Grogu "Baby Yoda" Inspired Crochet Hoodie Dress (Child Medium, 10-12)
One-piece crochet dress with short sleeves, built-in skort (attached shorts + outer skirt), roomy pockets and a hood with Grogu-inspired face and ears. This pattern is an original design inspired by the character; use yarn colors to evoke the look. Read all notes before beginning.
Finished measurements
- Chest (finished): 30 in / 76 cm
- Waist (finished): 26 in / 66 cm
- Dress length from waist to hem (skirt): 8 in / 20 cm
- Total length from shoulder to hem (including hood seam line): ~18 in / 46 cm (adjustable)
- Short length (inseam): 3.5 in / 9 cm
- Shorts thigh circumference (finished): ~14 in / 36 cm
- Hood opening circumference: ~20 in / 51 cm (fits child 10-12; adjust if needed)
Materials
- Main yarn (MC) "Grogu green" worsted weight (Category 4): 400 yds / 366 m (approx 2 x 100g balls; buy 3 to be safe)
- Contrast yarn (CC1) robe brown: 450 yds / 411 m (approx 3 x 100g balls)
- Contrast yarn (CC2) cream/ivory for collar: 100 yds / 91 m (1 x 100g ball)
- Small amount black and white for embroidered eyes (or use safety eyes but note safety & washing)
- Crochet hooks and needles (see sizes below)
- Darning/ tapestry needle, stitch markers (4), 1/2"–1" elastic or 1/4" ribbon for optional waistband, sewing needle and thread for assembly, small polyester fiberfill for ear tips if you want them slightly padded
- Optional: 2 small toggles or buttons for decorative collar
Yarn weight & conversions
- Yarn weight: Worsted / Aran / Medium (Category 4)
- Imperial: Examples given in yards above; typical 100g ball = approx 200 yds
- Metric: yards converted to meters in parentheses
Hooks & Needle sizes (US, UK (old), Metric)
- Main crochet hook (for body & skirt): US I-9 (UK 5, Metric 5.5 mm)
- Slightly smaller hook for tighter ribbing/details: US H-8 (UK 6, Metric 5.0 mm)
- Small hook for facial appliqué & ears: US G-6 (UK 4, Metric 4.0 mm)
- Darning needle for finishing: no conversion needed
Gauge
11 dc x 7 rows = 4 in / 10 cm using US double crochet (dc) with 5.5 mm hook. Gauge is important for fit; adjust hook to meet gauge.
Stitch & notation
- Pattern written in US terms. UK equivalents in parentheses where helpful.
- Abbreviations: ch = chain, sc = single crochet (UK = dc), hdc = half double crochet (UK = htr), dc = double crochet (UK = treble), st(s) = stitch(es), sl st = slip stitch, BLO = back loops only, FLO = front loops only, dec = decrease (see special stitches)
Special stitches
- 2-dc inc: 2 dc in same st
- dc dec (US dc2tog): yarn over, insert in next st and pull up loop, yarn over, insert in next st and pull up loop, yarn over and pull through all loops
- Ribbing (hdc BLO in rounds): hdc in back loops only to make stretchy waist rib
Notes
- This pattern is written for Child Medium (10-12). Adjust stitch counts proportionally for different sizes by adding/subtracting multiples of pattern repeat counts (most rounds are worked in multiples of 4 or 6).
- Work in continuous rounds unless instructed to join. Use stitch markers to mark round starts.
- Try on while working (or measure) before creating permanent seams; children vary in size.
- For safety and washability, embroider facial features rather than small detachable eyes for young children.
Pattern overview & construction order
- Waistband (brown) - ribbing casing (option to insert elastic)
- Bodice (green) - worked in rounds, increases to bust, short sleeve openings created by chain spaces
- Sew on short sleeves (worked flat or in-round as small caps)
- Attach skirt (brown) in rounds with gentle increases for A-line
- Make shorts (green) separately and sew into skirt waistline (built-in skort)
- Make pockets, attach to skirt sides
- Crochet hood (green) with ears and face appliqué; attach to neckline
- Finish: weave ends, insert elastic if desired, add embroidered face
Waistband (brown) - make first
Notes: This sits at natural waist. Chain length adjusted to match child's waist measurement or use the number below as pattern starting point.
- With CC1 (brown) and 5.5 mm hook, ch72. Join with sl st to form loop, careful not to twist (72 sts around = approx 26 in / 66 cm at stated gauge; adjust if your gauge differs).
- Round 1: ch1, hdc in each ch around, join with sl st to first hdc (72 hdc).
- Rounds 2-6 (5 more rounds): hdc BLO in each stitch around, join each round (creates ribband). Fasten off leaving tail if you plan to fold down to make a casing for a 1/2" elastic; alternatively fold up and whipstitch to create casing. Insert elastic if desired and sew closed.
Bodice (green)
- With MC (green) and 5.5 mm hook, join yarn to any stitch of the waistband (inside top edge) and place marker for beginning of round.
- Round 1: ch2 (counts as dc), dc in each st around (72 dc). Join with sl st to top of ch2. Move marker each round.
- Round 2: Increase evenly to create ease at bust. Work *dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st*; repeat across to add 12 increases total. You should now have 84 dc around (84 sts = ~30 in / 76 cm finished bust circumference).
- Rounds 3-14 (adjust to reach 7 in / 18 cm measured from top of waistband to underarm): dc in each st around (work even). This yields approx 12 rounds (gauge: ~1.75 rows per inch). Measure as you go. The body here is a tube that will form torso to underarm.
- Armhole openings: place 4 removable stitch markers to segment stitches: front panel 34 sts, sleeve opening 8 sts, back panel 34 sts, sleeve opening 8 sts (total 84). On the next round, work dc across first 34 sts (front panel), ch8 (this creates an armhole chain space), skip next 8 sts, dc across next 34 sts (back panel), ch8, skip final 8 sts. Continue working dc in rounds only across the 68 active body sts (front+back) so that the chain-8 spaces form the armholes. Continue working even in rounds for 2 more rounds to stabilize openings.
Short sleeves
Short sleeves are worked in the round and sewn into the chain-8 armhole spaces.
- Option A: Work sleeves directly in place. Join MC at bottom of chain-8 opening, ch1, evenly work 16 sc into the ch-8 space and into adjacent skipped stitches around to make an even base (adjust to make comfortable fit — you want approx 12–16 sts around depending on fit). Join with sl st and work in rounds: sc in each st for 6 rounds (short cap sleeve = about 1.5–2 in). Fasten off and weave ends. Repeat for second sleeve.
- Option B: Make sleeves separately: ch16 and join; work in rounds of sc for 6 rounds; seam into armhole.
Skirt (outer) - robe brown
- With CC1 (brown) and 5.5 mm hook, join to bottom edge of waistband (outside), ch2, dc in each active skirt stitch around (68 sts around—the body stitches left after chain-armholes). Join.
- Round 2: *dc in next 5, 2 dc in next* repeat across to increase 12 sts (now ~80 sts). Join.
- Rounds 3–end: Work in dc for skirt rounds, increasing evenly only every 3rd round by 12 sts total to create a gentle A-line. Continue until skirt measures 8 in / 20 cm from waist or desired length. Example: increase rounds at rounds 5, 8, 11 etc. If you prefer a fuller skirt, increase more frequently or use 2-dc increases every other stitch on an increase round.
- Finish with 2 rounds of sc in CC1 in FLO (front loops only) to create a neat hem edge; fasten off and weave ends.
Shorts (built-in skort interior) - make separately then sew to waistband inside
Make a simple fitted short to attach to inside of skirt at waist to form skort.
- With MC (green) and 5.5 mm hook, ch72 and join (this should match internal waistband circumference). Round 1: hdc around for 4 rounds (2–4 rounds) to create small internal waistband. Insert 1/2" elastic or leave as-is for stretch.
- Divide for legs: place marker at half point. Work front leg: remove yarn and work 36 sts in rounds to form front left leg tube: join and work in rounds of dc or sc (your preference) for 12 rounds (leg length ~3.5 in). Fasten off leaving tail. Rejoin at beginning of remaining 36 sts and repeat for second leg. Fasten off.
- Sew crotch: flatten shorts so front & back legs line up and seam between legs with whipstitch, leaving a small gusset area for comfort (you may add a small diamond-shaped gusset if desired). The result is a pair of shorts whose waist is aligned with the inside of the waistband.
- Sew the shorts waistband to the inside top edge of the skirt/waistband by mattress stitch or whipstitch so the shorts are permanently attached and the skirt drapes over them (this makes the skort). Fasten securely.
Pockets
Make 2 patch pockets in CC1 (brown).
- Ch16, sc in 2nd ch and across (15 sc). Row 2-10: ch1, turn, sc across to make a rectangle approx 4.5 x 5 in / 11 x 13 cm (adjust rows to desired pocket depth).
- Edge with 1 round of sc in FLO for a nice edge. Make 2 pockets. Place on skirt sides about 2 in below waist seam and sew securely with darning needle and matching yarn.
Hood with face + ears
Hood is worked flat and seamed. The face elements are applied after the hood is assembled.
- With MC and 5.5 mm hook, ch56 (this roughly equals head circumference ~20 in; adjust to fit). Row 1: dc in 3rd ch from hook and across (54 dc). Row 2–18: ch2, turn, dc across (work until piece measures approx 9–10 in / 23–25 cm tall; hood height measured from forehead to crown). Decrease rows at each end every 2nd row for last 6 rows to round the crown (dc dec at each end), forming a dome. Fasten off leaving long tail.
- Fold piece with right sides together and seam the crown with sl st or whipstitch to create hood. Turn right side out.
- Ears (make 2): With MC and 4.0 mm hook: ch8. Row1: sc in 2nd ch from hook across (7 sc). Row2: ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog (5 sc). Row3: ch1, turn, sc2tog, sc1, sc2tog (3 sc). Row4: ch1, turn, sc3tog (1 sc). Fasten off leaving tail. Make inner ear: with CC2 cream, ch6 and follow a similar but smaller triangle (finish with 3 rows) and sew to center of ear. Slightly stuff tip if desired. Sew ears to hood slightly angled outward near upper sides.
- Face appliqués: Eyes: make two black circles using small hook: ch6, join, 10 sc in round, sl st, then add small white embroidered highlight. Sew onto hood at approx 2.5 in apart centered on forehead. For nose and mouth: use short embroidered stitches in darker green/black to make small subtle features. Avoid plastic safety eyes for small children; embroidery is safer and washable.
- Attach hood to neckline: center hood seam to the middle back of garment and sew hood along neckline edge with slipstitch or whipstitch. Reinforce seam. Fold down a wide cream collar (CC2) using 4–6 rows of sc in cream around the neckline for the robe collar effect and sew down at front edges for a soft collar.
Finishing
- Weave in all ends. Block gently to shape.
- Optional: Insert elastic into waistband casing for snug fit. Adjust waistband casing with matching stitches to hide elastic ends.
- Sew on decorative buttons or toggles for the collar if desired (sew on firmly and consider age appropriateness).
- Embroider small facial details with secure knots and weave ends well. Avoid using small glued-on items for toddlers; use strong stitching to attach small bits.
Sizing adjustments & troubleshooting
- If your gauge gives fewer stitches per inch, increase initial chain length proportionally to match stated finished measurements (target: finished chest ~30 in). Keep increases symmetric.
- To lengthen the dress or skirt, add rounds evenly; to shorten, remove rounds before finishing hem.
- If skirt is too full, skip some increases or increase less frequently.
Care
Machine wash on gentle, cold; reshape and dry flat. Some yarns may require hand wash; follow yarn label instructions.
Notes about copyrighted inspiration
This pattern is an original crochet pattern inspired by a popular film character. It is intended for personal use, gifting or charity; do not sell items using licensed character names or images without permission.
Support & resources
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