purlJam

<pattern>

# CLASSIC DROP-SHOULDER PULLOVER
### A Beginner-Friendly Machine-Knit Women's Top

**Design Description:**  
A timeless, relaxed-fit pullover featuring drop shoulders, ribbed edging, and minimal shaping. Perfect for learning fundamental machine knitting skills including waste yarn cast-on, even tension maintenance, and basic seaming techniques. This pattern produces a comfortable, casual shirt suitable for everyday wear.

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**  
- Worsted weight yarn (#4 Medium)
- Approximately 1,100 yards (1,006m) total
- Sample shown: 100% acrylic or wool blend recommended for ease of care

**Yardage by Piece:**
- Back: 400 yards (366m)
- Front: 400 yards (366m)
- Sleeves: 300 yards (274m) total (150 yards each)

**Machine Requirements:**
- Standard gauge machine (4.5mm needle spacing)
- Compatible with: Brother/KnitKing, Silver Reed/Studio, Passap standard gauge models
- Ribber attachment optional (mock rib alternatives provided)
- Punchcard or electronic models all suitable

**Notions & Tools:**
- Waste yarn (smooth, contrasting color)
- Ravel cord or fine string
- Cast-on comb and weights (approximately 6-8 claw weights)
- Transfer tools (single and 3-prong)
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Blocking mats or towels
- Measuring tape

---

## GAUGE & TENSION

**Tension Dial Setting:** T7 (adjust to T6 or T8 if your machine knits tighter/looser)

**Resulting Gauge:**  
20 stitches × 28 rows = 4" × 4" (10cm × 10cm) in stockinette on main bed

**Gauge Swatch Instructions:**
1. Cast on 30 sts using waste yarn method
2. Knit 40 rows at T7, RC 000
3. Remove from machine, unravel waste yarn
4. Steam block gently, let cool
5. Measure center 20 sts × 28 rows
6. **CRITICAL:** Match gauge exactly or adjust tension dial. Even 0.5 st/inch difference = 2.5" error in finished bust!

---

## SIZES

**Finished Bust Measurement:** 36" (91cm)  
*Note: This pattern produces a relaxed fit with approximately 2-4" (5-10cm) positive ease for sizes 32-34" (81-86cm) body measurement.*

**Finished Measurements:**
- Bust circumference: 36" (91cm)
- Body length from shoulder: 22" (56cm)
- Sleeve length from shoulder: 17" (43cm)
- Sleeve width at upper arm: 12" (30cm)

**Adjustment Notes:**
- For larger/smaller sizes: add/subtract 10 sts per 2" (5cm) to front and back panels
- Adjust body length by knitting more/fewer rows before armhole (every 14 rows = 2"/5cm)
- Sleeve length adjustable at RC 050 checkpoint

---

## ABBREVIATIONS & TERMS

**Machine Knitting Specific:**
- **RC** = Row Counter (reset to 000 at specified points)
- **COL** = Carriage on Left
- **COR** = Carriage on Right
- **T** = Tension dial setting (e.g., T7)
- **WY** = Waste Yarn
- **MY** = Main Yarn
- **HP** = Holding Position (needles held, not knitting)
- **WP** = Working Position (needles knitting)
- **UWP** = Upper Working Position (for transfer/bind-off)

**Standard Abbreviations:**
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **inc** = increase
- **dec** = decrease
- **beg** = beginning
- **approx** = approximately
- **rem** = remaining

**Needle Notation:**
- Numbers indicate needle positions from center 0
- Left bed: negative numbers (e.g., -90 to -1)
- Right bed: positive numbers (e.g., 1 to 90)
- "Every needle" = all needles in range (1×1 arrangement)

---

## PATTERN NOTES

**Before You Begin:**
1. **Swatch First:** Gauge determines fit. Take time to match tension exactly.
2. **Weight Placement:** Hang claw weights evenly across cast-on comb. Add weight every 30-40 rows to maintain even tension.
3. **Edge Stitches:** First and last 2 sts may be looser. This is normal and will be hidden in seams.
4. **Row Counter Discipline:** Reset RC at specified points. Write down your RC values if interrupted.
5. **Carriage Speed:** Maintain consistent, moderate speed. Rushing causes dropped stitches.

**Beginner Tips:**
- Keep yarn feeding smoothly from ball/cone placed behind machine
- Check needle hooks every 20 rows for lint buildup
- If you drop a stitch, rehang immediately with latch tool
- Don't panic if a stitch drops - machine knitting is forgiving!

**Construction Method:**
All pieces knit flat, bottom to top. Back and front are identical for simplicity. Sleeves are rectangular with minimal shaping. Pieces are blocked, then seamed using mattress stitch or backstitch.

---

## BACK PANEL

### Setup
1. Push needles 90L to 90R into WP (180 needles total)  
   *Math check: 180 sts ÷ 5 sts/inch = 36" width ✓*
2. Set carriage to left side (COL)
3. Set tension dial to T7
4. Thread WY through carriage, leaving 12" (30cm) tail

### Waste Yarn Cast-On
- **RC 000**, COL, T7, WY
- Lay ravel cord across needles in hooks
- Knit 8 rows WY, ending COR
- Hang cast-on comb on stitches, attach 6-8 weights evenly distributed
- **RC 008**

### Body Ribbing (Mock Rib)
*Note: If using ribber, follow ribber manual for 2×2 rib setup. Otherwise, continue with mock rib below.*

- Remove WY from carriage, thread MY
- **RC 008**, COR, T5, MY
- Knit 20 rows at tighter tension for rolled edge ribbing
- **RC 028**, COL
- Change tension to T7
- *Checkpoint: Fabric should hang approximately 3" (7.5cm) from ravel cord*

### Main Body
- **RC 028**, COL, T7, MY
- Knit straight (no shaping) until RC 154
- **RC 154**, COL (approximately 18" / 46cm from beginning of MY)
- *Math check: 154 rows ÷ 7 rows/inch = 22" total length ✓*
- Check length: measure from bottom edge to needles = should be 22" (56cm)

### Shoulder Shaping (Simplified - No Slope)
*Beginner version uses straight shoulders for easier seaming*

- **RC 154**, COL, T7
- Continue knitting straight for shoulder width
- Knit 28 more rows for shoulder depth
- **RC 182**, COL
- *Checkpoint: Total body + shoulder = 26" (66cm) - this allows 4" shoulder drop*

### Bind-Off
- **RC 182**, COL
- With latch tool, chain bind-off method:
  1. Remove carriage, leaving work on machine
  2. Starting at right edge (needle 90R):
     - Hook latch tool through first stitch
     - Remove stitch from needle, let it hang on latch tool (open)
     - Hook through next stitch, pull through first stitch (closing latch)
     - Continue across all 180 sts
  3. At left edge, pull MY tail through final loop, tighten
- Remove from machine carefully
- Unravel waste yarn from cast-on edge

**Back Panel Complete:** Set aside

---

## FRONT PANEL

### Instructions
Repeat ALL instructions exactly as for Back Panel (RC 000 through RC 182)

*For beginner simplicity, front and back are identical. No neck shaping reduces complexity and makes assembly easier.*

**Front Panel Complete:** Set aside

---

## SLEEVES (Make 2 Identical)

### Setup
1. Push needles 30L to 30R into WP (60 needles total)  
   *Math check: 60 sts ÷ 5 sts/inch = 12" width ✓*
2. Set carriage to left (COL)
3. Set tension dial to T7
4. Thread WY through carriage

### Waste Yarn Cast-On
- **RC 000**, COL, T7, WY
- Lay ravel cord across needles
- Knit 8 rows WY, ending COR
- Hang cast-on comb, attach 2-3 weights evenly
- **RC 008**

### Cuff Ribbing
- Remove WY, thread MY
- **RC 008**, COR, T5, MY
- Knit 20 rows at tighter tension for rolled cuff
- **RC 028**, COL
- Change tension to T7
- *Checkpoint: Cuff should measure approximately 3" (7.5cm)*

### Sleeve Body (Straight - No Shaping)
*Beginner version uses rectangular sleeves for simplicity*

- **RC 028**, COL, T7, MY
- Knit straight until RC 147
- **RC 147**, COL (17"/43cm from beginning of MY)
- *Math check: 119 rows ÷ 7 rows/inch = 17" length ✓*
- Check actual length = should measure 17" (43cm) from bottom edge

### Bind-Off
- **RC 147**, COL
- Chain bind-off all 60 sts using latch tool (same method as back panel)
- Remove from machine
- Unravel waste yarn from cast-on edge

**Repeat for Second Sleeve**

---

## FINISHING & ASSEMBLY

### Blocking (Essential Step!)

1. **Steam Block Each Piece:**
   - Lay piece flat on blocking mat/towels
   - Pin to measurements:
     - Back/Front: 18" (46cm) wide × 22" (56cm) long
     - Sleeves: 12" (30cm) wide × 17" (43cm) long
   - Hold steam iron 1-2" (2.5-5cm) above fabric (DO NOT touch fabric directly)
   - Steam thoroughly, let cool completely (30+ minutes)
   - Edges will relax and curl naturally - this is expected

2. **Secure Rolled Edges (Optional):**
   - If you prefer flat edges instead of rolled, tack down with steam and light pressing
   - Use pressing cloth between iron and knitted fabric

### Seaming Order

**1. Shoulder Seams:**
- Place back and front panels right sides together
- Align shoulder edges (top bind-off edges)
- Measure 6" (15cm) in from each side edge - this is shoulder width
- Using tapestry needle and MY, mattress stitch or backstitch shoulder seams
- Leave center 6" (15cm) open for neck opening
  - *Math check: 18" total width - 6" left shoulder - 6" right shoulder = 6" neck opening ✓*

**2. Attach Sleeves:**
- Find center top of sleeve (fold in half, mark with pin)
- Match center of sleeve to shoulder seam
- Pin sleeve to body, distributing 12" (30cm) sleeve width across armhole opening
- Sleeve should extend 6" (15cm) on each side of shoulder seam (creates drop shoulder)
- Mattress stitch sleeve to body from armhole edge
- Repeat for second sleeve

**3. Side & Sleeve Seams:**
- Fold garment so front and back are right sides together
- Starting at bottom edge of body, mattress stitch side seam up to armhole
- Continue seaming down sleeve from armhole to cuff
- Repeat for other side
- Weave in all yarn ends securely (minimum 3"/7.5cm)

### Final Touches

1. **Try On:** Check fit and length before final blocking
2. **Final Steam:** Lightly steam all seams from wrong side
3. **Neck Finishing (Optional):** If neck edge is loose:
   - Single crochet or blanket stitch around opening with MY
   - Or leave as is for casual rolled neck
4. **Weave in Ends:** Use tapestry needle to weave tails along seam lines

---

## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

- **Hand Wash** in cool water with gentle detergent
- Roll in towel to remove excess water (do not wring)
- Lay flat to dry on towels, reshape to measurements
- Do not hang wet - this will stretch the garment
- Store folded, not hanging

---

## TROUBLESHOOTING

**Problem:** Stitches dropping during knitting  
**Solution:** Check needle latches for lint/debris. Slow carriage speed. Ensure weight is adequate.

**Problem:** Uneven edges  
**Solution:** Normal for stockinette. Will be hidden in seams. For cleaner edges, manually knit first/last stitch occasionally.

**Problem:** Gauge doesn't match  
**Solution:** Adjust tension dial. T6 = tighter, T8 = looser. Re-swatch after adjustment.

**Problem:** Sleeve too tight/loose  
**Solution:** Cast on 10 sts more/fewer (adjust in increments of 10 for symmetry).

**Problem