purlJam

<pattern>

# DIAMOND LINES RAGLAN SWEATER

**A seamless top-down raglan pullover featuring eyelet raglan shaping and classic argyle diamonds at the hem and cuffs**

## DESIGN NOTES

This intermediate sweater combines elegant eyelet raglan lines with a sophisticated argyle diamond pattern worked in colorwork. The sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down with no seaming required. The main body features stockinette stitch in black, while teal and grey argyle diamonds dance around the hem and sleeve cuffs. White duplicate stitch lines create the classic argyle grid after knitting is complete.

**Skill Level**: Intermediate  
**Fit**: Close-fitting with 1" positive ease

## SIZES

Small (Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X-Large)

**Finished Bust Circumference**: 35 (39, 43, 47, 51)" / 89 (99, 109, 119, 130) cm  
**To fit bust sizes**: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50)" / 86 (97, 107, 117, 127) cm

**Sample shown**: Size Medium

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
- **Main Color (MC - Black)**: Approximately 900 (1050, 1200, 1400, 1600) yards DK weight merino wool OR 1800 (2100, 2400, 2800, 3200) yards fingering weight merino wool
- **MC - Black**: Approximately 450 (525, 600, 700, 800) yards lace weight suri silk blend
- **Contrast Color 1 (CC1 - Teal)**: 50 (60, 70, 80, 90) yards DK weight OR 100 (120, 140, 160, 180) yards fingering weight
- **Contrast Color 1 (CC1 - Teal)**: 25 (30, 35, 40, 45) yards lace weight suri silk
- **Contrast Color 2 (CC2 - Grey)**: 50 (60, 70, 80, 90) yards DK weight OR 100 (120, 140, 160, 180) yards fingering weight  
- **Contrast Color 2 (CC2 - Grey)**: 25 (30, 35, 40, 45) yards lace weight suri silk
- **Contrast Color 3 (CC3 - White)**: 30 (35, 40, 45, 50) yards DK weight for duplicate stitch

**NOTE**: Throughout the pattern, hold one strand of DK/fingering weight merino together with one strand of lace weight suri silk to create the fabric.

### Needles
- US 6 (4 mm) 16" and 32" circular needles, or size needed to obtain gauge
- US 6 (4 mm) double-pointed needles or preferred method for small circumferences
- US 4 (3.5 mm) 16" and 32" circular needles for ribbing
- US 4 (3.5 mm) double-pointed needles for ribbing

### Notions
- 4 stitch markers (1 unique for BOR)
- 4 additional markers for raglan lines
- Scrap yarn or stitch holders for sleeves
- Tapestry needle
- Locking stitch markers (optional, helpful for trying on)

## GAUGE

**20 stitches and 28 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch with one strand DK/fingering and one strand lace held together on larger needles, worked in the round, after blocking**

**20 stitches and 28 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in argyle colorwork pattern on larger needles, worked in the round, after blocking**

**Gauge is critical for proper fit.** Take time to swatch and measure accurately. Swatch should be at least 6" square, worked in the round, and blocked before measuring.

## PATTERN NOTES

### Construction
This sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down. Begin with a crew neckline, work raglan increases with an eyelet pattern to create the yoke, separate the sleeves from the body at the underarm, then work the body and sleeves separately in the round. The argyle pattern is worked in stranded colorwork at the hem and cuffs, with white duplicate stitch lines added after completion.

### Techniques Used
- Raglan increases with eyelet shaping
- Working in the round
- Stranded colorwork
- M1L (Make 1 Left): Insert left needle from front to back under strand between stitches, knit through back loop
- M1R (Make 1 Right): Insert left needle from back to front under strand between stitches, knit through front loop
- Duplicate stitch embroidery
- Separating body and sleeves
- Sleeve decreases

### Raglan Eyelet Increase Pattern
The eyelet raglan increases are worked every other round as follows:
- **Round 1 (Increase Round)**: *Work to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, sm, k1, yo; repeat from * at each of 4 raglan markers, work to end of round
- **Round 2**: Knit all stitches (knit the yarn overs)

This creates 8 stitches increased every 2 rounds (2 stitches at each of 4 raglan lines).

### Reading Charts
- Charts are read from right to left, from bottom to top
- Each square represents one stitch
- Work chart repeats as indicated
- For working in the round, read all rounds from right to left
- Use stranded colorwork technique, carrying unused color loosely across wrong side

### Duplicate Stitch
After completing all knitting and weaving in ends from colorwork, use CC3 (White) to work duplicate stitch diagonal lines across the argyle diamonds following the Duplicate Stitch Diagram.

## MEASUREMENTS

| Size | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|------|---|---|---|----|----|
| **Finished Bust** | 35" | 39" | 43" | 47" | 51" |
| **Body Length (underarm to hem)** | 14.5" | 15" | 15.5" | 16" | 16.5" |
| **Yoke Depth (neck to underarm)** | 7.5" | 8" | 8.5" | 9" | 9.5" |
| **Sleeve Length (underarm to cuff)** | 17" | 17.5" | 18" | 18.5" | 19" |
| **Upper Arm Circumference** | 11" | 12" | 13" | 14.5" | 16" |
| **Cuff Circumference** | 7" | 7.5" | 8" | 8.5" | 9" |

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### NECKBAND

With smaller 16" circular needle and MC (one strand DK/fingering + one strand lace held together), cast on 80 (84, 88, 92, 96) stitches using the long-tail cast on. Place BOR marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.

**Setup Round**: *K2, p2; repeat from * around.

Work in k2, p2 ribbing for 1" (2.5 cm), approximately 7 rounds.

**Math Check - Neckband**: 
- S: 80 sts ÷ 4 st repeat = 20 repeats ✓
- M: 84 sts ÷ 4 st repeat = 21 repeats ✓
- L: 88 sts ÷ 4 st repeat = 22 repeats ✓
- XL: 92 sts ÷ 4 st repeat = 23 repeats ✓
- 2XL: 96 sts ÷ 4 st repeat = 24 repeats ✓

### YOKE SETUP

Switch to larger 16" circular needle.

**Setup Round**: K20 (21, 22, 23, 24) for front, pm for raglan, k10 (11, 12, 13, 14) for right sleeve, pm for raglan, k20 (21, 22, 23, 24) for back, pm for raglan, k10 (11, 12, 13, 14) for left sleeve, pm for raglan, pm for BOR (if not already marked).

**Stitch Distribution Check**:
- Front: 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) sts
- Right Sleeve: 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) sts
- Back: 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) sts
- Left Sleeve: 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) sts
- **Total**: 60 (64, 68, 72, 76) sts ✓ [Note: We have 80, 84, 88, 92, 96 sts from neckband]

**CORRECTION - Setup Round**: 
K20 (21, 22, 23, 24) for front, pm for raglan, k20 (21, 22, 23, 24) for right sleeve, pm for raglan, k20 (21, 22, 23, 24) for back, pm for raglan, k20 (21, 22, 23, 24) for left sleeve, pm for raglan.

**Corrected Stitch Distribution**:
- Each section: 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) sts
- **Total**: 80 (84, 88, 92, 96) sts ✓

### RAGLAN YOKE

Work eyelet raglan increases as follows:

**Round 1 (Increase Round)**: *Knit to 1 st before raglan marker, yo, k1, sm, k1, yo; repeat from * at each of 4 raglan markers (8 sts increased) — 88 (92, 96, 100, 104) sts

**Round 2**: Knit all stitches.

Repeat Rounds 1-2 a total of 52 (58, 64, 70, 76) times.

**Raglan Increase Math**:
- Starting sts: 80 (84, 88, 92, 96)
- Increases: 52 (58, 64, 70, 76) × 8 sts = 416 (464, 512, 560, 608) sts increased
- **Ending stitch count**: 496 (548, 600, 652, 704) sts

**Stitch Distribution After Raglan Increases**:
- Front: 20 + (52×2) = 124 (21 + 58×2 = 137, 22 + 64×2 = 150, 23 + 70×2 = 163, 24 + 76×2 = 176) sts
- Right Sleeve: 20 + (52×2) = 124 (21 + 58×2 = 137, 22 + 64×2 = 150, 23 + 70×2 = 163, 24 + 76×2 = 176) sts
- Back: 20 + (52×2) = 124 (21 + 58×2 = 137, 22 + 64×2 = 150, 23 + 70×2 = 163, 24 + 76×2 = 176) sts
- Left Sleeve: 20 + (52×2) = 124 (21 + 58×2 = 137, 22 + 64×2 = 150, 23 + 70×2 = 163, 24 + 76×2 = 176) sts

**Total sts**: 496 (548, 600, 652, 704) sts ✓

**Yoke Depth Check**:
- Rounds worked: 52 (58, 64, 70, 76) × 2 = 104 (116, 128, 140, 152) rounds
- At 28 rounds/4", depth = 104÷28×4 = 14.9" (116÷28×4 = 16.6", 128÷28×4 = 18.3", 140÷28×4 = 20", 152÷28×4 = 21.7")

**RECALCULATION NEEDED** - These depths are too long for yoke.

**CORRECTED Raglan Increases**:

Work Rounds 1-2 a total of 26 (28, 30, 33, 36) times.

**Corrected Math**:
- Starting: 80 (84, 88, 92, 96) sts
- Increases: 26 (28, 30, 33, 36) × 8 = 208 (224, 240, 264, 288) sts
- **Ending**: 288 (308, 328, 356, 384) sts

**Corrected Stitch Distribution**:
- Front: 20 + 52 = 72 (21 + 56 = 77, 22 + 60 = 82, 23 + 66 = 89, 24 + 72 = 96) sts
- Right Sleeve: 20 + 52 = 72 (21 + 56 = 77, 22 + 60 = 82, 23 + 66 = 89, 24 + 72 = 96) sts
- Back: 20 + 52 = 72 (21 +