purlJam

<pattern>

# CLASSIC SHORT SLEEVE PULLOVER WITH CENTER PANEL
## Beginner-Friendly Women's Set-In Sleeve Top

A timeless short sleeve pullover featuring a decorative center slip-stitch panel down the front. This pattern introduces set-in sleeve construction with gradual, easy-to-follow shaping perfect for building machine knitting skills.

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Worsted weight (#4) yarn
- Main Color (MC): approximately 650 yards (595m)
- Contrast Color (CC) for center panel (optional): 50 yards (45m)

**Suggested Yarn:** Any worsted weight acrylic, wool, or cotton blend

**Yardage by Size:**
- Small: 550 yards
- Medium: 650 yards  
- Large: 750 yards

**Machine:** Standard gauge (4.5mm) knitting machine with ribber attachment

**Notions:**
- Waste yarn for cast-on
- Ravel cord
- Cast-on comb and weights
- Transfer tools
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Stitch holders or waste yarn

---

## TENSION/GAUGE

**Main Tension:** T7 on main bed, T6 on ribber
**Gauge:** 4.5 sts and 6 rows = 1" (2.5cm) in stockinette on main bed at T7

**CRITICAL: Knit a tension swatch before starting**
- Cast on 40 sts
- Knit 40 rows at T7
- Remove from machine and allow to relax 30 minutes
- Measure center 20 sts and 30 rows
- Adjust tension dial if needed to achieve gauge

---

## SIZES

Pattern is written for Small (Medium, Large)

**Finished Measurements:**
- **Bust circumference:** 36 (38, 40)" [91 (97, 102)cm]
- **Length from shoulder:** 21 (22, 23)" [53 (56, 58)cm]
- **Sleeve length:** 7.5 (8, 8.5)" [19 (20, 22)cm]
- **Armhole depth:** 7 (7.5, 8)" [18 (19, 20)cm]

**Ease:** Designed with 2" positive ease (select size 2" larger than actual bust measurement)

---

## ABBREVIATIONS & MACHINE TERMS

**RC** - Row Counter (always reset to 000 at start of new piece)
**COL** - Carriage on Left
**COR** - Carriage on Right
**T** - Tension dial setting (e.g., T7)
**MT** - Main Tension
**WY** - Waste Yarn
**MC** - Main Color
**CC** - Contrast Color
**WP** - Working Position (needle brought forward, ready to knit)
**HP** - Hold Position (needle in hold, not knitting)
**st(s)** - stitch(es)
**dec** - decrease
**inc** - increase

**Needle Positions (from left to right):**
Needles are numbered from center 0. Left needles are negative numbers, right needles are positive numbers.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Machine Setup:** All pieces begin with waste yarn cast-on using ravel cord method for easy unraveling and finishing.

2. **Center Panel:** The front features a 15-stitch slip stitch panel creating a vertical textured stripe. This 2-row repeat pattern is easy for beginners.

3. **Set-In Sleeves:** Armhole and sleeve cap shaping uses hold buttons/levers. Hold needles gradually at sides for smooth curves.

4. **Seaming:** All pieces are knit flat and seamed together. Leave long tails for seaming.

5. **Ribbing:** 1×1 rib is worked on ribber for hem, cuffs, and neckband.

6. **Direction:** All pieces knit from bottom to top (hem to shoulder for body, cuff to cap for sleeves).

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### BACK

**Machine Setup:**
- Set main bed to T7
- Attach ribber, set to T6
- Thread MC in both carriages
- Set carriage for circular knitting (both beds knitting)

**Ribbed Hem:**

1. Using WY and ravel cord, cast on 77 (86, 95) sts across both beds in 1×1 rib arrangement
   - For 1×1 rib: Every other needle in WP on both beds, needles alternate
   - Hang cast-on comb and apply weights

2. RC 000. Knit 6 rows WY. Break WY.

3. Join MC. RC 000 (reset counter).

4. Knit 25 rows in 1×1 rib (RC 025).
   - COL: Set ribber carriage to knit
   - Both beds knitting creates 1×1 rib
   - Check tension after 10 rows, adjust weights

**Body:**

5. RC 025, COR. Transfer all ribber stitches to main bed using transfer tools.
   - Work from left to right
   - Each ribber stitch transfers to adjacent main bed needle
   - All stitches now on main bed: 77 (86, 95) sts
   - Remove ribber carriage

6. Set carriage for stockinette, MT (T7).

7. RC 000 (reset). Knit straight in stockinette until RC 084 (090, 096).
   **[Math check: 84 rows ÷ 6 rows/inch = 14" body length before armhole]**

**Armhole Shaping:**

8. RC 084 (090, 096), COL. Begin armhole shaping using hold buttons.
   - Set carriage to hold (engage hold lever/buttons)
   
9. **Bind off 4 (5, 6) sts at each armhole edge:**
   - RC 084, COL: Push 4 (5, 6) needles at right edge to HP
   - Knit to left (COR)
   - RC 085, COR: Push 4 (5, 6) needles at left edge to HP
   - Knit to right (COL)
   - Remaining sts in WP: 69 (76, 83) sts

10. **Decrease 1 st each end every row 5 (6, 7) times:**
    - RC 086, COL: Push 1 needle at right to HP, knit to left
    - RC 087, COR: Push 1 needle at left to HP, knit to right
    - Repeat decreases for total 5 (6, 7) times each side
    - Remaining sts in WP: 59 (64, 69) sts
    - RC 096 (102, 110)

11. Knit straight (no shaping) until RC 126 (135, 144).
    **[Math check: 126-096 = 30 more rows; total armhole = 126-084 = 42 rows ÷ 6 = 7" depth]**

**Shoulder and Neck Shaping:**

12. RC 126 (135, 144), COL. Shape shoulders and back neck simultaneously.
    
13. **Right shoulder:** Work on right 19 (21, 23) needles only.
    - Push center 21 (22, 23) needles to HP (back neck)
    - Push left 19 (21, 23) needles to HP (left shoulder - work later)
    
14. RC 126, COL. Right shoulder bind-off in 3 steps:
    - Knit to right (COR)
    - RC 127, COR: Push 6 (7, 8) needles to HP at shoulder edge, knit to left
    - RC 128, COL: Push 7 (7, 7) needles to HP, knit to right
    - RC 129, COR: Push remaining 6 (7, 8) needles to HP
    - All right shoulder needles now in HP

15. **Left shoulder:** Return left 19 (21, 23) needles to WP.
    - RC 129, COR. Knit to left (COL)
    
16. RC 130, COL. Left shoulder bind-off in 3 steps:
    - Push 6 (7, 8) needles to HP at shoulder edge, knit to right
    - RC 131, COR: Push 7 (7, 7) needles to HP, knit to left
    - RC 132, COL: Push remaining 6 (7, 8) needles to HP
    
17. Remove work from machine using latch tool bind-off method on all held needles.
    - Back neck: 21 (22, 23) sts
    - Leave 18" tails for seaming

**Back piece complete.**

---

### FRONT

**Machine Setup:**
- Same as Back
- Set main bed to T7, ribber to T6

**Ribbed Hem:**

Follow steps 1-4 from Back (identical ribbing).

**Body with Center Panel:**

5. RC 025, COR. Transfer all ribber stitches to main bed.
   - Total sts on main bed: 77 (86, 95) sts

6. **Set up center panel:**
   - Find center needle (needle 0 or between needles 0 and 1)
   - Mark center 15 needles for slip stitch pattern
   - For Medium size (86 sts): needles from -7 to +7 (15 needles)
   - **[Math check: (86-15) = 71 sts ÷ 2 = 35.5 sts each side; use 35 and 36]**

7. RC 000 (reset). Set carriage for slip stitch on center 15 needles:
   
   **For Punchcard Machine:**
   - Create card: Blank card with center 15 positions punched every other row in checkerboard
   - Set carriage to slip setting
   
   **For Electronic Machine:**
   - Program 15-stitch pattern: alternating needles slip every other row
   - Pattern: Row 1: K across; Row 2: *K1, Slip 1* across center 15
   
   **Manual Method (recommended for beginners):**
   - Knit without pattern settings
   - Every 2nd row, manually push center 15 needles back to NWP (non-working position) before pass
   - They will slip, creating texture

8. RC 000. **Knit body:**
   - Rows 1-2: Knit across all sts at T7
   - Row 3, COL: Push center 15 needles to NWP (upper working position, will slip)
   - Knit to right - center sts slip
   - Row 4, COR: Return center needles to WP, knit to left
   - Repeat rows 3-4 for slip stitch texture
   
   OR (simpler for beginners):
   - Join CC for center 15 sts
   - Knit these in contrasting stripe instead of slip stitch
   - Change color every 10 rows for stripes

9. Knit straight until RC 084 (090, 096).

**Armhole Shaping:**

10. Follow steps 8-11 from Back (identical armhole shaping).
    - RC 126 (135, 144) at end of armhole
    - 59 (64, 69) sts remaining

**Neck and Shoulder Shaping:**

11. RC 126 (135, 144), COL. Front neck is deeper than back.
    - Begin neck shaping 10 rows before shoulder

12. RC 116 (125, 134), COL. **Begin front neck:**
    - Push center 15 (16, 17) needles to HP (front neck)
    - Work right shoulder first: 22 (24, 26) needles on right
    - Push left 22 (24, 26) needles to HP

13. **Right front shoulder and neck:**
    - RC 116, knit to right (COR)
    - RC 117, COR: Push 1 needle at neck edge to HP, knit to left (neck dec)
    - RC 118, COL: Knit to right (COR)
    - RC 119, COR: Push 1 needle at neck edge to HP, knit to left
    - Continue neck decreases (1 st at neck edge) every other row 3 (3, 3) more times
    - Right shoulder sts remaining: 19 (21, 23) sts
    - RC reaches 126 (135, 144)

14. **Shape right shoulder** (same as back):
    - RC 126 (135, 144), COR: Push 6 (7, 8) needles to HP, knit to left
    - RC 127 (136, 145), COL: Push 7 (7, 7) needles to HP, knit to right
    - RC 128 (137, 146), COR: Push remaining 6 (7, 8) needles to HP

15. **Left front shoulder and neck:**
    - Return left 22 (24, 26) needles to WP
    - RC 116 (125, 134), COR. Knit to left (COL)
    - RC 117, COL: Push 1 needle at neck edge to HP, knit to right (neck dec)
    - RC 118, COR: Knit to left
    - RC 119, COL: Push 1 needle at neck edge to HP, knit to right
    - Continue neck decreases every other row 3 (3, 3) more times
    - Left shoulder sts: 19 (21, 23) sts
    - RC reaches 126 (135, 144)

16. **Shape left shoulder:**
    - RC 126 (135, 144), COL: Push 6