Purl Jam Classic Beanie (Brim-Up, In-the-Round or Flat)

Clean, elastic, and endlessly wearable. This brim-up beanie is sized from baby to XL adult, written for circular or flat knitting, and packed with fit math so your hat lands perfect the first time. Calm vibes, crisp details, great texture—let’s knit.

Skill Level

Adventurous beginner and up. You should be comfortable with knit/purl, working in the round (or seaming if flat), and simple decreases.

Sizes, Head Circumference, and Cast-On

Sizes are given as Baby (Toddler, Child, Adult S, Adult M/L, Adult XL). Target negative ease: 1.5–2 in (4–5 cm).

• Baby: head 14–16 in (35.5–40.5 cm); CO 64 sts; finished circ ≈ 12.8 in (32.5 cm).
• Toddler: head 16.5–18.5 in (42–47 cm); CO 88 sts; finished circ ≈ 17.6 in (44.7 cm).
• Child: head 19–21 in (48–53.5 cm); CO 96 sts; finished circ ≈ 19.2 in (48.8 cm).
• Adult S: head 21–22 in (53.5–56 cm); CO 96 sts; finished circ ≈ 19.2 in (48.8 cm).
• Adult M/L: head 22–23.25 in (56–59 cm); CO 104 sts; finished circ ≈ 20.8 in (52.8 cm).
• Adult XL: head 23.25–24.75 in (59–63 cm); CO 112 sts; finished circ ≈ 22.4 in (56.9 cm).

Quick fit math (if substituting gauge): CO = nearest multiple of 8 to [head (in) × sts per in × 0.9–0.92]. Example at 5 sts/in for 22 in head: 22 × 5 × 0.9 ≈ 99; round to 96 or 104 depending on preference.

Yarn

Worsted/Aran-weight yarn (US: Category 4), smooth plied yarn recommended for crisp stitch definition.

• Approx yardage by size (Imperial/Metric): Baby 90–110 yd (82–100 m); Toddler 120–150 yd (110–137 m); Child 150–180 yd (137–165 m); Adult S 170–200 yd (155–183 m); Adult M/L 190–230 yd (174–210 m); Adult XL 220–260 yd (201–238 m).
• Approx yarn weight used: Baby 1.0–1.8 oz (28–50 g); Toddler 2.1–2.7 oz (60–75 g); Child 2.7–3.2 oz (75–90 g); Adult S 3.0–3.5 oz (85–100 g); Adult M/L 3.5–4.2 oz (100–120 g); Adult XL 4.2–5.3 oz (120–150 g).
• Typical skeins: 3.5 oz/100 g ≈ 180–220 yd (165–200 m). One 100 g skein covers all but XL in some fibers.

Needles

• Brim needle: US 6 (4.0 mm; UK/Old 8).
• Body needle: US 7 (4.5 mm; UK/Old 7).
• Optional for gauge tweaking: US 5 (3.75 mm; UK/Old 9) or US 8 (5.0 mm; UK/Old 6).
• Lengths: 16 in (40 cm) circular for most sizes, and DPNs 6–8 in (15–20 cm) or a 32–40 in (80–100 cm) circular for magic loop and crown.

Notions

• Stitch markers: 1 BOR + 8 for crown.
• Tapestry needle, scissors, measuring tape.
• Optional: US G/6 (4.0 mm) crochet hook for provisional/tubular cast-on, pom maker.

Gauge

20 sts × 28 rnds = 4 in × 4 in (10 × 10 cm) in stockinette in the round after a light block. Adjust needle size to hit gauge. Row/rnd gauge affects height; stitch gauge affects width.

Abbreviations & Stitches

• BOR: beginning of round
• k, p: knit, purl
• k2tog: knit 2 together (right-leaning dec)
• ssk: slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit together through back loops (left-leaning dec)
• pm/sm: place/slip marker
• tbl: through back loop
• k1tbl, p1: twisted 1×1 rib option

Construction Overview

Worked brim-up in the round. Choose a straight or folded brim. Knit the body to depth, then shape crown with 8 decrease points for a smooth dome. Option for flat knitting with a seam provided.

Finished Depth Guide

• Classic fit total height (incl. brim): Baby 5.5–6.5 in (14–16.5 cm); Toddler 7–7.5 in (18–19 cm); Child 7.5–8 in (19–20.5 cm); Adult S 8–8.5 in (20.5–21.5 cm); Adult M/L 8.5–9 in (21.5–23 cm); Adult XL 9–9.5 in (23–24 cm).
• Slouch: add 1.5–3 in (4–8 cm) to body before crown.

Pattern (In the Round)

Sizes throughout: Baby (Toddler, Child, Adult S, Adult M/L, Adult XL) = 64 (88, 96, 96, 104, 112) sts.

1. Using brim needle, CO 64 (88, 96, 96, 104, 112) sts with a stretchy method (long-tail, German twisted, or tubular). Join in the round without twisting. Place BOR marker.
2. Brim: Work either 1×1 rib [k1, p1] or twisted 1×1 rib [k1tbl, p1] in the round for 1.5–2 in (4–5 cm) for a classic brim, or 3–4 in (7.5–10 cm) for a fold-over brim.
3. Body setup: Switch to body needle. Knit 1 rnd even. If you worked twisted rib, knit the first round normally (do not twist) to transition cleanly.
4. Body: Knit until piece measures from CO edge (including brim): Baby 3.75–4 in (9.5–10 cm); Toddler 5 in (12.5 cm); Child 5.25 in (13.5 cm); Adult S 5.5 in (14 cm); Adult M/L 6 in (15 cm); Adult XL 6.25 in (16 cm). For slouch, add 1.5–3 in (4–8 cm).
5. Crown setup markers: Place 8 markers evenly around as section dividers. Distribute stitches into 8 equal sections as follows (sts per section): Baby 8; Toddler 11; Child 12; Adult S 12; Adult M/L 13; Adult XL 14. To place: from BOR, k section count, pm; repeat 7 more times; BOR remains your reference.
6. Crown decreases: Work the following two-round sequence, then finish as instructed.
   Round A (decrease): For each section, sm, ssk, knit to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog. You decrease 2 sts per section × 8 = 16 sts total.
   Round B: Knit all stitches.
   Repeat Rounds A & B until you have roughly 32–40 sts remaining (size-dependent and fabric preference). Then work Round A every round until you have 8–16 sts remaining (Baby/Toddler may stop at 8; Child–Adult may prefer 12–16 for a rounder top).
7. Finish: Cut yarn, leaving a 8–10 in (20–25 cm) tail. Thread through remaining live sts twice, pull snug, and secure on WS. Weave in ends.

Crown Quick Reference by Size

• Baby (64 sts): Rpt A/B until 32 sts; then A every rnd to 16 or 8.
• Toddler (88 sts): Rpt A/B until 40 sts; then A every rnd to 8–12.
• Child (96 sts): Rpt A/B until 40–32 sts; then A every rnd to 12–16.
• Adult S (96 sts): same as Child.
• Adult M/L (104 sts): Rpt A/B until 40–32 sts; then A every rnd to 12–16.
• Adult XL (112 sts): Rpt A/B until 32–40 sts; then A every rnd to 16.

Pattern (Flat/Back-and-Forth Option)

1. CO as per size on straight or circular needles. Work RS/WS rows.
2. Brim: Row 1 (RS) k1, p1 across; Row 2 (WS) p1, k1 across. Repeat for desired brim depth.
3. Body: Switch to body needle. Work stockinette (RS knit, WS purl) until same body length as in-the-round version.
4. Crown shaping: Establish 8 decrease points across the row. On a RS decrease row: Work setup to distribute 8 sections as evenly as possible. At the start of each section on RS: ssk; at the end of each section on RS: k2tog. WS rows: purl all. Repeat RS dec rows every RS row (with purl WS rows between) until ≈ 32–40 sts remain; then work RS dec rows on every RS and WS row (purl WS while working p2tog at section ends and ssp at section starts if desired) until 8–16 sts remain.
5. Finish: Cut yarn, thread through live sts, pull tight. Block lightly, then mattress seam the back edges from brim to crown. Weave in ends.

Customization

• Folded brim: Work brim to 3–4 in (7.5–10 cm), then continue. Tack fold at a few points if desired.
• Rib variants: 2×2 rib for a chunkier brim; seed or broken rib for full hat texture (adjust gauge swatch in pattern stitch).
• Stripes: Change colors on a knit round; carry yarn up neatly on the inside or weave ends as you go.
• Pompom: 2.5–4 in (6–10 cm) diameter. Anchor firmly after blocking.

Blocking & Care

Soak in cool water with a wool wash, gently squeeze, roll in a towel, and dry flat. Shape crown, avoid stretching the brim. Follow fiber care instructions.

Troubleshooting & Fit Tips

• Too loose: Drop body needle size or reduce CO by 8 sts.
• Too snug: Increase CO by 8 sts or add a half-size by working a deeper body before crown.
• Pointy crown: Start decreases later or stop at 12–16 sts before cinching.
• Ridge at join: On magic loop, tighten the first 2 sts each round or shift BOR by 2–4 sts occasionally.

Needle Reference (US / UK Old / Metric)

• US 5 / UK 9 / 3.75 mm
• US 6 / UK 8 / 4.0 mm
• US 7 / UK 7 / 4.5 mm
• US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm

Support

Questions or sizing tweaks? We’re here. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk • Email: team@verde.uk • Socials: #purljam

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