Fair Isle Pullover for 2 Years (Colourspun Pure Cotton DK) - Top-down Yoke

A soft, washable fair isle pullover in 5 Colourspun Pure Cotton DK colours. Worked top-down with a stranded yoke — modern, comfortable fit for a 2-year-old (approx 21" / 53 cm chest).

Finished measurements

Chest (unstretched): 21 in / 53 cm
Body length (shoulder to hem): 12 in / 30 cm
Sleeve length (underarm to cuff): 9 in / 23 cm

Yarn (Colourspun Pure Cotton DK)

5 colours total: 1 Main Colour (MC) + 4 Contrast Colours (CC1, CC2, CC3, CC4)
Suggested quantities: MC — 2 x 50 g (100 g total) / 3.5 oz total (approx); CC1–CC4 — 1 x 50 g each (50 g / 1.75 oz each)
Per ball: 50 g / 1.75 oz = approx 120 m / 131 yd
Total (suggested): 6 x 50 g = 300 g / 10.6 oz ≈ 720 m / 786 yd (approx)

Needles & notions

Ribbing: 3.75 mm (US 5 / UK (old) 9) circular 16"/40 cm or DPNs
Main body & yoke: 4.0 mm (US 6 / UK (old) 8) circulars: 16"/40 cm (for neck), 24"/60 cm and 32"/80 cm for working in the round as stitches increase
Double-pointed needles (DPNs) 3.75 mm & 4.0 mm or a long circular for magic loop
Stitch markers (4), tapestry needle, waste yarn or stitch holders, small scrap yarn for provisional or waste, row counter optional

Gauge

22 stitches and 28 rounds = 10 cm / 4 in in stockinette using 4.0 mm needles; gauge in stranded colourwork may be slightly firmer — check and adjust needle size if necessary.

Abbreviations

K = knit
P = purl
K2tog = knit 2 together
ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
M1L/M1R = make 1 left/right (increase)
st(s) = stitch(es)
MC = main colour; CC1–CC4 = contrast colours
RS = right side

Notes & tips

This is worked top-down in the round with raglan increases. The fair isle chart is worked across the yoke while you perform raglan increases every other round until you reach the finished yoke circumference.
Keep floats loose — do not pull them tight. Catch long floats every 3–5 sts. Try holding MC in one hand and CCs in the other to get an even tension.
If the yoke motif doesn’t line up exactly at the raglan seams, place full motif repeats centered on the front and back and allow half-motifs to sit on sleeves. The instructions include counts so you know how many stitches each panel will have.

Colour key (use letters in chart)

A = MC
B = CC1
C = CC2
D = CC3
E = CC4

Fair Isle Yoke Chart (12-st repeat)

Chart legend: each character represents 1 stitch. Repeat motif horizontally as needed; the raglan markers fall between sections (see instructions).

Round 16:  A A A A B B A A A A B B
Round 15:  A A A B B C C B B A A A
Round 14:  A A B C C C C C B B A A
Round 13:  A B C D D D D D C C B A
Round 12:  A B C D E E E E D C B A
Round 11:  A B C D E D E D C B A A
Round 10:  A B C D D D D D C B A A
Round 9 :  A A B C C C C C B B A A
Round 8 :  A A A B B C C B B A A A
Round 7 :  A A A A B B A A A A B B
Round 6 :  A A A B B B B B B A A A
Round 5 :  A A B B B B B B B B A A
Round 4 :  A B B B B B B B B B B A
Round 3 :  A A A A A A A A A A A A
Round 2 :  A A A A A A A A A A A A
Round 1 :  A A A A A A A A A A A A

Read chart right-to-left for each round (this is worked in the round). The 12-st horizontal repeat should be repeated across each section of the yoke.

Instructions

1) Neck & rib

Using 3.75 mm needles and MC cast on 52 sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.
Work k2, p2 rib for 6 rounds (approx 1.5 cm / 0.6 in) or until desired neck depth.
Change to 4.0 mm circular. Work 1 round in MC in stockinette (knit every round) to set base for colourwork.

2) Set raglan markers & begin yoke

Arrange stitches and place markers as follows so you have four equal sections: [Front] marker [Sleeve1] marker [Back] marker [Sleeve2] marker. With 52 sts this is 13 sts per section.
Start working the fair isle chart from Round 1, knitting every stitch in the round following the row’s colours. Work chart rounds in sequence as you knit the yoke.
Raglan increases: On every odd-numbered chart round following the stitch pattern (i.e., every other round), work increases BEFORE and AFTER each raglan marker as follows: work to 1 st before marker, M1R, slip marker, M1L, then continue. These increases add 8 sts on each increase round (2 per raglan point overall).
Continue the chart pattern, alternating an increase round then a plain pattern round, maintaining the colourwork. Continue until each of the four sections measures 29 sts (total stitches = 116). Starting from 13 sts per section you will add 16 sts to each section over 8 increase rounds, so you should reach the target after 8 increase rounds (16 rounds total because increases happen every other round). Confirm section counts by counting stitches between markers.

3) Divide for body and sleeves

Once yoke increases are complete and you have 116 sts total, place the stitches of Sleeve1 (29 sts) onto waste yarn or stitch holders. Do the same for Sleeve2 (29 sts). There will be 58 sts left for the body (Front 29 + Back 29).
Join the body in the round carefully (ensure your beginning-of-round marker is placed) and continue working the chart or switch to MC only if you prefer to stop the colourwork. If you continue a fair isle band on the body, work full repeats centered on front and back.

4) Body

Body round count: With 58 sts on the 4.0 mm needles, work in the round in stockinette (knit every round) in MC until body length measures approx 30 cm / 12 in from the shoulder (or desired length to hem).
Switch to 3.75 mm needles. Work k2, p2 rib for 4 cm / 1.5 in. Bind off loosely in pattern.

5) Sleeves

Transfer sleeve stitches from holders onto 3.75 mm needles (or 4.0 mm if you prefer a looser fabric — but maintain gauge). Each sleeve begins with 29 sts. To close the small hole at the underarm, pick up 2 sts evenly from the body underarm gap and add them to the sleeve to give 31 sts OR pick up 0–4 sts as needed so the underarm gap is closed—most knitters find 2–4 sts works well. (Example below assumes picking up 2 sts = 31 sts total.)
Join in the round, place marker for beginning of sleeve round. Work in MC in stockinette until sleeve measures 23 cm / 9 in from underarm (or desired sleeve length).
Switch to 3.75 mm needles. Work k2, p2 rib for 4 cm / 1.5 in. Bind off loosely in rib.
Make second sleeve to match.

6) Finishing

Weave in ends with tapestry needle. Tuck in colourwork tails neatly, trimming floats as needed. Block lightly by steaming or wet-blocking flat — as cotton can relax and shape well when wet. Do not overstretch.

Short row or size adjustments

To make a smaller size (12–18 months), reduce final chest circumference by removing some increase rounds — monitor section stitch counts; aim for final total 106 sts (approx). For larger size (3–4 years), add extra increase rounds until desired stitch count is reached; adjust yarn quantities accordingly.
To lengthen body or sleeves, add stockinette rounds before ribbing.

Stranded knitting tips

Float management: carry unused colours loosely across the back; catch long floats by twisting yarns every 3–5 stitches.
Colour dominance: whichever colour you carry in front of the other will appear more prominent. Keep your MC as the dominant colour on the right-hand needle if you want MC to dominate.
Keep tension even by occasionally stretching the work gently while knitting the colourwork rows.

Care

Machine wash warm (40°C) on gentle cycle or hand wash; reshape and dry flat. Colourspun cotton can shrink a little on first wash — allow for this when deciding final length.

Troubleshooting

If chest seems too tight, go up one needle size for the body (try 4.5 mm / US 7 / UK (old) 7) and re-check gauge.
If yoke feels too stiff because of stranded floats, block the finished jumper gently to relax the fabric.

If you need help with any step, check precise stitch counts after each increase round and compare to the stated section count (29 sts per panel at yoke division). Adjust picked-up underarm stitches for a neat join. For more patterns and support visit https://purljam.verde.uk or email team@verde.uk. Follow #purljam on socials.

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