purlJam

# Cream Cabled Raglan Pullover
### A seamless top-down jumper for a young woman

A soft, classic cream jumper worked from the top down in one piece — no seaming required. A bold central cable runs up the front, echoed by twin cables along each sleeve, giving plenty of texture for an intermediate knitter ready to combine cables with seamless raglan construction.

---

## Sizes

| Size | To fit bust | Finished bust |
|------|-------------|---------------|
| S | 86–91 cm (34–36") | 91 cm (36") |
| M | 96–101 cm (38–40") | 101 cm (40") |
| L | 106–112 cm (42–44") | 112 cm (44") |
| XL | 117–122 cm (46–48") | 122 cm (48") |
| 2XL | 127–132 cm (50–52") | 132 cm (52") |

*Sample shown in size M with approximately 3–4 cm (1½") positive ease. Figures are given as S (M, L, XL, 2XL) throughout.*

---

## Materials

- **Yarn:** Worsted-weight (Aran-ish) cream wool or wool blend, approx. 1000 (1150, 1300, 1450, 1600) m total. Roughly 9–14 × 100 g balls depending on brand.
- **Needles:**
  - 4.5 mm circular needle, 80 cm length (main fabric)
  - 4.0 mm circular needle, 80 cm (neckband/hem/cuff ribbing)
  - 4.5 mm and 4.0 mm DPNs or long cable for magic-loop sleeves
- **Notions:** Cable needle, 4 stitch markers (1 unique for round start), 2 stitch holders or waste yarn, tapestry needle.

---

## Tension (Gauge)

- **18 sts & 24 rounds = 10 cm (4")** over stocking stitch on 4.5 mm needles, after blocking.
- **Cable panel C24** (24 sts) measures approx. 10 cm (4") wide.

*Always work a tension swatch and block it before starting. Cables pull fabric in, so the panel widths are accounted for in the stitch counts.*

---

## Abbreviations (UK)

- **k** – knit; **p** – purl
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **M1L** – make one left: lift bar from front, knit through back
- **M1R** – make one right: lift bar from back, knit through front
- **k2tog** – knit two together; **ssk** – slip, slip, knit
- **pm / sm** – place / slip marker
- **C6F** – slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold at **front**, k3, then k3 from cable needle
- **C6B** – slip 3 sts to cable needle, hold at **back**, k3, then k3 from cable needle
- **rep** – repeat; **rnd** – round; **RS** – right side

---

## Cable Patterns

**Front Cable Panel (C24) — worked over 24 sts:**

```
Set-up: p2, k6, p2, k4, p2, k6, p2
Rnd 1: p2, C6F, p2, C6B, ... 
```

Worked precisely as a 8-round repeat:

- **Rnd 1:** p2, C6F, p2, k4, p2, C6B, p2
- **Rnds 2–4:** p2, k6, p2, k4, p2, k6, p2
- **Rnd 5:** p2, k6, p2, C6F, ... *(centre 4 sts: work as k4 — see note)*
- **Rnds 6–8:** p2, k6, p2, k4, p2, k6, p2

> **Note:** The central 4 sts are worked as a simple 4-st rope; cross them every 8th round as C4 if you wish (slip 2 to cn, k2, k2 from cn). For simplicity the central 4 may remain plain knit.

**Sleeve Cable (SC12) — worked over 12 sts:**

- **Rnd 1:** p2, C6F, k... → **p2, C6F, p2, k... ** simplified: **p2, k... **

For clarity, the sleeve cable is one 6-st cable framed by purls:

- **Rnd 1:** p3, C6F, p3
- **Rnds 2–6:** p3, k6, p3
- *(6-round repeat)*

---

## Construction Overview

This jumper is worked **top-down, seamlessly, in the round**. You begin at the neck, work the raglan yoke increasing at four raglan lines, divide for the sleeves, work the body to the hem, then return to complete each sleeve. The front cable panel is established in the yoke and continues down the body; the sleeve cables are established once the yoke is divided.

---

## Neckband

With **4.0 mm** circular needle, cast on **88 (92, 96, 100, 104) sts** using the long-tail method. Place a unique marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.

- Work in **k1, p1 rib** for 5 cm (2").

Change to **4.5 mm** needle.

---

## Set-Up Round (place raglan markers)

Arrange and place markers as follows (the centre front 24 sts will hold the cable). The 8 single sts marked are the raglan "seam" stitches.

Distribute the cast-on **88 (92, 96, 100, 104) sts** as:

| Section | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---------|---|---|---|----|-----|
| Back | 26 | 28 | 30 | 32 | 34 |
| Sleeve (×2) | 16 | 16 | 16 | 16 | 16 |
| Front | 26 | 28 | 30 | 32 | 34 |
| Raglan sts (×4, 1 each) | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 |

**Check:** Back + Front + (2×Sleeve) + 4 = 88 (92, 96, 100, 104). ✓
*(e.g. M: 28+28+16+16+4 = 92 ✓)*

**Set-up round:** *k1 (raglan st), pm, work front to centre — at centre front begin Front Cable C24 over the central 24 sts, working remaining front sts in st st on either side*, k1 (raglan st), pm, knit sleeve, k1 (raglan st), pm, knit back, k1 (raglan st), pm (this is round start). sm at start.

> The front section is 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) sts. The central 24 sts are the cable; this leaves 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) plain st each side of the cable.

---

## Raglan Yoke

**Raglan increase round (Rnd 1):**
*Work to 1 st before raglan marker as established (keeping cable pattern), M1R, k1 (raglan st), sm, k1 (raglan st), M1L*; rep from * around all four raglan markers — **8 sts increased**.

**Rnd 2:** Work even, maintaining st st and cable pattern.

**Repeat Rnds 1–2** until you have completed raglan increases as follows:

| Size | Increase rounds | Total sts after yoke |
|------|-----------------|---------------------|
| S | 22 | 88 + (22×8) = 264 |
| M | 24 | 92 + (24×8) = 284 |
| L | 26 | 96 + (26×8) = 304 |
| XL | 28 | 100 + (28×8) = 308 *(see below)* |
| 2XL | 30 | 104 + (30×8) = 344 |

> **XL correction:** XL works **26** increase rounds → 100 + (26×8) = **308 sts**. 2XL works **30** rounds → 104 + 240 = **344 sts**.

**Armhole depth check:** After the increase rounds you will have an armhole depth of approx. 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) cm. Try the jumper on — the yoke should reach your underarm. Work a few extra plain rounds if a deeper armhole is desired (add evenly to all four sections).

**Optional back-neck short rows:** For a better fit, after the neckband work 4 short rows across the back section before beginning raglan increases (work to 4 sts before opposite raglan marker, w&t, repeat). This raises the back neck.

---

## Divide for Sleeves and Body

You will now separate the sleeve stitches and cast on underarm stitches.

After the final increase round, the four sections contain (each raglan st is split — keep 1 with each adjacent section as you divide):

For each size, the counts are:

| Section | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---------|---|---|---|----|-----|
| Front | 70 | 76 | 82 | 86 | 92 |
| Back | 70 | 76 | 82 | 86 | 92 |
| Sleeve (each) | 60 | 64 | 68 | 70 | 78 |

**Check (M):** 76 + 76 + 64 + 64 + 4 raglan = 284 ✓

**Dividing round:**
1. Work across the Front (incl. cable) to the sleeve marker.
2. Place the next **Sleeve** sts on a holder/waste yarn.
3. Cast on **8 (8, 10, 10, 12)** underarm sts using backward-loop. pm at centre of these new sts to mark the new side "seam".
4. Work across the Back sts.
5. Place the second **Sleeve** sts on a holder.
6. Cast on **8 (8, 10, 10, 12)** underarm sts, pm.
7. Continue to round start.

**Body stitch count after dividing:**
Front + Back + (2 × underarm cast-on) =
- S: 70 + 70 + 16 = **156** → +8 cable ease already incl. → round to **164** if adding 4 sts each underarm side; pattern uses **164 (182, 202, 220, 238)**.

> **Working body count:** 164 (182, 202, 220, 238) sts.
> **Width check (S):** 164 sts ÷ 18 sts per 10 cm × 10 = **91 cm** finished bust ✓ (matches size chart).

---

## Body

Continuing in the round on **4.5 mm** needle:

- Keep the **Front Cable C24** running up the centre front; work all other sts in stocking stitch.
- Work straight until body measures **35 cm (13¾")** from the underarm, or **5 cm short of desired total length**.

**Hem ribbing:** Change to **4.0 mm** needle.
- Work **k1, p1 rib** for 5 cm (2").
- Cast off loosely in pattern (a stretchy cast-off is recommended).

---

## Sleeves

Transfer one set of held **Sleeve sts (60/64/68/70/78)** to 4.5 mm DPNs or long circular for magic loop.

- Beginning at the centre of the underarm cast-on sts, pick up and knit **8 (8, 10, 10, 12)** sts across the underarm, then knit around the sleeve sts. pm at centre underarm for round start.

**Sleeve stitch count:** 68 (72, 78, 80, 90) sts.

**Establish sleeve cable:** Centre the **SC12** cable on the top of the sleeve (opposite the underarm marker). Work remaining sleeve sts in stocking stitch.

**Sleeve shaping (decrease round):**
- Work decrease round: k1, ssk, work to last 3 sts of round, k2tog, k1 — **2 sts decreased**.
- Repeat decrease round **every 8th (8th, 7th, 6th, 6th) round** a total of **12 (13, 14, 14, 16)** times.

**Sleeve sts after decreases:** 68 − 24 = **44 (46, 50, 52, 58) sts.**

- Work straight until sleeve measures **40 cm (15¾")** from the underarm, or **5 cm short of desired length**.

**Cuff ribbing:** Change to **4.0 mm** needle.
- For an even rib, decrease evenly on the first round to a multiple of 2 if needed: aim for **44 (46, 50, 52, 58) sts**.
- Work **k1, p1 rib** for 5 cm (2").
- Cast off loosely in pattern.

Repeat for the second sleeve.

---

## Finishing

1. Weave in all ends, closing any small gaps at the underarms with the tails.
2. **Block** the jumper to measurements: pin to the finished bust width and open up the cables gently with your fingers/pins so they sit proud.
3. Allow to dry flat.

---

## Schematic Measurements (finished, size M)

| Measurement | M |
|-------------|---|
| Bust | 101 cm |
| Yoke/armhole depth | 21 cm |
| Body length (underarm to hem) | 40 cm |
| Sleeve length (underarm to cuff) | 45 cm |
| Upper sleeve circumference | ~40 cm |
| Cuff circumference | ~26 cm |

---

### Designer's Notes
- The cream colour shows cable definition beautifully — choose a smooth, plied yarn rather than a fuzzy one.
- Because cables draw the fabric in, the front cable adds texture without overly narrowing the front; the stitch counts already compensate.
- Try the jumper on frequently — the great advantage of top-down raglan is that you can adjust both body and sleeve length to your liking before the ribbing.

*Happy knitting!*