purlJam

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# Alternating Hearts Granny Square
### A Two-Color Knitted Square with Upright & Upside-Down Heart Motifs

---

## Description

This charming square features a row of three hearts across the center: the outer two hearts point upward and the center heart points downward (upside-down), creating a fun, graphic alternating design. Worked flat in two colors using simple stranded colorwork, this square is a wonderful introduction to reading a chart and carrying yarn. It makes a perfect dishcloth, coaster, or building block for a sampler blanket.

**Finished Size:** Approximately 7.5 inches × 7.5 inches (19 cm × 19 cm) after blocking

---

## Materials

| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| **Yarn A (Background)** | Worsted weight, ~60 yards (55 m) — sample shown in cream |
| **Yarn B (Hearts)** | Worsted weight, ~25 yards (23 m) — sample shown in red |
| **Needles** | US 7 / 4.5 mm straight or circular needles |
| **Notions** | Tapestry needle for weaving ends, scissors, ruler or tape measure, blocking mat and pins (optional but recommended) |
| **Gauge swatch** | Recommended before beginning |

**Yarn Notes:** Any smooth worsted weight yarn works well. Avoid highly textured or variegated yarns for the hearts color (Yarn B) as this obscures the motif. A high-contrast color pairing (e.g., white/red, navy/yellow) gives the clearest result.

---

## Gauge

**18 stitches × 24 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in Stockinette Stitch**

*To check your gauge:* Cast on 22 stitches with Yarn A. Work in stockinette stitch (knit RS rows, purl WS rows) for 28 rows. Bind off. Block lightly and measure the center 4 inches. Adjust needle size as needed — go up a needle size if your swatch is too small, down a size if too large.

> **Why gauge matters here:** Since this is a decorative square, gauge affects the final size and proportions of the hearts. A looser gauge will make the hearts appear wider and rounder; a tighter gauge will make them taller and narrower.

---

## Abbreviations

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **A** | Yarn A (background color) |
| **B** | Yarn B (heart color) |
| **CO** | Cast on |
| **BO** | Bind off |
| **k** | Knit |
| **p** | Purl |
| **RS** | Right side (the side you want to show) |
| **WS** | Wrong side |
| **st(s)** | Stitch(es) |
| **rep** | Repeat |
| **pm** | Place marker |
| **sl m** | Slip marker |
| **wyib** | With yarn in back |
| **wyif** | With yarn in front |

---

## Pattern Notes

1. **Reading the Chart:** The chart is read from bottom to top. Right-side (RS) rows are read from right to left. Wrong-side (WS) rows are read from left to right. Each square on the chart represents one stitch.

2. **Color Key:**
   - □ Empty/white square = **Yarn A** (background)
   - ■ Filled/colored square = **Yarn B** (hearts)

3. **Carrying Yarn:** When working colorwork, carry the unused yarn loosely across the back of the work. Since the hearts are only 9 stitches wide with gaps between them, you will be starting and stopping Yarn B across the row rather than stranding across the full width. See the **Beginner Tip** below.

4. **Upright vs. Upside-Down Hearts:** The same 9-stitch × 9-row chart is used for both heart orientations. The **upright heart** is worked by reading the chart from **Row 1 up to Row 9**. The **upside-down heart** is worked by reading the same chart from **Row 9 down to Row 1** (i.e., the chart is flipped vertically).

5. **Selvedge Stitches:** The first and last stitch of every row are always worked in Yarn A in knit stitch on both RS and WS rows to create a neat, stable edge. These are included in the 41-stitch count.

6. **Tension on WS Rows:** When purling WS rows with two colors, be especially careful not to pull the carried yarn too tightly. Loosely spread your stitches on the right needle before crossing colors.

> **Beginner Tip — Managing Two Yarns:** The simplest approach for a beginner is to use a separate small bobbin or butterfly of Yarn B for each heart. That means you will have three small lengths of Yarn B attached at once (one per heart). This avoids long floats across the back. When you reach a section worked only in Yarn A (the borders and gaps between hearts), simply drop Yarn B and pick it up again when the next heart begins. Twist the yarns at the color join to avoid a hole.

---

## The Heart Chart

The following 9-stitch × 9-row chart is used for ALL hearts. Upright hearts read rows bottom-to-top (Row 1 → Row 9). Upside-down hearts read rows top-to-bottom (Row 9 → Row 1).

```
         ← RS (right to left on RS rows) ←
    St:  9  8  7  6  5  4  3  2  1
         -------------------------
Row 9:  [□][□][□][□][B][□][□][□][□]   ← Top of upright heart (single tip)
Row 8:  [□][□][□][B][B][B][□][□][□]
Row 7:  [□][□][B][B][B][B][B][□][□]
Row 6:  [□][B][B][B][B][B][B][B][□]
Row 5:  [B][B][B][B][B][B][B][B][B]   ← Widest row (all 9 sts = B)
Row 4:  [□][B][B][B][B][B][B][B][□]
Row 3:  [□][□][B][B][□][B][B][□][□]  ← Two bumps (top of heart lobes)
Row 2:  [□][B][B][□][□][□][B][B][□]
Row 1:  [□][□][□][□][□][□][□][□][□]  ← Blank base row (all A)
         -------------------------
```

**Reading the chart as text (Yarn A = A, Yarn B = B):**

| Row | Stitch sequence (9 sts, read right to left on RS) |
|---|---|
| Row 1 | A, A, A, A, A, A, A, A, A |
| Row 2 | A, B, B, A, A, A, B, B, A |
| Row 3 | A, A, B, B, A, B, B, A, A |
| Row 4 | A, B, B, B, B, B, B, B, A |
| Row 5 | B, B, B, B, B, B, B, B, B |
| Row 6 | A, B, B, B, B, B, B, B, A |
| Row 7 | A, A, B, B, B, B, B, A, A |
| Row 8 | A, A, A, B, B, B, A, A, A |
| Row 9 | A, A, A, A, B, A, A, A, A |

> **Chart Check:** Count Yarn B stitches per row: Row 1 = 0, Row 2 = 4, Row 3 = 4, Row 4 = 7, Row 5 = 9, Row 6 = 7, Row 7 = 5, Row 8 = 3, Row 9 = 1. The heart is symmetrical around the center stitch (stitch 5). ✓

---

## Stitch Count Layout

**Total stitches: 41**

The 41 stitches are arranged across each row as follows:

```
[4 border sts in A] + [9 heart sts] + [1 gap st in A] + [9 heart sts] + [1 gap st in A] + [9 heart sts] + [4 border sts in A]

= 4 + 9 + 1 + 9 + 1 + 9 + 4 = 41 ✓
```

- **Hearts 1 and 3** (left and right) = **Upright hearts** (chart read Row 1 → Row 9)
- **Heart 2** (center) = **Upside-down heart** (chart read Row 9 → Row 1)

---

## Row Structure Overview

| Section | Rows | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Bottom Border | Rows 1–12 | Stockinette in Yarn A only |
| Heart Band | Rows 13–21 | Colorwork chart (9 rows) |
| Top Border | Rows 22–44 | Includes 2 transition rows + stockinette in Yarn A |

Wait — let me lay this out precisely:

| Section | Row Numbers | Row Count | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bottom Border | Rows 1–12 | 12 rows | All Yarn A, stockinette |
| Heart Chart Rows | Rows 13–21 | 9 rows | Colorwork (see chart instructions below) |
| Top Border | Rows 22–44 | 23 rows | All Yarn A — but wait, this gives 44 rows |

**Corrected Row Structure:**

| Section | Row Numbers | Row Count |
|---|---|---|
| Bottom Border | Rows 1–12 | 12 rows |
| Heart Colorwork Band | Rows 13–21 | 9 rows |
| Top Border | Rows 22–33 | 12 rows |
| **Total** | | **33 rows** |

> **Dimensions Check:** 33 rows ÷ 24 rows per 4 inches = 5.5 inches vertically. That's a bit short. To achieve ~7.5 inches:
> 7.5 inches × (24 rows ÷ 4 inches) = 45 rows needed.
> **Revised:** 18 border rows bottom + 9 chart rows + 18 border rows top = 45 rows ✓
> 45 rows ÷ 24 rows per 4 inches = 7.5 inches ✓

**Final Row Structure:**

| Section | Row Numbers | Row Count |
|---|---|---|
| Bottom Border | Rows 1–18 | 18 rows |
| Heart Colorwork Band | Rows 19–27 | 9 rows |
| Top Border | Rows 28–45 | 18 rows |
| **Total** | | **45 rows** |

**Width Check:** 41 sts ÷ 18 sts per 4 inches × 4 = 9.1 inches. Hmm — that's wider than 7.5 inches. For a more square proportion with worsted at this gauge, let's reduce to **37 sts**:

Revised layout: `[3 border] + [9 heart] + [1 gap] + [9 heart] + [1 gap] + [9 heart] + [3 border]`
= 3 + 9 + 1 + 9 + 1 + 9 + 3 = **35 sts**
Width: 35 ÷ 18 × 4 = 7.78 inches ≈ 7.75 inches ✓ (close to square with 7.5 inch height — excellent)

> **Final dimensions: 35 sts wide × 45 rows tall ≈ 7.75 inches × 7.5 inches — nearly square. ✓**

**Stitch layout (35 sts):**

```
[3 border A] + [9 heart] + [1 gap A] + [9 heart] + [1 gap A] + [9 heart] + [3 border A]
= 3 + 9 + 1 + 9 + 1 + 9 + 3 = 35 ✓
```

---

## Complete Pattern Instructions

### Step 1: Cast On

Using Yarn A and US 7 / 4.5 mm needles, CO **35 stitches** using your preferred cast-on method. (Long-tail cast-on is recommended for a neat, stable edge.)

---

### Step 2: Bottom Border (Rows 1–18)

Work entirely in **Yarn A**.

**All RS rows (odd-numbered rows):** K35.
**All WS rows (even-numbered rows):** K3, p29, k3.

> **Note on Border Texture:** The first and last 3 stitches of every WS row are knitted (not purled). This creates a garter stitch border on all four edges of the square, which lies flat without curling and gives a neat frame. The center 29 stitches form a stockinette field.

Work Rows 1–18 as established. **You will have completed 18 rows.** The piece should measure approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) from the cast-on edge.

> **Stitch Count Check after Row 18:** 35 sts ✓

---

### Step 3: Heart Colorwork Band (Rows 19–27)

You will now work 9 rows of colorwork following the heart chart. Attach Yarn B at the start of Row 19.

**Position of hearts across the row:**

```
Stitches 1–3:    Border (always Yarn A)
Stitches 4–12:   Heart 1 (UPRIGHT — use chart Rows 1–9)
Stitch 13:       Gap stitch (always Yarn A)
Stitches 14–22:  Heart 2 (UPSIDE-DOWN — use chart Rows 9–1, reversed)
Stitch 23:       Gap stitch (always Yarn A)
Stitches 24–32:  Heart 3 (UPRIGHT — use chart Rows 1–9)
Stitches 33–35:  Border (always Yarn A)
```

**For each colorwork row:**
- **RS rows** (odd): Read the chart right to left for the heart stitches. Knit all stitches in the color indicated.
- **WS rows** (even): Read the chart left to right for the heart stitches. **Purl** all heart stitches in the color indicated. Knit the 3 border stitches at each end in Yarn A.

> **Important:** On WS rows, the border stitches (sts 1–3 and 33–35) are still **knitted** in Yarn A to maintain the garter border. The interior stitches (including gap stitches 13 and 23) are **purled** in the appropriate color.

---

**Row-by-Row Colorwork Instructions:**

Reference the chart table above. Below, each row is written out in full. "Border" = k3 A on RS rows; k3 A on WS rows. "Gap" = k1 A on RS; p1 A on WS.

**Row 19 (RS) — Chart Row 1 for Hearts 1 & 3; Chart Row 9 for Heart 2:**

```
Heart 1 chart row = Row 1: A A A A A A A A A  (all 9 sts in A)
Heart 2 chart row = Row 9: A A A A B A A A A  (upside-down: center st only in B)
Heart 3 chart row = Row 1: A A A A A A A A A  (all 9 sts in A)
```

Full Row 19: k3(A), k9(A), k1(A), k4(A) k1(B) k4(A), k1(A), k9(A), k3(A)
= k3A, k9A, k1A, k4A, k1B, k4A, k1A, k9A, k3A

Simplified: k20(A), k1(B), k14(A) — total 35 sts ✓

---

**Row 20 (WS) — Chart Row 2 for Hearts 1 & 3; Chart Row 8 for Heart 2:**

```
Heart 1 chart row = Row 2: A B B A A A B B A
Heart 2 chart row = Row 8: A A A B B B A A A  (upside-down)
Heart 3 chart row = Row 2: A B B A A A B B A
```

Full Row 20 (WS — remember: border sts are knitted, interior sts are purled):

k3(A), p1(A) p2(B) p3(A) p2(B) p1(A), p1(A), p3(A) p3(B) p3(A), p1(A), p1(A) p2(B) p3(A) p2(B) p1(A), k3(A)

Let's verify stitch count: 3 + 9 + 1 + 9 + 1 + 9 + 3 = 35 ✓

---

**Row 21 (RS) — Chart Row 3 for Hearts 1 & 3; Chart Row 7 for Heart 2:**

```
Heart 1 = Row 3: A A B B A B B A A
Heart 2 = Row 7: A A B B B B B A A  (upside-down)
Heart 3 = Row 3: A A B B A B B A A
```

Full Row 21: k3(A), k2(A) k2(B) k1(A) k2(B) k2(A), k1(A), k2(A) k5(B) k2(A), k1(A), k2(A) k2(B) k1(A) k2(B) k2(A), k3(A)

Stitch count: 3+9+1+9+1+9+3 = 35 ✓

---

**Row 22 (WS) — Chart Row 4 for Hearts 1 & 3; Chart Row 6 for Heart 2:**

```
Heart 1 = Row 4: A B B B B B B B A
Heart 2 = Row 6: A B B B B B B B A  (upside-down — same as Row 4!)
Heart 3 = Row 4: A B B B B B B B A
```

Full Row 22: k3(A), p1(A) p7(B) p1(A), p1(A), p1(A) p7(B) p1(A), p1(A), p1(A) p7(B) p1(A), k3(A)

Stitch count: 3+9+1+9+1+9+3 = 35 ✓

> **Note:** Chart Row 4 and Row 6 are identical sequences. This is correct — they are mirror images that happen to have the same stitch arrangement due to the heart's symmetry at these rows. ✓

---

**Row 23 (RS) — Chart Row 5 for Hearts 1 & 3; Chart Row 5 for Heart 2:**

```
Heart 1 = Row 5: B B B B B B B B B  (all 9 sts in B)
Heart 2 = Row 5: B B B B B B B B B  (same — middle of both upright and upside-down is Row 5)
Heart 3 = Row 5: B B B B B B B B B  (all 9 sts in B)
```

Full Row 23: k3(A), k9(B), k1(A), k9(B), k1(A), k9(B), k3(A)

Stitch count: 3+9+1+9+1+9+3 = 35 ✓

> **Visual Guide:** This is the widest row of all three hearts — a striking horizontal band of color. After working this row, your hearts are half complete.

---

**Row 24 (WS) — Chart Row 6 for Hearts 1 & 3; Chart Row 4 for Heart 2:**

```
Heart 1 = Row 6: A B B B B B B B A
Heart 2 = Row 4: A B B B B B B B A  (upside-down — same sequence)
Heart 3 = Row 6: A B B B B B B B A
```

Full Row 24: k3(A), p1(A) p7(B) p1(A), p1(A), p1(A) p7(B) p1(A), p1(A), p1(A) p7(B) p1(A), k3(A)

Stitch count: 35 ✓ (identical layout to Row 22)

---

**Row 25 (RS) — Chart Row 7 for Hearts 1 & 3; Chart Row 3 for Heart 2:**

```
Heart 1 = Row 7: A A B B B B B A A
Heart 2 = Row 3: A A B B A B B A A  (upside-down)
Heart 3 = Row 7: A A B B B B B A A
```

Full Row 25: k3(A), k2(A) k5(B) k2(A), k1(A), k2(A) k2(B) k1(A) k2(B) k2(A), k1(A), k2(A) k5(B) k2(A), k3(A)

Stitch count: 3+9+1+9+1+9+3 = 35 ✓

---

**Row 26 (WS) — Chart Row 8 for Hearts 1 & 3; Chart Row 2 for Heart 2:**

```
Heart 1 = Row 8: A A A B B B A A A
Heart 2 = Row 2: A B B A A A B B A  (upside-down)
Heart 3 = Row 8: A A A B B B A A A
```

Full Row 26: k3(A), p3(A) p3(B) p3(A), p1(A), p1(A) p2(B) p3(A) p2(B) p1(A), p1(A), p3(A) p3(B) p3(A), k3(A)

Stitch count: 3+9+1+9+1+9+3 = 35 ✓

---

**Row 27 (RS) — Chart Row 9 for Hearts 1 & 3; Chart Row 1 for Heart 2:**

```
Heart 1 = Row 9: A A A A B A A A A  (single tip — top of upright heart)
Heart 2 = Row 1: A A A A A A A A A  (all A — base/blank row, which is the tip of upside-down heart)
Heart 3 = Row 9: A A A A B A A A A  (single tip)
```

Full Row 27: k3(A), k4(A) k1(B) k4(A), k1(A), k9(A), k1(A), k4(A) k1(B) k4(A), k3(A)

Stitch count: 3+9+1+9+1+9+3 = 35 ✓

> **Colorwork Complete!** You have now worked all 9 rows of the heart chart. Break Yarn B, leaving a 6-inch tail to weave in. The upright hearts (Hearts 1 and 3) point upward with a single tip at the top. The center heart (Heart 2) points downward — its V-notch is at the top and its single point is at the bottom. ✓

> **Stitch Count Check after Row 27:** 35 sts ✓

---

### Step 4: Top Border (Rows 28–45)

Work entirely in **Yarn A** only.

**All RS rows (odd-numbered rows):** K35.
**All WS rows (even-numbered rows):** K3, p29, k3.

Work Rows 28–45 as established. **You will complete 18 rows of top border.**

> **Row Count Check:** 18 (bottom border) + 9 (colorwork) + 18 (top border) = 45 rows total ✓

---

### Step 5: Bind Off

**Row 46 (RS):** Using Yarn A, bind off all 35 stitches knitwise. Do not bind off too tightly — aim for the same gauge as your knitting. A stretchy bind-off (such as the suspended bind-off) is ideal.

---

## Finishing Instructions

### Weave in Ends
Thread your tapestry needle with each yarn tail. Weave each tail through at least 6–8 stitches on the wrong side, changing direction at least once to secure it. For color-change tails, weave within stitches of the same color for the most invisible result.

### Blocking
Blocking is strongly recommended and will transform your square:

1. Soak the square in cool water for 10–15 minutes until fully saturated.
2. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring).
3. Roll in a clean dry towel and press to remove more moisture.
4. Lay flat on a blocking mat or foam tiles.
5. Pin to measurements: approximately 7.75 inches × 7.5 inches (19.5 cm × 19 cm), or square it up to 7.5 inches × 7.5 inches (19 cm × 19 cm) as preferred.
6. Allow to dry completely (several hours to overnight).

### Optional: Make Multiple Squares
This square is designed to be joined with others into a blanket, wall hanging, or pillow cover. For a blanket, sew squares together with mattress stitch in Yarn A for an invisible seam.

---

## Quick Reference Chart Summary

| Colorwork Row (Pattern Row) | Heart 1 (sts 4–12) | Heart 2 (sts 14–22) | Heart 3 (sts 24–32) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Row 19 | Chart R1: all A | Chart R9: 4A,1B,4A | Chart R1: all A |
| Row 20 | Chart R2: 1A,2B,3A,2B,1A | Chart R8: 3A,3B,3A | Chart R2: 1A,2B,3A,2B,1A |
| Row 21 | Chart R3: 2A,2B,1A,2B,2A | Chart R7: 2A,5B,2A | Chart R3: 2A,2B,1A,2B,2A |
| Row 22 | Chart R4: 1A,7B,1A | Chart R6: 1A,7B,1A | Chart R4: 1A,7B,1A |
| Row 23 | Chart R5: 9B | Chart R5: 9B | Chart R5: 9B |
| Row 24 | Chart R6: 1A,7B,1A | Chart R4: 1A,7B,1A | Chart R6: 1A,7B,1A |
| Row 25 | Chart R7: 2A,5B,2A | Chart R3: 2A,2B,1A,2B,2A | Chart R7: 2A,5B,2A |
| Row 26 | Chart R8: 3A,3B,3A | Chart R2: 1A,2B,3A,2B,1A | Chart R8: 3A,3B,3A |
| Row 27 | Chart R9: 4A,1B,4A | Chart R1: all A | Chart R9: 4A,1B,4A |

> **Final Math Verification:**
> - Cast on: 35 sts ✓
> - Total rows: 45 + 1 bind-off row ✓
> - Width: 35 sts ÷ 18 sts per 4 in × 4 = 7.78 in ≈ 7.75 in ✓
> - Height: 45 rows ÷ 24 rows per 4 in × 4 = 7.5 in ✓
> - Colorwork rows: 9 (one per chart row) ✓
> - Each colorwork row: 35 sts confirmed ✓

---

## Troubleshooting Tips for Beginners

| Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
| Puckering around the hearts | Your carried yarn is too tight. Spread stitches on right needle before picking up the new color. |
| Long loose floats on the back | You have only 1 gap stitch and max 9 sts of one color — floats should be short. Ensure you're picking up colors correctly. |
| Yarn B peeking through on WS | Slightly tighten Yarn B when carrying it across the back. |
| Edge stitches are loose | Slip the first stitch of every row purlwise with yarn in front for a neater selvedge. |
| Heart shape looks unclear | Check that you've read the chart in the right direction — RS rows right to left, WS rows left to right. |
| Center heart doesn't look upside-down | Confirm you're using chart Row 9 on Row 19, Row 8 on Row 20, etc. — counting down for Heart 2 while counting up for Hearts 1 and 3. |

---

*Pattern designed for personal and gift use. Please credit the designer if sharing. Not for commercial sale without permission.*