purlJam

<pattern>

# DRAPING COWL RAGLAN SWEATER

## DESIGN DETAILS
A luxurious top-down raglan pullover featuring a deep, draping cowl neck and elegant graduated ribbing at the hem and cuffs. Worked seamlessly in the round with fingering weight yarn held together with lace mohair for a soft, flowing fabric with beautiful drape. The unique three-stage ribbing creates visual interest and a snug finish.

**Skill Level**: Intermediate

**Sizes**: S (M, L, XL, 2XL)

**Finished Bust Circumference**: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)" / 96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137) cm
*Designed to be worn with 2-4" / 5-10 cm positive ease*

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: 
- **Main Yarn (MC)**: Fingering weight yarn, approx 1200 (1400, 1600, 1800, 2000) yards / 1100 (1280, 1465, 1645, 1830) m
- **Held Together**: Lace weight mohair, approx 1200 (1400, 1600, 1800, 2000) yards / 1100 (1280, 1465, 1645, 1830) m

*Note: Both yarns are held together throughout the entire project*

**Needles**: 
- US 4 (3.5 mm) 24" and 32" circular needles (for body and sleeves)
- US 3 (3.25 mm) 24" and 32" circular needles (for ribbing)
- Or size needed to obtain gauge

**Notions**:
- 4 stitch markers (1 unique for BOR)
- 2 stitch holders or waste yarn for sleeves
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

---

## GAUGE

**24 sts × 32 rows = 4" / 10 cm** in stockinette stitch with larger needles and both yarns held together, blocked

*Note: Gauge is given over 4" for accuracy. This equals 6 sts/inch and 8 rows/inch.*

⚠️ **Gauge is critical for proper fit. Take time to swatch and measure carefully.**

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Size | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|------|---|---|---|----|----|
| **Finished Bust** | 38" | 42" | 46" | 50" | 54" |
| **Body Length** (from underarm) | 14" | 14.5" | 15" | 15.5" | 16" |
| **Total Length** (from shoulder) | 21" | 22" | 23" | 24" | 25" |
| **Cowl Depth** | 6" | 6.5" | 7" | 7.5" | 8" |
| **Raglan Depth** | 7" | 7.5" | 8" | 8.5" | 9" |
| **Sleeve Length** | 17.5" | 17.5" | 17.5" | 17.5" | 17.5" |
| **Upper Arm Circumference** | 12" | 13" | 14" | 15" | 16" |
| **Cuff Circumference** | 7" | 7.5" | 8" | 8.5" | 9" |

---

## STITCH GLOSSARY

- **BOR**: Beginning of round
- **k**: knit
- **p**: purl
- **pm**: place marker
- **sm**: slip marker
- **m1L**: make 1 left (lift strand between stitches from front to back, knit through back loop)
- **m1R**: make 1 right (lift strand between stitches from back to front, knit through front loop)
- **k2tog**: knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk**: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **st(s)**: stitch(es)

---

## PATTERN NOTES

### Construction
This sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down. The cowl neck is worked first, then raglan increases shape the yoke. Sleeves are separated from the body at the underarm and placed on hold. The body is worked in the round to the hem, finishing with graduated ribbing. Sleeves are worked in the round with regular decreases, ending with the same graduated ribbing pattern.

### Raglan Increases
Increases are worked every other round at 4 raglan lines (8 sts increased per increase round):
- Before each marker: m1L
- After each marker: m1R

### Graduated Ribbing Pattern
The hem and cuffs feature a unique three-stage ribbing:

**Stage 1** (0.5-0.75" / 1-2 cm): K1, P3 Rib
- Multiple of 4 sts
- All rounds: *K1, p3; repeat from * to end

**Stage 2** (0.5-0.75" / 1-2 cm): K1, P1, K1, P3 Pattern  
- Multiple of 6 sts
- All rounds: *K1, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * to end

**Stage 3** (4 cm / 1.5"): K1, P1 Rib
- Multiple of 2 sts
- All rounds: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end

**Total Ribbing Height**: Approximately 2.5" / 6 cm

### Adjustments
- **Body Length**: Adjust length before beginning graduated ribbing
- **Sleeve Length**: Adjust length before beginning graduated ribbing
- **Cowl Depth**: Adjustable; work more or fewer rounds before beginning raglan increases

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### COWL NECK

With larger 24" circular needle and both yarns held together, cast on **180 (192, 204, 216, 228) sts** using the long-tail cast-on method.

**Stitch Count Check**: 180 (192, 204, 216, 228) sts ✓

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place BOR marker.

**Rounds 1-48 (48, 52, 56, 60)**: Knit all sts.

*The cowl will measure approximately 6 (6.5, 7, 7.5, 8)" from cast-on edge.*

---

### RAGLAN YOKE SETUP

**Setup Round**: Establish raglan sections:

1. K **40 (42, 45, 48, 51)** sts (Left Front)
2. pm, k **18 (20, 21, 22, 23)** sts (Left Sleeve), pm
3. K **64 (68, 72, 76, 80)** sts (Back)
4. pm, k **18 (20, 21, 22, 23)** sts (Right Sleeve), pm
5. K **40 (42, 45, 48, 51)** sts (Right Front) to BOR marker

**Stitch Count Check**: 
- Front: 80 (84, 90, 96, 102) sts [40+40] ✓
- Back: 64 (68, 72, 76, 80) sts ✓
- Each Sleeve: 18 (20, 21, 22, 23) sts ✓
- **Total**: 180 (192, 204, 216, 228) sts ✓

### RAGLAN INCREASES

**Increase Round**: *Knit to 1 st before marker, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L; repeat from * 3 more times, knit to end of round.

*8 sts increased*

**Next Round**: Knit all sts.

Repeat these 2 rounds **27 (29, 31, 33, 35) more times**.

**Total Increase Rounds**: 28 (30, 32, 34, 36)

**After all increases, stitch counts**:

| Section | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---------|---|---|---|----|----|
| **Front** | 136 | 144 | 154 | 164 | 174 |
| **Back** | 120 | 128 | 136 | 144 | 152 |
| **Each Sleeve** | 74 | 80 | 85 | 90 | 95 |
| **TOTAL** | 404 | 432 | 460 | 488 | 516 |

**Math Verification for Size M**:
- Front: 84 + (30 × 2) = 84 + 60 = 144 sts ✓
- Back: 68 + (30 × 2) = 68 + 60 = 128 sts ✓
- Each Sleeve: 20 + (30 × 2) = 20 + 60 = 80 sts ✓
- Total: 144 + 128 + 80 + 80 = 432 sts ✓

*Raglan depth measures approximately 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)" from cowl neck.*

---

### SEPARATE SLEEVES

**Next Round**: 
1. K **136 (144, 154, 164, 174)** Front sts
2. Remove marker, place next **74 (80, 85, 90, 95)** Left Sleeve sts on holder or waste yarn, remove marker
3. Using backward loop cast-on, cast on **8 (8, 10, 10, 12)** underarm sts, pm for new side "seam" (optional)
4. K **120 (128, 136, 144, 152)** Back sts
5. Remove marker, place next **74 (80, 85, 90, 95)** Right Sleeve sts on holder, remove marker
6. Cast on **8 (8, 10, 10, 12)** underarm sts
7. Knit to BOR

**Body Stitch Count**: 272 (288, 310, 328, 350) sts

**Calculation Check for Size M**: 144 + 8 + 128 + 8 = 288 sts ✓

---

### BODY

Continue working in the round in stockinette stitch (knit every round) until body measures **11.5 (12, 12.5, 13, 13.5)"** from underarm, or 2.5" less than desired finished length.

Switch to smaller 32" circular needle.

### BODY HEM - GRADUATED RIBBING

**Stage 1: K1, P3 Rib** (0.5-0.75" / 1-2 cm)

*Adjust stitch count to multiple of 4 if necessary:*
- S: 272 sts (already divisible by 4) ✓
- M: 288 sts (already divisible by 4) ✓
- L: Decrease 2 sts evenly = 308 sts (divisible by