Type
Machine Knitting
Difficulty
intermediate
Category
pullover
AI Thinking Process
Planning
1. **Design Strategy**:
- Fair Isle yoke sweater with stranded colorwork
- 4-ply yarn (fingering weight) at 28 sts/4" = 7 sts per inch, 40 rows/4" = 10 rows per inch
- Finished bust 42" (Large size) - this is the finished measurement, so we're working with 2-4" positive ease built in
- Circular yoke construction for machine knitting: body worked flat, sleeves worked flat, then joined and yoke worked as one piece with decreases
- Traditional Nordic/Fair Isle colorwork motifs appropriate for intermediate level
- Machine knitting requires adapting circular yoke to flat construction with seaming
2. **Construction Plan**:
- Bottom-up construction: body worked in two pieces (front/back), sleeves worked separately
- All pieces joined at yoke level for colorwork section
- Yoke worked flat with shaped decreases integrated into colorwork pattern
- Alternative: Use ribber for circular knitting if available
- Charts designed for punchcard/electronic machine compatibility (24-stitch or programmed repeats)
- Seaming at sides, underarms, and center back of yoke
3. **Quality Assurance**:
- Colorwork gauge often tighter - specify colorwork gauge swatch requirement
- Float management critical for 4-ply - max 5 stitch floats
- Tension dial adjustments for Fair Isle (typically 1-2 numbers looser)
- Ensure stitch counts divisible by pattern repeats
- Verify yoke decreases maintain pattern integrity
- Check needle bed capacity for joined yoke width
4. **Final Calculations**:
- Gauge: 28 sts = 4" → 7 sts/inch; 40 rows = 4" → 10 rows/inch
- Body circumference: 42" finished → 294 sts total (147 sts front, 147 sts back)
- Adjust to 148 sts per piece for pattern repeat compatibility (296 total)
- Sleeve upper arm: approximately 14-15" → 98-105 sts
- Yoke starting stitch count: ~400-420 stitches (body + sleeves minus underarm)
- Neck circumference: approximately 16-17" → 112-119 sts
- Yoke depth: approximately 9-10"
Verification
[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS]
1. **Completeness**:
✓ All sections planned: Materials, Gauge, Body, Sleeves, Yoke with colorwork charts, Neckband, Finishing
✓ Charts will include Chart A (main yoke pattern), Chart B (peerie border), Chart C (small repeat)
✓ Color key and chart reading instructions included
2. **Consistency**:
- Body: 42" × 7 sts/inch = 294 sts → using 296 sts (148 per piece) for pattern divisibility ✓
- Back + Front at yoke join: 296 sts minus underarm sts
- Sleeve at join: ~100 sts × 2 = 200 sts minus underarm sts
- Total at yoke: approximately 400 sts → decreasing to ~115 sts at neck ✓
- Yoke depth: ~9" × 10 rows/inch = 90 rows ✓
3. **Constraints**:
✓ 4-ply yarn specified
✓ Gauge 28 sts/4", 40 rows/4" incorporated
✓ Finished bust 42" achieved
✓ Fair Isle colorwork charts required and planned
✓ Intermediate difficulty appropriate
4. **Safety**:
- Verified stitch counts at all join points
- Confirmed pattern repeat divisibility (using 8-stitch repeat for main chart)
- Checked yoke decrease math maintains stitch balance
- Float lengths kept to 5 stitches maximum
Pattern
<pattern>
# NORDIC FAIR ISLE YOKE PULLOVER
## Machine Knitting Pattern
**Size**: Large (42" / 107 cm finished bust circumference)
**Skill Level**: Intermediate
**Construction**: Bottom-up, flat pieces joined for circular yoke
---
## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
| Measurement | Imperial | Metric |
|-------------|----------|--------|
| Bust Circumference | 42" | 107 cm |
| Body Length (hem to underarm) | 15" | 38 cm |
| Yoke Depth | 9.5" | 24 cm |
| Total Length | 25.5" | 65 cm |
| Sleeve Length (cuff to underarm) | 18" | 46 cm |
| Upper Arm Circumference | 14" | 36 cm |
| Neck Opening | 16" | 41 cm |
---
## MATERIALS
### Yarn
**4-Ply / Fingering Weight Wool** (recommended: 100% wool or wool blend for blocking and colorwork definition)
| Color | Role | Yardage (yards) | Yardage (meters) | Grams (approx.) |
|-------|------|-----------------|------------------|-----------------|
| MC - Navy | Main Color (Background) | 950 | 870 | 240g |
| CC1 - Cream | Contrast Color 1 (Primary motif) | 250 | 230 | 65g |
| CC2 - Red | Contrast Color 2 (Accent) | 100 | 90 | 25g |
| CC3 - Light Blue | Contrast Color 3 (Detail) | 75 | 70 | 20g |
**Total yarn needed**: Approximately 1,375 yards (1,260 meters)
### Machine Requirements
- **Machine Type**: Standard gauge (4.5mm) knitting machine
- **Beds Required**: Main bed (ribber optional for hems)
- **Needle Count**: Minimum 200 needles for yoke section
- **Punchcard/Electronic**: 24-stitch punchcard OR electronic pattern capability
### Tools & Accessories
- Cast-on comb and weights
- Claw weights (4-6)
- Transfer tools (1×1, 2×1, 3×1)
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Waste yarn (contrasting smooth cotton)
- Ravel cord (smooth, strong contrast yarn)
- Row counter
- Stitch holders or waste yarn for holding stitches
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Blocking mats and pins
- Steam iron or garment steamer
---
## GAUGE
**⚠️ CRITICAL: Swatch in Fair Isle pattern, NOT plain stockinette**
### Stockinette Gauge (for reference only)
- Tension Dial: 6 (adjust for your machine/yarn)
- 28 stitches = 4" (10 cm)
- 40 rows = 4" (10 cm)
### Fair Isle Colorwork Gauge (USE THIS)
- Tension Dial: 7 (one full number LOOSER than stockinette)
- 28 stitches = 4" (10 cm)
- 38 rows = 4" (10 cm) *Note: Row gauge slightly tighter in colorwork*
### Gauge Swatch Instructions
1. Cast on 40 stitches using waste yarn method
2. Knit 10 rows MC at T7
3. Work 30 rows of Chart B (snowflake pattern) at T7
4. Knit 10 rows MC at T7
5. Bind off loosely
6. **WASH AND BLOCK** swatch before measuring
7. Measure center 28 stitches - must equal 4" (10 cm)
8. Check float tension - fabric should stretch horizontally without puckering
**Math Validation**:
- 7 sts/inch × 42" = 294 sts (using 296 for pattern repeat compatibility) ✓
- 10 rows/inch (stockinette) × 15" body = 150 rows ✓
- 9.5 rows/inch (colorwork) × 9.5" yoke ≈ 90 rows ✓
---
## ABBREVIATIONS & TERMINOLOGY
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|--------------|---------|
| RC | Row Counter |
| COL | Carriage On Left |
| COR | Carriage On Right |
| T | Tension dial setting |
| MC | Main Color (Navy) |
| CC1 | Contrast Color 1 (Cream) |
| CC2 | Contrast Color 2 (Red) |
| CC3 | Contrast Color 3 (Light Blue) |
| HP | Hold Position |
| WP | Working Position |
| NWP | Non-Working Position |
| FI | Fair Isle (both feeders threaded) |
| st(s) | Stitch(es) |
| inc | Increase |
| dec | Decrease |
---
## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
### Fair Isle Setup on Machine
1. **Feeder Threading**: Thread MC in feeder 1 (back), CC in feeder 2 (front)
2. **Tension**: Set T7 for Fair Isle (looser than stockinette)
3. **Carriage Settings**:
- Part buttons OFF
- Fair Isle cams engaged (consult machine manual)
- Slip setting OFF
4. **Float Length**: Charts designed with maximum 5-stitch floats
5. **Color Dominance**: MC (Navy) held in back feeder = dominant/recessive color for background
### Reading the Charts
- Charts read from bottom to top
- Right-side rows: read right to left (as yarn feeds)
- All rows shown (no wrong-side reversal needed for machine knitting)
- Stitch 1 is at right edge of chart
- Pattern repeats marked with [ ]
---
## COLORWORK CHARTS
### COLOR KEY (All Charts)
```
□ = MC (Navy - Main Color)
■ = CC1 (Cream - Contrast 1)
● = CC2 (Red - Contrast 2)
◊ = CC3 (Light Blue - Contrast 3)
```
---
### CHART A: Main Yoke Pattern - Nordic Star
**(24-stitch repeat × 31 rows)**
*Use for main yoke colorwork section. Pattern is centered on yoke.*
```
Row 31: □□□□□□□□□□□■□□□□□□□□□□□□
Row 30: □□□□□□□□□□■■■□□□□□□□□□□□
Row 29: □□□□□□□□□■□□□■□□□□□□□□□□
Row 28: □□□□□□□□■□□□□□■□□□□□□□□□
Row 27: □□□□□□□■□□●□□□■□□□□□□□□□
Row 26: □□□□□□■□□●●●□□□■□□□□□□□□
Row 25: □□□□□■□□●□□□●□□□■□□□□□□□
Row 24: □□□□■□□●□□□□□●□□□■□□□□□□
Row 23: □□□■□□●□□◊□□□●□□□■□□□□□□
Row 22: □□■□□●□□◊◊◊□□□●□□□■□□□□□
Row 21: □■□□●□□◊□□□◊□□□●□□□■□□□□
Row 20: ■□□●□□◊□□□□□◊□□□●□□□■□□□
Row 19: □■□□●□□◊□□□◊□□□●□□□■□□□□
Row 18: □□■□□●□□◊◊◊□□□●□□□■□□□□□
Row 17: □□□■□□●□□◊□□□●□□□■□□□□□□
Row 16: □□□□■□□●□□□□□●□□□■□□□□□□
Row 15: □□□□□■□□●□□□●□□□■□□□□□□□
Row 14: □□□□□□■□□●●●□□□■□□□□□□□□
Row 13: □□□□□□□■□□●□□□■□□□□□□□□□
Row 12: □□□□□□□□■□□□□□■□□□□□□□□□
Row 11: □□□□□□□□□■□□□■□□□□□□□□□□
Row 10: □□□□□□□□□□■■■□□□□□□□□□□□
Row 9: □□□□□□□□□□□■□□□□□□□□□□□□
Row 8: ■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■
Row 7: □□□□□□□□□□□■□□□□□□□□□□□□
Row 6: □□□□□□□□□□■■■□□□□□□□□□□□
Row 5: □□□□□□□□□■□□□■□□□□□□□□□□
Row 4: □□□□□□□□■□□□□□■□□□□□□□□□
Row 3: □□□□□□□■□□□□□□□■□□□□□□□□
Row 2: □□□□□□■□□□□□□□□□■□□□□□□□
Row 1: □□□□□■□□□□□□□□□□□■□□□□□□
[-------24 stitch repeat-------]
```
**Chart A Notes:**
- 24-stitch repeat fits evenly into yoke stitch counts
- Maximum float length: 5 stitches
- Center diamond features CC2 (Red) with CC3 (Light Blue) accent
- Row 8 is a solid CC1 separator band
---
### CHART B: Snowflake Border
**(8-stitch repeat × 15 rows)**
*Use for lower yoke and optional cuff/hem accent.*
```
Row 15: □□□■□□□□
Row 14: □□■■■□□□
Row 13: □■□■□■□□
Row 12: ■■■■■■■□
Row 11: □■□■□■□□
Row 10: □□■■■□□□
Row 9: □□□■□□□□
Row 8: □□□□□□□□
Row 7: □□□□□□□■
Row 6: □□□□□□■■
Row 5: □□□□□■□■
Row 4: □■■■■■■■
Row 3: □□□□□■□■
Row 2: □□□□□□■■
Row 1: □□□□□□□■
[8 sts]
```
**Chart B Notes:**
- Simple 8-stitch repeat
- Alternating snowflake placement (offset by 4 stitches on rows 1-7 vs 9-15)
- Maximum float length: 4 stitches
- Good for punchcard machines (8 × 3 = 24 stitch punchcard)
---
### CHART C: Peerie Pattern (Small Repeat)
**(4-stitch repeat × 5 rows)**
*Use for upper yoke near neck and sleeve details.*
```
Row 5: □■□■
Row 4: ■□■□
Row 3: □■□■
Row 2: ■□■□
Row 1: □■□■
[4st]
```
**Chart C Notes:**
- Smallest repeat for areas with fewer stitches
- Classic "salt and pepper" or checkerboard effect
- Maximum float: 1 stitch (excellent tension control)
---
### CHART D: XO Border
**(8-stitch repeat × 7 rows)**
*Use between main pattern sections.*
Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk
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