Grogu "Baby Yoda" Inspired Crochet Hoodie Dress (Child Medium, 10-12)

One-piece crochet dress with short sleeves, built-in skort (attached shorts + outer skirt), roomy pockets and a hood with Grogu-inspired face and ears. This pattern is an original design inspired by the character; use yarn colors to evoke the look. Read all notes before beginning.

Finished measurements

• Chest (finished): 30 in / 76 cm
• Waist (finished): 26 in / 66 cm
• Dress length from waist to hem (skirt): 8 in / 20 cm
• Total length from shoulder to hem (including hood seam line): ~18 in / 46 cm (adjustable)
• Short length (inseam): 3.5 in / 9 cm
• Shorts thigh circumference (finished): ~14 in / 36 cm
• Hood opening circumference: ~20 in / 51 cm (fits child 10-12; adjust if needed)

Materials

• Main yarn (MC) "Grogu green" worsted weight (Category 4): 400 yds / 366 m (approx 2 x 100g balls; buy 3 to be safe)
• Contrast yarn (CC1) robe brown: 450 yds / 411 m (approx 3 x 100g balls)
• Contrast yarn (CC2) cream/ivory for collar: 100 yds / 91 m (1 x 100g ball)
• Small amount black and white for embroidered eyes (or use safety eyes but note safety & washing)
• Crochet hooks and needles (see sizes below)
• Darning/ tapestry needle, stitch markers (4), 1/2"–1" elastic or 1/4" ribbon for optional waistband, sewing needle and thread for assembly, small polyester fiberfill for ear tips if you want them slightly padded
• Optional: 2 small toggles or buttons for decorative collar

Yarn weight & conversions

• Yarn weight: Worsted / Aran / Medium (Category 4)
• Imperial: Examples given in yards above; typical 100g ball = approx 200 yds
• Metric: yards converted to meters in parentheses

Hooks & Needle sizes (US, UK (old), Metric)

• Main crochet hook (for body & skirt): US I-9 (UK 5, Metric 5.5 mm)
• Slightly smaller hook for tighter ribbing/details: US H-8 (UK 6, Metric 5.0 mm)
• Small hook for facial appliqué & ears: US G-6 (UK 4, Metric 4.0 mm)
• Darning needle for finishing: no conversion needed

Gauge

11 dc x 7 rows = 4 in / 10 cm using US double crochet (dc) with 5.5 mm hook. Gauge is important for fit; adjust hook to meet gauge.

Stitch & notation

• Pattern written in US terms. UK equivalents in parentheses where helpful.
• Abbreviations: ch = chain, sc = single crochet (UK = dc), hdc = half double crochet (UK = htr), dc = double crochet (UK = treble), st(s) = stitch(es), sl st = slip stitch, BLO = back loops only, FLO = front loops only, dec = decrease (see special stitches)

Special stitches

• 2-dc inc: 2 dc in same st
• dc dec (US dc2tog): yarn over, insert in next st and pull up loop, yarn over, insert in next st and pull up loop, yarn over and pull through all loops
• Ribbing (hdc BLO in rounds): hdc in back loops only to make stretchy waist rib

Notes

• This pattern is written for Child Medium (10-12). Adjust stitch counts proportionally for different sizes by adding/subtracting multiples of pattern repeat counts (most rounds are worked in multiples of 4 or 6).
• Work in continuous rounds unless instructed to join. Use stitch markers to mark round starts.
• Try on while working (or measure) before creating permanent seams; children vary in size.
• For safety and washability, embroider facial features rather than small detachable eyes for young children.

Pattern overview & construction order

1. Waistband (brown) - ribbing casing (option to insert elastic)
2. Bodice (green) - worked in rounds, increases to bust, short sleeve openings created by chain spaces
3. Sew on short sleeves (worked flat or in-round as small caps)
4. Attach skirt (brown) in rounds with gentle increases for A-line
5. Make shorts (green) separately and sew into skirt waistline (built-in skort)
6. Make pockets, attach to skirt sides
7. Crochet hood (green) with ears and face appliqué; attach to neckline
8. Finish: weave ends, insert elastic if desired, add embroidered face

Waistband (brown) - make first

Notes: This sits at natural waist. Chain length adjusted to match child's waist measurement or use the number below as pattern starting point.

1. With CC1 (brown) and 5.5 mm hook, ch72. Join with sl st to form loop, careful not to twist (72 sts around = approx 26 in / 66 cm at stated gauge; adjust if your gauge differs).
2. Round 1: ch1, hdc in each ch around, join with sl st to first hdc (72 hdc).
3. Rounds 2-6 (5 more rounds): hdc BLO in each stitch around, join each round (creates ribband). Fasten off leaving tail if you plan to fold down to make a casing for a 1/2" elastic; alternatively fold up and whipstitch to create casing. Insert elastic if desired and sew closed.

Bodice (green)

1. With MC (green) and 5.5 mm hook, join yarn to any stitch of the waistband (inside top edge) and place marker for beginning of round.
2. Round 1: ch2 (counts as dc), dc in each st around (72 dc). Join with sl st to top of ch2. Move marker each round.
3. Round 2: Increase evenly to create ease at bust. Work *dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st*; repeat across to add 12 increases total. You should now have 84 dc around (84 sts = ~30 in / 76 cm finished bust circumference).
4. Rounds 3-14 (adjust to reach 7 in / 18 cm measured from top of waistband to underarm): dc in each st around (work even). This yields approx 12 rounds (gauge: ~1.75 rows per inch). Measure as you go. The body here is a tube that will form torso to underarm.
5. Armhole openings: place 4 removable stitch markers to segment stitches: front panel 34 sts, sleeve opening 8 sts, back panel 34 sts, sleeve opening 8 sts (total 84). On the next round, work dc across first 34 sts (front panel), ch8 (this creates an armhole chain space), skip next 8 sts, dc across next 34 sts (back panel), ch8, skip final 8 sts. Continue working dc in rounds only across the 68 active body sts (front+back) so that the chain-8 spaces form the armholes. Continue working even in rounds for 2 more rounds to stabilize openings.

Short sleeves

Short sleeves are worked in the round and sewn into the chain-8 armhole spaces.

1. Option A: Work sleeves directly in place. Join MC at bottom of chain-8 opening, ch1, evenly work 16 sc into the ch-8 space and into adjacent skipped stitches around to make an even base (adjust to make comfortable fit — you want approx 12–16 sts around depending on fit). Join with sl st and work in rounds: sc in each st for 6 rounds (short cap sleeve = about 1.5–2 in). Fasten off and weave ends. Repeat for second sleeve.
2. Option B: Make sleeves separately: ch16 and join; work in rounds of sc for 6 rounds; seam into armhole.

Skirt (outer) - robe brown

1. With CC1 (brown) and 5.5 mm hook, join to bottom edge of waistband (outside), ch2, dc in each active skirt stitch around (68 sts around—the body stitches left after chain-armholes). Join.
2. Round 2: *dc in next 5, 2 dc in next* repeat across to increase 12 sts (now ~80 sts). Join.
3. Rounds 3–end: Work in dc for skirt rounds, increasing evenly only every 3rd round by 12 sts total to create a gentle A-line. Continue until skirt measures 8 in / 20 cm from waist or desired length. Example: increase rounds at rounds 5, 8, 11 etc. If you prefer a fuller skirt, increase more frequently or use 2-dc increases every other stitch on an increase round.
4. Finish with 2 rounds of sc in CC1 in FLO (front loops only) to create a neat hem edge; fasten off and weave ends.

Shorts (built-in skort interior) - make separately then sew to waistband inside

Make a simple fitted short to attach to inside of skirt at waist to form skort.

1. With MC (green) and 5.5 mm hook, ch72 and join (this should match internal waistband circumference). Round 1: hdc around for 4 rounds (2–4 rounds) to create small internal waistband. Insert 1/2" elastic or leave as-is for stretch.
2. Divide for legs: place marker at half point. Work front leg: remove yarn and work 36 sts in rounds to form front left leg tube: join and work in rounds of dc or sc (your preference) for 12 rounds (leg length ~3.5 in). Fasten off leaving tail. Rejoin at beginning of remaining 36 sts and repeat for second leg. Fasten off.
3. Sew crotch: flatten shorts so front & back legs line up and seam between legs with whipstitch, leaving a small gusset area for comfort (you may add a small diamond-shaped gusset if desired). The result is a pair of shorts whose waist is aligned with the inside of the waistband.
4. Sew the shorts waistband to the inside top edge of the skirt/waistband by mattress stitch or whipstitch so the shorts are permanently attached and the skirt drapes over them (this makes the skort). Fasten securely.

Pockets

Make 2 patch pockets in CC1 (brown).

1. Ch16, sc in 2nd ch and across (15 sc). Row 2-10: ch1, turn, sc across to make a rectangle approx 4.5 x 5 in / 11 x 13 cm (adjust rows to desired pocket depth).
2. Edge with 1 round of sc in FLO for a nice edge. Make 2 pockets. Place on skirt sides about 2 in below waist seam and sew securely with darning needle and matching yarn.

Hood with face + ears

Hood is worked flat and seamed. The face elements are applied after the hood is assembled.

1. With MC and 5.5 mm hook, ch56 (this roughly equals head circumference ~20 in; adjust to fit). Row 1: dc in 3rd ch from hook and across (54 dc). Row 2–18: ch2, turn, dc across (work until piece measures approx 9–10 in / 23–25 cm tall; hood height measured from forehead to crown). Decrease rows at each end every 2nd row for last 6 rows to round the crown (dc dec at each end), forming a dome. Fasten off leaving long tail.
2. Fold piece with right sides together and seam the crown with sl st or whipstitch to create hood. Turn right side out.
3. Ears (make 2): With MC and 4.0 mm hook: ch8. Row1: sc in 2nd ch from hook across (7 sc). Row2: ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog (5 sc). Row3: ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc1, sc2tog (3 sc). Row4: ch1, turn, sc3tog (1 sc). Fasten off leaving tail. Make inner ear: with CC2 cream, ch6 and follow a similar but smaller triangle (finish with 3 rows) and sew to center of ear. Slightly stuff tip if desired. Sew ears to hood slightly angled outward near upper sides.
4. Face appliqués: Eyes: make two black circles using small hook: ch6, join, 10 sc in round, sl st, then add small white embroidered highlight. Sew onto hood at approx 2.5 in apart centered on forehead. For nose and mouth: use short embroidered stitches in darker green/black to make small subtle features. Avoid plastic safety eyes for small children; embroidery is safer and washable.
5. Attach hood to neckline: center hood seam to the middle back of garment and sew hood along neckline edge with slipstitch or whipstitch. Reinforce seam. Fold down a wide cream collar (CC2) using 4–6 rows of sc in cream around the neckline for the robe collar effect and sew down at front edges for a soft collar.

Finishing

• Weave in all ends. Block gently to shape.
• Optional: Insert elastic into waistband casing for snug fit. Adjust waistband casing with matching stitches to hide elastic ends.
• Sew on decorative buttons or toggles for the collar if desired (sew on firmly and consider age appropriateness).
• Embroider small facial details with secure knots and weave ends well. Avoid using small glued-on items for toddlers; use strong stitching to attach small bits.

Sizing adjustments & troubleshooting

• If your gauge gives fewer stitches per inch, increase initial chain length proportionally to match stated finished measurements (target: finished chest ~30 in). Keep increases symmetric.
• To lengthen the dress or skirt, add rounds evenly; to shorten, remove rounds before finishing hem.
• If skirt is too full, skip some increases or increase less frequently.

Care

Machine wash on gentle, cold; reshape and dry flat. Some yarns may require hand wash; follow yarn label instructions.

Notes about copyrighted inspiration

This pattern is an original crochet pattern inspired by a popular film character. It is intended for personal use, gifting or charity; do not sell items using licensed character names or images without permission.

Support & resources

Website: https://purljam.verde.uk | Support: team@verde.uk | Social: #purljam

Happy crocheting! If you need a row-by-row printed worksheet or size customizations (other than pattern content), please ask for an adjustment and specify measurements.