on main bed, 55 on ribber
  - **Size L**: 121 sts = 61 on main bed, 60 on ribber
  - **Size XL**: 132 sts = 66 on main bed, 66 on ribber
  - **Size 2XL**: 143 sts = 72 on main bed, 71 on ribber

**Math Check**:
- Width = stitches ÷ gauge → 99 ÷ 5.5 = 18" ✓ (Size S)
- Width = 110 ÷ 5.5 = 20" ✓ (Size M)
- Width = 121 ÷ 5.5 = 22" ✓ (Size L)
- Width = 132 ÷ 5.5 = 24" ✓ (Size XL)
- Width = 143 ÷ 5.5 = 26" ✓ (Size 2XL)

1. Lay ravel cord across all needles in work
2. Hang cast-on comb with 4-6 evenly-spaced weights (add more for wider sizes)
3. RC 000, COR

**Waste Yarn Rows**:
- Knit 6-8 rows waste yarn at loose tension (T8-10)
- End COR

**Ribbing** (Main Bed T4, Ribber T3):
- RC 000
- Knit **15 rows** in 2×2 rib pattern (circular knitting with ribber)
- RC will show 015
- End COR

**Transfer Rib to Main Bed**:
1. Using transfer tools, move all ribber stitches to main bed needles
2. Each main bed needle now has 1 stitch
3. Return ribber needles to A position (non-working)
4. Remove ribber carriage or disengage ribber
5. You should have **99 (110, 121, 132, 143)** sts on main bed only

**Main Body** (Tension T5-6):
- RC 000, COR
- Set main bed tension to T5 (or T6 if needed for gauge)
- Knit in stockinette (every row) until piece measures **15.5 (15.5, 15.5, 15.5, 16)"** from cast-on edge (bottom of rib)
  - **Rows needed**: 116 (116, 116, 116, 120) rows
  - **Math**: 15.5" × 7.5 rows/inch = 116.25 rows → 116 rows ✓
  - RC will show **116 (116, 116, 116, 120)**
  
**RC Checkpoints** (tracking progress):
- RC 040: ≈ 5.3" complete
- RC 080: ≈ 10.7" complete
- RC 116: ≈ 15.5" complete ✓

End COL (Carriage on Left)

**Armhole Section** (no shaping—knit straight):
- Continue in stockinette with NO changes
- Knit until total body length from cast-on = **24 (24.5, 25, 25.5, 26)"**
- **Additional rows needed**: 64 (68, 71, 75, 75) rows
  - **Math for Size S**: (24" total - 15.5") × 7.5 = 63.75 → 64 rows ✓
  - **Math for Size M**: (24.5" - 15.5") × 7.5 = 67.5 → 68 rows ✓
  - **Math for Size L**: (25" - 15.5") × 7.5 = 71.25 → 71 rows ✓
  - **Math for Size XL**: (25.5" - 15.5") × 7.5 = 75 rows ✓
  - **Math for Size 2XL**: (26" - 16") × 7.5 = 75 rows ✓

- **Final RC reading**: 180 (184, 187, 191, 195)
- End COR

**Bind Off**:
1. Using latch tool method: Starting at right edge, pull each stitch through the next
2. OR use waste yarn method: Knit 6-8 rows waste yarn at T10, remove from machine
3. Steam piece flat, then unravel waste yarn and use Kitchener stitch or 3-needle bind off for shoulders later

**Back Complete**: Set aside.

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### FRONT

Work exactly as for Back.

**Repeat all instructions** from "BACK" section:
- Same cast-on: **99 (110, 121, 132, 143)** sts