purlJam

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# BOBBLE HANDBAG
### A Textured Small Handbag with Stacked Bobble Pattern

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## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

This sweet little handbag features a rich, all-over bobble texture worked in rounds from the bottom up. Five-treble bobbles sit on every third stitch and are cleverly offset from row to row, so they stack in a diagonal brick-like formation across the bag body. Sturdy chain-and-double-crochet handles complete the design. Perfect for a beginner ready to try their first textured stitch!

**Skill Level:** Beginner (with one new technique: the bobble stitch — fully explained)
**Terminology:** UK crochet terms throughout

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | Metric | Imperial |
|---|---|---|
| Width (circumference) | ~60 cm | ~24 in |
| Width (laid flat) | ~30 cm | ~12 in |
| Height (body, excluding handles) | ~22 cm | ~8.5 in |
| Handle drop | ~20 cm | ~8 in |

> **Note:** These are approximate finished measurements after light blocking. Cotton yarn softens and settles with use.

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## MATERIALS

- **Yarn:** 100% cotton worsted weight yarn — approx. 280–320 metres (310–350 yards)
  - *Recommended:* Any DK-to-worsted 100% cotton or cotton-blend. The pattern was designed for a yarn with good stitch definition so bobbles show clearly.
  - *Colour shown:* Any solid or semi-solid colour — avoid variegated, which will obscure the bobble texture.
- **Hook:** 5 mm crochet hook (US size H/8)
- **Notions:**
  - Stitch markers (at least 4)
  - Yarn needle (tapestry/blunt tip)
  - Scissors
  - Measuring tape

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## TENSION (GAUGE)

**14 dc × 16 rounds = 10 cm × 10 cm (4 in × 4 in)**
Worked in double crochet (dc) in the round using a 5 mm hook.

> **Why tension matters here:** If your tension is too tight, the bag will be stiff and smaller than intended. If too loose, the bobbles may lose definition. Work a tension swatch of at least 15 × 15 cm before beginning. Adjust hook size as needed — go up a half size (5.5 mm) if your tension is tight, down a half size (4.5 mm) if it is loose.
>
> **Bobble round note:** Bobble rounds may pull slightly tighter than plain dc rounds. If this is noticeable in your swatch, use a hook one half-size larger for bobble rounds only (e.g., switch to 5.5 mm for those rounds).

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## ABBREVIATIONS (UK TERMS)

| Abbreviation | UK Term | US Equivalent |
|---|---|---|
| ch | chain | chain |
| sl st | slip stitch | slip stitch |
| dc | double crochet | single crochet |
| htr | half treble crochet | half double crochet |
| tr | treble crochet | double crochet |
| bob | bobble stitch (5-tr bobble) | 5-dc bobble |
| st(s) | stitch(es) | stitch(es) |
| sp | space | space |
| rep | repeat | repeat |
| rem | remaining | remaining |
| RS | right side | right side |
| WS | wrong side | wrong side |
| PM | place marker | place marker |
| SM | slip marker | slip marker |
| beg | beginning | beginning |

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## SPECIAL STITCH: 5-TREBLE BOBBLE (bob)

The bobble is formed by working five incomplete treble crochets into the same stitch, then closing them all together. This creates a raised, rounded "bobble" that pops to the front (RS) of the fabric.

**How to work a bobble (bob):**

1. Yarn over (yo), insert hook into stitch indicated.
2. Yo, pull up a loop — 3 loops on hook.
3. Yo, draw through 2 loops — 2 loops remain on hook. *(One incomplete tr made.)*
4. **Repeat steps 1–3 four more times** into the **same stitch**, working each incomplete tr. *(After all 5 incomplete tr: 6 loops on hook.)*
5. Yo, draw through **all 6 loops** on hook at once. *(Bobble closed — 1 loop on hook.)*
6. Ch 1 to secure and stabilise the bobble. *(This ch-1 does NOT count as a stitch.)*

> **Beginner tip:** The bobble will pop out toward you as you work. This is the right side (RS) of the bag. If working in the round and the bobble pops inward, turn your work or push the bobble outward with your finger after completing it — it should face outward (RS).

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## CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

The bag is worked **in the round, from the bottom up**, in a continuous spiral (no joining between rounds unless specified). The base is an oval foundation, increased over three rounds to the full body stitch count. The body is worked straight, alternating one bobble round with two plain dc rounds, with bobbles offset by one stitch on every bobble round so they form a staggered, stacked pattern. The bag finishes with a simple border and two chain-loop handles reinforced with dc.

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## PATTERN

### SECTION 1: OVAL BASE

The oval base gives the bag a flat, stable bottom.

**Foundation Chain:**
Ch 25. *(This is your starting chain.)*

**Round 1 (base, increase round):** Working into the back bump of each chain:
- 3 dc into the 2nd ch from hook *(corner increase)*
- dc into each of the next 22 ch *(22 sts)*
- 3 dc into the last ch *(corner increase)*
- Now rotate and work along the other side of the foundation chain:
- dc into each of the next 22 ch *(22 sts)*
- Sl st to the first dc to join. PM to mark the beginning of round.

**Stitch count after Round 1:** 3 + 22 + 3 + 22 = **50 sts**

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**Round 2 (increase round):**
- 2 dc into each of next 3 sts *(+3 sts, corner)*
- dc into each of next 22 sts
- 2 dc into each of next 3 sts *(+3 sts, corner)*
- dc into each of next 22 sts
- Sl st to join. SM (move marker up).

**Stitch count after Round 2:** 50 + 6 = **56 sts**

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**Round 3 (increase round):**
- [2 dc into next st, dc into next st] 3 times *(+3 sts, corner)*
- dc into each of next 22 sts
- [2 dc into next st, dc into next st] 3 times *(+3 sts, corner)*
- dc into each of next 22 sts
- Sl st to join. SM.

**Stitch count after Round 3:** 56 + 6 = **62 sts**

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**Round 4 (increase round):**
- [2 dc into next st, dc into each of next 2 sts] 3 times *(+3 sts, corner)*
- dc into each of next 22 sts
- [2 dc into next st, dc into each of next 2 sts] 3 times *(+3 sts, corner)*
- dc into each of next 22 sts
- Sl st to join. SM.

**Stitch count after Round 4:** 62 + 6 = **68 sts**

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**Round 5 (increase round):**
- [2 dc into next st, dc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times *(+3 sts, corner)*
- dc into each of next 22 sts
- [2 dc into next st, dc into each of next 3 sts] 3 times *(+3 sts, corner)*
- dc into each of next 22 sts
- Sl st to join. SM.

**Stitch count after Round 5:** 68 + 6 = **74 sts**

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**Round 6 (final base increase round):**
- [2 dc into next st, dc into each of next 4 sts] 3 times *(+3 sts, corner)*
- dc into each of next 22 sts
- [2 dc into next st, dc into each of next 4 sts] 3 times *(+3 sts, corner)*
- dc into each of next 22 sts
- Sl st to join. SM.

**Stitch count after Round 6:** 74 + 6 = **80 sts**

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**Round 7 (adjustment round — even dc, no increases):**
- dc into each of next 4 sts
- 2 dc into next st *(+1)*
- dc into each of next 35 sts
- 2 dc into next st *(+1)*
- dc into each of next 39 sts
- Sl st to join. SM.

**Stitch count after Round 7:** 80 + 2 = **82 sts**

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**Round 8 (final adjustment round):**
- dc into each of next 10 sts
- 2 dc into next st *(+1)*
- dc into each of next 71 sts
- Sl st to join. SM.

**Stitch count after Round 8:** 82 + 2 = **84 sts** ✅
*(84 ÷ 3 = 28 — confirmed divisible by 3, required for bobble repeat)*

> **Check:** You should have **84 stitches** at the end of Round 8. Count carefully before proceeding to the bag body.

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### SECTION 2: BAG BODY

From this point the bag is worked in a **continuous spiral** (do not join or turn between rounds). Move your stitch marker up at the end of each round to track your progress.

The body is approximately 22 cm (8.5 in) tall and is worked in a **3-round repeat**:

| Round in Repeat | What You Work |
|---|---|
| Round A | **Bobble round** — bobble on every 3rd stitch |
| Round B | Plain dc all the way around |
| Round C | Plain dc all the way around |

The bobble position **shifts by 1 stitch** on every Bobble Round (A), creating the stacked/offset pattern.

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#### BODY ROUNDS

**Body Round 1 (Bobble Round A — Set 1):**
*Bobbles begin on stitch 1 of the round.*

- **bob** into first st, dc into next 2 sts
- *[bob into next st, dc into next 2 sts]* — rep to end of round

**Stitch count:** 84 sts (28 bobbles + 56 dc) ✅

> **Stitch count check:** You should work exactly **28 bobbles** and **56 dc** stitches in this round. The ch-1 after each bobble does NOT count as a stitch — do not work into it.

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**Body Round 2 (Plain dc):**
- dc into each st around (84 sts)

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**Body Round 3 (Plain dc):**
- dc into each st around (84 sts)

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**Body Round 4 (Bobble Round A — Set 2):**
*Bobbles shift by 1 stitch — begin on stitch 2.*

- dc into first st *(1 plain dc before first bobble)*
- **bob** into next st, dc into next 2 sts
- *[bob into next st, dc into next 2 sts]* — rep until 1 st remains
- dc into last st

**Stitch count:** 84 sts (28 bobbles + 56 dc) ✅

> **Stitch count check:** You should again work **28 bobbles** and **56 dc** stitches. The offset creates the staggered visual pattern.

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**Body Round 5 (Plain dc):**
- dc into each st around (84 sts)

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**Body Round 6 (Plain dc):**
- dc into each st around (84 sts)

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**Body Round 7 (Bobble Round A — Set 3):**
*Bobbles shift by 1 more stitch — begin on stitch 3.*

- dc into each of first 2 sts *(2 plain dc before first bobble)*
- **bob** into next st, dc into next 2 sts
- *[bob into next st, dc into next 2 sts]* — rep to end of round

**Stitch count:** 84 sts (28 bobbles + 56 dc) ✅

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**Body Rounds 8–9 (Plain dc):**
- dc into each st around (84 sts each round)

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**Body Rounds 10–18:**
*Repeat the 9-round pattern of Rounds 1–9 (Rounds 10–12 are a repeat of Rounds 1–3, Rounds 13–15 are a repeat of Rounds 4–6, Rounds 16–18 are a repeat of Rounds 7–9).*

> **Stitch count at end of every round:** 84 sts throughout the entire body section.

> **Height check:** After completing all 18 body rounds, measure your work. The body (not including the base) should measure approximately 16–17 cm (6.5 in) from where the body begins. If you would like a taller bag, continue the 9-round repeat until you reach your desired height before proceeding to the border.

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**Body Rounds 19–21 (final 3 rounds before border — plain dc):**
- dc into each st around (84 sts each round)

> **Total body height check:** Your bag body should now measure approximately 20–22 cm (8–8.5 in) from base. ✅

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### SECTION 3: BORDER AND HANDLE PLACEMENT

**Border Round 1:**
- dc into each st around (84 sts)
- Sl st to first dc to join. Do NOT cut yarn.

**Border Round 2 (Handle placement round):**

This round creates the two handle loops. The handles are positioned on opposite sides of the bag opening — each handle spans approximately 10 stitches at the top.

Work as follows:
- dc into each of next 12 sts *(side panel)*
- **Ch 30** (this forms the first handle loop), skip next 18 sts on bag opening *(first handle opening made)*
- dc into each of next 24 sts *(opposite panel)*
- **Ch 30**, skip next 18 sts *(second handle opening made)*
- dc into each of last 12 sts

**Stitch count at end of round:** 48 dc + 2 handle ch-loops ✅
*(12 + 24 + 12 = 48 dc worked; 18 + 18 = 36 sts skipped, replaced by 2 × ch-30 loops)*

> **Handle tip:** A ch-30 loop with worsted cotton at 5 mm gives a handle drop of approximately 20 cm (8 in). For longer handles, ch up to 40. For shorter handles, ch 20.

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**Border Round 3 (Handle reinforcement round):**

Work around the entire opening, including along the handle chains:
- dc into each dc of previous round
- When you reach a handle ch-loop: work 30 dc evenly along the ch-30 chain *(one dc per chain link)*
- Continue dc into each dc, then 30 dc along the second handle chain

**Stitch count at end of round:** 48 + 30 + 30 = **108 sts** ✅

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**Border Round 4 (Final border — crab stitch, optional but recommended):**

*Crab stitch (also called reverse dc) gives a neat, firm finish that prevents the opening from stretching.*

- Working **right to left** (backwards, opposite direction to normal crochet):
- Insert hook into previous stitch (to the right), yo, pull up loop, yo, draw through both loops — 1 reverse dc made.
- Rep to end of round.
- Sl st to join. Fasten off.

> **Beginner note:** Crab stitch feels awkward at first — it is intentionally worked in the opposite direction. It gives the bag opening a lovely professional edge. If preferred, substitute a final round of plain dc or a round of [sl st, ch 1, skip 1] for a simple picot.

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### SECTION 4: FINISHING

**Weave in ends:**
Using a yarn needle, weave in all yarn tails securely — at least 3–4 cm (1.5 in) in each direction to prevent unravelling. Cotton yarn can be slippery; weave through 2–3 directions.

**Block your bag:**
Wet blocking is strongly recommended for cotton yarn:
1. Submerge the finished bag in cool water for 10 minutes.
2. Gently squeeze out excess water — do not wring.
3. Lay flat on a towel. Roll the towel around the bag and press firmly to remove more water.
4. Shape the bag to the finished measurements while damp.
5. Allow to dry completely (12–24 hours) before use.

> Blocking will even out the fabric, open up the texture, and allow the bobbles to settle into their final positions.

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## SCHEMATIC

```
      ┌──────────────────────────────────┐
      │  Handle       Handle             │
      │  ┌──────┐     ┌──────┐          │
      │  │      │     │      │  Border   │
      │──┘      └─────┘      └──────────│  ← 84 sts at opening
      │                                  │
      │   B O D Y   (bobble pattern)     │  ~22 cm / 8.5 in
      │   o . . o . . o . . o . . o . . │
      │   . . o . . o . . o . . o . . o │
      │   . o . . o . . o . . o . . o . │
      │   (bobbles staggered per row)    │
      │                                  │
      │──────────────────────────────────│  ← 84 sts, body begins
      │       OVAL BASE (flat)           │  ~8 rounds
      └──────────────────────────────────┘
            ~30 cm / 12 in wide
```

*Legend: o = bobble, . = dc*

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## STITCH COUNT SUMMARY TABLE

| Section | Round(s) | Stitch Count |
|---|---|---|
| Base | Foundation chain | Ch 25 |
| Base | Round 1 | 50 sts |
| Base | Round 2 | 56 sts |
| Base | Round 3 | 62 sts |
| Base | Round 4 | 68 sts |
| Base | Round 5 | 74 sts |
| Base | Round 6 | 80 sts |
| Base | Round 7 | 82 sts |
| Base | Round 8 | **84 sts** ✅ |
| Body | Rounds 1–21 | **84 sts** throughout |
| Border | Round 1 | 84 sts |
| Border | Round 2 | 48 dc + 2 handle ch loops |
| Border | Round 3 | **108 sts** |
| Border | Round 4 (crab) | 108 sts |

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## YARN QUANTITY GUIDE

| Yarn | Approximate Amount |
|---|---|
| Main colour (MC) | 280–320 metres (310–350 yards) |
| Worsted weight, 100% cotton ball | Typically 1.5–2 balls of 200 m / 220 yd balls |

> Bobble rows use slightly more yarn than plain dc rounds. If substituting a lighter weight yarn, buy extra.

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## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

- **Hand wash** in cool water with gentle detergent, or machine wash on a delicate/wool cycle in a mesh laundry bag.
- **Do not tumble dry** — reshape and dry flat.
- **Do not iron** directly on bobbles — they may flatten. Steam lightly from a distance if needed.
- Store flat or stuffed with tissue paper to maintain shape.

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## CUSTOMISATION TIPS FOR BEGINNERS

| Want to change… | How to do it |
|---|---|
| **Bag size (larger)** | After Round 8 of the base, work an extra round: [2 dc in next st, dc in next 11 sts] × 7 = 91 sts. Adjust bobble repeat: 91 ÷ 3 = not divisible — so add 1 more: 2 dc in 2 sts = 84 + 8 = 92 — not ideal. Instead add 6 sts to reach 90 sts (÷3 = 30 repeats). |
| **Bag height (taller)** | Add more 9-round body repeats before the border. Each repeat adds approx. 5–6 cm (2 in). |
| **Handle length** | Change the number of chains in the handle loop. Approx. 1.5 ch = 1 cm / 0.6 in. |
| **No bobbles (plain version)** | Simply work all body rounds as plain dc. The shape and construction remain the same. |

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*Pattern designed using UK crochet terminology throughout. All measurements given in centimetres (cm) with inches (in) in parentheses. Tension given as tension (gauge). Hook sizes given in metric (mm) prominently.*

*© Your Crochet Pattern. This pattern is for personal use. Please do not reproduce or distribute without permission.*

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