British Button-Up Waistcoat

A classic V-neck knitted waistcoat with a six-button front, ribbed hems and armholes, and optional welt pockets. Worked flat in pieces from the bottom up in stocking stitch, then finished with a continuous 1×1 rib front-and-neck band. Designed as a tailored layering piece in Aran / worsted-weight wool.

Difficulty: Intermediate

Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL)

To fit chest: 81 (91, 102, 112, 122, 132) cm / 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52) in

Shown with 5–7 cm positive ease. Choose the size closest to your actual chest measurement; for a closer, more traditional waistcoat fit, choose the size below your chest measurement.

Where only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. Circle your size throughout before you begin.

Finished measurements

Chest (buttoned): 87 (98, 107, 118, 127, 138) cm / 34¼ (38½, 42¼, 46½, 50, 54¼) in

Length (shoulder to hem): 56 (58, 60, 62, 64, 66) cm / 22 (22¾, 23½, 24½, 25¼, 26) in

Length to underarm: 35 (36, 37, 38, 39, 40) cm / 13¾ (14¼, 14½, 15, 15¼, 15¾) in

Armhole depth (before edging): 21 (22, 23, 24, 25, 26) cm / 8¼ (8¾, 9, 9½, 9¾, 10¼) in

Back width: 44 (49, 54, 59, 64, 69) cm / 17¼ (19¼, 21¼, 23¼, 25¼, 27¼) in

Each shoulder: 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) cm / 3½ (4, 4¼, 4¾, 5, 5½) in

Back neck: 16 (17, 18, 19, 20, 21) cm / 6¼ (6¾, 7, 7½, 8, 8¼) in

Button band width: 3 cm / 1¼ in

Hem rib: 6 cm / 2¼ in

Yarn

Aran-weight yarn (US worsted), wool or wool-blend with enough body to hold a tailored shape.

Metreage: approx 200 m / 100 g

Quantity: 300 (350, 400, 450, 500, 550) g
Approx metreage required: 600 (700, 800, 900, 1,000, 1,100) m

A firm, smooth wool (not a drapey or highly haloed yarn) gives the most authentic waistcoat fabric. Traditional colours: charcoal, navy, mid-grey, camel, or cream.

Always make a tension square and adjust needle size before you start. Metreage includes a swatch and the optional pockets; buy an extra skein if your tension is slightly looser than stated.

Needles

• 4.5 mm (UK 7 / US 7) straight or circular needles for stocking stitch
• 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) straight needles for rib
• 4 mm circular needle, 80 cm, for the front/neck band and armhole edgings
• 4 mm double-pointed needles, or a short circular, for armhole edging in the round (optional)

Use whichever needle type you prefer for flat knitting; a circular is required only for picking up.

Notions

• 6 buttons, 18 mm diameter (horn, leather, or corozo are traditional)
• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle
• Pins for blocking
• 2 spare 4.5 mm needles or holders for optional pocket openings

Tension (gauge)

20 sts and 28 rows = 10 cm over stocking stitch on 4.5 mm needles, after blocking.

Ribbing on 4 mm needles will measure closer to 24 sts and 32 rows = 10 cm; this is expected and gives a firm hem and band.

If you have too many stitches in 10 cm, switch to a larger needle; if too few, switch to a smaller needle. Row tension affects length: if your row count differs, work to the centimetre measurements rather than a row count.

Abbreviations (UK knitting)

Pattern notes

Construction. Back, left front, and right front are worked separately from the hem up. Shoulders are joined, then side seams. Armhole edgings are picked up and worked in the round. A single 1×1 rib band is picked up along the right front, around the V-neck and back neck, and down the left front. Buttonholes are worked in this band, on the left front as worn.

Button convention. This follows traditional menswear: buttons on the right front as worn, buttonholes on the left. For a women’s waistcoat, work the buttonholes on the right-front section of the band instead and sew buttons to the left.

Selvedges. The first and last stitch of every row are worked in pattern (not slipped). Use these stitches for mattress-stitch seaming (one-stitch seam allowance, already included in the counts).

Shaping. Armhole and V-neck decreases on the fronts happen at the same time on opposite edges. Read the whole front section before you begin shaping, and place a marker at each edge if it helps.

Pockets. Optional. If you omit them, ignore every pocket instruction and work even in st st to the armhole.

Matching length. Measure the back armhole and match both fronts to it, rather than relying only on row counts.

BACK

With 4 mm needles, CO 88 (98, 108, 118, 128, 138) sts.

Rib row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * to last 0 (2, 0, 2, 0, 2) sts, k0 (2, 0, 2, 0, 2).

Rib row 2 (WS): Work sts as they present (k the k sts, p the p sts).

These 2 rows form 2×2 rib. Cont until rib meas 6 cm from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Change to 4.5 mm needles.

Beg with a RS (knit) row, work in st st until back meas 35 (36, 37, 38, 39, 40) cm from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape armholes

Next row (RS): Cast off 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) sts, k to end.

Next row (WS): Cast off 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) sts, p to end.

78 (86, 94, 102, 110, 118) sts
(88 − 5 − 5 = 78; 98 − 6 − 6 = 86; 108 − 7 − 7 = 94; 118 − 8 − 8 = 102; 128 − 9 − 9 = 110; 138 − 10 − 10 = 118 ✓).

Dec row (RS): K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts dec)

Next row: Purl.

Rep the last 2 rows a further 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) times.
5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) dec rows in total.

68 (74, 80, 86, 92, 98) sts
(78 − 10 = 68; 86 − 12 = 74; 94 − 14 = 80; 102 − 16 = 86; 110 − 18 = 92; 118 − 20 = 98 ✓).

Cont even in st st until armhole meas 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24) cm, ending with a WS row.
(Measure vertically from the start of armhole shaping. Full armhole depth of 21 (22, 23, 24, 25, 26) cm is reached after the shoulder steps below.)

Shape shoulders and back neck

Cast off in three steps each side; the remaining centre sts are the back neck.

Row 1 (RS): Cast off 6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 9) sts, k to end.

Row 2 (WS): Cast off 6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 9) sts, p to end.
56 (60, 66, 70, 74, 80) sts ✓.

Row 3: Cast off 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) sts, k to end.

Row 4: Cast off 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) sts, p to end.
44 (46, 50, 54, 56, 60) sts ✓.

Row 5: Cast off 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 9) sts, k to end.

Row 6: Cast off 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 9) sts, p to end.

32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 42) sts remain. Cast off these sts as the back neck.

Shoulder each side: 6+6+6 = 18 (7+7+6 = 20; 7+8+7 = 22; 8+8+8 = 24; 9+9+8 = 26; 9+10+9 = 28) sts ✓.
Neck: 32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 42) sts ✓.
18 + 32 + 18 = 68 (20+34+20 = 74; 22+36+22 = 80; 24+38+24 = 86; 26+40+26 = 92; 28+42+28 = 98) ✓.

LEFT FRONT (as worn)

This is the left side as the garment is worn. The centre-front / neck edge is at the beginning of RS rows; the side / armhole edge is at the end of RS rows. Buttonholes are worked later, in the picked-up band, not in this piece.

With 4 mm needles, CO 40 (46, 50, 56, 60, 66) sts.

Rib row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * to last 0 (2, 2, 0, 0, 2) sts, k0 (2, 2, 0, 0, 2).

Rib row 2 (WS): Work sts as they present.

Cont in 2×2 rib until hem meas 6 cm, ending with a WS row.

Change to 4.5 mm needles. Beg with a RS knit row, work in st st.

Optional welt pocket

If omitting the pocket, skip this subsection and work even until the piece meas 35 (36, 37, 38, 39, 40) cm.

Work even in st st until the piece meas 12 cm from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Pocket opening row (RS): K12 (15, 16, 19, 20, 23), slip the next 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts onto a holder or waste yarn (pocket opening), turn, cable-cast-on 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts, turn, k rem 12 (15, 16, 19, 20, 23) sts.

40 (46, 50, 56, 60, 66) sts restored
(12+16+12 = 40; 15+16+15 = 46; 16+18+16 = 50; 19+18+19 = 56; 20+20+20 = 60; 23+20+23 = 66 ✓).

Cont even in st st on these sts.

Shape armhole and V-neck

Work until left front meas 35 (36, 37, 38, 39, 40) cm from CO edge, ending with a RS row (so the armhole cast-off sits at the beg of the next WS row).

Next row (WS): Cast off 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) sts (armhole edge), p to end.
35 (40, 43, 48, 51, 56) sts ✓.

Now work armhole decreases and V-neck decreases at the same time as follows.

Armhole decrease (at end of RS rows): K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Neck decrease (at beg of RS rows): K1, ssk, k to end.

When both fall on the same RS row: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

• Dec 1 st at the armhole edge of the next 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) RS rows.
• At the same time, dec 1 st at the neck edge of the next RS row, then every foll 4th row, until 12 (14, 14, 16, 16, 18) neck decreases have been worked in total.

After all shaping: 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28) sts
(35 − 5 arm − 12 neck = 18; 40 − 6 − 14 = 20; 43 − 7 − 14 = 22; 48 − 8 − 16 = 24; 51 − 9 − 16 = 26; 56 − 10 − 18 = 28 ✓).

Cont even in st st (if any rows remain) until the armhole meas 21 (22, 23, 24, 25, 26) cm, matching the Back, ending with a WS row.

Cast off rem 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28) sts.

(Neck decreases every 4th row take 45 (53, 53, 61, 61, 69) rows from the first neck dec. Armhole depth is 58 (62, 64, 67, 70, 73) rows at 28 rows/10 cm, so the V finishes inside the armhole on every size ✓.)

RIGHT FRONT (as worn)

This is the right side as the garment is worn. The side / armhole edge is at the beginning of RS rows; the centre-front / neck edge is at the end of RS rows. Buttons are sewn to the band on this side.

With 4 mm needles, CO 40 (46, 50, 56, 60, 66) sts.

Rib row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * to last 0 (2, 2, 0, 0, 2) sts, k0 (2, 2, 0, 0, 2).

Rib row 2 (WS): Work sts as they present.

Cont in 2×2 rib until hem meas 6 cm, ending with a WS row.

Change to 4.5 mm needles. Beg with a RS knit row, work in st st.

Optional welt pocket

If omitting the pocket, skip this subsection and work even until the piece meas 35 (36, 37, 38, 39, 40) cm.

Work even in st st until the piece meas 12 cm from the CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Pocket opening row (RS): K12 (15, 16, 19, 20, 23), slip the next 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts onto a holder, turn, cable-cast-on 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts, turn, k rem 12 (15, 16, 19, 20, 23) sts.

40 (46, 50, 56, 60, 66) sts restored ✓.

Cont even in st st on these sts.

Shape armhole and V-neck

Work until right front meas 35 (36, 37, 38, 39, 40) cm from CO edge, ending with a WS row (so the armhole cast-off sits at the beg of the next RS row).

Next row (RS): Cast off 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) sts (armhole edge), k to end.
35 (40, 43, 48, 51, 56) sts ✓.

Next row (WS): Purl.

Now work armhole decreases and V-neck decreases at the same time as follows.

Armhole decrease (at beg of RS rows): K1, ssk, k to end.

Neck decrease (at end of RS rows): K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

When both fall on the same RS row: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

• Dec 1 st at the armhole edge of the next 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) RS rows.
• At the same time, dec 1 st at the neck edge of the next RS row, then every foll 4th row, until 12 (14, 14, 16, 16, 18) neck decreases have been worked in total.

After all shaping: 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28) sts ✓ (same arithmetic as Left Front).

Cont even until the armhole meas 21 (22, 23, 24, 25, 26) cm, matching the Back, ending with a WS row.

Cast off rem 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28) sts.

FINISHING

Block

Weave in ends that will be trapped in seams; leave pocket ends until the linings are sewn.

Wet-block all three pieces to the finished measurements. Pin the side edges straight, the shoulders to 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) cm, and the V-neck to a clean, even slope. Allow to dry fully.

Optional pocket linings and welts

Lining (make 2). With RS facing, 4.5 mm needles, and the held pocket sts, work in st st for 8 cm, beginning with a WS purl row. Cast off. On the WS of the front, pin the lining down (cast-off edge toward the hem) and slip-stitch the sides and lower edge in place, taking care the stitches do not show on the RS.

Welt (make 2). With RS facing and 4 mm needles, pick up and knit 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts along the cast-on edge of the pocket opening (the sts you cable-cast-on). Work 4 rows of 1×1 rib (k1, p1). Cast off in rib. Tack each short end of the welt neatly to the front.

Shoulders

Join both shoulder seams with mattress stitch, matching the 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28) sts of each front shoulder to the corresponding back shoulder steps. The stepped cast-off eases in as a gentle slope.

Side seams

Join side seams with mattress stitch, matching the rib hems carefully so the 2×2 columns align. Seam from hem to the underarm cast-off. Do not close the armhole — edging is added next.

ARMHOLE EDGING

With RS facing, 4 mm circular needle or DPNs, and beg at the underarm seam, pick up and knit 96 (104, 112, 120, 128, 136) sts evenly around the armhole.

Guide: 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) sts along each underarm cast-off, 1 st in each decrease, and 3 sts for every 4 rows along the straight edges. Adjust by 1–2 sts if needed so the total is even.
(96, 104, 112, 120, 128, 136 are all even ✓.)

Join to work in the round. Pm for beg of rnd.

Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

Rep rnd 1 until edging meas 3 cm.

Cast off loosely in rib.

Rep for the second armhole.

BUTTON BAND AND NECKBAND

Worked as one continuous 1×1 rib band.

With RS facing, 4 mm circular needle (80 cm), and beg at the lower right-front corner (as worn):

Pick up and knit

• 72 (74, 76, 78, 80, 82) sts evenly along the right front edge to the start of V-neck shaping,
• 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts along the right neck slope to the shoulder seam,
• 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44) sts across the back neck,
• 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts along the left neck slope,
• 72 (74, 76, 78, 80, 82) sts down the left front edge to the lower left-front corner.

Total: 238 (248, 258, 268, 278, 288) sts
(72+30+34+30+72 = 238; 74+32+36+32+74 = 248; 76+34+38+34+76 = 258; 78+36+40+36+78 = 268; 80+38+42+38+80 = 278; 82+40+44+40+82 = 288 ✓).

Pm after the first 72 (74, 76, 78, 80, 82) sts (top of right V), after the back-neck sts, and before the last 72 (74, 76, 78, 80, 82) sts (start of left-front vertical — this last section holds the buttonholes).

Row 1 (WS): *P1, k1; rep from * to end.

Row 2 (RS): *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

These 2 rows form 1×1 rib. Work 4 rows even in rib, ending with a WS row (rows 1–4).

Buttonhole row

Row 5 (RS): Rib to the last marker (start of the left-front vertical section). Work 6 buttonholes evenly along the remaining 72 (74, 76, 78, 80, 82) sts as follows:

• The first buttonhole 4 sts from the lower (hem) edge.
• The last buttonhole 4 sts from the start of V-neck shaping (the marker you just reached, worked in reverse as you approach the hem).
• The remaining 4 buttonholes equally spaced between.

Each buttonhole: yo, k2tog.

On the foll WS row, work each yo in pattern (purl it if it sits in a purl column, knit it if it sits in a knit column).

A workable distribution for the left-front sts, reading from the V-neck marker toward the hem:

XS (72 sts): Rib 4, (yo, k2tog, rib 10) 5 times, yo, k2tog, rib 4.
(4 + 5×12 + 2 + 4 = 70; 4+60+2+4 = 70 — adjust the last gap by 2 sts: rib 4, (yo, k2tog, rib 10) 4 times, yo, k2tog, rib 11, yo, k2tog, rib 5 → 4+48+2+11+2+5 = 72 ✓.)

For all sizes, keep 4 sts of rib at each end of the left-front section and divide the remaining sts evenly into five gaps between the six (yo, k2tog) pairs. A 1-st difference between gaps will not show.

Cont in 1×1 rib until the band meas 3 cm from the pick-up row, ending with a RS row.

Cast off evenly in rib on the WS. Do not pull tight — a tight cast-off will draw the fronts up.

The short ends of the band sit flush with the hem. Tack them lightly to the side of the hem rib if they lift.

BUTTONS

Sew 6 buttons to the right-front band (as worn), opposite the buttonholes. Use the same spacing: first button 1.5 cm above the hem, last button level with the start of V-neck shaping, remaining four equally spaced.

Seat each button with a short shank (wrap the thread two or three times under the button) so the band sits flat when fastened.

SCHEMATIC MEASUREMENTS

All measurements are after blocking, with the garment buttoned.

                    shoulder 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) cm
                   |------|   back neck 16 (17, 18, 19, 20, 21) cm   |------|
              ______________________________________________________________
             /                                                              \
            /    armhole depth 21 (22, 23, 24, 25, 26) cm                    \
           /                                                                  \
          |                    BACK WIDTH                                     |
          |            44 (49, 54, 59, 64, 69) cm                             |
          |                                                                   |
          |         length to underarm                                        |
          |         35 (36, 37, 38, 39, 40) cm                                |
          |                                                                   |
          |_____________________     V-neck      _____________________________|
   hem    |                     \               /                             |
   6 cm   |                      \             /          each front body     |
          |                       \           /           20 (23, 25, 28,     |
          |________________________\_________/____________ 30, 33) cm ________|

                    total length 56 (58, 60, 62, 64, 66) cm
                    finished chest (buttoned) 87 (98, 107, 118, 127, 138) cm
                    band width 3 cm (overlap accounted for in chest)

Chest check (buttoned): back + two front bodies + one band
XS: 44 + 20 + 20 + 3 = 87 cm ✓
S: 49 + 23 + 23 + 3 = 98 cm ✓
M: 54 + 25 + 25 + 3 = 107 cm ✓
L: 59 + 28 + 28 + 3 = 118 cm ✓
XL: 64 + 30 + 30 + 3 = 127 cm ✓
2XL: 69 + 33 + 33 + 3 = 138 cm ✓

TO WEAR AND CARE

Steam or wet-block again after seaming if the bands have rolled. Wool-blend yarns may be washed on a wool cycle in a mesh bag; pure wool is happiest hand-washed and dried flat.

The waistcoat is intended to sit over a shirt, covering the trouser waistband, with the lowest button about 1–2 cm above the waist. If you prefer a longer line, add length in stocking stitch before the armhole — every 2.8 rows is 1 cm.

End of pattern.