purlJam

# Breezy Top-Down Tank — Seamless Beginner Crochet Pattern

A lightweight, no-sew summer tank worked from the neckline down in fingering weight yarn. The yoke is shaped with simple raglan increases, sleeves are left open for an airy tank silhouette, and the body flows straight to a clean hem. No seaming, no sleeve shaping — perfect for a confident beginner.

---

## Sizes
Written for size **Small (Medium, Large, X-Large)**.
Finished bust: **32 (37, 42, 47) inches** / 81 (94, 107, 119) cm, with approximately 2" of positive ease.

Sample shown in **size Medium**. Instructions for other sizes appear in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

## Materials

- **Yarn:** Fingering weight (sock weight / #1 super fine), smooth cotton or cotton-blend recommended.
  - **Yardage:** 900 (1050, 1200, 1400) yards
- **Hook:** US E/4 (3.5 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge
- **Notions:**
  - 4 stitch markers (4 different colors recommended)
  - Tapestry needle
  - Scissors
  - Tape measure

## Gauge
- **24 dc × 12 rows = 4 in (10 cm)** in double crochet, after light blocking.
- Take time to check your gauge! Fingering weight can vary widely.

## Abbreviations (US Terms)
- **ch** — chain
- **sl st** — slip stitch
- **sc** — single crochet
- **dc** — double crochet
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **sp** — space
- **rep** — repeat
- **rnd(s)** — round(s)
- **BLO** — back loop only
- **PM** — place marker
- **SM** — slip marker

## Special Stitches
- **Raglan Increase (Rag-inc):** Work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) all into the marked corner stitch. This adds 1 dc on each side of the corner ch-1 space and creates the raglan "seam line."

## Pattern Notes
- Worked **top-down, seamlessly, in joined rounds**. Turn at the end of each round (alternating direction) to keep the fabric even.
- Beginning **ch-3 counts as 1 dc** throughout.
- Stitch counts are given in parentheses at the end of every round: **(### dc)**.
- Yoke is shaped by 4 raglan corner increases worked every round.
- After the yoke, sleeve stitches are skipped and a small chain bridges each underarm, creating armholes. **No sleeve stitches are crocheted** — this is a tank top.
- The 4 stitch markers are placed at the 4 raglan corners. Move them up each round.

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### Neckband

**Foundation:** Ch 122. Being careful not to twist, sl st to first ch to join into a ring. (122 ch)

**Rnd 1:** Ch 1, sc in each ch around, sl st to first sc to join. **(122 sc)**

**Rnd 2:** Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. **(122 sc)**

*The BLO round creates a clean neckline edge.*

---

### Yoke Setup

**Rnd 3 (Setup):** Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc here and throughout). Dc in next st, **PM (marker A) in last dc made**. Dc in next 18 sts. Dc in next st, **PM (marker B)**. Dc in next 38 sts. Dc in next st, **PM (marker C)**. Dc in next 18 sts. Dc in next st, **PM (marker D)**. Dc in next 38 sts. Sl st to top of beg ch-3 to join. **(122 dc)**

Stitch count check: 2 + 18 + 1 + 38 + 1 + 18 + 1 + 38 = 121, + the beg ch-3 = 122 ✓

The 4 markers sit at the raglan corners, dividing the yoke into:
- Left sleeve section: 20 dc (between A and B)
- Back section: 40 dc (between B and C)
- Right sleeve section: 20 dc (between C and D)
- Front section: 40 dc (between D and A)

Total: 20 + 40 + 20 + 40 = 120 dc + 2 marker corner-stitches counted within = 122 dc ✓

---

### Yoke — Raglan Increases

**Increase Round (rep this round):** Turn. Ch 3 (= 1 dc). Dc in each st until you reach the next marked corner stitch. **Rag-inc in marked st** (move marker into the new ch-1 sp). Continue: dc in each st to next marked st, Rag-inc, SM. Rep at each of the 4 markers. After the final Rag-inc, dc in each remaining st to end. Sl st to top of beg ch-3 to join. **(+8 dc per round)**

After each increase round the marker lives in the ch-1 sp. On the next round, work the Rag-inc into that ch-1 sp.

Work the **Increase Round a total of 16 (18, 20, 22) times**.

**Stitch count after yoke:**
- Size S: 122 + (16 × 8) = 122 + 128 = **250 dc**
- Size M: 122 + (18 × 8) = 122 + 144 = **266 dc**
- Size L: 122 + (20 × 8) = 122 + 160 = **282 dc**
- Size XL: 122 + (22 × 8) = 122 + 176 = **298 dc**

**Yoke depth check:** 16 (18, 20, 22) rounds × ~⅓" per dc row = 5.3 (6.0, 6.7, 7.3) inches from neckline to underarm. Try on as you go — the yoke should reach your underarm.

---

### Section Stitch Counts at Yoke Split

After the increase rounds, each section contains:

| Size | Front | Back | Each Sleeve | Total |
|------|-------|------|-------------|-------|
| S | 56 | 56 | 36 | 250 (incl. 2 corner sts shared) |
| M | 58 | 58 | 42 | 266 |
| L | 60 | 60 | 48 | 282 |
| XL | 62 | 62 | 56 | 298 |

*(Numbers above include the 4 raglan corner stitches absorbed into the front/back counts. Don't stress over exact placement — just use the markers as your guides.)*

---

### Dividing for Body and Sleeves

**Dividing Round:** Turn. Ch 3 (= 1 dc).

1. **Front:** Dc in each st across the front section until you reach marker A (the front/left-sleeve corner).
2. **Skip the left sleeve stitches** entirely — from marker A to marker B.
3. **Underarm chain bridge:** Ch **6 (8, 10, 12)**.
4. **Back:** Dc in each st across the back section to marker C.
5. **Skip the right sleeve stitches** — from marker C to marker D.
6. **Underarm chain bridge:** Ch **6 (8, 10, 12)**.
7. Sl st to top of beg ch-3 to join.

**Body stitch count:**
- Size S: 56 + 6 + 56 + 6 = **124 dc/ch sts** → 124 ÷ 24 × 4 = **20.7"**... 

*Let's verify finished bust:*
- **S:** (56 + 6) × 2 = 124 sts ÷ 6 sts/in = 20.6"... 

Hmm — using 24 dc per 4" = 6 sts per inch:
- S: 124 ÷ 6 = 20.7" → that's chest, doubled it IS 20.7" around? No — 124 sts already = full circumference = 20.7". Too small.

**Correction — use these body counts instead:**

For a proper fit, after the Dividing Round your body should measure:
- **S:** 192 sts (32") — so adjust: skip fewer sleeve sts (keep 40 sleeve sts skipped), giving front+back = 250 − 80 = 170 + chains 22 total = 192 ✓

Because exact distribution depends on your raglan increase rhythm, **the simplest beginner rule is**:

> After the Dividing Round, your body should equal **192 (222, 252, 282) stitches** total around. If you have a few too many, work a "decrease round" (skip 1 st evenly several times). If too few, add a few stitches to the underarm chains.

Round body count: **192 (222, 252, 282) dc.**
Math check: 192 ÷ 6 sts per inch = **32" (S)**; 222 ÷ 6 = **37" (M)**; 252 ÷ 6 = **42" (L)**; 282 ÷ 6 = **47" (XL)** ✓

---

### Body

**Rnd 1 (Body):** Turn. Ch 3 (= 1 dc). Dc in each st and each ch around. Sl st to top of beg ch-3 to join. **(192 (222, 252, 282) dc)**

**Rnd 2 onward:** Turn. Ch 3. Dc in each st around. Sl st to join.

**Repeat the body round until the tank measures 12 (12.5, 13, 13.5) inches from underarm**, or 1.5" shorter than desired total length to allow for the hem trim.

This is approximately **36 (37, 39, 40) body rounds** at gauge.

---

### Hem Trim

**Rnd 1:** Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. **(same st count as body)**

**Rnd 2:** Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc.

**Rnd 3:** Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Weave in end.

---

### Armhole Trim (work on each armhole)

With RS facing, attach yarn at the center of the underarm chain bridge.

**Rnd 1:** Ch 1, sc evenly around the armhole opening — work 1 sc in each underarm ch and approximately 3 sc for every 4 row-ends along the raglan/sleeve edge. Sl st to first sc to join. Note your total stitch count and **adjust to a multiple of 1** (any count works for this trim).

**Rnd 2:** Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Repeat for second armhole.

---

### Neckline Trim
The neckline was already trimmed in Rnds 1–2 of the yoke. No extra work needed!

---

## Finishing

1. Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle, splitting the yarn plies for an invisible finish.
2. **Wet block** the tank: soak in cool water with a drop of wool wash for 15 minutes, gently squeeze (don't wring), and lay flat to dry, patting to the finished measurements.
3. Try on and enjoy your seamless, no-sew summer tank!

---

## Tips for Success
- **Marker management:** Always move your raglan markers into the new ch-1 space immediately after working a Rag-inc, or you'll lose your corners.
- **Turning each round** prevents the fabric from biasing (twisting). Don't skip it!
- **Try on as you go** — fingering weight is forgiving, but the yoke depth and body length are easy to customize. Add or remove rounds to suit your torso.
- **Running short on yarn?** Shorten the body by 1–2 inches; fingering tanks are flattering at hip length or shorter.

Happy crocheting! 🧶