purlJam

<pattern>

# BOXY DROP-SHOULDER PULLOVER
**Beginner Machine Knit Pattern**

A relaxed, easy-fit sweater with minimal shaping—perfect for practicing machine knitting fundamentals. Features drop shoulders, ribbed neckband, and clean lines.

---

## MACHINE_SETUP

**Machine Type**: Standard gauge knitting machine (main bed)  
**Optional**: Ribber for neckband (instructions provided for both ribber and hand-finished alternatives)

**Bed Configuration**: Main bed only for body and sleeves; ribber attachment optional for neckband

**Cast-On Method**: Waste yarn and ravel cord  
- Use contrasting smooth waste yarn
- Knit 8–10 rows waste yarn at tension 10
- Knit 1 row ravel cord (crochet cotton or thin strong yarn)
- Switch to main yarn at working tension

**Tension Dial Settings**:  
- **Waste yarn**: T10 (loose)
- **Main stockinette**: T6–T7 (test on your machine; worsted weight typically uses T6-7)
- **Ribbing** (if using ribber): T4/T4 (main bed/ribber)

**Carriage Settings**:  
- Part button: off (unless otherwise noted)
- Slip/Tuck levers: normal knit position
- Change knob: KC (knit carriage, both directions)

**Tools Required**:
- Cast-on comb and weights (or clip-on weights)
- Transfer tools (single and 3-prong)
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Ravel cord
- Waste yarn
- Steam iron and pressing cloth

**Before You Begin**:  
Knit a 40-stitch × 60-row swatch in stockinette at T6, T7, and T8. Steam lightly. Measure gauge. Adjust tension dial if needed to achieve gauge listed below.

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Approximately 1,200 yards (1,100 m) worsted weight yarn  
*Sample shown uses a smooth worsted wool blend*

**Yardage by Section** (approximate):
- Back: 400 yards
- Front: 400 yards  
- Sleeves (2): 350 yards
- Neckband: 50 yards

**Notions**:
- Waste yarn (smooth contrasting color), approx 50 yards
- Ravel cord (crochet cotton or smooth thin yarn)
- Stitch markers or safety pins
- Measuring tape
- Sweater board or blocking mat (optional but recommended)

---

## GAUGE_AND_TENSION

**Stockinette Gauge** (after steaming):  
**4.5 stitches** and **6.5 rows** per inch (2.5 cm)

**To Measure Gauge**:
1. Knit swatch at least 40 stitches × 60 rows at working tension
2. Remove from machine with waste yarn (do not bind off tightly)
3. Steam lightly with pressing cloth, let cool completely
4. Measure over center 4" (10 cm) square, avoiding edges
5. Count stitches horizontally and rows vertically
6. Adjust tension dial up (looser) or down (tighter) if needed and re-swatch

**Tension Notes**:  
- Worsted yarn typically works at T6–T7 on standard gauge
- If your gauge is too tight (more than 4.5 st/in), increase tension number
- If too loose (fewer than 4.5 st/in), decrease tension number
- Consistent tension is more important than exact match—adjust pattern math if needed

---

## SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES

**Finished Measurements** (Size Medium, relaxed fit):

```
        BODY (Back & Front identical)
        ┌─────────────────────────┐
        │                         │
    24" │      22" wide           │ 
        │     (99 sts)            │
        │                         │
        └─────────────────────────┘

        SLEEVE (knit 2)
        ┌───────────────────┐  18" wide (81 sts)
        │                   │
        │   ╱             ╲ │
   18"  │  ╱               ╲│
        │ ╱                 │
        │╱                  │
        └───────────────────┘  9" wide (40 sts)
```

**Key Dimensions**:
- **Chest circumference**: 44" (111 cm) with 4–6" positive ease
- **Body length** (shoulder to hem): 24" (61 cm)
- **Sleeve length** (underarm to cuff): 18" (46 cm)
- **Shoulder width**: 22" (entire back width—drop shoulder construction)
- **Neck opening**: approximately 8" (20 cm) wide

**Stitch & Row Counts**:
- Back/Front width: 99 stitches
- Body length: 156 rows
- Sleeve at cuff: 40 stitches
- Sleeve at top: 81 stitches
- Sleeve length: 114 rows (adjusted for increase sequence)

**Sizing Notes**: This is a one-size pattern with relaxed boxy fit, suitable for 36–40" bust. To adjust size, recalculate based on gauge: desired width (in inches) × 4.5 sts/in = stitch count.

---

## BACK_PANEL

**Stitch Count**: 99 stitches  
**Row Count**: 156 rows  
**Finished Dimensions**: 22" wide × 24" long

### Setup

**RC000** (row counter at 000)  
Carriage at Right (COR)

1. Push 99 needles to work position (D position), centered on bed  
   *Suggestion: Use needles 50L to 49R for centering*

2. **Cast-On Sequence**:
   - Thread waste yarn, set tension to T10
   - COR: Knit 1 row to Left (COL)
   - Continue for 8 rows total waste yarn (RC will show 008)
   - COL: Lay ravel cord across needles in hooks
   - Knit 1 row to Right across ravel cord (RC 009)
   - Thread main yarn, set tension to **T7** (or your gauge tension)
   - Hang cast-on comb with weights evenly across all stitches

### Body

**RC000–RC156**: Stockinette body  
*Reset row counter to 000 after ravel cord row*

- COL: Knit to Right
- COR: Knit to Left
- Continue in stockinette (knit every row, carriage passes both directions)

**Weight Management**:
- Every 20–30 rows, move weights down to prevent stitch drop
- Check that all stitches are knitting cleanly

**RC050**: Mark this row with waste yarn or safety pin at left edge (reference point for sleeve placement later)

**RC100**: Check work length (should measure approximately 15.5" from ravel cord)

**RC156**: STOP, carriage at side (either COL or COR)

### Finishing Back

**At RC156**:

1. Thread waste yarn, T10
2. Knit 8 rows waste yarn
3. Remove work from machine, leaving waste yarn tail
4. Do NOT bind off—leave stitches live in waste yarn for finishing

**Label piece**: "BACK – 99 sts × 156 rows"

---

## FRONT_PANEL

**Stitch Count**: 99 stitches (reduces to 81 at shoulders due to neck shaping)  
**Row Count**: 156 rows  
**Finished Dimensions**: 22" wide × 24" long (with neck opening)

### Setup

Repeat exact setup as BACK_PANEL through RC000.

### Body to Neckline

**RC000–RC130**: Stockinette body (same as back)

- Knit straight stockinette
- Hang and adjust weights as needed
- RC050: Mark for sleeve placement reference

**RC130**: Check carriage position  
*You should be at either COL or COR. The following instructions assume COR. If at COL, knit 1 more row to reach COR.*

### Neckline Shaping (Simple Center Hold)

**RC130**, COR:

The neckline is worked by holding center stitches, working sides separately, then binding off center.

**Goal**: Create 8" (36-stitch) neck opening centered on front.

**Setup for holds**:
- Center 36 stitches will be held: 18L to 18R
- Left shoulder: 50L to 19L (32 stitches)
- Right shoulder: 19R to 49R (32 stitches)

**RC130 COR**:
1. Push center 36 needles (18L–18R) to hold position (D to E, or use hold button if available)
2. Knit to Left (RC131 COL)
3. Knit to Right (RC132 COR)
4. Continue stockinette on shoulder stitches only

**RC131–RC156** (26 more rows on shoulders):
- Knit straight on 63 working stitches (32L + 32R, center held)
- Center stitches remain in hold—do not knit them
- Carriage will move across, skipping held needles

**RC156 COR** (or COL):

1. Thread waste yarn, T10
2. Knit 8 rows waste yarn across ALL needles (including held center)
   - First pass will bring center needles back into work
3. Remove from machine

**Neck Opening Finish**:
- Later, you will unravel the held center stitches and pick up around neckline for band
- The hold creates a horizontal bar; plan to cover with neckband rehang

**Label piece**: "FRONT – neckline shaped"

---

## SLEEVES

**Make 2 identical sleeves.**

**Stitch Count**: 40 stitches at cuff, increasing to 81 stitches at top  
**Row Count**: 114 rows  
**Finished Dimensions**: 9" wide at cuff, 18" wide at top, 17.5" long

### Setup

**RC000**, COR

1. Push 40 needles to work position, centered  
   *Suggestion: 20L to 20R*

2. **Cast-On** (same method as body):
   - Waste yarn, T10, 8 rows
   - Ravel cord, 1 row
   - Main yarn, T7
   - Hang cast-on comb with weights

### Sleeve Increases

**Goal**: Increase from 40 sts to 81 sts = add 41 sts (increase approximately 20–21 sts each side)

**Increase Schedule**: Every 6 rows, bring out 1 needle each side

**Increase Plan**:
- Total increases needed: 41 stitches
- Each increase pair adds 2 stitches
- 41 ÷ 2 = 20.5 → work 20 increase pairs, then 1 final single increase
- 20 pairs × 6 rows = 120 rows (exceeds our target)

**Adjusted Schedule**:  
Increase 1 stitch each side every 6 rows, 20 times = 40 sts added  
Then on final section, add 1 more stitch on one side = 41 total

### Row-by-Row Increases

**RC000–RC006**: Knit straight (no increases)  
- 40 stitches in work

**RC006 COR** (or COL—adapt as needed):
- **First Increase**: Push 1 needle to D on left (21L) and 1 needle to D on right (21R)  
- Knit 1 row—needles pick up yarn and knit (42 sts)

**RC007–RC012**: Knit straight

**RC012**: Increase (bring 22L and 22R to D) → 44 sts

**Continue pattern**:  
Every 6th row, push next needle out on each side:

| RC  | Needles in Work         | Total Sts |
|-----|-------------------------|-----------|
| 000 | 20L–20R                 | 40        |
| 006 | 21L–21R                 | 42        |
| 012 | 22L–22R                 | 44        |
| 018 | 23L–23R                 | 46        |
| 024 | 24L–24R                 | 48        |
| 030 | 25L–25R                 | 50        |
| 036 | 26L–26R                 | 52        |
| 042 | 27L–27R                 | 54        |
| 048 | 28L–28R                 | 56        |
| 054 | 29L–29R                 | 58        |
| 060 | 30L–30R                 | 60        |
| 066 | 31L–31R                 | 62        |
| 072 | 32L–32R                 | 64        |
| 078 | 33L–33R                 | 66        |
| 084 | 34L–34R                 | 68        |
| 090 | 35L–35R                 | 70        |
| 096 | 36L–36R                 | 72        |
| 102 | 37L–37R