Top-down raglan yoke, short sleeves, A-line skirt with a sewn-in shorts lining (skort), side pockets, and a hood with a Baby-Yoda (Grogu-style) face & ears appliqué. Finished for a child "Medium" (approx age 4–5). Gauge, materials and needle sizes given for ready-to-follow stitch counts and row numbers.
Example yarn weight label: DK / Light Worsted (~8 ply) — Imperial & Metric given above.
20 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in stockinette stitch, measured after blocking, using 4.0 mm (US 6) needles. Adjust needle size to match gauge.
Using smaller needles (US 5 / 3.75 mm), CO 54 sts. Join carefully to work in the round being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.
Work 1x1 rib (k1, p1) for 1" / 2.5 cm. Switch to larger needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm) and place 4 markers to divide into raglan sections as follows (these are the starting raglan segment stitch counts): front: 18 sts, sleeve1: 8 sts, back: 20 sts, sleeve2: 8 sts (total 54 sts).
Set-up: Place a removable marker between each segment so you have 4 raglan markers. Work increase rounds as follows:
Increase round (every other round): *k to 1 st before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb* around. Work one plain round between increase rounds (knit all sts) to settle your increases.
Repeat the pair of rounds (increase round then plain round) 7 times total. Each increase round adds 8 sts; after 7 increases you will have added 56 sts to the original 54 = 110 sts (final total for underarm level). After completing increases, work 4 rounds even. Measure yoke depth from the back of neck to underarm; expected approx 6.5–7.5" / 16.5–19 cm for this size; adjust if needed.
When you reach the required yoke depth, you will place the sleeve stitches on holders and continue the body:
Join front and back sts to work in the round (54 sts). Knit in stockinette (knit every rnd) until the piece measures from underarm to waist approx 6.5" / 16.5 cm, ending with a round that will allow you to pick up for the skirt smoothly. Change to smaller needle for waist rib if desired for a firmer waistband.
At the waist: Change to US 6 (4.0 mm) 24" circular. You will increase evenly to create flare for a fullness of approximately 34" / 86 cm hem circumference (this gives a gentle A-line skirt). Current waist stitches on body = 54 sts. Target hem stitches = 170 sts (approx). We will increase over several rounds:
- Round 1: Knit into front and back of every stitch (kfb) across to double stitch count: 54 → 108 sts.
- Rounds 2-3: Knit even (2 rounds).
- Round 4: Increase to reach approx 170 sts by working a single increase every other stitch: *k1, kfb* repeat across. You will end with approx 162 sts (if slightly under target that's fine) — adjust by adding extra increases evenly to reach 170 if you prefer exact fullness.
Then work in the round, increasing 8–12 sts evenly every 6th round for two more increases to encourage flare until you reach approx 160–170 sts. Work skirt to desired length from waist (approx 9.5" / 24 cm). Finish with 6 rounds of 1x1 rib (US 5 / 3.75 mm) or a folded hem: BO loosely in rib.
Make shorts separately and sew into inside of skirt at the waist for a clean, built-in skort. The shorts are worked flat and seamed or worked in the round on DPNs/circulars depending on preference.
Shorts (worked in the round on 4.0 mm needles): CO 88 sts and join to work in the round. Work 1.5" / 4 cm of 1x1 rib for waistband (optional: leave a small opening to insert elastic later). Switch to stockinette and work for 3.5" / 9 cm from waistband, then begin to shape leg openings.
Divide for legs: Work next round: k44, turn, attach new yarn and work k44 on second piece to create two leg tubes (or slip half the sts to a holder and work legs on DPNs). Work each leg in the round or flat to desired leg length (approx 3" / 7.5 cm) then BO. Block lightly.
Sew seam for the shorts (seat seam) and ensure leg openings are finished with tidy cast-off edges. Insert elastic in waistband if desired.
Sew the shorts into the skirt inside at the waist: turn skirt inside-out, pin shorts to the inside waistline aligning the waistband edge to the top of the skirt, then sew with a stretch stitch around the full circumference. Make sure the seam is flat and the shorts sit comfortably inside the skirt; the waistband may be slightly smaller so stretch as you sew.
Return sleeve sts to needles (approx 28 sts). Pick up an extra 4 sts at underarm seam if needed for ease (total ~32 sts). Join in the round and knit in stockinette until sleeve length from underarm is 5" / 13 cm, or desired short-sleeve length. For a gentle cap, decrease 2 sts evenly in the first round after joining. Finish with 6 rounds 1x1 rib on smaller needles and BO loosely.
Make two pocket bags (worked flat): CO 24 sts on 3.75 mm needles. Work in garter or stockinette for 6" / 15 cm. BO. Fold and sew pocket bags into the side seams of the skirt, placing them about 3.5" / 9 cm below waist. Sew pocket opening edge into the side seam so the pocket mouth is flush with the skirt side seam; ensure both pockets are placed symmetrically.
Hood (worked flat, seamed center back): Pick up and knit 80 sts around the neckline with 4.0 mm needles (adjust to fit neck opening). Work 1x1 rib for 1" / 2.5 cm. Switch to stockinette and work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): k across
Row 2 (WS): p across
Work even for 8" / 20 cm measured from neckline (this length will create a cozy hood). Next, shape the top by decreasing at both edges to create the rounded hood crown:
Decrease rows (RS): *k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1* repeat every right-side row until 12 sts remain. Break yarn and thread through remaining sts and pull closed. Seam crown. Fold hood and seam center back. Neaten the front edge with a 1x1 rib pick-up if desired.
Face oval: With cream yarn CO 14 sts. Work in garter stitch for 20 rows (approx 2.5" / 6.5 cm). BO. Shape edges by reducing 1 st at each end every other row for 3 rows to form a soft oval. Block lightly and sew centered onto the hood front.
Eyes: Use black yarn to embroider two small horizontal ovals or attach safety eyes before sewing the face to the hood. Place them approx 1.25" / 3 cm apart centered on face oval. Add tiny white French knot highlights.
Nose & mouth: Embroider a small rounded nose and a tiny curved mouth with brown or darker cream yarn.
Ears (make 2): Using green yarn CO 10 sts, work 1x1 rib for 2 rows, then switch to stockinette and increase at ends to shape triangle ear: Row 1: k across; Row 2: p across; Row 3 (RS): kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb (increases 2 sts). Repeat RS increase rows until you have approx 20 sts. Then work even 4 rows. Then decrease 2 sts at both ends every RS row until 6 sts remain. BO, fold slightly and seam inner rounded ear edge. With cream yarn, make a small inner ear triangle (CO 6 sts and shape to a small triangle by decreasing at edges) and sew it to the center front of each ear. Sew the ears to the hood sides at an angle to imitate Baby-Yoda's ear orientation. Use small stitches and reinforce well.
If you need to adjust for a slightly bigger or smaller chest, change needle size to get the correct gauge and re-calculate stitch counts: target chest (in inches) x (gauge sts per inch). For a firmer rib at waist and sleeve edges, go down one needle size for ribbing.
Machine wash gentle or hand wash depending on yarn label. Lay flat to dry. Avoid heat that could felt or shrink fibers.
Enjoy knitting! For pattern support or questions: email team@verde.uk. More at https://purljam.verde.uk and socials: #purljam.