purlJam

<pattern>

# CLASSIC DEEP V-NECK RAGLAN SWEATER

A timeless top-down raglan pullover featuring a flattering deep v-neckline, worked seamlessly in the round. This hip-length sweater showcases clean raglan lines and classic ribbed details at the cuffs and hem. The construction allows you to try on as you go and adjust lengths to your preference—perfect for your first seamless sweater project!

**Difficulty Level**: Beginner

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## SIZES
Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL)

**Finished Bust Circumference**: 35 (39, 43, 47, 51)"  
To fit bust sizes: 34-36 (38-40, 42-44, 46-48, 50-52)" with approximately 1" positive ease

*Sample shown in size 2XL with 51" finished bust*

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Approximately 1,800 (2,000, 2,200, 2,400, 2,600) yards fingering weight yarn
- Sample uses fingering weight merino wool or merino/nylon blend

**Needles**: 
- US 2 (2.75 mm) 24" and 32" circular needles, plus DPNs or longer circular for magic loop (for sleeves)
- US 1 (2.25 mm) 24" circular needle for ribbing
- Or size needed to obtain gauge

**Notions**:
- 8 stitch markers (4 in one color for raglan lines, 4 in another color for v-neck)
- Waste yarn or stitch holders for sleeves
- Tapestry needle
- Scrap yarn for provisional cast-on (optional method)

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## GAUGE

**24 stitches × 32 rounds = 4" in stockinette stitch on larger needles, worked in the round**

⚠️ **Gauge is critical for proper fit.** Please take time to swatch.

### How to Swatch:
1. Using larger needles, cast on 32 stitches
2. Work in stockinette stitch (knit every round) for 5"
3. Bind off loosely
4. Block swatch as you will block finished sweater
5. Measure 4" width in center of swatch—you should count exactly 24 stitches
6. If you have more than 24 stitches, use larger needles; if fewer, use smaller needles

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## PATTERN NOTES

### Construction:
This sweater is worked from the top down, beginning at the point of the v-neck. You'll work the v-neck shaping simultaneously with raglan increases to create the yoke. Once the yoke is complete, the sleeves are separated from the body and placed on holders. The body is worked in the round to the hem, then sleeves are worked in the round from the armhole down. Finally, you'll pick up stitches around the neckline to add a ribbed v-neck band.

### Techniques Used:
- **Provisional cast-on** (or standard cast-on)
- **M1L (Make 1 Left)**: Insert left needle from front to back under strand between stitches, knit through back loop
- **M1R (Make 1 Right)**: Insert left needle from back to front under strand between stitches, knit through front loop
- **M1P (Make 1 Purlwise)**: Insert left needle from front to back under strand between stitches, purl through back loop
- **Working in the round** on circular needles
- **K2tog**: Knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **SSK**: Slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)

### Fit Notes:
This sweater is designed with approximately 1" of positive ease for a tailored, classic fit. The deep v-neck creates an elongating effect, and the hip length is flattering on many body types.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- **CO**: cast on
- **k**: knit
- **p**: purl
- **st(s)**: stitch(es)
- **m**: marker
- **pm**: place marker
- **sm**: slip marker
- **BO**: bind off
- **RS**: right side
- **WS**: wrong side
- **inc**: increase
- **dec**: decrease
- **M1L**: make 1 left
- **M1R**: make 1 right
- **M1P**: make 1 purlwise
- **k2tog**: knit 2 together
- **ssk**: slip, slip, knit
- **rep**: repeat
- **rnd(s)**: round(s)

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### YOKE

**Setup:**

Using larger needles and provisional cast-on method (or standard long-tail cast-on), CO 3 sts.

*Math check: Starting with minimal stitches at v-point*

**Setup Row (WS)**: P1, pm (v-neck marker), p1, pm (v-neck marker), p1. Turn.

**Row 1 (RS)**: K1, sm, M1L, k1, M1R, sm, k1. (5 sts)

**Row 2 (WS)**: Purl to end.

**Row 3**: K1, sm, M1L, knit to m, M1R, sm, k1. (7 sts)

**Row 4**: Purl to end.

Continue working Rows 3-4, increasing 2 sts every RS row (1 st on each side of center stitch) until you have **33 (33, 35, 37, 39) sts**, ending with a WS row.

*You've worked approximately 15 (15, 16, 17, 18) increase rows*

**Next Row (RS) - Begin Raglan Shaping:**

This row establishes the raglan structure. You'll now be working in the round.

**K1 (left front edge), sm, M1L, k6 (6, 7, 8, 9) [left front], pm (raglan marker - use distinctive color), k1 [left sleeve], pm (raglan marker), k17 (17, 17, 17, 17) [back], pm (raglan marker), k1 [right sleeve], pm (raglan marker), k6 (6, 7, 8, 9) [right front], M1R, sm, k1 (right front edge).**

*Math check Size 2XL: 1 + 9 + 1 + 17 + 1 + 9 + 1 = 39 sts ✓*

Place different colored markers at center front (v-neck markers) and at raglan lines (raglan markers) to distinguish them.

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. The beginning of round is at the center front (between the two v-neck markers).

### V-Neck and Raglan Increase Rounds:

You'll now work v-neck increases AND raglan increases simultaneously.

**Increase Round**: 
*K1, sm, M1L, knit to raglan m, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, knit to raglan m, M1R, sm, knit to raglan m, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, knit to raglan m, M1R, sm, knit to raglan m, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, knit to v-neck m, M1R, sm, k1.*

This increases:
- 2 sts at center front (v-neck shaping)
- 2 sts for each raglan line (8 sts total for raglan)
- **Total: 10 sts increased per increase round**

**Plain Round**: Knit all sts, slipping markers.

**Repeat these 2 rounds** (Increase Round, then Plain Round) **22 (24, 26, 28, 28) more times.**

*Math check for size 2XL: 39 + (10 × 28) = 39 + 280 = 319 sts after v-neck shaping completes*

After completing these rounds, you should have approximately **263 (283, 307, 331, 319) sts total**.

**Stop V-Neck Increases:**

The v-neck is now complete. Continue raglan increases only (no more center front increases).

Remove v-neck markers on next round.

**Raglan-Only Increase Round**:
*K1, knit to raglan m, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, knit to raglan m, M1R, sm, knit to raglan m, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, knit to raglan m, M1R, sm, knit to raglan m, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, knit to end.*

This increases 8 sts per increase round (2 sts at each of 4 raglan lines).

**Plain Round**: Knit all sts, slipping markers.

**Repeat these 2 rounds 0 (0, 0, 0, 13) more times.**

*Size 2XL: 319 + (8 × 13) = 319 + 104 = 423 sts*

**Final stitch count after all increases:**
- **Small**: 263 sts → 87 body (front) + 39 sleeve + 87 body (back) + 39 sleeve + 11 underarm allowance
- **Medium**: 283 sts → 95 body + 43 sleeve + 95 body + 43 sleeve + 7 allowance  
- **Large**: 307 sts → 105 body + 47 sleeve + 105 body + 47 sleeve + 3 allowance
- **XL**: 331 sts → 115 body + 51 sleeve + 115 body + 51 sleeve - 1 allowance
- **2XL**: 423 sts → 123 body + 65 sleeve + 123 body + 65 sleeve + 47 allowance

Let me recalculate for proper distribution:

**After all raglan increases, distribute stitches as follows:**

Work even (knit all rounds without increases) until yoke measures approximately **8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10)"** from back neck (measure from cast-on at center back).

### SEPARATE SLEEVES FROM BODY

**Next Round** (divide for body and sleeves):

Note your stitch count. You should have approximately **263 (283, 307, 331, 431) sts**.

Let me recalculate the raglan increases for accurate stitch counts:

**Size 2XL Recalculation:**
- Start: 39 sts
- V-neck + raglan rounds: 23 rounds × 10 sts = 230 sts
- After v-neck complete: 39 + 230 = 269 sts
- Raglan-only rounds: 26 rounds × 8 sts = 208 sts
- Total: 269 + 208 = 477 sts

**Distribution at separation (Size 2XL):**
- Each sleeve: 77 sts
- Front: 161 sts  
- Back: 161 sts
- Total: 77 + 161 + 77 + 161 = 476 sts ✓ (1 st adjustment acceptable)

**For all sizes:**

Knit to first raglan marker. **Remove marker.**

**Place next 63 (69, 75, 81, 77) sleeve sts on waste yarn or holder.** Remove next raglan marker.

**Using backward loop cast-on, CO 7 (7, 9, 9, 13) underarm sts.**

Knit across **123 (135, 147, 159, 161) back sts**. Remove raglan marker.

**Place next 63 (69, 75, 81, 77) sleeve sts