purlJam

<pattern>

# DEEP V-NECK RAGLAN SWEATER WITH ARGYLE DETAIL

**Skill Level:** Intermediate

**Overview:** This sophisticated top-down raglan pullover features a deep V-neckline with decorative eyelet detailing along the raglan lines. The body is worked seamlessly in stockinette stitch in rich olive green, with striking argyle diamond patterns adorning both the hem and cuffs. The argyle is worked in tan and dark green with brown accents, finished with white duplicate stitch cross-lines for authentic argyle styling.

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** DK weight yarn (light worsted, #3)
- **MC (Main Color - Olive Green):** 1000 (1100, 1250, 1400, 1550) yards
- **CC1 (Tan):** 100 (110, 120, 130, 140) yards
- **CC2 (Dark Green):** 100 (110, 120, 130, 140) yards
- **CC3 (Brown):** 50 (55, 60, 65, 70) yards
- **CC4 (White):** 30 (35, 40, 45, 50) yards for duplicate stitch

**Needles:**
- US 5 (3.75 mm) 24" or longer circular needle for ribbing
- US 6 (4.0 mm) 24" or longer circular needle (and DPNs or longer circular for magic loop for sleeves) for main body
- Or size needed to obtain gauge

**Notions:**
- 6 stitch markers (4 in one color for raglan lines, 1 different color for BOR, 1 for center front V)
- Stitch holders or waste yarn
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape

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## GAUGE

**22 stitches × 30 rows = 4 inches** in stockinette stitch on larger needles, blocked

**Take time to check your gauge.** Gauge is critical for proper fit.

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## SIZES

Sizes: S (M, L, XL, 2XL)

**Finished Bust Circumference:** 35 (39, 43, 47, 51)" with 1" positive ease
- Designed to fit bust: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50)"

**Key Measurements:**
- **Yoke Depth (neck to underarm):** 8.5 (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5)"
- **Body Length (underarm to hem):** 15.5 (16, 16, 16.5, 16.5)"
- **Total Length:** 24 (25, 25.5, 26.5, 27)"
- **Sleeve Length (underarm to cuff):** 17 (17.5, 18, 18, 18.5)"
- **Upper Arm Circumference:** 12 (13, 14, 15, 16)"

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- **BOR** = beginning of round
- **CC** = contrast color
- **k** = knit
- **k2tog** = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **kfb** = knit into front and back of stitch (increase)
- **m** = marker
- **M1L** = make 1 left (lift bar between stitches from front to back, knit through back loop)
- **M1R** = make 1 right (lift bar between stitches from back to front, knit through front loop)
- **MC** = main color
- **p** = purl
- **pm** = place marker
- **rep** = repeat
- **rnd(s)** = round(s)
- **RS** = right side
- **sl m** = slip marker
- **ssk** = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **yo** = yarn over

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## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Eyelet Raglan Increase
At each raglan marker: yo, k1, yo (creates 2 new stitches and decorative eyelet)

### Duplicate Stitch
After completing argyle colorwork, use CC4 (White) and tapestry needle to work diagonal lines across diamonds following chart for authentic argyle cross-lines.

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## PATTERN NOTES

- This sweater is worked **top-down seamlessly in the round** beginning at the V-neck.
- The **deep V-neck** is shaped by starting with minimal stitches at the point and increasing at center front while simultaneously working raglan increases.
- **Eyelet raglan lines** are created using yarn overs on increase rounds, creating a decorative detail.
- The **argyle pattern** appears at the hem (3.5" height) and at the cuffs. It is worked in stranded colorwork, then finished with white duplicate stitch for the characteristic diagonal cross-lines.
- **Brown accents** (CC3) are worked as small pips within the argyle diamonds.
- The body is worked to **hip length** (approximately 15.5-16.5" from underarm).
- When working colorwork sections, carry floats loosely on wrong side.

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### YOKE

**Cast On and Setup for Deep V-Neck**

With MC and smaller needles, **cast on 3 sts**.

**Row 1 (RS):** K1, pm (center front V marker), k2.

**Row 2 (WS):** P1, M1L, sl m, M1R, p2. [5 sts]

**Row 3:** K2, sl m, k3.

**Row 4:** P2, M1L, sl m, M1R, p3. [7 sts]

**Row 5:** K3, sl m, k4.

**Row 6:** P3, M1L, sl m, M1R, p4. [9 sts]

Continue in this manner (working M1L before center marker and M1R after on WS rows) until you have **31 (33, 35, 37, 39) sts**, ending with a WS row.

**Next Row (RS - Join Round):** This is where we establish the raglan lines.

K to center marker, remove center marker, pm for BOR (beginning of round - use different color), continue working in the round.

**Setup Round for Raglan Lines:**
- K3 (4, 4, 5, 5) [left front], pm, k1 [raglan stitch], pm, k7 (7, 8, 8, 9) [left sleeve], pm, k1 [raglan stitch], pm, k9 (10, 11, 12, 13) [back], pm, k1 [raglan stitch], pm, k7 (7, 8, 8, 9) [right sleeve], pm, k1 [raglan stitch], pm, k3 (4, 4, 5, 5) [right front].

**Stitch Count Verification:** 
- S: 3 + 1 + 7 + 1 + 9 + 1 + 7 + 1 + 3 = 33 sts (using 2 extra sts from continued V increases)
- Adjust as needed to match: 6 (8, 8, 10, 10) front / 7 (7, 8, 8, 9) sleeve / 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) back / 7 (7, 8, 8, 9) sleeve sections

**Corrected Setup:**
Total after V-shaping: 31 (33, 35, 37, 39) sts

Distribute as:
- **S:** 6 front, 7 sleeve, 9 back, 7 sleeve = 29 sts + 2 extra for continuing V = 31 sts
- **M:** 8 front, 7 sleeve, 10 back, 7 sleeve = 32 sts + 1 for V = 33 sts
- **L:** 8 front, 8 sleeve, 11 back, 8 sleeve = 35 sts
- **XL:** 10 front, 8 sleeve, 12 back, 8 sleeve = 38 sts (need 37, adjust front to 9)
- **2XL:** 10 front, 9 sleeve, 13 back, 9 sleeve = 41 sts (need 39, adjust front to 8)

**Actual Setup Distribution (including 4 raglan stitches):**

Place markers as follows:
- K3 (4, 4, 4, 4), pm, k1, pm [left front + raglan]
- K5 (5, 6, 6, 7), pm, k1, pm [left sleeve + raglan]  
- K9 (10, 11, 11, 13), pm, k1, pm [back + raglan]
- K5 (5, 6, 6, 7), pm, k1, pm [right sleeve + raglan]
- K3 (4, 4, 4, 4) [right front]

Total check: 3+1+5+1+9+1+5+1+3 = 29 sts (Size S - add 2 during next V increases)

### YOKE SHAPING

Switch to larger needles.

**Round 1 (Increase Round - Eyelet Raglan):**
*K to raglan m, yo, sl m, k1, sl m, yo; rep from * 3 more times, k to end of round.

This adds 8 sts per increase round (2 sts at each of 4 raglan lines).

**Round 2:** Knit all sts.

**For Sizes S and M only:** Also continue V-neck increases at BOR for first 6 (4) more rounds:
- At BOR: M1R, work round as written, M1L at end of round before BOR

Repeat Rounds 1-2 a total of **32 (34, 36, 38, 40)** times.

**Stitch Count After Raglan Increases:**

Starting sts: 31 (33, 35, 37, 39)
V-neck increases (S, M only): +12 (+8, 0, 0, 0)
Raglan increases: +(32 × 8) = +256; (34 × 8) = +272; (36 × 8) = +288; (38 × 8) = +304; (40 × 8) = +320

**Total Yoke Sts:** 299 (313, 323, 341, 359)

**Distribution:**
- **Front:** 3+6+32 = 41; 4+4+34 = 42; (4+36 = 40); (4+38 = 42); (4+40 = 44) × 2 sections = 82 (84, 80, 84, 88) total front
- **Back:** 9+32 = 41; 10+34 = 44; (11+36 = 47); (11+38 = 49); (13+40 = 53)
- **Each Sleeve:** 5+32 = 37; 5+34 = 39; (6+36 = 42); (6+38 = 44); (7+40 = 47)
- **Plus 4 raglan sts**

Let me recalculate more carefully:

**Size S Example:**
- Start: 3 front + 1 raglan + 5 sleeve + 1 raglan + 9 back + 1 raglan + 5 sleeve + 1 raglan + 3 front = 29 sts
- Add V increases: +12 sts at front = 41 sts total (15 front, 9 back, 5 each sleeve, 4 raglan sts, 3 at other front sections)
- Better: Starting 31 sts, add 12 V-increases = 43 sts, add 256 raglan increases = 299 sts

**After all increases, stitch distribution should be:**

| Section | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---------|---|---|---|----|----|
| Front Total | 83 | 87 | 89 | 93 | 97 |
| Back | 67 | 71 | 75 |