Advanced Standing Dragon Plush (Large Wings, Ribbed Belly, Expressive Face)

Advanced-level amigurumi crochet pattern for a poseable standing dragon with long snout, curved horns, expressive eyebrows, large articulated wings with membranes, a ribbed belly panel, and a long tail. The pattern uses continuous rounds, shaping, optional wire for poseability, and integrated weight/foot reinforcement for stable standing. Finished size: approx 16-22 in / 40-56 cm tall depending on yarn and stuffing tension.

Materials

• Yarn (worsted/aran weight recommended, Medium/4): Main color: 400-600 yards / 366-549 m (approx 2-3 skeins of 100 g = 200 yd / 183 m each). Contrast (belly): 150-250 yards / 137-229 m. Wing membrane or accent: 100-200 yards / 91-183 m. Horns/eyebrows/spines: small amounts (25-50 yards / 23-46 m each).
• Hook sizes (US, UK Old, Metric): 3.5 mm (E-4 US, 9 UK old) for tighter amigurumi fabric; 4.0 mm (G-6 US, 8 UK old) as alternate for softer fabric; 2.75 mm (C-2 US, 10 UK old) optionally for horns/eyebrows to make tighter tubes. Use the smallest hook that gives a firm fabric for stuffing.
• Notions: stitch markers, tapestry needle, polyfill stuffing, poly-pellets or glass beads for weighted feet (optional), thin craft wire (20-24 gauge) for wing/neck/tail poseability (optional), locking safety eyes (10-16 mm) or embroidered eyes, small amount of sewing thread to match, sewing pins, optional felt discs or heavy card for foot reinforcement.

Gauge & Finished Measurements

Gauge is not critical for sizing but is important for stuffing-to-stitch ratio for clean shaping. Recommended: 18-20 sc = 4 in / 10 cm when using worsted weight and 3.5 mm hook. Adjust hook for tighter fabric if stuffing shows through.

Abbreviations (US terms) + UK equivalent

• ch = chain (UK: ch)
• sc = single crochet (UK: dc)
• hdc = half double crochet (UK: htr)
• dc = double crochet (UK: tr)
• sl st = slip stitch (UK: sl st)
• inc = increase (2 sc in same st)
• dec = decrease (sc2tog) (UK: dc2tog)
• BLO = back loops only
• FLO = front loops only
• FP = front post, BP = back post (use US notation)

Pattern Notes

• Worked in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise. Use a stitch marker to mark round start.
• I use US terms throughout. UK equivalents are shown above.
• For a firm fabric use a hook 0.5-1.0 mm smaller than yarn label recommendation.
• When wiring wings/neck/tail, insert craft wire inside hollow channels or along the seam and anchor ends inside body where possible; always cover wire ends securely and do not use wire for toys intended for small children.
• Feet can be reinforced with felt/card discs and weighted with pellets sealed in a small pouch to help the dragon stand.

Overview of Construction

1. Make foot soles & legs (make 2). Insert reinforcement and weight.
2. Make body in continuous rounds, join legs as you go for clean join and stability.
3. Make ribbed belly panel separately (crocheted flat) and sew to front of body; you may also crochet belly directly with post stitches as you work the body.
4. Make head & long snout (make as one piece or make snout separately and sew). Stuff lightly; leave opening to attach to body.
5. Make horns (curved), eyebrows (small ridged pieces), ears/nostrils as appliques. Add expressive embroidery for pupils/eyebrows/wrinkles.
6. Make wings: each wing has 3-5 ribs (arched supports) crocheted as elongated curved tubes; join ribs with membrane panels worked in rows or rounds. Insert wire into ribs if desired, then attach to back with reinforced seam.
7. Make tail: long tapered tube with optional dorsal fin/ridges and membrane spines; insert wire if poseable tail is desired.
8. Assembly: position and sew components, embroider face details, hook on spikes/horns, and finish.

Detailed Stitch Techniques & Tips

• Ribbed belly: two options: (A) Crochet a rectangular panel in rows using front post double crochet (FPdc) alternating with HDC rows to create deep ribs; block lightly and curve to body; then whipstitch to front panels. (B) Work horizontal ribbing directly on body by making 3-4 rounds of FPsc/BPsc to create raised ribs — this gives a subtler rib.
• Expressive eyebrows: crochet a short tube or small ridged rectangle in tight gauge, stuff lightly, use surface slip stitch or embroidery to create an angled crease; sew above the eyes and tack down one or both ends to create a furrowed expressive look.
• Curved horns: work small conical tubes with strategic increases at base and decreases near tip. To get permanent curve, lightly bend the stuffed horn and tack seam so curve holds, or add wire shaped to curve and close the gap.
• Long snout shaping: create a tapered elongated muzzle by working increases then long rounds before decreasing; stitch the top seam with an invisible join and add nostril embroidery or small sewn-on nostril pieces.
• Wing ribs & membranes: ribs are crocheted as elongated arched tubes (start with a short foundation row, increase along one side and decrease along the other to create a curve). Make two or three ribs per wing and join them at the base; then work membrane panels across ribs by crocheting rows of hdc/dc sloped between ribs, finishing edges with picot or sc scallop for character.

Pattern: Feet & Legs (both the same)

Make 2. Work in continuous rounds. Feet are made with a sole disc, then ankle/leg tube.

Sole (make 2):
With MC and 3.5 mm hook:
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) around (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) around (30)
Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Optional: sew a felt/card disc to inside and add a small sealed pouch of pellets.

Ankle/leg (attach to sole):
Join MC to edge of sole and work continuous rounds up the leg:
R1-R6: sc around (30)
R7: (3 sc, dec) around (24)
R8-R18: sc around (24) or until desired leg length
Stuff foot and lower leg firmly. Leave long tail for joining to body.

Body

Work in continuous rounds. Attach legs as you go for a cleaner join: leave the two leg openings and work body rounds joining between or sew legs on later if preferred.

With MC and 3.5 mm hook:
Start: magic ring
R1: 6 sc (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) around (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) around (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) around (36)
R7-R12: sc around (36)
R13: (4 sc, dec) around (30)
Now if you want legs integrated: mark positions where legs will attach (~opposite points). Join leg tails and sc across the leg tops to integrate, then continue body rounds. Otherwise continue:
R14-R20: sc around (30)
R21: (3 sc, dec) around (24)
R22-R28: sc around (24)
R29: (2 sc, dec) around (18)
R30-R34: sc around (18)
R35: (sc, dec) around (12) -- shape for neck base
Leave opening for head join. Stuff firmly but leave room to join head. Finish off and leave long tail for sewing if head will be sewn on.

Ribbed Belly Panel (Flat)

Make a rectangular panel to sew onto front of body. Adjust width to match front of body. Example for a 10-12 cm front width:

Using Belly Color and 3.5 mm hook:
Chain 24.
Row1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (23)
Row2: ch1, turn. BLO sc across (23)
Row3: ch2, turn. FPdc row: create raised ribs by working FPdc in every st across (23)
Repeat Rows 2-3 until panel length is approx the height of belly (about 10-14 rows, or to fit). Finish and sew centered to front of body with whipstitch. Optionally add 2-3 rounds of sc around edge to tidy seam and secure.

Head & Long Snout

With MC and 3.5 mm hook:
Head Base:
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) around (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) around (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) around (30)
R6-R9: sc around (30)
Start Snout (attach to front of head or crochet separately):
For long snout: increase slightly then continue longer rounds before decreasing.
R10: (4 sc, inc) around (36) - if making longer snout, add a few more increase rounds to lengthen nose base
R11-R18: sc around (36) - length determines snout length
Then begin taper:
R19: (4 sc, dec) around (30)
R20-R24: sc around (30)
R25: (3 sc, dec) around (24)
R26-R30: sc around (24)
R31: (2 sc, dec) around (18)
R32-R34: sc around (18)
Close tip with decreases and fasten off, leaving long tail to sew to body. Stuff snout lightly and keep shape elongated. For a more pronounced muzzle ridge, embroider a nose bridge (vertical surface slip stitch) and sew in small nostril patches.

Horns (Make 2)

With horns color and 2.75-3.0 mm hook:
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: (sc, inc) around (9)
R3-R5: sc around (9)
R6: (sc, dec) around (6)
R7-R9: sc around (6)
Stuff lightly. To create curve: flatten and stitch seam along inside curve or insert wire partially and bend. Sew horns to top of head angled back. For ram-like curved horns, make slightly longer tubes and braid or coil upon themselves before securing.

Eyebrows & Face Details

Eyebrows (make 2):
With eyebrow color and 2.75-3.5 mm hook:
Chain 6.
Row1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (5)
Row2: ch1, turn, BLO sc across (5)
Repeat for 3-4 rows to build a thick ridge. Fold lengthwise and seam bottom to make a small tube or keep flat for a raised brow. Stiffen slightly with fabric glue if desired. Sew in place above eyes and tack one end down to create an angled furrow.

Eyes: Use safety eyes 12-16 mm inserted between head rounds before closing, or embroider eyes with satin stitch for expressive results. Add eyelids by sewing small half-crescent applique above the eye with a few stitches to tilt eyelid for expression.

Wings (Make 2 Large Wings)

Each wing consists of 3 ribs (inner middle outer) and a membrane panel. Adjust scale to body size.

Rib (make 3 per wing):
With MC and 3.5 mm hook:
Chain 20 (adjust for wing length)
Row1: sc in 2nd ch and across (19)
Row2: ch1 turn, sc across (19)
Row3: Start shaping the arch: dec first 4 sts across the inner side, then sc center, inc last 4 sts to create a gentle curve. Continue a few rows alternating decreases on inner edge and increases on outer edge to create an arched profile (about 6-10 rows depending on wing height). Fold and seam inner edge leaving small opening to insert wire if desired, then stuff lightly.

Membrane panel (per wing):
After ribs are done and placed in order (inner, middle, outer) leaving approx 1-2 cm gap at base, join yarn at base and work rows across ribs connecting them.
Row1: join at base, ch to first rib, sc around rib base to secure, ch to next rib, sc around base, then work sc rows across between ribs using hdc/dc to create flat membrane. Work 10-15 rows until membrane has desired height. Finish with scallop edge: *sc, ch2, sl st* across outer edge for a stylized edge.

Assembly: Place the three ribs at their spacing, pin membrane flat between them and stitch the membrane to ribs close to edges. Insert thin craft wire into ribs or along top edge of ribs for poseability. Attach wing base to back of body at shoulder blades, reinforce with multiple passes and a ladder stitch or whipstitch and hide ends inside the body.

Tail

With MC and 3.5 mm hook:
Start with magic ring:
R1: 6 sc (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3-R40: sc around increasing and decreasing to shape a tapered long tail (keep wider near base and taper to tip). Optionally add dorsal spikes along top by crocheting small triangles or small sc bumps every 4-6 rounds. For a finned tail, add a triangular membrane worked in rows and sew along underside or top. Insert craft wire through tail if you want it poseable; cover ends securely in body.

Assembly & Finishing

1. Sew head to body: make sure orientation is correct; add more stuffing to neck to hold position. If using wire for neck, insert before final closure and cover wire ends.
2. Attach horns, eyebrows, ears, nostrils, and spines. Use matching sewing thread and secure with multiple stitches.
3. Attach wings: center on upper back, secure with strong thread and reinforce by sewing through a few body rounds. Optionally glue an inner seam then stitch to secure permanently.
4. Embroider facial details: pupils, eye catches, nostril shading, smile lines. Use layered stitches for expression. Add small highlights with white embroidery thread or tiny felt shapes behind safety eyes for life-like gaze.
5. Weave in all ends. Add a final balancing of stuffing — more in limbs and less in head to maintain stability. Add a weighted pouch into belly/foot area for standing.

Optional Variations & Troubleshooting

• Make a softer fabric by using slightly larger hook but be careful of stuffing showing through.
• For very large wings, consider making ribs out of a lightweight plastic boning inside crochet tubes for extra strength.
• If belly panel puckers, block it flat and sew with small invisible stitches; adding a round of sc around the body seam can hide join and tension differences.
• For a snout that tends to droop, add a short piece of wire anchored inside the head to reinforce upward tilt.

Care & Safety

Not intended for children under 3 if using safety eyes, beads or wire. For a child-safe toy: embroider eyes and leave out wires and beads. Gentle hand wash cold; reshape while damp and air dry. Remove wire before washing if possible.

Support & Credits

Pattern created for PurlJam. For questions or clarifications contact team@verde.uk. Visit https://purljam.verde.uk and follow socials: #purljam.

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