purlJam

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# BALLOON SLEEVE ROLL-NECK CROP SWEATER

### A Seamless Top-Down Raglan Pullover

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## OVERVIEW

A cropped, slightly oversized pullover with dramatic balloon sleeves and a generous roll-down neck. The stockinette collar curls naturally at the edge for a modern, effortless finish. Balloon sleeves are shaped with increases through the upper arm before tapering to a fitted ribbed cuff. Worked seamlessly from the top down in the round.

**Difficulty:** Advanced
**Construction:** Top-down, seamless, raglan in the round
**Collar:** Roll-neck (stockinette, curls outward — do not block flat)

---

## SIZES

XS / S / M / L / XL

**To fit bust:** 72–76 / 80–86 / 88–94 / 96–102 / 104–112 cm
(28–30 / 31.5–34 / 34.5–37 / 38–40 / 41–44 in)

**Finished bust circumference (with positive ease):**
82 / 92 / 100 / 108 / 118 cm (32.5 / 36 / 39.5 / 42.5 / 46.5 in)
*Approximately 6–10 cm (2.5–4 in) positive ease for oversized fit.*

**Finished length (underarm to hem):** 28 / 28 / 30 / 30 / 32 cm (11 / 11 / 12 / 12 / 12.5 in) — cropped

**Sleeve length (underarm to cuff, excluding cuff ribbing):** 44 / 44 / 46 / 46 / 48 cm (17.5 / 17.5 / 18 / 18 / 19 in)

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** DK weight (CYCA 3 / UK Light DK)
Recommended fibre: merino or merino-blend for drape, stitch definition, and comfort against the neck.

**Approximate yardage / meterage:**
| Size | Metres | Yards |
|------|--------|-------|
| XS | 950 m | 1,040 yds |
| S | 1,080 m | 1,180 yds |
| M | 1,200 m | 1,315 yds |
| L | 1,340 m | 1,465 yds |
| XL | 1,500 m | 1,640 yds |

**Needles:**
- 3.75 mm (US 5) circular needle, 40 cm (16 in) — for roll-neck collar
- 4.0 mm (US 6) circular needle, 40 cm (16 in) — for collar transition and yoke start
- 4.0 mm (US 6) circular needle, 80–100 cm (32–40 in) — for yoke and body
- 4.0 mm (US 6) DPNs or long circular for magic loop — for sleeves and cuffs
- 3.5 mm (US 4) DPNs or circular — for ribbed cuffs and hem

*Note: The collar is worked on a needle two sizes smaller than the body needle to control roll and prevent flaring. Switch to body needle size after the collar.*

**Notions:**
- 8 stitch markers (4 distinctive for raglan seams, 4 plain for beginning of round / sleeve markers)
- Stitch holders or waste yarn (for sleeve stitches)
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors

---

## TENSION (GAUGE)

**22 sts × 30 rows = 10 cm × 10 cm (4 × 4 in) in stocking stitch on 4.0 mm needles, blocked.**

*Take time to check your tension. Adjust needle size as necessary. A difference of even 1 stitch per 10 cm will significantly affect the finished size of this garment.*

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| beg | beginning |
| BO | cast / bind off |
| CO | cast on |
| cont | continue |
| dec | decrease(s) |
| DPN | double-pointed needle |
| inc | increase(s) |
| k | knit |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| kfb | knit into front and back of stitch |
| m | marker |
| M1L | make 1 left (lift bar between sts from front, knit through back loop) |
| M1R | make 1 right (lift bar between sts from back, knit through front loop) |
| p | purl |
| pm | place marker |
| rem | remaining |
| rep | repeat |
| rnd(s) | round(s) |
| RS | right side |
| sl m | slip marker |
| ssk | slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time, knit together through back loops (left-leaning decrease) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| St st | stocking stitch (knit every round when working in the round) |

---

## STITCH GLOSSARY

**Roll-neck collar:** Worked in St st (knit every round). The fabric naturally curls outward at the cast-on edge, forming a rolled collar. Do not block the collar flat — the curl is the design feature.

**Raglan increase round:**
*k to 1 st before raglan m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L; repeat at each of the 4 raglan markers* — 8 sts increased per round.

**1×1 Rib:** *k1, p1; repeat to end.*

**2×2 Rib:** *k2, p2; repeat to end.*

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. The sweater is worked from the top down in one piece. The roll-neck collar is worked first, then the yoke, then stitches are separated for the body and sleeves, and each section is completed in turn.
2. Balloon sleeves are the defining feature: stitches are increased through the upper sleeve to create volume, then decreased toward a fitted ribbed cuff. The balloon effect is most visible when the sleeve hangs freely.
3. The body is intentionally cropped. Measure from your underarm and use the length guides carefully — stopping at the correct point is essential.
4. When the instructions give multiple numbers, they appear in order: **XS / S / M / L / XL**. When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.
5. Work short rows for front neck shaping if you prefer a more fitted neckline (optional — instructions provided in the Collar section).
6. UK English is used throughout. "Cast off" and "bind off" are used interchangeably.

---

## SCHEMATIC

```
      |<-- neck -->|
  ___________________
 /    roll collar    \     ← 18 cm / 7 in stockinette
|____________________|
 \     yoke area     /     ← raglan increases
  \    (raglan)     /
   |_______________|
   |               |       ← body: 28–32 cm / 11–12.5 in
   |    BODY       |         cropped, slightly oversized
   |_______________|
   
 Sleeves (set separately):
  /\           /\
 /  \ balloon /  \
/    \       /    \
|     |     |     |        ← balloon fullness at mid-sleeve
|     |     |     |
 \   /       \   /         ← decrease to cuff
  | |         | |
  |_|         |_|          ← 2×2 rib cuff
```

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

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### SECTION 1: ROLL-NECK COLLAR

Using 3.75 mm circular needle (40 cm), cast on:
**84 / 92 / 96 / 104 / 112 sts**

*(Check: all numbers divisible by 4 ✓ — required for 2×2 structure if desired and for symmetrical raglan placement.)*

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a distinctive marker for beginning of round (BOR).

**Collar is worked in St st (knit every round) on 3.75 mm needle.**

Work even in St st until collar measures **18 cm (7 in)** from cast-on edge.

The cast-on edge will naturally curl outward toward you as you work — this is correct and desired.

*Optional short rows for front neck shaping (recommended for sizes M, L, XL and knitters with a longer front-to-back neck depth):*
*Before joining, work 6 short rows using the German short row method (or wrap and turn):*
- *Work to centre back (half of total sts).*
- *Turn. Work back across all front sts + 4 additional sts. Turn.*
- *Continue, working 4 additional sts each turn, for 3 turns each side.*
- *Resume working in the round after short rows are complete.*

---

### SECTION 2: TRANSITION TO BODY NEEDLE AND PLACE RAGLAN MARKERS

Change to 4.0 mm circular needle (80–100 cm).

Work 1 round plain knit to settle stitches onto new needle.

**Set-up round — place raglan markers:**

The raglan divides sts into: Left Sleeve / Front / Right Sleeve / Back.

Starting from BOR (which sits at left back raglan):

| Size | Back | Each Sleeve | Front | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 24 sts | 12 sts | 24 sts | 84 sts |
| S | 26 sts | 13 sts | 26 sts | 92 sts |
| M | 28 sts | 14 sts | 28 sts | 96 sts |
| L | 30 sts | 15 sts | 30 sts | 104 sts* |
| XL | 32 sts | 16 sts | 32 sts | 112 sts |

*Size L: 30 + 15 + 30 + 15 + 14 = 104 ✓ (back=30, sleeve=15, front=30, sleeve=15, remainder=14 — adjust: use back=30, sleeve=14, front=30, sleeve=14, total = 30+14+30+14+16? Recalculate: 104 ÷ 4 sections = 26 per section, distribute as back=28, front=28, each sleeve=24 — see below for corrected placement.)*

**Corrected set-up (all sizes):**

Distribute sts as follows around the needle, placing a raglan marker (RM) between each section:

| Size | Back sts | Left Sleeve sts | Front sts | Right Sleeve sts | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 26 | 10 | 26 | 10 | 84 - 8 (markers) — sts only: 26+10+26+10 = **72** → remaining 12 sts accounted as: back=26, front=26, sleeves=8 each = 84 ✓ **Wait — re-examine.** |

*Let me state this cleanly for the knitter:*

**Correct raglan set-up — divide stitches as follows:**

For seamless raglan, the standard approach is: approximately half the sts go to back and front combined, and the remaining to the sleeves. The sleeve sections start small and grow with yoke increases.

| Size | Back | Each Sleeve | Front | Total check |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 28 | 8 | 28 | 28+8+28+8 = **72** — short by 12. *Adjustment: CO 84 sts and add 12 to sections.* |

*Note to knitter: The stitch distribution at set-up does not need to be perfectly equal — the raglan increases correct the balance over the yoke. Use the following guide:*

**Set-up round — place markers:**

Starting from BOR:

**XS:** k22 (back), pm RM, k6 (sleeve), pm RM, k28 (front), pm RM, k6 (sleeve), pm RM, k22 (back to BOR) — wait, this doesn't reach BOR correctly.

---

*The cleanest approach for a top-down raglan — stated simply for the knitter:*

**RAGLAN MARKER PLACEMENT — REVISED:**

Work the set-up round as follows (starting from BOR):

| Size | Back | pm | Left Sleeve | pm | Front | pm | Right Sleeve | pm | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 26 | RM | 8 | RM | 26 | RM | 8 | RM | 68 + adjustment |

*The collar cast-on includes the eventual neck sts. For a clean raglan, use these set-up stitch counts:*

| Size | CO neck sts | Back | Each Sleeve | Front |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 84 | 26 | 8 | 26 |
| S | 92 | 28 | 10 | 28 |
| M | 96 | 30 | 10 | 30 |
| L | 104 | 32 | 12 | 32 |
| XL | 112 | 34 | 14 | 34 |

**Verify:** XS: 26+8+26+8 = 68 ≠ 84. Difference = 16. Extra sts added to back and front: 8 each → back 30, front 30, sleeves 8 each = 76 ≠ 84. Still 8 short. →  back=32, front=32, sleeves=10 each = 84 ✓

Let me recalculate cleanly:

| Size | CO | Back | Each Sleeve | Front | Check |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 84 | 32 | 10 | 32 | 32+10+32+10=84 ✓ |
| S | 92 | 34 | 12 | 34 | 34+12+34+12=92 ✓ |
| M | 96 | 36 | 12 | 36 | 36+12+36+12=96 ✓ |
| L | 104 | 40 | 12 | 40 | 40+12+40+12=104 ✓ |
| XL | 112 | 42 | 14 | 42 | 42+14+42+14=112 ✓ |

**Set-up round (all sizes):**

Starting at BOR:

Knit across back sts, pm (RM1), knit across left sleeve sts, pm (RM2), knit across front sts, pm (RM3), knit across right sleeve sts, pm (RM4 / BOR).

*(RM = raglan marker — use distinctive markers different from BOR.)*

---

### SECTION 3: YOKE — RAGLAN INCREASES

**Increase Round:**
*k to 1 st before RM, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L; repeat at each of the 4 raglan markers.* (8 sts increased per round)

**Plain Round:**
Knit all sts.

**Work as follows:**
Rep [Increase Round, Plain Round] until you have the required stitches:

| Size | Total sts at body separation | Back+Front (body) | Each sleeve |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 252 | 180 (90 each) | 36 each |
| S | 276 | 196 (98 each) | 42 each |
| M | 292 | 208 (104 each) | 42 each |
| L | 320 | 224 (112 each) | 48 each* |
| XL | 348 | 244 (122 each) | 52 each |

*Let me recalculate to ensure the body sts give the right finished circumference at underarm (with 8 underarm CO sts, total body = front + back + 16 underarm sts):*

**Target finished body circumference:**
XS = 82 cm → 82 cm × 22 sts/10 cm = 180.4 → **180 sts**
S = 92 cm → 92 × 2.2 = 202.4 → **202 sts**
M = 100 cm → 100 × 2.2 = 220 sts → **220 sts**
L = 108 cm → 108 × 2.2 = 237.6 → **238 sts**
XL = 118 cm → 118 × 2.2 = 259.6 → **260 sts**

Underarm CO = 8 sts per side = 16 sts total added to body.
So body sts at separation (before underarm CO):
XS: 180 - 16 = 164 body sts (82 front, 82 back)
S: 202 - 16 = 186 body sts (93 front, 93 back)
M: 220 - 16 = 204 body sts (102 front, 102 back)
L: 238 - 16 = 222 body sts (111 front, 111 back)
XL: 260 - 16 = 244 body sts (122 front, 122 back)

Now, each section starts and grows by 2 sts per raglan inc round. Starting back sts (= front sts for symmetry):

XS: back starts at 32, needs to reach 82. Increase by 50 → 25 increase rounds. Each sleeve starts at 10, after 25 increase rounds = 10 + 50 = 60 sleeve sts. Total at separation = 82+82+60+60+4(markers don't add sts) = 284. Let me re-examine.

Each raglan inc round adds: 2 sts to back, 2 sts to front, 2 sts to each sleeve = 8 total.

Starting total: 84. After n increase rounds: 84 + 8n.

**XS target body sts = 164.** Back = 32 + 2n = 82 → n = 25 increase rounds.
Sleeve sts = 10 + 2×25 = 60. Total = 84 + 8×25 = 284. Body = 82+82 = 164 ✓. Sleeves = 60+60 = 120.

**S target body sts = 186.** Back = 34 + 2n = 93 → n = 29.5 → round to 30 increase rounds. Back = 34+60=94, sleeve = 12+60=72. Body = 94+94=188 (slight adjustment, finished bust = (188+16)/2.2×10 = 93 cm — acceptable, within ease range). ✅

**M target body sts = 204.** Back = 36 + 2n = 102 → n = 33 increase rounds. Sleeve = 12+66=78. Body = 102+102=204 ✓. Total = 96 + 8×33 = 360.

**L target body sts = 222.** Back = 40 + 2n = 111 → n = 35.5 → 36 rounds. Back = 40+72=112, sleeve=12+72=84. Body=112+112=224. Finished bust = (224+16)/22×10 = 109 cm ✓ (within L range).

**XL target body sts = 244.** Back = 42 + 2n = 122 → n = 40. Sleeve = 14+80=94. Body=122+122=244 ✓.

**Finalised table:**

| Size | Inc rounds (n) | Back sts at sep. | Front sts at sep. | Sleeve sts each | Total yoke sts |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 25 | 82 | 82 | 60 | 284 |
| S | 30 | 94 | 94 | 72 | 332 |
| M | 33 | 102 | 102 | 78 | 360 |
| L | 36 | 112 | 112 | 84 | 392 |
| XL | 40 | 122 | 122 | 94 | 432 |

**Yoke depth** (approximate, based on increase rounds at 2-row repeat, 30 rows/10 cm):
Each repeat = 2 rounds. Total rounds = 2n.
XS: 50 rounds = 50/30 × 10 = 16.7 cm ≈ **17 cm (6.75 in)**
S: 60 rounds = 20 cm **(8 in)**
M: 66 rounds = 22 cm **(8.5 in)**
L: 72 rounds = 24 cm **(9.5 in)**
XL: 80 rounds = 26.7 cm ≈ **27 cm (10.5 in)**

*This is the yoke depth from the base of the collar to the underarm. Adjust if needed by measuring against your body.*

**Work the yoke as follows:**

Work [Increase Round, Plain Round] a total of **25 / 30 / 33 / 36 / 40** times.

After all increase rounds, you should have:
**284 / 332 / 360 / 392 / 432 sts** total.
**82 / 94 / 102 / 112 / 122 sts** each for back and front.
**60 / 72 / 78 / 84 / 94 sts** on each sleeve section.

Try on the sweater at this point if possible. The yoke should reach your underarm. If it feels short, work a few more plain rounds.

---

### SECTION 4: SEPARATE SLEEVES AND BODY

**Separation round:**

Work as follows:
1. Knit across **82 / 94 / 102 / 112 / 122 back sts**.
2. Remove RM, place next **60 / 72 / 78 / 84 / 94 sleeve sts** on waste yarn or stitch holder. Remove RM.
3. Using the backwards loop (e-wrap) or cable cast-on method, CO **8 sts** for left underarm.
4. Knit across **82 / 94 / 102 / 112 / 122 front sts**.
5. Remove RM, place next **60 / 72 / 78 / 84 / 94 sleeve sts** on waste yarn or stitch holder. Remove RM.
6. CO **8 sts** for right underarm.
7. Place BOR marker.

**Body stitch count:**
82+8+82+8 = **180 sts** (XS)
94+8+94+8 = **204 sts** (S)
102+8+102+8 = **220 sts** (M)
112+8+112+8 = **240 sts** (L)
122+8+122+8 = **260 sts** (XL)

**Verify finished bust:**
XS: 180 ÷ 22 × 10 = **81.8 cm ≈ 82 cm (32.5 in) ✓**
S: 204 ÷ 22 × 10 = **92.7 cm ≈ 93 cm (36.5 in) ✓**
M: 220 ÷ 22 × 10 = **100 cm (39.5 in) ✓**
L: 240 ÷ 22 × 10 = **109 cm (43 in) ✓**
XL: 260 ÷ 22 × 10 = **118 cm (46.5 in) ✓**

---

### SECTION 5: BODY

Join body stitches in the round. Work in St st (knit every round) on 4.0 mm needle.

**Work even until body measures:**
**25 / 25 / 27 / 27 / 29 cm (10 / 10 / 10.5 / 10.5 / 11.5 in)** from underarm.

*Tip: For a cropped silhouette, the hem should sit approximately 8–12 cm (3–5 in) above the hip. Try the sweater on and mark your preferred hemline before committing.*

---

**Hem Ribbing:**

Change to 3.5 mm needle.

Work **1×1 Rib** (k1, p1) for **3 cm (1.25 in)**.

Cast off using a stretchy method (recommended: Jeny's surprisingly stretchy cast-off, or k1, *k1, sl both sts back to left needle, k2tog through back loop; repeat from * to end).

---

### SECTION 6: BALLOON SLEEVES

*The balloon sleeve is worked in three phases:*
*Phase 1 — Upper sleeve: Increases create the balloon volume.*
*Phase 2 — Balloon peak: Work even briefly at maximum width.*
*Phase 3 — Lower sleeve: Decreases narrow the sleeve to a fitted cuff.*

Return held sleeve sts to 4.0 mm DPNs or circular (magic loop).

**Pick up underarm stitches:**
With RS facing and starting at centre of underarm cast-on, pick up and knit **8 sts** across underarm CO, then knit across the **60 / 72 / 78 / 84 / 94 sleeve sts**.

Place BOR marker at centre of underarm. Total sleeve sts:
**68 / 80 / 86 / 92 / 102 sts**

---

#### PHASE 1: BALLOON INCREASES (Upper Sleeve)

Work [Increase Round, Plain Round] throughout Phase 1.

**Increase Round:** k1, M1L, k to last st, M1R, k1. (2 sts increased per round)

*Alternatively: k to 1 st before BOR m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L. This places the increases symmetrically at the underarm seam line for a neat result.*

Work increase rounds until sleeve reaches these stitch counts:

| Size | Balloon max sts | Increases needed | Inc rounds |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 96 | 28 sts (14 rounds) | 14 |
| S | 110 | 30 sts (15 rounds) | 15 |
| M | 116 | 30 sts (15 rounds) | 15 |
| L | 122 | 30 sts (15 rounds) | 15 |
| XL | 130 | 28 sts (14 rounds) | 14 |

*All sizes work [Increase Round, Plain Round] = 2 rounds per increase. Total rounds in Phase 1:*
*XS/XL: 28 rounds ≈ 9.5 cm (3.75 in)*
*S/M/L: 30 rounds = 10 cm (4 in)*

---

#### PHASE 2: BALLOON PEAK (Work Even)

Work **6 rounds** even (plain St st) at maximum balloon width.
≈ **2 cm (0.75 in)**

---

#### PHASE 3: BALLOON DECREASES (Lower Sleeve)

**Decrease Round:** k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased per round)

Target cuff stitch count before ribbing:
**48 / 52 / 54 / 56 / 60 sts**

*(These numbers are divisible by 4 for 2×2 rib.)*

Sts to decrease:
| Size | Balloon sts | Target cuff sts | Sts to dec | Dec rounds needed |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 96 | 48 | 48 | 24 |
| S | 110 | 52 | 58 | 29 |
| M | 116 | 54 | 62 | 31 |
| L | 122 | 56 | 66 | 33 |
| XL | 130 | 60 | 70 | 35 |

*Work Decrease Round every **3rd round** (dec 1 round, plain 1 round, plain 1 round, repeat).*

Rows needed at every-3rd-round rate:
| Size | Dec rounds | Total rounds Phase 3 | Length Phase 3 |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 24 | 72 | 24 cm (9.5 in) |
| S | 29 | 87 | 29 cm (11.5 in) |
| M | 31 | 93 | 31 cm (12.5 in) |
| L | 33 | 99 | 33 cm (13 in) |
| XL | 35 | 105 | 35 cm (14 in) |

*Total sleeve length (Phases 1+2+3, excluding cuff ribbing):*
XS: 9.5 + 2 + 24 = **35.5 cm (14 in)**
S: 10 + 2 + 29 = **41 cm (16 in)**
M: 10 + 2 + 31 = **43 cm (17 in)**
L: 10 + 2 + 33 = **45 cm (17.5 in)**
XL: 9.5 + 2 + 35 = **46.5 cm (18.5 in)**

*These lengths are approximate. Try the sweater on after Phase 2 and adjust the rate of decrease in Phase 3 if needed:*
- *For a longer sleeve: decrease every 4th round.*
- *For a shorter sleeve: decrease every 2nd round.*

*Ensure you have the correct number of decrease rounds to reach your target cuff stitch count regardless of the rate used.*

---

#### RIBBED CUFF

You should now have **48 / 52 / 54 / 56 / 60 sts**.

*(If stitch count is not divisible by 4, work 1 k2tog on the final decrease round to adjust. Note in pattern: Size M 54 sts — this is divisible by 2 but not 4. Work one more dec round: 54 → 52 sts, divisible by 4 ✓. Or work 1×1 rib instead.)*

**Adjusted cuff stitch counts (all divisible by 4):**
**48 / 52 / 52 / 56 / 60 sts**

Change to 3.5 mm DPNs or circular.

Work **2×2 Rib** (k2, p2) for **6 cm (2.5 in)**.

Cast off using a stretchy method. Do not cast off tightly — cuffs must stretch over the hand.

---

### SECTION 7: FINISHING

**Underarm seams:**
Using a tapestry needle and mattress stitch or Kitchener stitch, close any gaps at the underarm join. Weave in all ends securely.

**Collar:**
Do not seam or block the collar flat. The roll is integral to the design.

*If the collar rolls too loosely and you prefer more structure, work the collar on 3.5 mm needles instead, or add 2 cm to the collar length.*

**Blocking:**
Wet block the body and sleeves following the yarn's fibre care instructions:
1. Soak in lukewarm water for 20–30 minutes.
2. Gently press out excess water in a towel — do not wring.
3. Lay flat and pin to measurements, shaping the balloon sleeve fullness.
4. Leave the collar to dry in its natural rolled state.

*Do not press with an iron directly. If using a steam iron, hold it 2 cm (1 in) above the fabric and steam gently.*

---

## SIZE CHART SUMMARY

| | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **To fit bust** | 72–76 cm | 80–86 cm | 88–94 cm | 96–102 cm | 104–112 cm |
| **Finished bust** | 82 cm | 93 cm | 100 cm | 109 cm | 118 cm |
| **Body length (underarm to hem)** | 28 cm | 28 cm | 30 cm | 30 cm | 32 cm |
| **Neck CO** | 84 sts | 92 sts | 96 sts | 104 sts | 112 sts |
| **Body sts at underarm** | 180 sts | 204 sts | 220 sts | 240 sts | 260 sts |
| **Raglan inc rounds** | 25 | 30 | 33 | 36 | 40 |
| **Sleeve sts at separation** | 60 | 72 | 78 | 84 | 94 |
| **Total sleeve sts (with underarm)** | 68 | 80 | 86 | 92 | 102 |
| **Balloon max sts** | 96 | 110 | 116 | 122 | 130 |
| **Cuff sts** | 48 | 52 | 52 | 56 | 60 |
| **Sleeve length (excl. cuff)** | ~35.5 cm | ~41 cm | ~43 cm | ~45 cm | ~46.5 cm |
| **Roll-neck length** | 18 cm | 18 cm | 18 cm | 18 cm | 18 cm |
| **Collar needle** | 3.75 mm | 3.75 mm | 3.75 mm | 3.75 mm | 3.75 mm |
| **Body needle** | 4.0 mm | 4.0 mm | 4.0 mm | 4.0 mm | 4.0 mm |
| **Cuff/hem needle** | 3.5 mm | 3.5 mm | 3.5 mm | 3.5 mm | 3.5 mm |

---

## DESIGNER NOTES

**On the roll-neck:** The natural stockinette curl creates a modern, effortless roll. The collar is worked on a smaller needle than the body to keep the roll neat and prevent flaring. If you prefer a tighter roll, work the collar section on 3.5 mm needles throughout.

**On the balloon sleeve:** The balloon effect is most dramatic in DK weight because the fabric drapes naturally without becoming stiff. Using a merino or merino-blend yarn enhances the softness and drape of the balloon. For an even puffier effect, increase for 2–4 more rounds in Phase 1 and compensate with additional decrease rounds in Phase 3.

**On the cropped length:** The pattern gives a hemline approximately 8–12 cm (3–5 in) above the hip. If you have a longer torso or prefer the sweater to just graze the hip, add 4–6 cm to the body length before the hem ribbing. Do not adjust the hem ribbing length — this would change the visual proportion.

**On wearing:** This sweater is designed to be worn with the collar rolled over approximately twice, creating a generous double roll at the neckline. The collar can also be worn straight up as a high roll-neck if preferred, adding extra warmth in winter.

---

*Pattern designed for advanced knitters. Techniques required: working in the round, top-down raglan construction, magic loop or DPNs for sleeves, M1L/M1R increases, ssk/k2tog decreases, stretchy cast-off.*

*© All rights reserved. For personal use only. Not for resale or redistribution.*

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