The Ashworth Waistcoat

A vintage-inspired men’s waistcoat (vest) for a tall, slim frame. Hip length, close through the chest, with a six-button front and a mirrored rope cable running up each front. The back is plain stocking stitch, so the cables read clearly and the silhouette stays narrow. Worked flat in pieces and seamed.

Difficulty: Intermediate

Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL) Instructions are given for XS, with S, M, L, XL and 2XL in parentheses. Where only one figure is given, it applies to all sizes.

To fit chest: 86 (91, 97, 102, 109, 117) cm / 34 (36, 38, 40, 43, 46) in Designed for a height of about 183–193 cm (6 ft 0 in–6 ft 4 in). A length adjustment is given in the notes.

This is a skinny fit: about 5 cm (2 in) of ease over the chest, enough for a light shirt underneath and no more. If you are between sizes, choose by chest measurement and adjust length rather than sizing up.

Finished measurements

Cross-back is 66 (70, 76, 80, 84, 86) sts × 10 ÷ 18 = 36.5 (39, 42, 44.5, 46.5, 48) cm. ✓

Yarn

Aran-weight yarn, equivalent to US worsted (CYC 4), that knits to the tension below. A wool or wool-blend will hold the cables and the tailored shape; a firmly spun acrylic will also do.

Approximate amount: 700 (800, 900, 1000, 1100, 1200) metres / 765 (875, 985, 1095, 1205, 1310) yards.

In 100 g balls of about 200 m: 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7) balls. Buy an extra ball if you lengthen the body.

Heritage colours suit the style: charcoal, navy, olive, camel, or grey.

Needles

• 3.5 mm needles for rib (straight, or a short circular)
• 3.5 mm circular needle, 80–100 cm long, for the front and neck band
• 3.5 mm circular needle, 40 cm long, or double-pointed needles, for the armhole bands
• 4.5 mm needles for the main fabric (UK old size 7)
• Cable needle

3.5 mm is the rib needle throughout. It has no exact traditional UK number (it sits between old UK 10 / 3.25 mm and old UK 9 / 3.75 mm). The main fabric is worked on 4.5 mm so that aran-weight yarn meets the tension. Working the whole waistcoat on 3.5 mm would make a stiff fabric and a garment several sizes too small.

Notions

• 6 buttons, 15 mm
• Stitch markers
• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• Row counter
• Tapestry needle

Tension (gauge)

18 sts and 24 rows = 10 cm (4 in) over stocking stitch on 4.5 mm needles, after blocking.

The 12-stitch cable panel draws in slightly; that pull-in is allowed for in the ease. Do not add stitches to “correct” it.

Knit a swatch at least 15 cm square, wash it as you will wash the waistcoat, and block it before measuring. A close-fitting garment has no room for a wrong tension.

Abbreviations

• k — knit
• p — purl
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• RS / WS — right side / wrong side
• st st — stocking stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS)
• k2tog — knit 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased, right-leaning)
• ssk — slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, knit them together through the back loops (1 stitch decreased, left-leaning)
• p2tog — purl 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased)
• yo — yarn over
• C6B — slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold at back, k3, k3 from cable needle
• C6F — slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k3, k3 from cable needle
• pm / sm — place marker / slip marker
• rep — repeat
• rem — remaining
• cont — continue
• dec — decrease
• patt — pattern
• beg — beginning

Cable panel (12 sts)

Worked over 8 rows. On the Right Front the cable crosses to the back (C6B). On the Left Front it crosses to the front (C6F), so the two ropes mirror each other.

Row 1 (RS): P3, C6B (Right Front) or C6F (Left Front), P3. Row 2 (WS): K3, P6, K3. Row 3: P3, K6, P3. Row 4: K3, P6, K3. Row 5: P3, K6, P3. Row 6: K3, P6, K3. Row 7: P3, K6, P3. Row 8: K3, P6, K3.

Repeat Rows 1–8. Keep the 8-row count running from the first main-fabric row of that piece, even while you are shaping. The panel is never decreased into; every decrease falls in the stocking stitch to either side of the markers.

Chart (12-st panel)

Read RS rows from right to left, WS rows from left to right. On the Left Front, work C6F in place of C6B.

Row 8 (WS): K3, P6, K3
Row 7 (RS): P3, K6, P3
Row 6 (WS): K3, P6, K3
Row 5 (RS): P3, K6, P3
Row 4 (WS): K3, P6, K3
Row 3 (RS): P3, K6, P3
Row 2 (WS): K3, P6, K3
Row 1 (RS): P3, C6B, P3

Pattern notes

Menswear buttoning. As worn, the Right Front carries the buttons and the Left Front carries the buttonholes.

Row count. The first row of main fabric after the rib is Row 1, and it is a RS row. Count main-fabric rows from there. Armhole row counts include the armhole shaping rows.

Length. The body is long for a tall torso. To shorten by 4 cm, work 10 fewer rows of main fabric before the armhole, and begin the neck decreases 10 rows earlier. To lengthen by 4 cm, work 10 more rows and begin the neck decreases 10 rows later. Shaping counts do not change. Each 10 rows is 4.2 cm (10 × 10 ÷ 24 = 4.2 ✓).

Reading decreases. Neck and armhole shaping run at the same time for part of each front. They are on opposite ends of the row. When a neck-decrease row is also an armhole cast-off row, work both.

Back

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on 82 (86, 92, 98, 104, 110) sts.

Rib row: *K1, P1; rep from * to end. This row sets 1×1 rib on an even stitch count. Repeat it until the rib measures 6 cm, about 16 rows, ending with a WS row.

Change to 4.5 mm needles. Beginning with a RS knit row, work 96 (98, 100, 102, 104, 106) rows in stocking stitch, ending with a WS row. Piece measures about 46 (47, 48, 48.5, 49.5, 50) cm from the cast-on edge (6 cm rib + 96 (98, 100, 102, 104, 106) × 10 ÷ 24 cm ✓).

Armhole shaping

Cast off 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. 74 (78, 84, 88, 94, 98) sts. Cast off 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3) sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. 70 (74, 80, 84, 90, 92) sts. Decrease row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 2 sts decreased. Repeat the decrease row on the next 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2) RS rows. 66 (70, 76, 80, 84, 86) sts.

Stitches removed each side: 4+2+2 (4+2+2, 4+2+2, 5+2+2, 5+2+3, 6+3+3) = 8 (8, 8, 9, 10, 12). Back cast-on minus twice that is 66 (70, 76, 80, 84, 86) ✓.

Work straight in stocking stitch until 56 (58, 60, 62, 64, 68) rows have been worked from the start of the armhole shaping (this count includes the shaping rows), ending with a WS row. Armhole measures about 23.5 (24, 25, 26, 26.5, 28.5) cm.

Shoulder and back neck

Next row (RS): K 22 (22, 24, 26, 28, 28), join a second ball of yarn and cast off the centre 22 (26, 28, 28, 28, 30) sts, knit to end. 22 (22, 24, 26, 28, 28) sts each side.

Side just worked (next row is WS; armhole edge is at the beg):

• WS: Cast off 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9), purl to last 2 sts, p2tog. 14 (14, 15, 17, 18, 18) sts.
• RS: K2tog, knit to end. 13 (13, 14, 16, 17, 17) sts.
• WS: Cast off 7 (7, 7, 8, 9, 9), purl to end. 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 8) sts.
• RS: Knit.
• WS: Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 8) sts.

Cast-offs 7+7+6 (7+7+6, 8+7+7, 8+8+8, 9+9+8, 9+9+8) plus 2 neck decreases = 22 (22, 24, 26, 28, 28) ✓.

Other side: Rejoin yarn with WS facing at the neck edge.

• WS: P2tog, purl to end. 21 (21, 23, 25, 27, 27) sts.
• RS: Cast off 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9), knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. 13 (13, 14, 16, 17, 17) sts.
• WS: Purl.
• RS: Cast off 7 (7, 7, 8, 9, 9), knit to end. 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 8) sts.
• WS: Purl.
• RS: Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 8) sts.

Each shoulder is 20 (20, 22, 24, 26, 26) sts. Final back neck, including the 2 decreases each side, is 26 (30, 32, 32, 32, 34) sts.

Right Front

Wearer’s right. Buttons are sewn to this side later. With RS facing, the neck edge is at the beginning of the row and the side seam is at the end.

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on 44 (46, 49, 52, 55, 58) sts.

Even sizes (XS, S, L, 2XL), every row: *K1, P1; rep from * to end. Odd sizes (M, XL), RS: *K1, P1; rep from * to last st, K1. Odd sizes, WS: *P1, K1; rep from * to last st, P1.

Work until the rib measures 6 cm, ending with a WS row.

Change to 4.5 mm needles.

Set-up row (RS, cable Row 1): K 21 (23, 25, 25, 27, 29), pm, P3, C6B, P3, pm, knit to end. 11 (11, 12, 15, 16, 17) sts after the second marker. Neck-side stocking 21 (23, 25, 25, 27, 29) + panel 12 + side stocking 11 (11, 12, 15, 16, 17) = 44 (46, 49, 52, 55, 58) ✓.

Next row (WS, cable Row 2): Purl to marker, sm, K3, P6, K3, sm, purl to end.

Continue in pattern:

• RS rows that are not cable rows: knit to marker, sm, P3, K6, P3, sm, knit to end.
• Cable RS rows (Rows 1, 9, 17… of the main fabric): knit to marker, sm, P3, C6B, P3, sm, knit to end.
• WS rows: purl to marker, sm, K3, P6, K3, sm, purl to end.

Work 87 (83, 83, 87, 91, 91) further rows, so that 88 (84, 84, 88, 92, 92) main-fabric rows are complete, ending with a WS row.

Neck shaping

Decrease on the next row and every other RS row after that, 16 (18, 19, 19, 19, 20) times in all, while you also work the armhole shaping below.

Neck decrease row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to marker, sm, work the cable panel as set, sm, knit to end. 1 st decreased. WS rows: work as set, with no decrease.

The decreases eat only the stocking stitch before the first marker. The 12-stitch panel stays intact.

Armhole shaping (at the same time)

When 96 (98, 100, 102, 104, 106) main-fabric rows are complete — 8 rows after the neck shaping has begun on every size — shape the armhole at the side edge (end of RS rows, beginning of WS rows). Keep the cable count running, and keep working neck decreases every other RS row.

• WS: Cast off 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts, work in pattern to end.
• Next WS: Cast off 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3) sts, work in pattern to end.
• Armhole decrease row (RS): work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
• Repeat the armhole decrease on the next 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2) RS rows.

Armhole stitches removed: 8 (8, 8, 9, 10, 12). If a neck decrease also falls on one of these RS rows, work K1, ssk at the start and k2tog, k1 at the end of the same row.

Then work straight at the armhole edge, continuing neck decreases as set, until both of the following are true:

• 16 (18, 19, 19, 19, 20) neck decreases have been worked, and
• 56 (58, 60, 62, 64, 68) rows have been worked from the start of the armhole shaping, ending with a RS row.

You should have 20 (20, 22, 24, 26, 26) sts: cast-on 44 (46, 49, 52, 55, 58) − armhole 8 (8, 8, 9, 10, 12) − neck 16 (18, 19, 19, 19, 20) = 20 (20, 22, 24, 26, 26) ✓.

The neck decreases are planned to finish 1–5 rows before the shoulder. If you arrive at the shoulder row with extra stitches still to decrease, decrease them at the neck edge on the next RS row before casting off.

Shoulder

• WS: Cast off 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9), work in pattern to end.
• RS: Work in pattern.
• WS: Cast off 7 (7, 7, 8, 9, 9), work in pattern to end.
• RS: Work in pattern.
• WS: Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 8) sts.

7+7+6 (7+7+6, 8+7+7, 8+8+8, 9+9+8, 9+9+8) = 20 (20, 22, 24, 26, 26) ✓.

Left Front

Wearer’s left. Buttonholes are worked later in the band, not in this piece. With RS facing, the side seam is at the beginning of the row and the neck edge is at the end.

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on 44 (46, 49, 52, 55, 58) sts and work the rib exactly as for the Right Front, ending with a WS row.

Change to 4.5 mm needles.

Set-up row (RS, cable Row 1): K 11 (11, 12, 15, 16, 17), pm, P3, C6F, P3, pm, knit to end. Side stocking 11 (11, 12, 15, 16, 17) + panel 12 + neck-side stocking 21 (23, 25, 25, 27, 29) = 44 (46, 49, 52, 55, 58) ✓.

Next row (WS): Purl to marker, sm, K3, P6, K3, sm, purl to end.

Continue as set, crossing with C6F on cable RS rows. Work 87 (83, 83, 87, 91, 91) further rows, 88 (84, 84, 88, 92, 92) main-fabric rows in all, ending with a WS row.

Neck shaping

Neck decrease row (RS): Knit to marker, sm, work the cable panel as set, sm, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 1 st decreased. Work this decrease on the next row and every other RS row, 16 (18, 19, 19, 19, 20) times in all.

Armhole shaping (at the same time)

When 96 (98, 100, 102, 104, 106) main-fabric rows are complete, shape the armhole at the side edge (beginning of RS rows).

• RS: Cast off 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) sts, work in pattern to end, working the neck decrease at the end if this is a neck-decrease row.
• Next RS: Cast off 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3) sts, work in pattern to end, working the neck decrease at the end if required.
• Armhole decrease row (RS): K1, ssk, work in pattern to end, and work k2tog, k1 at the end as well when a neck decrease is due.
• Repeat the armhole decrease on the next 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2) RS rows.

Then work straight at the armhole edge, continuing neck decreases, until 16 (18, 19, 19, 19, 20) neck decreases are done and 56 (58, 60, 62, 64, 68) armhole rows are complete, ending with a WS row. 20 (20, 22, 24, 26, 26) sts remain, same check as the Right Front ✓.

Shoulder

• RS: Cast off 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9), work in pattern to end.
• WS: Work in pattern.
• RS: Cast off 7 (7, 7, 8, 9, 9), work in pattern to end.
• WS: Work in pattern.
• RS: Cast off the remaining 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 8) sts.

Front and neck band

Block the three pieces to the measurements before picking up. Sew both shoulder seams, matching the 20 (20, 22, 24, 26, 26) shoulder stitches of each front to the back. Leave the side seams open for now.

With RS facing and the 3.5 mm long circular needle, begin at the cast-on edge of the Left Front and pick up stitches as follows. Pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows along straight and V edges, and 1 stitch for each cast-off or decreased stitch across the back neck. Adjust by a stitch or two so you hit these counts:

• Left Front, hem to start of the V: 78 (75, 75, 78, 81, 81) sts
• Left Front V, up to the shoulder: 48 (54, 57, 57, 57, 62) sts
• Back neck: 34 (38, 40, 40, 40, 42) sts
• Right Front V, down to the end of the decreases: 48 (54, 57, 57, 57, 62) sts
• Right Front, end of the V to the hem: 78 (75, 75, 78, 81, 81) sts

Total: 286 (296, 304, 310, 316, 328) sts. 78+48+34+48+78 = 286; 75+54+38+54+75 = 296; 75+57+40+57+75 = 304; 78+57+40+57+78 = 310; 81+57+40+57+81 = 316; 81+62+42+62+81 = 328 ✓.

Row 1 (WS): *K1, P1; rep from * to end. Row 2 (RS): *K1, P1; rep from * to end. Row 3: Repeat Row 1.

Row 4 (RS), buttonholes: Work in rib, and cast off 3 sts at each of the six positions below. Positions are counted from the start of the row (the Left Front hem). After each cast-off, continue in rib to the next position.

Spacing is 13 sts between starts on XS–L and 14 sts on XL–2XL, all six sitting on the straight Left Front only ✓. A small break in the rib under each buttonhole is expected.

Row 5 (WS): Work in rib, and where 3 sts were cast off, cast on 3 sts using the cable cast-on. Work 2 further rows in rib. Row 8 (RS): Cast off in rib, not tightly.

The band measures about 3 cm wide. That 3 cm is the overlap already allowed for in the chest measurement (6 main-fabric stitches × 10 ÷ 18 = 3.3 cm ✓).

Armhole bands

Sew the side seams, matching the hem rib and the underarm cast-offs.

With RS facing and 3.5 mm short circular or double-pointed needles, pick up 84 (88, 90, 94, 96, 102) sts evenly around one armhole, about 3 sts for every 4 rows. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: *K1, P1; rep from * to end. Repeat this round 6 more times (7 rounds in all). Cast off in rib. The stitch count is even, so 1×1 rib joins cleanly (84, 88, 90, 94, 96 and 102 are all even ✓).

Work the second armhole the same way.

Making up

Sew the six buttons to the Right Front band, each one centred on the band and level with a buttonhole. The lowest button sits about 2 cm above the hem; the highest sits just below the start of the V.

Weave in ends. Block the finished waistcoat to the measurements, pinning the cables gently so they lie flat without being stretched open. The hem should be straight and the front bands should meet without gaping when buttoned.

Schematic (flat, before bands)

Back                          One front (before band)
┌────────────────────┐        ┌──────────────┐
│ neck 14.5–19 cm    │        │ \  V         │
│ shoulders          │        │  \           │
│                    │        │   cable      │
│                    │        │   ||||||     │
│   45.5–61 cm       │        │   ||||||     │
│                    │        │              │ 24.5–32 cm
│                    │        │              │
└────────────────────┘        └──────────────┘
 length 69.5–78.5 cm          length matches the back

Armhole bands add about 2.5 cm at each armhole and are not included in the chest. The front band adds the overlap only; it is not extra chest.

Care

Wash according to the ball band, dry flat, and re-block only if the rib or the cables have pulled in. Store folded rather than hung, so the shoulders keep their shape.