Brunei Darussalam Flag Raglan Pullover

An easy, seamless top-down raglan pullover with a crew neck, long sleeves, and the flag of Brunei Darussalam worked on the center front. The sweater is knit in yellow stockinette — the flag’s field — then the white and black diagonal bands and the red national emblem are added from the attached chart with duplicate stitch. No seaming. You can try it on as you go and adjust body and sleeve length.

Skill level: Easy (first seamless raglan). German short rows, M1 increases, and duplicate stitch are fully written out.

Construction: Top-down raglan, worked in the round. Neckline method: Full-circumference (Method 1). The complete neck is cast on and joined before the neckband. German short rows raise the back only. Do not cast on extra front-neck stitches after the short rows.

Neckline style: Crew neck with a ribbed neckband.

Fit: Standard, about 2–4" (5–10 cm) positive ease at the bust.

Sizes

Women’s / unisex S (M, L, XL, 2XL)

To fit bust: 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52)" / 86.5–91.5 (96.5–101.5, 106.5–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm

Instructions are written for S with M, L, XL, and 2XL in parentheses. When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes. Circle your size before you begin.

Finished Measurements

Measurements are after blocking.

• Bust circumference: 38½ (42½, 45½, 49½, 54½)" / 98 (108, 116, 126, 138.5) cm
• Length, back neck (top of neckband) to hem: 25 (26, 27, 28, 29½)" / 63.5 (66, 68.5, 71, 75) cm
• Yoke depth at raglan line (after neckband, to underarm): 9 (9¾, 10¼, 11, 11½)" / 23 (25, 26, 28, 29) cm
• Upper arm circumference: 15¼ (16½, 17½, 19¼, 20¾)" / 38.5 (42, 44.5, 49, 52.5) cm
• Sleeve length, underarm to cuff edge: 18 (18½, 19, 19, 19½)" / 45.5 (47, 48.5, 48.5, 49.5) cm
• Wrist circumference (ribbed cuff): 8 (8¾, 8¾, 9½, 10½)" / 20.5 (22, 22, 24, 26.5) cm
• Neck circumference, unstretched ribbing (approx.): 14½ (16, 16¾, 17¼, 18¾)" / 37 (40.5, 42.5, 44, 47.5) cm
• Body length, underarm to hem: 15 (15½, 16, 16½, 17)" / 38 (39.5, 40.5, 42, 43) cm

Ease at bust vs. the to-fit range is about 2½–4½" (6.5–11.5 cm).

Yarn

Worsted weight yarn (CYC 4). Wool or a wool blend is recommended so duplicate stitch sits neatly and the fabric holds its shape.

MC (yellow — flag field): 1050 (1200, 1350, 1500, 1700) yd / 960 (1100, 1235, 1370, 1555) m

CC1 (white — upper diagonal band): 60 yd / 55 m

CC2 (black — lower diagonal band): 60 yd / 55 m

CC3 (red — national emblem): 50 yd / 46 m

Sample put-up: 220 yd (201 m) per 100 g skein. You will need 5 (6, 7, 7, 8) skeins MC and 1 skein each of CC1, CC2, and CC3.

Choose a clear, bright yellow, true white, deep black, and a medium-bright red so the flag reads from a distance.

Needles

• US 8 / 5 mm — 32" (80 cm) circular for yoke and body; 16" (40 cm) circular or DPNs (or magic loop) for sleeves
• US 6 / 4 mm — 16" (40 cm) circular for neckband; 32" (80 cm) circular for hem; DPNs or magic loop for cuffs

Adjust needle size to obtain gauge. The ribbing needle should be two US sizes smaller than the gauge needle.

Notions

• 5 stitch markers (one unique for beginning of round, 4 for raglan lines)
• 2 spare circular needles, DPNs, or waste yarn (sleeve holders)
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Optional: locking markers to pin the attached chart onto the finished front

Gauge

20 stitches and 28 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch in the round on US 8 / 5 mm, blocked.

5 stitches = 1" (2.5 cm); 7 rounds = 1" (2.5 cm).

Work a circular swatch of at least 24 sts × 32 rnds. Measure the inner 20 sts and 28 rnds after blocking. If you have too many stitches per 4" (10 cm), go up a needle size; if too few, go down.

Ribbing is worked on smaller needles and will measure tighter than stockinette.

Abbreviations (US)

• BOR — beginning of round
• CC — contrasting color
• CO — cast on
• dec — decrease
• DPN(s) — double-pointed needle(s)
• k — knit
• k2tog — knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• MC — main color
• MDS — make double stitch (German short row; see Special Techniques)
• M1L — make 1 left (see Special Techniques)
• M1R — make 1 right (see Special Techniques)
• p — purl
• pm — place marker
• rep — repeat
• rnd(s) — round(s)
• RS — right side
• sl m — slip marker
• ssk — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease): slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, insert left needle into the fronts of both slipped stitches and knit them together
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• St st — stockinette stitch (knit every round in the round; knit on RS / purl on WS when working short rows)
• WS — wrong side

Special Techniques

M1R (right-leaning increase): From the back, lift the running strand between the stitch just worked and the next stitch onto the left needle. Knit this strand through the front loop.

M1L (left-leaning increase): From the front, lift the running strand between the stitch just worked and the next stitch onto the left needle. Knit this strand through the back loop.

MDS — German short-row double stitch: With working yarn in front, slip the next stitch purlwise. Pull the yarn up and over the right needle to the back so the slipped stitch shows two legs (a “double stitch”). If the next stitch is a purl, bring the yarn between the needles to the front again before purling. On the following pass, knit or purl both legs of the double stitch together as one stitch.

Duplicate stitch (Swiss darning): Thread a tapestry needle with CC. On the RS, bring the needle up at the base of the V of the stitch to be covered, follow the two arms of that V with the yarn, and return down through the same base. One duplicate stitch covers one knit stitch. Work with relaxed tension so the fabric does not pucker.

Long-tail cast-on: Use this for the neck so the edge stretches over the head. Leave a tail about 3 times the neck circumference.

Pattern Notes

• The pullover is worked entirely in MC (yellow) through the bind-off. Flag colors are added afterward from the attached chart.
• Work raglan increases as M1L before the marker and M1R after the marker (8 stitches every increase round).
• Do not twist when joining. The cast-on tail marks the BOR until you place a unique marker.
• Lengths are given in inches; round counts are provided where they keep the math exact. Try the sweater on at the underarm and before the hem and cuffs.
• 2×2 rib needs a multiple of 4 stitches. All neck, hem, and cuff counts are multiples of 4.
• When working the body, the front is the section between the two underarm markers that contains the original front stitches.

Attached Stitch Chart

Use the separate attached chart panel for the visual grid of the Brunei Darussalam flag. Do not draw your own grid and do not look for a chart inside these written instructions — there isn’t one.

Where the chart lives: The attached stitch chart is in the separate chart panel that accompanies this pattern (the chart asset beside or after the written pattern). Refer only to that panel for colors, row count, and stitch width.

What the chart shows: The flag of Brunei Darussalam — a yellow field, a white diagonal band above a black diagonal band running from the lower hoist (bottom left as you look at the front) to the upper fly (top right), and the red national emblem centered on top of the bands.

How to read the chart for this knit:

• Each chart square = one knit stitch = one duplicate stitch.
• The bottom row of the chart is the first (lowest) row on the sweater. Work from the bottom of the chart to the top.
• Every chart row is a RS row on stockinette. Read every row from right to left.
• There are no WS chart rows for duplicate stitch.
• Follow the chart legend for MC yellow, CC1 white, CC2 black, and CC3 red. If the legend uses symbols rather than color fills, match them once before you start and stay consistent.

Color and yarn management:

• Duplicate stitch is worked after the pullover is blocked.
• Use lengths of about 18" (45 cm) to limit tangling and wear. Do not carry unused colors across the back of the work.
• Weave tails on the WS along the backs of same-color stitches. Do not pull tight.
• White (CC1) sits above black (CC2). Work the two diagonal bands first, then the red emblem (CC3) so the crest lies on top.
• If a square sits on a raglan increase line or a slightly distorted stitch, cover that same visual stitch — do not skip it.

Stitch-count integration (centering math): Duplicate stitch does not add or remove stitches. The body remains 192 (212, 228, 248, 272) sts.

1. Count the stitches in one full row of the attached chart. That number is W (chart width).
2. After finishing, the front of the body (between the two underarm side markers, including half of each underarm cast-on) is 96 (106, 114, 124, 136) stitches.
3. Confirm W is less than or equal to the front stitch count. If W is larger than your front, use a smaller scale only if an alternate chart size is provided in the attached panel; do not stretch or skip chart stitches.
4. Stitches to leave blank on each side of the chart: (front sts − W) ÷ 2.
   • S: (96 − W) ÷ 2
   • M: (106 − W) ÷ 2
   • L: (114 − W) ÷ 2
   • XL: (124 − W) ÷ 2
   • 2XL: (136 − W) ÷ 2
5. If (front − W) is odd, place the extra blank stitch toward the left underarm (wearer’s left) so the emblem stays visually centered.
6. Vertical placement: Align the top row of the chart about 2 (2, 2½, 2½, 3)" / 5 (5, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5) cm below the front neckband, which puts the flag on the upper chest. The chart may sit on the lower front yoke and the upper body; that is correct. Pin the printed chart to the blocked front and check centering before stitching.

Instructions

Neckband (full-circumference crew)

With smaller needle (US 6 / 4 mm) and MC, using a long-tail cast-on, CO 88 (96, 100, 104, 112) sts. Place a unique marker for BOR and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist.

Ribbing rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Work 2×2 rib until the neckband measures 1" (2.5 cm) from the cast-on edge — about 8 rnds.

Yoke setup

Change to larger needle (US 8 / 5 mm).

Setup rnd (place raglan markers): K 32 (36, 38, 40, 44) (Back), pm, k 12 (Right Sleeve), pm, k 32 (36, 38, 40, 44) (Front), pm, k 12 (Left Sleeve).

The unique BOR marker is already in place before the Back. You now have 4 section markers plus BOR (BOR may double as the marker before Back).

Check: 32 + 12 + 32 + 12 = 88 ✓
36 + 12 + 36 + 12 = 96 ✓
38 + 12 + 38 + 12 = 100 ✓
40 + 12 + 40 + 12 = 104 ✓
44 + 12 + 44 + 12 = 112 ✓

Knit 1 rnd even, slipping all markers.

German short rows (raise the back only)

Worked flat in MC stockinette. Do not cast on extra front stitches at any point. The full neck is already on the needles.

Short Row 1 (RS): Knit across Back to the next marker, sl m, k 4 Right Sleeve sts, MDS, turn.

Short Row 2 (WS): Purl to BOR, sl m, purl across Back to the next marker, sl m, p 4 Left Sleeve sts, MDS, turn.

Short Row 3 (RS): Knit to the double stitch, knit both legs of the MDS as 1 st, k 3, MDS, turn.

Short Row 4 (WS): Purl to the double stitch, purl both legs of the MDS as 1 st, p 3, MDS, turn.

Short Rows 5–8: Rep Short Rows 3–4 two more times (4 turning pairs total). Each pair extends 3 sts beyond the previous double stitch and will reach the Front by the last pair — that is expected.

Resume rnd (RS): Knit to BOR, knitting each remaining MDS as 1 st. Then knit 1 full rnd, knitting any remaining MDS as 1 st. Stitch count is unchanged: 88 (96, 100, 104, 112) sts.

Raglan increases

Work in the round in MC stockinette.

Increase rnd: *Knit to 1 st before marker, M1L, k1, sl m, k1, M1R; rep from * 3 more times, knit to BOR.

This adds 2 sts at each of the 4 raglan lines (8 sts per increase rnd).

Even rnd: Knit all sts, slipping markers.

Rep the last 2 rnds 27 (29, 31, 35, 37) more times — 28 (30, 32, 36, 38) increase rnds total.

Stitch count check after all increase rnds:

• Increase sts: 28 (30, 32, 36, 38) × 8 = 224 (240, 256, 288, 304)
• Total: 88 + 224 = 312 ✓
  96 + 240 = 336 ✓
  100 + 256 = 356 ✓
  104 + 288 = 392 ✓
  112 + 304 = 416 ✓

Section counts:

Back: 32 + (28 × 2) = 88 ✓
M Back: 36 + (30 × 2) = 96 ✓
L Back: 38 + (32 × 2) = 102 ✓
XL Back: 40 + (36 × 2) = 112 ✓
2XL Back: 44 + (38 × 2) = 120 ✓

Sleeve: 12 + (28 × 2) = 68 ✓ (S); 12 + 60 = 72 ✓ (M); 12 + 64 = 76 ✓ (L); 12 + 72 = 84 ✓ (XL); 12 + 76 = 88 ✓ (2XL)

Work 8 (8, 8, 4, 4) even knit rnds with no increases.

Yoke from first increase rnd to underarm: 64 (68, 72, 76, 80) rnds = about 9 (9¾, 10¼, 11, 11½)" / 23 (25, 26, 28, 29) cm. Try on. The raglan lines should reach the underarm. Add or subtract even rnds if needed; do not add extra increase rnds or the sleeves will widen.

Divide body and sleeves

Divide rnd: Knit 88 (96, 102, 112, 120) Back sts; place the next 68 (72, 76, 84, 88) Right Sleeve sts onto waste yarn or a holder, removing sleeve markers; using a backward-loop (or cable) cast-on, CO 8 (10, 12, 12, 16) underarm sts, pm for the right side; knit 88 (96, 102, 112, 120) Front sts; place the next 68 (72, 76, 84, 88) Left Sleeve sts onto a holder; CO 8 (10, 12, 12, 16) underarm sts, pm for BOR / left side.

Body stitches: 88 + 8 + 88 + 8 = 192 ✓
96 + 10 + 96 + 10 = 212 ✓
102 + 12 + 102 + 12 = 228 ✓
112 + 12 + 112 + 12 = 248 ✓
120 + 16 + 120 + 16 = 272 ✓

Front (side marker to side marker): 96 (106, 114, 124, 136) sts.
192 ÷ 4 = 48 ✓, 212 ÷ 4 = 53 ✓, 228 ÷ 4 = 57 ✓, 248 ÷ 4 = 62 ✓, 272 ÷ 4 = 68 ✓ (ready for 2×2 hem).

Body

Work even in St st (knit every rnd) on 192 (212, 228, 248, 272) sts until the body measures 13 (13½, 14, 14½, 15)" / 33 (34.5, 35.5, 37, 38) cm from the underarm divide, or 2" (5 cm) less than the length you want.

Hem: Change to smaller needle (US 6 / 4 mm).

Ribbing rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Work 2×2 rib for 2" (5 cm) — about 14 rnds. Bind off loosely in rib.

Total body from underarm: 15 (15½, 16, 16½, 17)" / 38 (39.5, 40.5, 42, 43) cm.

Sleeves

Work both sleeves the same.

Return 68 (72, 76, 84, 88) held sleeve sts to larger needle (US 8 / 5 mm). With MC and RS facing, beginning at the center of the underarm cast-on, pick up and knit 8 (10, 12, 12, 16) sts along the underarm (1 st in each cast-on st). If a small hole remains at either corner, pick up 1 extra st in that gap and decrease it away on the next rnd (k2tog or ssk) so the sleeve starts on the target count.

Pm for BOR at the center of the underarm. Join to work in the round.

Sleeve stitches: 68 + 8 = 76 ✓
72 + 10 = 82 ✓
76 + 12 = 88 ✓
84 + 12 = 96 ✓
88 + 16 = 104 ✓

Knit 4 rnds even.

Decrease rnd: K1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before BOR, ssk, k1. (2 sts decreased)

Work a decrease rnd every 6th (6th, 5th, 5th, 4th) rnd 18 (19, 22, 24, 26) times.

Cuff stitch count:
76 − (18 × 2) = 40 ✓
82 − (19 × 2) = 44 ✓
88 − (22 × 2) = 44 ✓
96 − (24 × 2) = 48 ✓
104 − (26 × 2) = 52 ✓

40, 44, 44, 48, 52 are all multiples of 4 ✓

After the last decrease rnd, work even in St st until the sleeve measures 16 (16½, 17, 17, 17½)" / 40.5 (42, 43, 43, 44.5) cm from the underarm, or 2" (5 cm) less than the desired sleeve length.

Cuff: Change to smaller needle (US 6 / 4 mm).

Ribbing rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Work 2×2 rib for 2" (5 cm). Bind off loosely in rib.

Total sleeve from underarm: 18 (18½, 19, 19, 19½)" / 45.5 (47, 48.5, 48.5, 49.5) cm.

Finishing

Weave in all MC ends on the WS. Close any remaining underarm gaps with the tapestry needle.

Block: Soak in lukewarm water with a little wool wash for 15–20 minutes. Roll in a towel to remove excess water. Lay flat to the finished measurements, aligning the raglan lines. Let dry completely. Block before you add the flag so the stitch grid is even.

Apply the flag (duplicate stitch):

1. Lay the dry pullover flat, front up.
2. Using the Attached Stitch Chart section above, find the horizontal center of the front and the vertical start 2 (2, 2½, 2½, 3)" / 5 (5, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5) cm below the front neckband.
3. Pin or baste the chart position. Recheck that the white band reads above the black band, running up toward the wearer’s left shoulder (upper fly) from the lower right of the motif as you look at the sweater (lower hoist).
4. Duplicate stitch CC1 (white) and CC2 (black) bands, then CC3 (red) emblem, following the attached chart from bottom row to top, every row right to left.
5. Weave in CC ends on the WS. Steam the motif lightly from the WS if needed; do not press hard or flatten the ribbing.

Weave in any remaining ends.

Schematic (key numbers)

• Bust: 38½ (42½, 45½, 49½, 54½)" / 98 (108, 116, 126, 138.5) cm
• Length: 25 (26, 27, 28, 29½)" / 63.5 (66, 68.5, 71, 75) cm
• Yoke depth: 9 (9¾, 10¼, 11, 11½)" / 23 (25, 26, 28, 29) cm
• Body depth from underarm: 15 (15½, 16, 16½, 17)" / 38 (39.5, 40.5, 42, 43) cm
• Upper arm: 15¼ (16½, 17½, 19¼, 20¾)" / 38.5 (42, 44.5, 49, 52.5) cm
• Sleeve length: 18 (18½, 19, 19, 19½)" / 45.5 (47, 48.5, 48.5, 49.5) cm
• Neckband height: 1" / 2.5 cm
• Hem and cuff height: 2" / 5 cm each

Quick size recap