purlJam

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# ARCHER TURTLENECK JUMPER

### A Top-Down Seamless Raglan Pullover

---

## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

The Archer Turtleneck Jumper is a confident, clean-lined pullover with a signature tall ribbed turtleneck and a relaxed-but-structured silhouette. Worked seamlessly from the top down, the raglan construction makes fitting adjustments easy as you go. The 2×2 ribbed collar can be worn folded down for a classic look or pulled straight up for extra warmth on cold days.

**Difficulty:** Intermediate
**Construction:** Top-down seamless raglan, worked in the round
**Fit:** Relaxed fit with 5–8 cm (2–3") of positive ease

---

## SIZES

**XS (S, M, L, XL)**

To fit bust: **81 (86, 97, 107, 117) cm / 32 (34, 38, 42, 46)"**
Finished bust: **86 (91, 102, 112, 122) cm / 34 (36, 40, 44, 48)"**

> **Tip:** Choose your size based on finished bust measurement. The Archer is designed with 5–8 cm (2–3") of positive ease for a comfortable, everyday fit.

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
**Worsted weight (CYCA 4)**
Approximately **900 (1,000, 1,150, 1,300, 1,450) metres / 985 (1,095, 1,260, 1,425, 1,590) yards**

*Sample shown in a 100% merino wool worsted weight. A wool or wool-blend yarn is strongly recommended for warmth, stitch definition, and the natural elasticity needed for the turtleneck ribbing.*

### Needles
- **3.75 mm (US 5)** circular needle, 40 cm (16") length — *for turtleneck collar*
- **4.5 mm (US 7)** circular needle, 40 cm (16") length — *for yoke*
- **4.5 mm (US 7)** circular needle, 80 cm (32") or longer — *for body*
- **4.5 mm (US 7)** DPNs or long circular for magic loop — *for sleeves*

*Always check your tension before beginning.*

### Notions
- 8 stitch markers (suggest 4 matching pairs — 4 for raglan lines, and differentiated markers for beginning of round)
- 1 locking stitch marker or safety pin (BOR marker)
- Waste yarn or stitch holders (for holding sleeve stitches)
- Tapestry needle for finishing
- Scissors

---

## TENSION (GAUGE)

**20 sts × 28 rounds = 10 cm (4") square**
Worked in stocking stitch in the round, on 4.5 mm needles, after blocking.

**Rib tension (for collar):**
**22 sts × 30 rounds = 10 cm (4")**
Worked in 2×2 rib in the round, on 3.75 mm needles, slightly relaxed.

> **Important:** Tension is critical for this pattern, particularly for the turtleneck — too loose and the collar will flare; too tight and it will be difficult to get on. Take time to swatch and block your tension square before beginning.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| BOR | beginning of round |
| CO | cast on |
| BO | bind off |
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| rm | remove marker |
| m1l | make 1 left (lift bar between sts, knit through back loop) |
| m1r | make 1 right (lift bar between sts, knit through front loop) |
| RS | right side |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| rnd(s) | round(s) |
| rep | repeat |
| approx | approximately |

---

## STITCH GLOSSARY

**2×2 Rib (worked in the round, multiple of 4 sts):**
*All rounds:* \*k2, p2; rep from \* to end of round.

**Raglan Increase Round:**
Work to 1 st before raglan marker, m1r, k1, sm, k1, m1l; repeat at each of the 4 raglan markers. (8 sts increased per increase round.)

**Stocking Stitch (in the round):**
Knit every round.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. The jumper is worked from the top down, beginning with the turtleneck collar.
2. The turtleneck collar is worked on smaller needles (3.75 mm) to ensure a snug, close fit. Change to 4.5 mm needles before beginning yoke increases.
3. Eight stitch markers divide the yoke into sections: **back, [raglan], sleeve, [raglan], front, [raglan], sleeve, [raglan]**. The raglan markers sit at each of the four raglan lines.
4. Increases are worked one stitch either side of each raglan marker (the single knit stitch that flanks each marker is the "raglan stitch").
5. When separating for body and sleeves, sleeve stitches are placed on waste yarn. Underarm stitches are cast on to bridge the gap.
6. Instructions are given for size XS, with larger sizes in parentheses: **XS (S, M, L, XL)**. Where only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

---

## STITCH COUNTS AT A GLANCE

Use this table to track your progress through the yoke.

| Section | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Collar / initial CO | 88 | 92 | 96 | 104 | 112 |
| Back sts at CO | 26 | 28 | 30 | 32 | 34 |
| Each sleeve at CO | 14 | 14 | 14 | 16 | 18 |
| Front sts at CO | 26 | 28 | 30 | 32 | 34 |
| Raglan sts (each, ×4) | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Number of increase rounds | 24 | 26 | 29 | 32 | 34 |
| Total sts at separation | 280 | 300 | 328 | 360 | 384 |
| Body sts at separation | 168 | 180 | 200 | 220 | 236 |
| Each sleeve at separation | 52 | 56 | 60 | 66 | 72 |
| Underarm CO (each side) | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| Total body sts (after joining) | 176 | 188 | 208 | 228 | 244 |

> **Maths check:** Total at separation = body sts + (2 × sleeve sts) + 8 raglan sts. E.g. XS: 168 + 104 + 8 = 280 ✅

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

---

### SECTION 1: TURTLENECK COLLAR

Using **3.75 mm** circular needle (40 cm / 16") and long-tail cast-on (or your preferred stretchy method), CO **88 (92, 96, 104, 112) sts**.

*Cast-on count must be a multiple of 4 for 2×2 rib. Confirm: 88 = 22×4 ✅ / 92 = 23×4 ✅ / 96 = 24×4 ✅ / 104 = 26×4 ✅ / 112 = 28×4 ✅*

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Place BOR marker.

**Rib Round:** \*k2, p2; rep from \* to end. (88 (92, 96, 104, 112) sts)

Repeat the Rib Round until collar measures **20 (20, 20, 20, 20) cm / 8"** from cast-on edge.

> **Note on wearing:** When folded, the collar will sit at approximately 10 cm (4") tall. If you prefer a shorter fold, work collar to 16 cm (6.25") total. If you prefer to wear it unfolded as a high funnel neck, 20 cm is ideal.

Do **not** break yarn. Do **not** change the round yet — continue directly to yoke set-up.

---

### SECTION 2: YOKE SET-UP

**Change to 4.5 mm** circular needle (40 cm / 16").

On the next round, place markers to divide stitches into raglan sections as follows:

**Set-Up Round:**

k**26 (28, 30, 32, 34)** [back], pm (raglan marker), k**1** (raglan st), pm (raglan marker), k**14 (14, 14, 16, 18)** [left sleeve], pm (raglan marker), k**1** (raglan st), pm (raglan marker), k**26 (28, 30, 32, 34)** [front], pm (raglan marker), k**1** (raglan st), pm (raglan marker), k**14 (14, 14, 16, 18)** [right sleeve], pm (raglan marker), k**1** (raglan st), pm (raglan marker / BOR).

*Stitch count check (XS): 26 + 1 + 14 + 1 + 26 + 1 + 14 + 1 = 84 ... wait — we need to reconcile the 88 CO with the set-up. Note: The BOR marker is placed at the end of the right raglan stitch, within the existing 88 sts. The 4 raglan stitches are included in the CO count. Confirm XS: 26 (back) + 1 (raglan) + 14 (sleeve) + 1 (raglan) + 26 (front) + 1 (raglan) + 14 (sleeve) + 1 (raglan) = 84 sts... We need 88 sts total. Adjust: back = 27, front = 27, each raglan = 1, each sleeve = 14. 27+1+14+1+27+1+14+1 = 86. Still need 2 more. Revise to back = 28, front = 28: 28+1+14+1+28+1+14+1 = 88 ✅.*

*Full revised set-up counts:*

| Section | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Back | 28 | 28 | 30 | 34 | 36 |
| Each raglan st | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Each sleeve | 14 | 16 | 16 | 16 | 18 |
| Front | 28 | 28 | 30 | 34 | 36 |
| **Total** | **88** | **92** | **96** | **104** | **112** |

*Verify: XS: 28+1+14+1+28+1+14+1 = 88 ✅ | S: 28+1+16+1+28+1+16+1 = 92 ✅ | M: 30+1+16+1+30+1+16+1 = 96 ✅ | L: 34+1+16+1+34+1+16+1 = 104 ✅ | XL: 36+1+18+1+36+1+18+1 = 112 ✅*

**Set-Up Round (revised):**

k**28 (28, 30, 34, 36)** [back], pm, k1, pm, k**14 (16, 16, 16, 18)** [sleeve], pm, k1, pm, k**28 (28, 30, 34, 36)** [front], pm, k1, pm, k**14 (16, 16, 16, 18)** [sleeve], pm, k1, pm (BOR).

You now have: 88 (92, 96, 104, 112) sts, divided as above.

---

### SECTION 3: YOKE — RAGLAN INCREASES

You will work the yoke in two alternating round types:

**Increase Round:**
\*Work to 1 st before raglan marker, m1r, k1, sm, k1, m1l; rep from \* at all 4 raglan markers. Knit to end. (8 sts increased)

**Plain Round:**
Knit all stitches, slipping markers as you pass them.

**Work Increase Round, then Plain Round** alternately until you have completed **24 (26, 29, 32, 34) Increase Rounds** total.

*After all increase rounds:*

| Section | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Back sts | 76 (28+24+24) | 80 | 88 | 98 | 104 |
| Each raglan st | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Each sleeve sts | 62 (14+24+24) | 68 | 74 | 80 | 86 |
| Front sts | 76 | 80 | 88 | 98 | 104 |

*Wait — this gives much larger sleeve numbers than the target. Let me re-approach. Each increase round adds 2 sts to back, 2 sts to front, and 2 sts to EACH sleeve (one m1r + one m1l on each raglan). After 24 increase rounds on XS: back = 28 + 24×2 = 76, front = 76, each sleeve = 14 + 24×2 = 62. Total = 76+1+62+1+76+1+62+1 = 280 ✅. Target separation for XS body = 168 (back 84 + front 84) ✅. Each sleeve = 62. But target was 52 sleeves from the planning table. Let me reconcile: at 62 sts per sleeve × 2 = 124 sleeve sts; body = 76+76 = 152 body sts; +4 raglan sts = 156; total = 280. But 152 body sts ≠ 168 body sts target. The discrepancy arises from the planning table. Let me rebuild from scratch with correct maths.*

*Correct approach — work backwards from finished bust:*
*XS finished bust = 86 cm. At 20 sts/10 cm, body = 86 × 2 = 172 sts. With 4 sts underarm each side: body sts pre-join from yoke = 172 - 8 = 164 sts (split ~82 back, ~82 front).*
*Yoke formula: back sts = front sts = CO_back + (2 × inc_rounds). Sleeve sts = CO_sleeve + (2 × inc_rounds).*
*XS: CO_back = 28. After n rounds: back = 28 + 2n = 82 → 2n = 54 → n = 27 increase rounds.*
*Sleeve at separation = 14 + 2×27 = 68 sts.*
*Total at separation: 82+1+68+1+82+1+68+1 = 304 sts. With 8 underarm CO: 304 + 8 = ... body = 82+82+8 = 172 ✅.*

*Revise for all sizes:*

| Size | CO back/front | CO sleeve | Inc Rnds | Back/Front at sep | Sleeve at sep | Total at sep |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 28 | 14 | 27 | 82 | 68 | 82+1+68+1+82+1+68+1 = **304** |
| S | 28 | 16 | 29 | 86 | 74 | 86+1+74+1+86+1+74+1 = **324** |
| M | 30 | 16 | 31 | 92 | 78 | 92+1+78+1+92+1+78+1 = **344** |
| L | 34 | 16 | 33 | 100 | 82 | 100+1+82+1+100+1+82+1 = **368** |
| XL | 36 | 18 | 35 | 106 | 88 | 106+1+88+1+106+1+88+1 = **392** |

*Body sts at separation (back + front, before underarm CO):*
*XS: 82+82 = 164; +8 = 172 → 86 cm ✅*
*S: 86+86 = 172; +8 = 180 → 90 cm ✅*
*M: 92+92 = 184; +8 = 192 → 96 cm ✅ (target 102 cm — slight shortfall, adjust. Increase front/back CO by 2: CO back/front = 32, inc 31: 32+62 = 94 each side, total body = 188+8 = 196 → 98 cm. Or adjust inc rounds to 33: 30+66 = 96 each side → 192+8 = 200 → 100 cm ✅)*
*Let me simplify and target clean numbers:*

**Final revised targets:**

| Size | Finished bust | Body sts (total in round) | Body sts from yoke | Underarm CO |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 86 cm / 34" | 172 | 164 (82+82) | 4+4 = 8 |
| S | 91 cm / 36" | 182 | 174 (87+87) | 4+4 = 8 |
| M | 102 cm / 40" | 204 | 196 (98+98) | 4+4 = 8 |
| L | 112 cm / 44" | 224 | 216 (108+108) | 4+4 = 8 |
| XL | 122 cm / 48" | 244 | 236 (118+118) | 4+4 = 8 |

*Now solve for increase rounds needed per size:*
*XS: back CO = 28, need 82 → need 54 added = 27 inc rnds; sleeve = 14+27×2 = 68*
*S: back CO = 28, need 87 → need 59 added = 29.5 — not whole. Adjust: CO back = 29... but must be even for symmetry, and total CO must be multiple of 4.*

*The cleanest approach is to let the back/front be slightly asymmetric at set-up by making the section between markers the target, then confirming divisibility. Let me instead work from sleeve-body ratio and accept that back+front at separation may be close but not necessarily split 50/50.*

*SIMPLIFIED FINAL APPROACH — nail down the key numbers for the pattern:*

I will target specific total-at-separation numbers and work backwards cleanly.

| Size | CO | Inc Rnds | Back | Each Sleeve | Front | Total | Body (back+front) | + 8 underarm | Finished bust |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 88 | 27 | 28+54=82 | 14+54=68 | 28+54=82 | 304 | 164 | 172 | 86 cm ✅ |
| S | 92 | 29 | 28+58=86 | 16+58=74 | 28+58=86 | 324 | 172 | 180 | 90 cm ≈ 91 cm ✅ |
| M | 100 | 31 | 32+62=94 | 18+62=80 | 32+62=94 | 352 | 188 | 196 | 98 cm ≈ 102 cm (close) |
| L | 108 | 34 | 36+68=104 | 18+68=86 | 36+68=104 | 400 | 208 | 216 | 108 cm ≈ 112 cm (close) |
| XL | 116 | 37 | 40+74=114 | 18+74=92 | 40+74=114 | 440 | 228 | 236 | 118 cm ≈ 122 cm (close) |

*Verify CO mult of 4: 88✅ 92✅ 100✅ 108✅ 116✅*
*Verify back+front+sleeves×2+4 raglan = total: XS: 82+82+68+68+4=304✅ S: 86+86+74+74+4=324✅ M: 94+94+80+80+4=352✅ L:104+104+86+86+4=384... not 400. Recheck: L CO=108: back=36, each sleeve=18, front=36, raglan×4=4. 36+36+18+18+4=112... That's not 108. Let me recount: 36+1+18+1+36+1+18+1=112 ≠ 108. Need to fix.*

*I need to be more careful. The CO must exactly equal: back + front + 2×sleeve + 4×raglan (4 single sts).*

*Set-up equation: CO = back + front + 2×sleeve + 4.*
*XS: 88 = 28+28+2×14+4 = 28+28+28+4 = 88 ✅*
*S: 92 = 28+28+2×16+4 = 28+28+32+4 = 92 ✅*
*M: 100 = 32+32+2×16+4 = 32+32+32+4 = 100 ✅*
*L: 108 = 36+36+2×16+4 = 36+36+32+4 = 108 ✅*
*XL: 116 = 40+40+2×16+4 = 40+40+32+4 = 116 ✅*

*Now compute at separation with these sleeve start values:*

| Size | CO | Back CO | Sleeve CO | Front CO | Inc Rnds | Back at sep | Sleeve at sep | Front at sep | Total sts |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 88 | 28 | 14 | 28 | 27 | 82 | 68 | 82 | 82+1+68+1+82+1+68+1=**304** |
| S | 92 | 28 | 16 | 28 | 29 | 86 | 74 | 86 | 86+1+74+1+86+1+74+1=**324** |
| M | 100 | 32 | 16 | 32 | 31 | 94 | 78 | 94 | 94+1+78+1+94+1+78+1=**348** |
| L | 108 | 36 | 16 | 36 | 33 | 102 | 82 | 102 | 102+1+82+1+102+1+82+1=**372** |
| XL | 116 | 40 | 16 | 40 | 35 | 110 | 86 | 110 | 110+1+86+1+110+1+86+1=**396** |

*Body sts from yoke + underarm = total body in round:*
*XS: (82+82)+8 = 172 → 172/20×10 = 86 cm ✅*
*S: (86+86)+8 = 180 → 90 cm ✅ (target 91 — 1 cm off, acceptable)*
*M: (94+94)+8 = 196 → 98 cm (target 102 — 4 cm short). To fix M: need 204 body sts → from yoke 196 back+front → 98 each → 32+2n=98 → n=33 inc rounds. Sleeve = 16+66=82.*
*L: need 216 body → 108 each side → 36+2n=108 → n=36. Sleeve = 16+72=88.*
*XL: need 236 body → 118 each side → 40+2n=118 → n=39. Sleeve = 16+78=94.*

*Verify CO with these adjustments (CO unchanged since it's the neck CO, inc rounds change):*

| Size | Inc Rnds | Back at sep | Sleeve at sep | Total sts at sep | Body (back+front+8) | Bust cm |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 27 | 82 | 68 | 304 | 172 | 86 cm ✅ |
| S | 29 | 86 | 74 | 324 | 180 | 90 cm ✅ |
| M | 33 | 98 | 82 | (98+1+82+1)×2 = 364 | 204 | 102 cm ✅ |
| L | 36 | 108 | 88 | (108+1+88+1)×2 = 396 | 224 | 112 cm ✅ |
| XL | 39 | 118 | 94 | (118+1+94+1)×2 = 428 | 244 | 122 cm ✅ |

*Verify totals: M: 98+1+82+1+98+1+82+1 = 364 ✅ L: 108+1+88+1+108+1+88+1=396✅ XL:118+1+94+1+118+1+94+1=428✅*

*Yoke depth check (at 28 rows/10 cm, 2 rounds per inc):*
*XS: 27×2=54 plain+inc rounds + setup = approx 54–60 total rounds = ~19–21 cm yoke depth ✅ (template says 20–25 cm)*
*XL: 39×2=78 rounds ≈ 28 cm — slightly deep but acceptable for larger sizes ✅*

**These are the final numbers. Now I can write the clean pattern.**

---

Rewriting Section 3 with correct numbers:

---

### SECTION 3: YOKE — RAGLAN INCREASES (REWRITTEN WITH CORRECT NUMBERS)

**Revised Set-Up Round:**

k**28 (28, 32, 36, 40)** [back], pm, k1, pm, k**14 (16, 16, 16, 16)** [sleeve], pm, k1, pm, k**28 (28, 32, 36, 40)** [front], pm, k1, pm, k**14 (16, 16, 16, 16)** [sleeve], pm, k1, pm (BOR).

*Verify: XS: 28+1+14+1+28+1+14+1=88✅ S:28+1+16+1+28+1+16+1=92✅ M:32+1+16+1+32+1+16+1=100✅ L:36+1+16+1+36+1+16+1=108✅ XL:40+1+16+1+40+1+16+1=116✅*

Work **27 (29, 33, 36, 39) Increase Rounds**, working a Plain Round between each Increase Round.

*After all increase rounds:*

| Section | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Back sts | 82 | 86 | 98 | 108 | 118 |
| Each raglan st | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Each sleeve sts | 68 | 74 | 82 | 88 | 94 |
| Front sts | 82 | 86 | 98 | 108 | 118 |
| **Total** | **304** | **324** | **364** | **396** | **428** |

---

Now I have all correct numbers. Let me write the complete, clean, final pattern.

---

**END OF PLANNING/CALCULATION — WRITING FINAL PATTERN NOW**

---

# ARCHER TURTLENECK JUMPER

*A seamless top-down raglan pullover*

---

## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

The Archer Turtleneck Jumper is a confident, timeless pullover with a signature tall 2×2 ribbed turtleneck and a clean, relaxed silhouette. Worked seamlessly from the top down, the raglan construction allows you to try the jumper on as you knit and adjust the length to suit your body. The name Archer speaks to the straight, purposeful lines of this design — a wardrobe staple for cooler weather.

The turtleneck collar is worked first on smaller needles for a close, snug fit, then increased to body-needle size for the yoke. When finished, the collar can be worn folded down for a classic roll-neck look, or pulled straight up as a cosy high neck.

**Difficulty:** Intermediate
**Construction:** Top-down, seamless, worked in the round with raglan shaping
**Fit:** Relaxed, with approximately 5–8 cm (2–3") of positive ease at the bust

---

## SIZES

**1 (2, 3, 4, 5)**
*(Shown as XS / S / M / L / XL for reference)*

**To fit bust:** 81 (86, 97, 107, 117) cm / 32 (34, 38, 42, 46)"
**Finished bust:** 86 (90, 102, 112, 122) cm / 34 (35.5, 40, 44, 48)"

*To choose your size:* Measure your bust at its fullest point. Select the size where the **finished bust** measurement gives you approximately 5–8 cm (2–3") more than your actual bust measurement. For a closer fit, size down; for a more oversized look, size up.

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | Size 1 (XS) | Size 2 (S) | Size 3 (M) | Size 4 (L) | Size 5 (XL) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Finished bust | 86 cm / 34" | 90 cm / 35.5" | 102 cm / 40" | 112 cm / 44" | 122 cm / 48" |
| Body length (underarm to hem) | 38 cm / 15" | 38 cm / 15" | 40 cm / 15.75" | 40 cm / 15.75" | 42 cm / 16.5" |
| Yoke depth | 19 cm / 7.5" | 21 cm / 8.25" | 24 cm / 9.5" | 26 cm / 10.25" | 28 cm / 11" |
| Sleeve length (underarm to cuff) | 46 cm / 18" | 46 cm / 18" | 46 cm / 18" | 47 cm / 18.5" | 47 cm / 18.5" |
| Upper arm circumference | 38 cm / 15" | 41 cm / 16" | 45 cm / 17.75" | 48 cm / 19" | 51 cm / 20" |
| Cuff circumference | 20 cm / 8" | 22 cm / 8.75" | 22 cm / 8.75" | 22 cm / 8.75" | 22 cm / 8.75" |
| Turtleneck height (unfolded) | 20 cm / 8" | 20 cm / 8" | 20 cm / 8" | 20 cm / 8" | 20 cm / 8" |

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
**Worsted weight / Aran blend (CYCA 4)**
A wool or wool-blend yarn is strongly recommended — the natural elasticity is ideal for the turtleneck ribbing and the warmth is suited to the design's purpose as a cold-weather jumper.

**Yarn requirements:**

| Size | Metres | Yards |
|---|---|---|
| 1 (XS) | approx 900 m | approx 985 yds |
| 2 (S) | approx 1,000 m | approx 1,095 yds |
| 3 (M) | approx 1,150 m | approx 1,260 yds |
| 4 (L) | approx 1,300 m | approx 1,425 yds |
| 5 (XL) | approx 1,450 m | approx 1,590 yds |

*Sample shown in a single-ply 100% merino worsted, in shade "Slate". Any worsted-weight yarn achieving the stated tension is suitable.*

### Needles

| Needle | Size | Length | Used for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Circular | 3.75 mm (US 5) | 40 cm (16") | Turtleneck collar |
| Circular | 4.5 mm (US 7) | 40 cm (16") | Yoke |
| Circular | 4.5 mm (US 7) | 80–100 cm (32–40") | Body |
| DPNs or long circular (magic loop) | 4.5 mm (US 7) | 20 cm (8") DPNs or 80+ cm for magic loop | Sleeves |

*Note: If you tend to knit tightly, go up half a needle size on the collar (try 4.0 mm). If your ribbing is loose, try 3.5 mm. Always match your collar tension by feel — it should stretch over your head comfortably but return to sit snugly on your neck.*

### Notions
- 8 stitch markers: 4 for raglan lines (use one colour), 1 for BOR (use a contrasting colour/locking marker), and spare markers for tracking waist shaping (optional)
- Waste yarn or 2 stitch holders (for sleeves)
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors

---

## TENSION (GAUGE)

**20 sts × 28 rounds = 10 cm (4") square in stocking stitch in the round on 4.5 mm needles, after blocking.**

Take time to swatch. Cast on at least 28 sts and work 35+ rounds in stocking stitch in the round. Cast off, wet block, and measure once dry.

**If your tension is too loose** (fewer sts per 10 cm): go down half a needle size.
**If your tension is too tight** (more sts per 10 cm): go up half a needle size.

> Tension note for turtleneck: The collar is worked in 2×2 rib on 3.75 mm needles, intentionally smaller than the body needles. This keeps the collar snug and close-fitting. You do not need to match a specific rib tension — the smaller needle size relative to your body needle is what matters.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| BOR | beginning of round |
| CO | cast on |
| BO | bind off |
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased, leans right) |
| ssk | slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit both together through back loops (1 stitch decreased, leans left) |
| pm | place stitch marker |
| sm | slip stitch marker |
| rm | remove stitch marker |
| m1l | make 1 left: lift the bar between stitches from front to back with left needle, knit through the back loop |
| m1r | make 1 right: lift the bar between stitches from back to front with left needle, knit through the front loop |
| rnd(s) | round(s) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| rep | repeat |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| approx | approximately |

---

## STITCH GLOSSARY

**2×2 Rib (worked in the round, multiple of 4 sts):**
Every round: \*k2, p2; rep from \* to end of round.

**Raglan Increase Round:**
*\*Work in pattern to 1 st before raglan marker, m1r, k1 (raglan st), sm, k1 (raglan st), m1l; repeat from \* at all 4 raglan markers, knit to end.*
*(8 sts increased total per Increase Round: 2 sts increased at each of 4 raglan markers.)*

**Plain Round:**
Knit all stitches, slipping all markers as you pass them.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Direction:** This jumper is worked from the top down, beginning with the turtleneck collar. You work the collar, then the yoke (with raglan increases), then separate body and sleeves and work each independently.

2. **Collar:** The turtleneck is worked on 3.75 mm needles (smaller than the body needles) so it sits close and snug against the neck. You change to 4.5 mm needles immediately before the first yoke row.

3. **Raglan markers:** Four pairs of markers divide the yoke into the four body/sleeve sections. The single knit stitch sitting either side of each raglan marker is the "raglan stitch" — these four lines of knit stitches will become the characteristic raglan seam lines. Increases are always worked as: m1r → k1 → marker → k1 → m1l.

4. **Switching needle lengths:** When the yoke stitches become too many for the 40 cm (16") circular, switch to your 80–100 cm (32–40") circular.

5. **Numbers:** Instructions are given for **Size 1 (XS)**, with larger sizes in parentheses: **1 (2, 3, 4, 5)**. When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes. Circle or highlight your size before beginning.

6. **Try it on as you go!** One of the great advantages of top-down construction is the ability to try the jumper on at any point. After separating the sleeves, try it on before continuing the body to confirm the underarm position is comfortable.

---

## STITCH COUNTS SUMMARY TABLE

*Use this table as a quick reference as you knit. Mark off each milestone.*

| Milestone | Size 1 (XS) | Size 2 (S) | Size 3 (M) | Size 4 (L) | Size 5 (XL) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Collar CO | 88 | 92 | 100 | 108 | 116 |
| Back sts at set-up | 28 | 28 | 32 | 36 | 40 |
| Each sleeve sts at set-up | 14 | 16 | 16 | 16 | 16 |
| Front sts at set-up | 28 | 28 | 32 | 36 | 40 |
| Number of Increase Rounds | 27 | 29 | 33 | 36 | 39 |
| Total sts at separation | 304 | 324 | 364 | 396 | 428 |
| Back sts at separation | 82 | 86 | 98 | 108 | 118 |
| Each sleeve sts at separation | 68 | 74 | 82 | 88 | 94 |
| Front sts at separation | 82 | 86 | 98 | 108 | 118 |
| Underarm CO per side | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| Total body sts (after joining) | 172 | 180 | 204 | 224 | 244 |

*Internal check — total at separation = back + 1 + sleeve + 1 + front + 1 + sleeve + 1:*
*Size 1: 82+1+68+1+82+1+68+1 = 304 ✅*
*Size 2: 86+1+74+1+86+1+74+1 = 324 ✅*
*Size 3: 98+1+82+1+98+1+82+1 = 364 ✅*
*Size 4: 108+1+88+1+108+1+88+1 = 396 ✅*
*Size 5: 118+1+94+1+118+1+94+1 = 428 ✅*

*Body sts in round after joining:*
*Size 1: 82+82+8 = 172 → 172÷20×10 = 86 cm ✅*
*Size 2: 86+86+8 = 180 → 90 cm ✅*
*Size 3: 98+98+8 = 204 → 102 cm ✅*
*Size 4: 108+108+8 = 224 → 112 cm ✅*
*Size 5: 118+118+8 = 244 → 122 cm ✅*

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

---

### PART ONE: TURTLENECK COLLAR

Using **3.75 mm circular needle (40 cm / 16")** and long-tail cast-on (or another stretchy cast-on of your choice), cast on **88 (92, 100, 108, 116) sts**.

*All cast-on counts are multiples of 4, required for 2×2 rib.*
*88÷4=22 ✅ / 92÷4=23 ✅ / 100÷4=25 ✅ / 108÷4=27 ✅ / 116÷4=29 ✅*

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. Place BOR marker.

**Rib Round:** \*k2, p2; rep from \* to end of round.

Work the Rib Round continuously until the collar measures **20 cm (8")** from the cast-on edge, measured unstretched.

> **Collar length note:** 20 cm (8") creates a generously tall collar that folds down to approximately 10 cm (4"). If you prefer a shorter fold, work to 16 cm (6.25"). If you prefer to wear the collar standing upright without folding, 20 cm gives a beautiful high neck. Do not work the collar shorter than 14 cm (5.5") or it will sit below the chin.

Do **not** break yarn. Continue to Part Two.

---

### PART TWO: YOKE SET-UP

Change to **4.5 mm circular needle (40 cm / 16")**.

On the next round, you will divide the stitches into sections and place your raglan markers. Work this set-up round **in stocking stitch (knit)** — the transition from rib to stocking stitch creates a natural visual boundary between collar and yoke.

**Yoke Set-Up Round:**

k**28 (28, 32, 36, 40)** *(back)*, pm *(raglan marker)*, k1 *(raglan stitch)*, pm *(raglan marker)*, k**14 (16, 16, 16, 16)** *(left sleeve)*, pm *(raglan marker)*, k1 *(raglan stitch)*, pm *(raglan marker)*, k**28 (28, 32, 36, 40)** *(front)*, pm *(raglan marker)*, k1 *(raglan stitch)*, pm *(raglan marker)*, k**14 (16, 16, 16, 16)** *(right sleeve)*, pm *(raglan marker)*, k1 *(raglan stitch)*, pm / sm *(BOR — this marker replaces your original BOR marker if you prefer, or place it alongside)*.

*Stitch count after set-up:*
*Size 1: 28+1+14+1+28+1+14+1 = 88 ✅*
*Size 2: 28+1+16+1+28+1+16+1 = 92 ✅*
*Size 3: 32+1+16+1+32+1+16+1 = 100 ✅*
*Size 4: 36+1+16+1+36+1+16+1 = 108 ✅*
*Size 5: 40+1+16+1+40+1+16+1 = 116 ✅*

You now have 8 markers placed: 4 pairs of raglan markers, with a single knit "raglan stitch" sitting between each pair. Your BOR marker sits at the end of the fourth raglan stitch (end of right sleeve / beginning of back).

---

### PART THREE: YOKE — RAGLAN INCREASES

You will now work the yoke, increasing 8 stitches every other round to shape the raglan. Work the two rounds below alternately:

---

**INCREASE ROUND** *(8 sts increased)*:
\*Knit to 1 st before raglan marker, m1r, k1, sm, k1, m1l; rep from \* 3 more times (at each of the 4 raglan markers). Knit to end of round.

**PLAIN ROUND**:
Knit all stitches, slipping markers as you pass them.

---

Work **[Increase Round, then Plain Round]** **27 (29, 33, 36, 39) times** total.

*After completing all increase rounds, your stitch counts will be:*

| Section | Size 1 | Size 2 | Size 3 | Size 4 | Size 5 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Back sts | 82 | 86 | 98 | 108 | 118 |
| Each raglan st | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Each sleeve sts | 68 | 74 | 82 | 88 | 94 |
| Front sts | 82 | 86 | 98 | 108 | 118 |
| **Total sts** | **304** | **324** | **364** | **396** | **428** |

*Yoke depth at this point (before body separation):*
*Size 1: 27 increase rounds × 2 rows each = 54 rounds + set-up = ~55 rounds ÷ 2.8 rounds/cm = approx 19–20 cm (7.5–8") ✅*
*Size 5: 39 × 2 = 78 rounds ≈ 28 cm (11") ✅*

> **Tip — switching needle lengths:** Once your total stitch count exceeds approximately 150 sts, the 40 cm (16") circular needle will become crowded. Switch to your 80–100 cm (32–40") circular needle at this point (usually around the 8th–12th increase round depending on your size).

> **Tip — try it on!** Before separating for body and sleeves, hold the work up over your shoulders and check that the raglan lines fall naturally at the shoulder. The sleeve stitches should sit comfortably over the upper arm. If the yoke feels too short in the body, work 2–4 additional Plain Rounds before separating.

---

### PART FOUR: SEPARATING BODY AND SLEEVES

On this round, you will place the sleeve stitches onto waste yarn and cast on underarm stitches to bridge the gap.

**Separation Round:**

1. Remove BOR marker and raglan markers as you encounter them throughout this round.
2. Knit **83 (87, 99, 109, 119) sts** — *this is your back section (82 + 1 raglan st)*
3. Place the next **70 (76, 84, 90, 96) sts** onto waste yarn — *this is your left sleeve section (68 sleeve sts + 1 raglan st on each side)*
4. Using backward loop (or cable cast-on), CO **4 sts** *(underarm stitches, left side)*
5. Knit **83 (87, 99, 109, 119) sts** — *this is your front section (82 + 1 raglan st)*
6. Place the next **70 (76, 84, 90, 96) sts** onto waste yarn — *right sleeve section*
7. CO **4 sts** *(underarm stitches, right side)*
8. Place BOR marker.

*Stitch count on needle (body):*
*Size 1: 83 + 4 + 83 + 4 = 174 — hmm, let me check.*

*Back "section" here = 82 back sts + 1 raglan stitch = 83.*
*Sleeve section placed on hold = 68 sleeve sts + 1 raglan st on each side = 68 + 2 = 70.*
*Front = 82 + 1 raglan = 83.*
*Second sleeve = 70.*
*Total held: 70+70 = 140. On needle before underarm: 83+83 = 166. + 8 underarm CO = 174.*

*But target body sts for Size 1 = 172. There is a 2-stitch discrepancy because I am including the 4 raglan stitches in the body count.*

*Let me reconsider. The 4 raglan stitches (one on each side of each sleeve) need to be clearly allocated. Standard practice: each raglan stitch can be absorbed into the sleeve or the body. The cleanest method: place each raglan stitch with the adjacent sleeve (2 raglan sts per sleeve, one on each side). This gives:*

*Sleeve on hold = 68 + 2 = 70 sts per sleeve.*
*Body on needle = 82 back + 82 front = 164 sts.*
*+ 8 underarm CO = 172 sts ✅.*

*So the separation should be:*
*Back = 82 sts (raglan sts go to sleeves), then sleeve (including adjacent raglan sts) = 1+68+1 = 70 sts to waste yarn, then front = 82 sts, then sleeve = 70 to waste yarn.*

*Updating the instructions accordingly:*

**Corrected Separation Round:**

1. Remove all raglan and BOR markers as you encounter them.
2. Knit **82 (86, 98, 108, 118) sts** *(back)*.
3. Place next **70 (76, 84, 90, 96) sts** onto waste yarn *(left sleeve — includes 1 raglan st each side of sleeve)*.
   *(Sleeve sts on hold: 1 raglan + 68 sleeve + 1 raglan = 70. ✅)*
4. CO 4 sts *(left underarm)*.
5. Knit **82 (86, 98, 108, 118) sts** *(front)*.
6. Place next **70 (76, 84, 90, 96) sts** onto waste yarn *(right sleeve)*.
7. CO 4 sts *(right underarm)*.
8. Place BOR marker.

*Stitch count on needle:*
*Size 1: 82 + 4 + 82 + 4 = 172 ✅*
*Size 2: 86+4+86+4 = 180 ✅*
*Size 3: 98+4+98+4 = 204 ✅*
*Size 4: 108+4+108+4 = 224 ✅*
*Size 5: 118+4+118+4 = 244 ✅*

*Sleeve sts on hold:*
*Size 1: 1+68+1 = 70 ✅ (68 sleeve sts + 2 raglan sts)*
*Size 2: 1+74+1 = 76 ✅*
*Size 3: 1+82+1 = 84 ✅*
*Size 4: 1+88+1 = 90 ✅*
*Size 5: 1+94+1 = 96 ✅*

All checks pass. Now writing the full clean pattern.

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