purlJam

<pattern>

# RAINBOW STRIPES DROP-SHOULDER PULLOVER

A beginner-friendly machine-knit pullover featuring cheerful horizontal stripes in cream, pastel green, olive green, mustard, and navy. This classic drop-shoulder design uses simple stockinette panels with ribbed edges—perfect for learning color changes and basic garment construction.

---

## MACHINE_SETUP

**Machine Type**: Standard gauge knitting machine with ribber attachment

**Bed Configuration**: 
- Main bed for stockinette body
- Ribber for 1x1 rib hems and neckband

**Preparation Steps**:
1. **Swatch**: Cast on 40 stitches using waste yarn and ravel cord method. Knit 60 rows in stockinette at Tension 6 (main dial). Remove from machine, steam lightly, and measure gauge.
2. **Gauge Bed**: Standard gauge (200 needles, 4.5mm spacing)
3. **Cast-On Method**: Waste yarn + ravel cord for hems; allows easy rehanging for finishing
4. **Weights**: Use standard cast-on comb + 4-6 weights distributed evenly; rehang weights every 40-60 rows
5. **Tension Dial**: 
   - Rib sections: Main bed T5, Ribber T4
   - Stockinette body: Main bed T6
   - Adjust ±1 for individual yarn tension
6. **Ribber Pitch**: P (standard pitch) setting
7. **Carriage Settings**: Normal knit levers; cancel hold when knitting all needles, activate hold (H) only during neckline shaping

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Worsted weight (approximately 1,000-1,200 yards total)
- **Cream (MC)**: 300 yards
- **Pastel Green (C1)**: 200 yards
- **Olive Green (C2)**: 200 yards
- **Mustard (C3)**: 200 yards
- **Navy (C4)**: 200 yards

**Notions**:
- Ravel cord (smooth waste yarn)
- Cast-on comb + 4-6 weights
- Transfer tools (single and 3-prong)
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Stitch holders or waste yarn
- Sweater board (optional, for blocking)

**Tools Required Throughout**:
- Row counter (RC)
- Steam iron and pressing cloth
- Blocking pins

---

## GAUGE_AND_TENSION

**Stockinette Gauge** (after steaming):
- **Stitch Gauge**: 4.5 stitches per inch (18 sts = 4")
- **Row Gauge**: 6.5 rows per inch (65 rows = 10")

**Tension Settings**:
- Main bed rib: T5
- Ribber: T4
- Main bed stockinette: T6

**Measuring Your Swatch**:
1. Knit swatch at T6 for minimum 40 sts × 60 rows
2. Remove from machine; do NOT stretch
3. Steam lightly with pressing cloth, hover iron 1" above fabric
4. Allow to cool flat for 30 minutes
5. Measure in center of swatch, avoiding edges
6. If gauge is off: looser = decrease tension dial by 1; tighter = increase by 1

---

## SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES

**Finished Measurements**:

| Size | Bust | Body Length | Sleeve Length | Upper Arm |
|------|------|-------------|---------------|-----------|
| S | 36" (91cm) | 24" (61cm) | 17" (43cm) | 16" (41cm) |
| M | 40" (102cm) | 24" (61cm) | 17" (43cm) | 16" (41cm) |
| L | 44" (112cm) | 24" (61cm) | 17" (43cm) | 16" (41cm) |

**Stitch Counts by Size**:
- **Back/Front Width**: S: 81 sts | M: 90 sts | L: 99 sts
- **Sleeve Cuff**: All sizes: 36 sts
- **Sleeve Upper Arm**: All sizes: 72 sts

**Fit**: Designed with 2-4" positive ease for comfortable, relaxed fit

**Schematic Notes**:
- Drop shoulder: sleeve cap sits 1" below natural shoulder point
- Neckline: 5" wide front neck opening
- Shoulder width: S: 18" | M: 20" | L: 22" (full back width)

---

## BACK_PANEL

**Stitch Count**: S: 81 sts | M: 90 sts | L: 99 sts

### SETUP
1. Set main bed to T5, ribber to T4
2. Arrange needles for 1x1 rib: every other needle on main bed and ribber, centered on 0
   - S: 40 needles main bed (left 40 to right 41), 41 needles ribber
   - M: 45 needles main bed, 45 needles ribber  
   - L: 49 needles main bed, 50 needles ribber
3. Using waste yarn and ravel cord, cast on with carriage at right (COR)

### RIB HEM
- **RC000**: Knit 1 row waste yarn to secure
- **RC001-002**: Knit 2 rows waste yarn
- Remove ravel cord
- **RC003**: Join **NAVY (C4)**, COR
- **RC004-023**: Knit 20 rows 1x1 rib in Navy (10 ridges)
- End COR, RC023

### TRANSFER TO MAIN BED
- **RC023**: Carriage at right
- Using transfer tools, move all ribber stitches to corresponding main bed needles (creates stockinette)
- For odd stitch counts: transfer final stitch to adjacent needle (creates 1 decrease—acceptable)
- Drop ribber or swing out of work
- Hang cast-on comb + weights evenly across width

### STOCKINETTE BODY - COLOR SEQUENCE
**Main Bed Tension: T6**

Each color block = 20 rows (easy RC tracking)

- **RC024-043**: **NAVY (C4)** - 20 rows, end COR, RC043
  - At RC030: Check weight placement, redistribute if needed
  
- **RC044-063**: **CREAM (MC)** - 20 rows, end COR, RC063
  - Color change: break Navy leaving 6" tail; join Cream at right

- **RC064-083**: **PASTEL GREEN (C1)** - 20 rows, end COR, RC083
  
- **RC084-103**: **MUSTARD (C3)** - 20 rows, end COR, RC103
  - At RC090: Rehang weights
  
- **RC104-123**: **OLIVE GREEN (C2)** - 20 rows, end COR, RC123
  
- **RC124-143**: **CREAM (MC)** - 20 rows, end COR, RC143
  
- **RC144-163**: **NAVY (C4)** - 20 rows, end COR, RC163
  - At RC150: Rehang weights; check for even fabric

### FINISHING BACK
- **RC163**: End with carriage at right
- Knit 3 rows waste yarn
- Remove from machine using ravel cord
- Steam lightly and set aside

**INLINE MATH CHECK**:  
Body rows: RC163 - RC023 = 140 rows stockinette + 20 rows rib = 160 total  
Length: 140 rows ÷ 6.5 rows/inch = 21.5" + 3" rib = 24.5" ✓ (allows for hem fold)

---

## FRONT_PANEL

**Stitch Count**: S: 81 sts | M: 90 sts | L: 99 sts

Work exactly as for BACK through RC143 (through 6th stripe).

### NECKLINE SHAPING BEGINS
- **RC144**: Begin **NAVY (C4)**, COR

**Neckline Width**: 23 sts center (approximately 5")

#### Calculate Hold Positions:
- S: 81 sts - 23 center = 58 sts remaining ÷ 2 = 29 sts each shoulder
- M: 90 sts - 23 center = 67 sts ÷ 2 = 33 sts each shoulder (round down left shoulder to 33)
- L: 99 sts - 23 center = 76 sts ÷ 2 = 38 sts each shoulder

**Mark center needles** (to be held):
- S: 12 needles left of center, 11 right of center = 23 total
- M: 11 needles each side = 22 total (12+11 = 23 to match)
- L: 11 needles left, 12 right = 23 total

### HOLD PATTERN (RC144-163)
Set carriage to HOLD (H position).

**RC144**: COR
- Move center 11 needles (both sides of 0) to hold position (D)
- Knit to left (COL)

**RC145**: COL  
- Move 3 more needles each side to hold (total 17 in hold)
- Knit to right (COR)

**RC146**: COR
- Move 3 more needles each side to hold (total 23 in hold)
- Knit to left (COL)

**RC147-163**: Continue knitting shoulders only (23 needles remain in hold)
- Knit 17 more rows in Navy
- End COR, RC163

### FINISHING FRONT
- **RC163**: Cancel HOLD (back to normal knit)
- Push all held needles back to B position
- Knit 3 rows waste yarn across ALL needles
- Remove from machine using ravel cord
- Steam lightly

**INLINE MATH CHECK**:  
Neckline depth: 20 rows ÷ 6.5 rows/inch = 3" ✓  
Shoulder stitches S: 29 ÷ 4.5 st/inch = 6.4" × 2 = 12.8" + 5" neck = 17.8" ✓ (close to 18" target)

---

## SLEEVES

**Make 2 identical sleeves**

**Stitch Count**: 
- Cuff: 36 sts (8")
- Upper Arm: 72 sts (16")
- Increases needed: 36 sts over body of sleeve

### SETUP RIB CUFF
1. Main bed T5, ribber T4
2. Arrange 36 needles in 1x1 rib (18 main bed, 18 ribber), centered
3. Cast on with waste yarn + ravel cord, COR

### RIB CUFF
- **RC000-002**: Waste yarn setup
- **RC003**: Join **NAVY (C4)**
- **RC004-033**: Knit 30 rows 1x1 rib (15 ridges), end COR

### TRANSFER TO MAIN BED
- **RC033**: Transfer all ribber sts to main bed (36 sts active)
- Drop ribber, main bed T6
- Hang comb + weights

### SLEEVE INCREASES
**Increase Plan**: Bring 1 needle into work each side every 6 rows (18 increases each side = 36 total)

**Color Sequence** (matching body):

- **RC034-053**: **NAVY (C4)** - 20 rows
  - RC034: COR, begin stockinette
  - RC040: Bring 1 needle into work each edge (38 sts)
  - RC046: Increase (40 sts)
  - RC052: Increase (42 sts)
  - End COR, RC053

- **RC054-073**: **CREAM (MC)** - 20 rows
  - RC058: Increase (44 sts)
  - RC064: Increase (46 sts)
  - RC070: Increase (48 sts)
  - At RC065: Rehang weights
  - End COR, RC073

- **RC074-093**: **PASTEL GREEN (C1)** - 20 rows
  - RC076: Increase (50 sts)
  - RC082: Increase (52 sts)
  - RC088: Increase (54 sts)
  - End COR, RC093

- **RC094-113**: **MUSTARD (C3)** - 20 rows
  - RC094: Increase (56 sts)
  - RC100: Increase (58 sts)
  - RC106: Increase (60 sts)
  - RC112: Increase (62 sts)
  - End COR, RC113

- **RC114-133**: **OLIVE GREEN (C2)** - 20 rows
  - RC118: Increase (64 sts)
  - RC124: Increase (66 sts)
  - RC130: Increase (68 sts)
  - End COR, RC133

- **RC134-143**: **CREAM (MC)** - 10 rows
  - RC136: Increase (70 sts)
  - RC142: Increase (72 sts) **FINAL INCREASE**
  - End COR, RC143

- **RC144-153**: **NAVY (C4)** - 10 rows (cap)
  - Knit straight on 72 sts
  - End COR, RC153

### FINISHING SLEEVE
- **RC153**: Knit 3 rows waste yarn