Baby Yoda T‑Shirt Dress with Hooded Baby Face and Built‑in Skort - Knitting Pattern

Design notes: A comfy t‑shirt style dress with a separate hood that carries a Baby Yoda inspired face (use duplicate stitch or embroidery for the face), plus a separate pair of knit shorts sewn into the inside of the waist to create a built‑in skort. Worked in DK / light worsted yarn. Instructions given for sizes 6–12 months, 12–18 months, 2T, 3T and 4T. This is a fan‑art project for personal use only.

Materials

• Yarn: DK / light worsted cotton or cotton blend. Suggested: washable DK. Approximate amounts (main color = green): 6–12m: 300 yds / 274 m (~114 g); 12–18m: 350 yds / 320 m (~133 g); 2T: 400 yds / 366 m (~153 g); 3T: 450 yds / 411 m (~171 g); 4T: 500 yds / 457 m (~190 g). Small amounts (10–25 yds) of cream/beige for snout, dark brown/black for eyes & nostrils, blush/pink for inner ear.
• Needles (knitting): 16" / 40 cm circular needle and 24" / 60 cm circular for working body in the round; plus set of double‑pointed needles or magic‑loop method for small circumference work (sleeves/hood tips). Recommended sizes: US 6 (4.0 mm) / UK (old) 8 / 4.0 mm for body and rib, and US 7 (4.5 mm) / UK (old) 7 / 4.5 mm if you want a slightly looser fabric for skirt flare or hood. Crochet hook: 3.25 mm (US D/3) for mattress stitch joining and edge finishing.
• Notions: stitch markers, yarn needle, small amount of thin elastic (optional) for shorts waistband, pins, scrap yarn, tapestry needle, sewing needle for embroidery.

Gauge

22 sts and 28 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 6 (4.0 mm). Adjust needle size to match gauge.

Finished measurements (approx)

• 6–12 months: chest 21" / 53 cm; torso shoulder→waist 9" / 23 cm; skirt length (waist→hem) 7.5" / 19 cm
• 12–18 months: chest 22" / 56 cm; torso 10" / 25 cm; skirt 8" / 20 cm
• 2T: chest 23" / 58.5 cm; torso 10.5" / 27 cm; skirt 9" / 23 cm
• 3T: chest 24" / 61 cm; torso 11" / 28 cm; skirt 9.5" / 24 cm
• 4T: chest 25" / 63.5 cm; torso 11.5" / 29 cm; skirt 10" / 25 cm

Abbreviations

k = knit, p = purl, st(s) = stitch(es), k2tog = knit 2 together, ssk = slip, slip, knit (left‑leaning dec), RS = right side, WS = wrong side, CO = cast on, BO = bind off, K1P1 = 1x1 rib, pm = place marker, *...* = repeat between asterisks.

Notes

• This pattern is worked bottom‑up for the body, then divided to shape armholes and neckline. Short sleeves are picked up and worked in the round. The shorts are knitted separately and sewn to the inside of the waistline to create the built‑in skort. The skirt is worked in the round from the waist down and seamed to the skirt hemline if needed.
• For the Baby Yoda face: I recommend knitting the hood entirely in the main green color, then adding face details with duplicate stitch or simple embroidery (cream snout, two dark oval eyes, small nostrils). Ears are knit as flat pieces and sewn on. Intarsia is possible but fiddly on a small hood; duplicate stitch gives you cleaner, no‑float result.

Stitch counts to cast on (full chest, worked in the round)

• 6–12m: CO 116 sts
• 12–18m: CO 124 sts
• 2T: CO 128 sts
• 3T: CO 132 sts
• 4T: CO 140 sts

Body - Hem to underarm (work in the round)

1. Using smaller needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm), CO the total number of sts for your size. Join carefully being careful not to twist; place marker for beginning of round.
2. Work 1.5" / 4 cm of 1x1 rib (K1,P1 around).
3. Switch to stockinette in the round (knit every round) and continue until piece measures (from hem) the torso length to waist given in Finished Measurements minus 0.5" (to allow rib at waist if you want). Example: for 6–12m work until about 8.5" from hem.

Divide for armholes and shape back

1. Place center front and center back markers if you wish. Divide stitches: work back panel flat across half the total stitches, then work front panel flat across the other half (you will work back first, then front — seam the shoulders later).
2. Back: Work across your back stitches flat. At each armhole edge bind off 4 sts once (you will be working back and forth now). Then decrease 1 st at each armhole edge every RS row 3 times (ssk at left edge, k2tog at right edge) to slope the armhole. Continue without further decreases until back piece from underarm to shoulder measures 3" / 7.5 cm (baby sizes shorter: 2.75" / 7 cm for 6–12m) or desired shoulder depth. BO all remaining stitches for the shoulder (leave center back stitches on waste yarn if you prefer a shoulder seam). Note: exact shoulder BO count will be roughly 1/2 of back sts; maintain symmetry.

Front - shape neck

1. Work front flat. At each armhole edge mirror the same armhole shaping (BO 4 sts, then dec 1 st at each armhole edge every RS row 3 times).
2. When you reach the same distance down from underarm as the back shoulder measurement, shape the neck: BO center 8–10 sts (use fewer for smaller sizes: 8 sts for 6–12m, 9 sts for 12–18m, 10 sts for 2T+). Work each shoulder side separately and dec 1 st at the neck edge every RS row 3 times (ssk on left shoulder, k2tog on right shoulder) then continue straight until shoulder depth matches back. BO remaining shoulder stitches. Repeat for the other shoulder side if you work one at a time.

Finish shoulders

Block pieces gently to measurements. Use mattress stitch to seam the shoulder seams (seam front shoulder to back shoulder). You may choose to leave a small back neck opening and sew a small button and loop if you prefer easier dressing.

Sleeves (short cap sleeve)

1. Pick up stitches evenly around each armhole with smaller needles (US 6). Pick up about 32 sts for 6–12m, 36 sts for 12–18m, 40 sts for 2T, 42 sts for 3T, 44 sts for 4T (approx — pick up slightly more/less to fit your armhole; count should be even for 1x1 rib if you choose).
2. Join in round and work 1.25" / 3.5 cm of 1x1 rib. Then switch to stockinette (knit) and work 0.5–1.0" / 1.5–2.5 cm more for a short cap sleeve. Bind off loosely in pattern. Repeat for second sleeve.

Waist finishing (prepare to attach shorts/skirt)

Work a 1" / 2.5 cm of 1x1 rib at waist if desired, or leave edge plain. Bind off loosely. Block body to measurements.

Shorts (knit separately and sew inside waist to make built‑in skort)

Make 1 pair; sew into the inside of the dress waistline.

1. Waistband: CO (in the round) 64 sts for 6–12m, 72 sts for 12–18m, 80 sts for 2T, 88 sts for 3T, 96 sts for 4T on US 6 circular or DPNs. Join to work in the round, place marker.
2. Work K1,P1 rib for 1–1.25" / 2.5–3 cm. Optional: leave a small opening at the back to thread a 1/4" elastic through (sew a channel and insert elastic). Alternatively, fold down rib to make a firm waistband and seam.
3. Legs: After waistband, switch to stockinette and work evenly for leg length (measure inseam goal): 3" / 7.5 cm for 6–12m, 3.5" / 9 cm for 12–18m, 4" / 10 cm for 2T, 4.25" / 11 cm for 3T, 4.5" / 11.5 cm for 4T. Divide for legs: place markers so that you have half the stitches for each leg; work back and forth to create a split crotch or work in the round and then graft the crotch seam. A simple method: work both legs flat, seam each leg, then seam the crotch using mattress stitch leaving a bit of rise for comfort.
4. Crotch & rise: Seam front and back between legs so the shorts form a brief shape. Try on and adjust rise before finishing. Sew shorts to the inside of the dress at the waist seam: align waistband to the inside of dress waist and sew with slip stitch or mattress stitch so the shorts are secure but elastic optional access remains.

Skirt (worked in the round and sewn over the shorts)

1. Pick up and knit around the outside of the waistline of the dress if you did a separate waistband rib, or simply continue working from the body if you left live stitches: pick up a stitch in every st or every other st to get a neat joining. Aim for the same stitch count you had at the chest.
2. Work 1–2 rounds of stockinette to settle, then increase 8 sts evenly around (or 16 sts for larger flare) to begin an A‑line. Repeat an increase round every 2" / 5 cm three times for gentle fullness (adjust to taste). Alternatively, if you want a tiered flounce, work stockinette for desired length then pick up along the hem and work a gathered frill.
3. Work until skirt measures the intended length (see Finished Measurements). Finish with 1.25" / 3 cm of 1x1 rib or a few rows of garter stitch for a stable hem. Bind off loosely.

Hood with Baby Face

Hood is knit flat and seamed or knit in the round on circulars and grafted at the top. Hood will be slightly rounded and sized to fit child's head with negative ease so it stays on.

1. With main green yarn and larger needles if desired (US 7 for slightly softer hood), CO 60 sts for 6–12m, 64 sts for 12–18m, 68 sts for 2T, 74 sts for 3T, 78 sts for 4T.
2. Work 1.25" / 3 cm of 1x1 rib across. Switch to stockinette and work flat (or in the round) for 5–6" / 12–15 cm from cast on edge for toddlers (less for babies: 4.5" / 11.5 cm for 6–12m). End with RS facing for top shaping.
3. Top shaping: Row 1 (RS): *k6, k2tog* across. Row 2 (WS): purl. Row 3: *k5, k2tog* across. Continue in this manner decreasing the inter‑decrease stitch number by 1 each decrease row until ~8–10 sts remain. Cut yarn leaving long tail and thread through remaining stitches and pull to close. Sew top seam neatly with mattress stitch. Block hood gently.
4. Face detail: For a clean result do the face in duplicate stitch or embroidery. Use a cream/beige small oval for snout centered ~1.5–2.0" up from the front of the hood. Eyes: two dark ovals spaced ~1" apart. Add small embroidered nostrils and a faint mouth line. Keep features stylized and small to avoid covering the hood opening.
5. Ears (make 2): With green yarn, CO 14 sts. Row 1: k all RS. Row 2: p across. Row 3: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk (2 sts dec). Row 4: purl. Repeat these two rows until 6 sts remain. BO. Make a smaller inner ear with cream/pale pink: CO 10 sts, work 3 rows garter, BO. Sew inner ear to outer ear piece, then seam the ear edges leaving base open. Lightly stuff base with fiberfill for dimension. Attach ears to the hood on either side (slightly angled) and stitch securely through hood seam allowance.
6. Attach hood to neckline: With RSs together and matching center back of hood to center back of neck, sew hood to neckline with mattress stitch. Reinforce the seam at front to prevent stretching.

Assembly & Finishing

• Sew shoulder seams and any remaining underarm seams. Weave in all ends.
• Sew the shorts waistband to the inside of the dress waist using small whipstitches or mattress stitch so the shorts sit flat and are not visible from the right side.
• Block garment gently to measurements to even stitches and soften seams.
• Add a small ribbon or snap on the inside back of shorts waistband if you used elastic and want adjustability.

Size adjustments & tips

• To lengthen or shorten: change torso and skirt lengths before dividing for armholes or before finishing the skirt.
• Face detail alternatives: intarsia can be done when knitting the hood but using duplicate stitch after knitting is easier for small motifs and prevents floats showing inside the hood. You can use felt appliqué for the snout if you prefer a non‑knit option—sew it securely and finish edges.
• Care: wash according to yarn label. If using cotton, expect some blocking shrinkage; pre‑wash if you want stable sizing.

Abbreviated quick cheat sheet

CO total chest sts → Hem rib 1.5" → Stockinette to waist → Divide for front/back → Shape armholes & neck → Seam shoulders → Pick up & knit sleeves → Make separate shorts → Pick up waist & work skirt → Knit hood & ears → Add face by duplicate stitch → Sew shorts inside waist → Attach hood → Finish.

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