purlJam

<pattern>

# 1960s Inspired Funnel Neck Brioche Pullover

*A vintage-modern pullover featuring a sophisticated funnel neck, elegant brioche textures, and timeless silhouette. Worked seamlessly from the top down with raglan construction, this cozy merino wool sweater pairs classic 1960s styling with contemporary knitting techniques.*

## Difficulty Level
**Intermediate** - Requires knowledge of working in the round, brioche knitting, raglan shaping, and managing multiple stitch patterns.

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## Finished Measurements

**Bust circumference (with 4" positive ease):** 55" (140 cm)
**Total length from shoulder:** 28" (71 cm)  
**Sleeve length from underarm:** 18" (46 cm)
**Funnel neck height:** 5" (13 cm)

*This pattern is written for a custom size based on the measurements provided. Finished garment measurements include ease for comfortable fit.*

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## Materials

### Yarn
- **Weight:** Fingering (1)
- **Fiber:** 100% Merino Wool (or merino blend for durability)
- **Yardage:** Approximately 1,800-2,000 yards (1,650-1,830 m)
- **Recommended:** Any high-quality fingering weight merino with good stitch definition for brioche work

### Needles
- **US 3 (3.25 mm)** - 16" (40 cm) circular needle for funnel neck
- **US 4 (3.5 mm)** - 16" (40 cm) and 32" (80 cm) circular needles for body
- **US 4 (3.5 mm)** - DPNs or longer circular for magic loop (sleeves)
- *Or size needed to obtain gauge*

### Notions
- 8 stitch markers (4 in one color for raglan lines, 4 in another for pattern placement)
- Waste yarn or stitch holders for sleeves
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape
- Blocking wires or pins (optional but recommended)

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## Gauge

**In Simple Brioche (relaxed after blocking):**  
24 stitches and 32 rounds = 4" (10 cm) square  
**6 stitches/inch and 8 rounds/inch**

**In Textured Brioche (relaxed after blocking):**  
24 stitches and 30 rounds = 4" (10 cm) square

⚠️ **GAUGE IS CRITICAL** - Brioche fabric is stretchy and dimensional. Take time to knit a proper 6" × 6" swatch, wash and block it as you will the finished garment, then measure after it has fully dried. If your gauge is off by even 0.5 sts/inch, your sweater could be 8"+ different in circumference.

### How to Swatch for This Pattern
1. Cast on 40 stitches using US 4 needles
2. Work setup row, then work Simple Brioche pattern for 6"
3. Bind off loosely
4. Soak in lukewarm water for 20 minutes
5. Block flat, allowing brioche to relax naturally (don't overstretch)
6. Let dry completely (24+ hours)
7. Measure in the center of swatch, away from edges

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## Pattern Notes

### Construction Overview
This pullover is worked seamlessly from the top down:
1. Begin with funnel neck worked in 1x1 ribbing
2. Continue into yoke with Simple Brioche and raglan increases
3. Separate sleeves and body at armhole
4. Work body in Textured Brioche pattern
5. Work sleeves in the round with Simple Brioche, decreasing to wrist
6. Finish all edges with 1x1 ribbing

### Brioche Knitting Notes
- **Brioche is stretchy:** Your gauge swatch must be blocked and relaxed
- **Works up slower:** Brioche creates a double-sided fabric and uses more yarn
- **Maintain loose tension:** Brioche requires looser knitting than stockinette
- **Yarn over + slip stitch:** Creates the signature plush texture
- **Two-row pattern:** Each pattern row requires two rounds to complete

### Abbreviations
- **k:** knit
- **p:** purl
- **yo:** yarn over
- **sl1yo:** slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front, bring yarn over needle and to back (creates yarn over and slipped stitch together)
- **brk:** brioche knit (knit the slipped stitch together with its yarn over from previous row)
- **brp:** brioche purl (purl the slipped stitch together with its yarn over from previous row)
- **k2tog:** knit 2 stitches together
- **ssk:** slip, slip, knit (slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time, return to left needle, knit together through back loop)
- **m1L:** make 1 left (lift bar between sts from front, knit through back loop)
- **m1R:** make 1 right (lift bar between sts from back, knit through front loop)
- **pm:** place marker
- **sm:** slip marker
- **rm:** remove marker
- **sts:** stitches
- **rnd(s):** round(s)

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## Stitch Patterns

### 1x1 Ribbing (in the round)
**All rounds:** *K1, p1; repeat from * to end

### Simple Brioche (in the round)
*Used for yoke and sleeves*

**Setup Round:** *K1, sl1yo; repeat from * to end

**Round 1:** *Brk, sl1yo; repeat from * to end  
**Round 2:** *Sl1yo, brp; repeat from * to end

Repeat Rounds 1-2 for pattern.

*Pattern is worked over an even number of stitches.*

### Textured Brioche (in the round)
*Used for body front and back*

**Setup Round:** *K1, sl1yo; repeat from * to end

**Round 1:** *Brk, sl1yo; repeat from * to end  
**Round 2:** *Sl1yo, brp; repeat from * to end  
**Round 3:** *Sl1yo, brp; repeat from * to end  
**Round 4:** *Brk, sl1yo; repeat from * to end

Repeat Rounds 1-4 for pattern.

*Pattern is worked over an even number of stitches. The alternating repeat creates a subtle textured variation from Simple Brioche.*

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### FUNNEL NECK

Using US 3 (3.25 mm) 16" circular needle, cast on **120 sts** using long-tail cast on (or your preferred stretchy cast on).

*Math check: 20" neck circumference × 6 sts/inch = 120 sts ✓*

**Join for working in the round**, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.

Work in 1x1 Ribbing (k1, p1) for **5 inches** (13 cm).

*The funnel neck should be snug but comfortable. It will stand up rather than fold over.*

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### YOKE - Simple Brioche with Raglan Shaping

**Change to US 4 (3.5 mm) 16" circular needle.**

#### Setup for Raglan

**Setup Round:** This round establishes raglan markers and begins brioche pattern.

*K1, sl1yo* 15 times (30 sts for right front), pm (raglan marker), *k1, sl1yo* 15 times (30 sts for right sleeve), pm (raglan marker), *k1, sl1yo* 30 times (60 sts for back), pm (raglan marker), *k1, sl1yo* 15 times (30 sts for left sleeve), pm (raglan marker), *k1, sl1yo* 15 times (30 sts for left front).

*Math check: 30 + 30 + 60 + 30 + 30 = 180 sts (includes the slipped stitches with yarn overs) ✓*

You now have 4 raglan markers dividing the work into front, sleeves, and back.

#### Raglan Increase Rounds

You will work Simple Brioche pattern while increasing 8 sts every other round at raglan lines.

**Increase Round (odd rounds):**
*Work in Simple Brioche Round 1 to 1 st before marker, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L; repeat from * 3 more times, work in Simple Brioche Round 1 to end of round.

**Even Rounds:**
Work Simple Brioche Round 2 (all brp and sl1yo stitches), working increased stitches as k1 when encountered.

**Continue alternating Increase Rounds and Even Rounds**, working increased stitches into brioche pattern once enough stitches are available (work them as k1 until paired).

**Work increase pattern until yoke measures 8.5 inches** (22 cm) from base of funnel neck, or until armhole depth reaches desired measurement.

*This should be approximately 68 increase rounds (34 full pattern repeats), adding 272 stitches.*

*Math check:*
- *Starting: 120 sts*
- *After increases: 120 + 272 = 392 sts*
- *Distribution: each section gains 68 sts (34 increase rounds × 2 sts per section)*
- *Right Front: 30 + 68 = 98 sts*
- *Right Sleeve: 30 + 68 = 98 sts*
- *Back: 60 + 68 = 128 sts*
- *Left Sleeve: 30 + 68 = 98 sts*
- *Left Front: 30 + 68 = 98 sts*
- *Total check: 98 + 98 + 128 + 98 + 98 = 520 sts (in brioche, count stitch + yo as one unit) ✓*

**Try on the yoke** before separating body and sleeves. The yoke should comfortably cover your shoulders and reach your underarm. Adjust if needed.

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### SEPARATE BODY AND SLEEVES

**Next Round:**
- Work 98 sts (right front) in pattern, rm
- Place next 98 sts (right sleeve) on waste yarn, rm
- Using backward loop cast on, cast on **8 underarm sts**, pm for side
- Work 128 sts (back) in pattern, rm
- Place next 98 sts (left sleeve) on waste yarn, rm
- Cast on **8 underarm sts**, pm for side
- Work 98 sts (left front) in pattern to end

You now have **340 body sts** (98 + 8 + 128 + 8 + 98 = 340).

*Math check: 340 sts ÷ 6 sts/inch = 56.7" circumference (appropriate for 55" finished bust with ease in stretchy brioche) ✓*

**Change to 32" circular needle** when stitches become crowded.

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### BODY - Textured Brioche

The body is worked in Textured Brioche pattern, which creates a dimensional fabric distinct from the yoke.

**Setup Round:** Work across all sts: *k1, sl1yo; repeat from * to end

**Begin Textured Brioche Pattern:**

**Round 1:** *Brk, sl1yo; repeat from * to end  
**Round 2:** *Sl1yo, brp; repeat from * to end  
**Round 3:** *Sl1yo, brp; repeat from * to end  
**Round 4:** *Brk, sl1yo; repeat from * to end

**Repeat Rounds 1-4 until body measures 18 inches** (46 cm) from underarm, or until piece measures approximately 26 inches (66 cm) from shoulder (adjust for your preferred length to hips).

*Note: Body is worked straight without waist shaping