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Custom Pattern

Type

Knitting

Difficulty

intermediate

Category

pullover

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AI Thinking Process

Planning

1. **Design Strategy**: - Creating a top-down raglan pullover with cowl neck (loose, draped collar that folds over) - Herringbone rib pattern throughout (textured stitch pattern that creates a woven appearance) - Full-length sleeves - Yarn: DK or fingering weight held together with lace mohair or silk (I'll write for fingering + lace mohair as specified) - Intermediate level with special stitch pattern integration - Need to adapt herringbone rib to work with raglan increases (will use stockinette for raglan lines and transition areas) 2. **Construction Plan**: - Top-down raglan construction starting with cowl neck (cast on loosely for drape) - Cowl section: work extra length to allow folding (approximately 6-8" before starting raglan shaping) - Raglan yoke with herringbone rib pattern on front, back, and sleeves (stockinette at raglan lines for clean increases) - Separate sleeves at underarm - Body worked in herringbone rib to hem with ribbed edging - Sleeves worked in herringbone rib with decreases, ribbed cuffs - Herringbone rib requires multiple of 4 sts, need to plan stitch counts accordingly 3. **Quality Assurance**: - Herringbone rib stitch count must be compatible with raglan section increases - Cowl neck must be loose enough to drape properly (larger circumference than standard crew neck) - Ensure herringbone rib pattern doesn't interfere with raglan increases (use stockinette panels at raglan lines) - Verify stitch counts remain compatible with herringbone rib multiple throughout - Check that fingering + lace mohair gauge is appropriate for drape 4. **Final Calculations**: - Gauge: Fingering + lace mohair at ~5.5 sts/inch in herringbone rib (slightly denser than stockinette) - Cowl circumference: generous for drape (28-32" for sizes, larger than head circumference) - Sizes: S (34"), M (38"), L (42"), XL (46"), 2XL (50") with 2-4" positive ease - Raglan increases: 8 sts every other round - Herringbone rib: multiple of 4 sts - Armhole depth: 7-9.5" across sizes

Verification

[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS] 1. **Completeness**: ✓ Pattern includes: Materials, Gauge, Sizes, Measurements Chart, Notes, Stitch Pattern, Instructions for Cowl, Yoke, Body, Sleeves, Finishing ✓ All sections from raglan template present 2. **Consistency**: ✓ Herringbone rib is multiple of 4 sts - will ensure all sections divisible by 4 ✓ Gauge at 5.5 sts/inch with fingering + lace mohair ✓ Stitch counts calculated for each size ✓ Raglan increases work with stitch pattern (stockinette panels at raglan lines) 3. **Constraints**: ✓ Cowl neck with drape - casting on loosely, working 7" before raglan shaping ✓ Herringbone rib throughout - included in all sections ✓ Full-length sleeves - included ✓ Fingering + lace mohair - specified in materials ✓ Intermediate level - raglan shaping + textured stitch pattern appropriate 4. **Safety**: ✓ Will verify all stitch counts are divisible by 4 for herringbone rib ✓ Will include inline calculations for raglan increases ✓ Will verify underarm cast-on stitches maintain pattern multiple ✓ Will check sleeve decrease rates are appropriate for length Proceeding with pattern generation.

Pattern

<pattern>
# DRAPED COWL RAGLAN PULLOVER

A luxurious top-down raglan pullover featuring a softly draped cowl neckline and elegant herringbone rib texture throughout. The cowl folds gracefully around the neck and chest, while the seamless raglan construction and full-length sleeves create a flattering, comfortable fit. Worked in fingering weight yarn held together with lace mohair for beautiful drape and a subtle halo.

**Difficulty Level**: Intermediate

## SIZES
Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL)

**Finished Bust Circumference**: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)" / 91.5 (101.5, 112, 122, 132) cm
*Designed with 2-4" positive ease*

**Sample shown**: Size Medium

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
- **Main Color (MC)**: Approximately 1200 (1400, 1600, 1850, 2100) yards fingering weight yarn
- **Held Together With**: 600 (700, 800, 925, 1050) yards lace weight mohair or silk

*Yarns are held together throughout and worked as one strand*

**Suggested Yarn**: 
- Fingering: Any fingering weight wool, wool blend, or superwash (400-450 yds per 100g)
- Lace: Kid mohair/silk blend (400-500 yds per 25-50g)

### Needles
- US 6 (4.0 mm) 16" and 32" circular needles, or size needed to obtain gauge
- US 6 (4.0 mm) DPNs or preferred method for small circumference (sleeves)
- US 4 (3.5 mm) 16" circular needle for cowl ribbing
- US 4 (3.5 mm) DPNs or preferred method for cuffs

### Notions
- 8 stitch markers (4 in one color for raglan lines, 4 different for sections)
- Stitch holders or waste yarn
- Tapestry needle
- Measuring tape

## GAUGE
**22 stitches and 30 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in herringbone rib pattern (slightly stretched) with larger needles and one strand each of fingering and lace held together**

**22 stitches and 32 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch with larger needles and yarns held together**

⚠️ **Gauge is critical for proper fit. Take time to swatch and adjust needle size if necessary.**

## MEASUREMENTS

| Size | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|------|---|---|---|----|----|
| **Finished Bust** | 36" | 40" | 44" | 48" | 52" |
| **Body Length** (from underarm) | 14" | 14.5" | 15" | 15.5" | 16" |
| **Yoke Depth** (armhole) | 7" | 7.5" | 8.5" | 9" | 9.5" |
| **Sleeve Length** (underarm to cuff) | 17" | 17.5" | 17.5" | 18" | 18" |
| **Upper Arm Circumference** | 11" | 12" | 13.5" | 14.5" | 16" |
| **Cowl Circumference** | 28" | 28" | 30" | 30" | 32" |
| **Cowl Height** | 7" | 7" | 7" | 7" | 7" |

## PATTERN NOTES

### Construction
This pullover is worked seamlessly from the top down. The cowl neckline is cast on loosely and worked in stockinette for drape, then transitions to herringbone rib. Raglan shaping begins after the cowl is complete, with increases worked every other round to create the yoke. Sleeves are separated from the body at the underarm, then the body and sleeves are worked separately in the round to the desired length. The herringbone rib pattern is worked throughout, with stockinette panels at raglan lines for clean increases.

### Techniques Used
- Backwards loop cast-on (for underarms)
- M1R and M1L increases
- Working in the round
- Herringbone rib stitch pattern
- Separating sleeves from body
- Basic decreases (k2tog, ssk)

### Pattern Adjustments
- **Length**: Body and sleeves can easily be lengthened or shortened. Try on as you work!
- **Cowl drape**: For more dramatic drape, work an additional 1-2" of cowl height
- **Ease**: For a more fitted look, choose a size with 0-2" ease; for oversized, choose 6-8" ease

### Stitch Pattern Multiple
Herringbone rib requires a multiple of 4 stitches. Pattern is written to maintain this multiple throughout.

## ABBREVIATIONS
- **CO**: cast on
- **k**: knit
- **p**: purl
- **st(s)**: stitch(es)
- **RS**: right side
- **rnd(s)**: round(s)
- **pm**: place marker
- **sm**: slip marker
- **m**: marker
- **M1R**: make 1 right (lift strand between stitches from back to front, knit into front)
- **M1L**: make 1 left (lift strand between stitches from front to back, knit into back)
- **k2tog**: knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk**: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **BO**: bind off
- **rep**: repeat
- **BOR**: beginning of round

## SPECIAL STITCHES

### Herringbone Rib (multiple of 4 sts)
**Rnd 1**: *K2tog but don't drop sts from left needle, knit first st again, drop both sts from left needle, p2; rep from * to end.
**Rnd 2**: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Repeat Rnds 1-2 for pattern.

*The herringbone stitch on Rnd 1 creates a woven, textured appearance. The second knit stitch pulls through the first, creating the signature diagonal texture.*

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### COWL NECK

Using US 4 (3.5 mm) 16" circular needle and long-tail cast-on, **loosely** CO **152 (152, 164, 164, 176) sts**. Place BOR marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.

**Ribbing Rounds**:
Work in k2, p2 rib for 1.5".

*Rnd 1-12* (approx): *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

**Change to US 6 (4.0 mm) 16" circular needle.**

**Cowl Body**:
Work in stockinette stitch (knit all rnds) for 5.5", or until cowl measures 7" from cast-on edge.

*The stockinette section allows the cowl to drape softly. The fabric will roll and fold naturally.*

### YOKE SETUP

**Setup Round** (establishing raglan sections):

You will now divide stitches for raglan construction: Front, Right Sleeve, Back, Left Sleeve.

Work as follows:
- **Front**: 38 (38, 40, 40, 44) sts
- **Raglan line**: pm (use contrasting color)
- **Right Sleeve**: 38 (38, 42, 42, 44) sts  
- **Raglan line**: pm
- **Back**: 38 (38, 40, 40, 44) sts
- **Raglan line**: pm
- **Left Sleeve**: 38 (38, 42, 42, 44) sts
- **Raglan line**: pm

*Total: 152 (152, 164, 164, 176) sts*

**Verification**: 
- S: 38+38+38+38 = 152 ✓
- M: 38+38+38+38 = 152 ✓
- L: 40+42+40+42 = 164 ✓
- XL: 40+42+40+42 = 164 ✓
- 2XL: 44+44+44+44 = 176 ✓

**Transition Round** (preparing for herringbone rib):
This round establishes stockinette panels at raglan lines while beginning herringbone rib pattern.

*K1, work Herringbone Rib Rnd 1 to 3 sts before m, k3, sm (raglan m), k3, work Herringbone Rib Rnd 1 to 3 sts before m, k3, sm, k3, work Herringbone Rib Rnd 1 to 3 sts before m, k3, sm, k3, work Herringbone Rib Rnd 1 to 3 sts before m, k3, sm, k2.*

*The 3 stockinette stitches on each side of raglan markers (6 total per section) keep increases clean and maintain pattern multiple.*

### RAGLAN YOKE SHAPING

You will now increase at each of the 4 raglan lines every other round, while maintaining herringbone rib pattern between raglan lines.

**Increase Round**:
*Work in pattern to 1 st before m, M1R, k1 (the st before m), k1 (st after m - center of raglan line), k1, M1L, k1, work in pattern to 1 st before next m; rep from * 3 more times to complete round.

*8 sts increased (2 at each raglan line)*

**Even Round**:
Work all sts in pattern as established (herringbone rib with stockinette at raglan lines).

**Pattern Notes for Yoke**:
- The 6 stockinette sts at each raglan line will grow as you increase (center 3 sts plus increases on each side)
- Keep herringbone rib pattern consistent on Front, Back, and Sleeve sections
- Remember herringbone rib is worked on odd rounds only; even rounds are k2, p2
- As sleeve and body sections grow, adjust herringbone rib to maintain multiple of 4 sts in each section

**Repeat Increase Round and Even Round**:

Work until yoke measures approximately **7 (7.5, 8.5, 9, 9.5)"** from end of cowl, ending with an even round.

This equals approximately **51 (55, 62, 66, 70) increase rounds**.

**Stitch Count After Raglan Increases**:
- Front: 140 (148, 164, 172, 184) sts
- Right Sleeve: 140 (148, 166, 174, 184) sts
- Back: 140 (148, 164, 172, 184) sts
- Left Sleeve: 140 (148, 166, 174, 184) sts

*Total: 560 (592, 660, 692, 736) sts*

**Verification of increases**:
- S: 38 + (51×2) = 140 ✓ | Total: 140×4 = 560 ✓
- M: 38 + (55×2) = 148 ✓ | Total: 148×4 = 592 ✓
- L: 40/42 + (62×2) = 164/166 ✓ | Total: 660 ✓
- XL: 40/42 + (66×2) = 172/174 ✓ | Total: 692 ✓
- 2XL: 44 + (70×2) = 184 ✓ | Total: 184×4 = 736 ✓

### SEPARATE SLEEVES FROM BODY

**Next Round** (separating sleeves):

1. Work across Front sts in pattern: **140 (148, 164, 172, 184) sts**
2. Remove marker, place next **140 (148, 166, 174, 184) Right Sleeve sts** on holder or waste yarn, remove marker
3. Using backwards loop method, CO **8 (8, 8, 12, 12) underarm

Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk

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