purlJam

<pattern>

# 1962 Men's Funnel Collar Pullover

A classic men's pullover inspired by 1960s knitwear design, featuring a sophisticated funnel collar, clean raglan lines, and subtle body shaping. Worked seamlessly from the top down in luxurious fingering weight merino wool for a refined drape and elegant finish.

## Finished Measurements

**Chest circumference:** 55" (with 4" positive ease over 51" body measurement)
**Body length from underarm:** 17"
**Sleeve length from underarm:** 19.5"
**Funnel collar height:** 4"

*Designed to fit body measurements: Neck 18", Shoulders 47", Bust 51", Waist 53", Hips 46"*

## Materials

**Yarn:** Fingering weight merino wool
- Approximately 2,200 yards
- Sample shown in classic charcoal gray

**Needles:**
- US 2 (2.75mm) 16" circular needle for collar ribbing
- US 3 (3.25mm) 16" circular needle for yoke
- US 3 (3.25mm) 32" circular needle for body
- US 3 (3.25mm) DPNs or long circular for magic loop for sleeves
- Or sizes needed to obtain gauge

**Notions:**
- 8 stitch markers (4 in one color for raglan lines, 4 in another for sections)
- Waste yarn or stitch holders
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

## Gauge

**7 stitches and 10 rows = 1 inch in stockinette stitch on US 3 (3.25mm) needles, blocked**

Gauge is critical for proper fit. Take time to swatch and block your swatch before beginning.

## Pattern Notes

- This sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down with raglan shaping
- The funnel collar is worked in 2x2 ribbing and stands up 4" - it does not fold over like a traditional turtleneck
- Short rows are worked at the front neck for improved collar fit
- Subtle waist and hip shaping creates a tailored 1960s silhouette
- All stitch counts are verified at key checkpoints

## Abbreviations

- CO: cast on
- BO: bind off
- k: knit
- p: purl
- st(s): stitch(es)
- m: marker
- pm: place marker
- sm: slip marker
- rm: remove marker
- inc: increase
- dec: decrease
- k2tog: knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- ssk: slip, slip, knit slipped stitches together (left-leaning decrease)
- M1L: make 1 left (lift bar between sts from front, knit through back loop)
- M1R: make 1 right (lift bar between sts from back, knit through front loop)
- w&t: wrap and turn (short row technique)
- RS: right side
- WS: wrong side

## Instructions

### FUNNEL COLLAR

Using US 2 (2.75mm) 16" circular needle and long-tail cast on, **CO 128 sts.**

*[Math check: 128 sts ÷ 4 = 32, divisible by 2x2 rib pattern]*

Place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.

**Setup Round:** *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Continue in 2x2 rib (k2, p2) until collar measures **4 inches** from cast on edge.

*[Approximately 40 rounds at fingering weight gauge]*

### TRANSITION TO YOKE

**Next Round:** Change to US 3 (3.25mm) 16" circular needle. Knit all sts, increasing 8 sts evenly around. **136 sts**

*[Math check: 128 + 8 = 136 sts]*

To increase evenly: K16, M1L, *k16, M1L; repeat from * 6 more times. **136 sts**

### SET UP RAGLAN MARKERS

**Setup Round:** Distribute stitches as follows:
- K27 (left front)
- pm (raglan marker)
- k41 (left sleeve)
- pm (raglan marker)
- k54 (back)
- pm (raglan marker)
- k41 (right sleeve)
- pm (raglan marker)
- k27 (right front)
- Place BOR marker in contrasting color

*[Math check: 27 + 41 + 54 + 41 + 27 = 190... ERROR - need to recalculate]*

Let me recalculate the raglan setup:
- Front total: 40% of sts = 54 sts (27 per side)
- Back: 40% of sts = 54 sts
- Each sleeve: 10% of sts = 14 sts each
Total: 27 + 14 + 54 + 14 + 27 = 136 sts ✓

**Corrected Setup Round:** 
- K27 (left front)
- pm (raglan marker)
- k14 (left sleeve)
- pm (raglan marker)
- k54 (back)
- pm (raglan marker)
- k14 (right sleeve)
- pm (raglan marker)
- k27 (right front)
- BOR marker

*[Math check: 27 + 14 + 54 + 14 + 27 = 136 sts ✓]*

### SHORT ROWS FOR FRONT NECK DEPTH

To improve the fit of the collar and prevent it from riding up in front, work short rows across the back.

**Short Row 1 (RS):** K27 (left front), sm, k14 (left sleeve), sm, k54 (back), sm, k14 (right sleeve), sm, k5, w&t.

**Short Row 2 (WS):** P14, sm, p54 (back), sm, p14, sm, p5, w&t.

**Short Row 3 (RS):** Knit to wrapped st, knit wrap together with st, k3, w&t.

**Short Row 4 (WS):** Purl to wrapped st, purl wrap together with st, p3, w&t.

**Short Row 5 (RS):** Knit to wrapped st, knit wrap together with st, k3, w&t.

**Short Row 6 (WS):** Purl to wrapped st, purl wrap together with st, p3, w&t.

**Resume Round:** Knit to end of round, picking up wraps and knitting together with stitches.

### RAGLAN YOKE INCREASES

**Increase Round:** *Knit to 1 st before raglan m, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; repeat from * 3 more times, knit to end. **8 sts increased**

**Plain Round:** Knit all sts.

Repeat these 2 rounds (Increase Round, then Plain Round) **49 more times**.

*[Total raglan increases: 50 × 8 = 400 sts increased]
[Starting sts: 136]
[After increases: 136 + 400 = 536 sts]*

After 50 increase rounds, you should have:
- Each front: 27 + 50 = **77 sts**
- Back: 54 + 100 = **154 sts**
- Each sleeve: 14 + 100 = **114 sts**

*[Math check: 77 + 114 + 154 + 114 + 77 = 536 sts ✓]*

Yoke should measure approximately **10 inches** from collar to underarm.

*[50 increase rounds = 100 rows ÷ 10 rows/inch = 10 inches ✓]*

### SEPARATE BODY AND SLEEVES

**Next Round:** K77 (left front), rm, place next 114 sts on waste yarn for left sleeve, rm, use backward loop method to CO 14 sts for underarm, pm for side, K154 (back), rm, place next 114 sts on waste yarn for right sleeve, rm, CO 14 sts for underarm, pm for side, k77 (right front) to BOR marker.

*[Body sts: 77 + 14 + 154 + 14 + 77 = 336 sts]
[Check chest circumference: 336 ÷ 7 sts/inch = 48 inches]*

This is smaller than target 55". Need to add stitches.

**Corrected - Add increase round after separation:**

**Increase Round after separation:** Knit, increasing 49 sts evenly around. **385 sts**

*[385 sts ÷ 7 sts/inch = 55 inches ✓]*

To increase evenly: *K7, M1L; repeat from * 48 more times, k1.

### BODY

Work even in stockinette stitch (knit every round) for **2 inches**.

*[20 rounds at gauge]*

#### Waist Shaping

The body decreases slightly to the waist, then increases to the hip for 1960s tailored shaping.

**Decrease Round:** K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before side m, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before BOR m, k2tog, k1. **4 sts decreased**

Work Decrease Round every **8 rounds** twice more. **377 sts after all decreases**

*[385 - 12 = 373... recalculate: 385 - 4 - 4 - 4 = 373 sts]*

**Corrected: 373 sts** (53.8" at waist - appropriate for 53" body waist)

Work even for **2 inches**.

#### Hip Shaping

**Increase Round:** K1, M1L, knit to 1 st before side m, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L, knit to 1 st before BOR m, M1R, k1. **4 sts increased**

Work Increase Round every **8 rounds** once more. **381 sts**

*[373 + 4 + 4 = 381 sts]
[381 ÷ 7 = 54.4 inches at hip]*

Work even in stockinette until body measures **14 inches from underarm**, or 3 inches less than desired length.

#### Hem Ribbing

**Ribbing Setup Round:** Change to US 2 (2.75mm) 32" circular needle. Decrease 5 sts evenly around. **376 sts**

*[376 ÷ 4 = 94, works for 2x2 rib]*

**Ribbing Round:** *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Continue in 2x2 rib for **3 inches**.

Bind off loosely in pattern using stretchy bind off or bind off with larger needle.

### SLEEVES (make 2)

Return 114 held sleeve sts to US 3 (3.25mm) DPNs or circular for magic loop.

**Join yarn and pickup round:** Beginning at center of underarm, pick up and knit 7 sts from underarm CO, knit 114 sleeve sts, pick up and knit 7 sts from underarm CO, pm for BOR. **128 sts**

*[114 + 7 + 7 = 128 sts]*

Work even in stockinette for **1 inch** (10 rounds).

#### Sleeve Decreases

**Decrease Round:** K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **2 sts decreased**

Repeat